COMPLETED -- Converting the FX toy X-Wing

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PHArchivist

Master Member
Finished...! Nearly a year and a half! Here are some starter pics below
















































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As mentioned in another thread, I have taken the plunge into converting the Hasbro FX X-Wing toy into a studio scale display piece.

First to dispense with some formalities. Popular convention (supported by a former Icons employee, no less) is that this toy was fabricated off the Icons model. Hence, though not as large as a Maxi-Brute or a Captain Cardboard model, in these terms I view it as technically studio scale.

My major reason for doing this is my belief that just a paint job alone will really dress this puppy up. And I've said many times that in my approach to this hobby, I feel it is the paint job that is first and last noticed. As such, this conversion may -- by some standards -- seem to be the bare minimum. I'm certainly not going to super-detail it.

But I will re-do anything that screams "toy". Anything that is grossly wrong or engineered the way it is because it IS a toy. All levers will be removed, the over-sized R2 will be axed, the guns will be redone, the engine cans will be replaced. The intakes, however, will stay, and the fuselage will remain mostly unmodified.

What I hope to do with this thread is expand on the great pics shown by Ryan, and visually demonstrate to those in a similar position as myself what all is involved in taking this bird apart and putting her back together...

More later!

Here's a teaser!

 
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KnightAsylum

Sr Member
I am looking forward to seeing more. I had planned on doing this myself however I was going using the TRU exclusive Red leader x-wing because it seemed even closer to the SS then the FX version (I don't know if that is true, but it seemed like it to me.)
 

PHArchivist

Master Member
If anything, it'd be easier, as there is less dismantling.

For example, on the FX, R2 is articulated and lit, and all the related parts must be extricated... Not on the TRU exclusive, so I understand...
 

PHArchivist

Master Member
My pleasure.

First, a break down of the -- ahem -- break down...



This basically represents the component parts that can be taken apart as designed; either due to the basic assembly process intended for the toy itself, or by removing all the screws and cutting some wires.

The basic assembly/disassembly for the toy (what anyone has to do after opening the box) is comprised of the wings snapping into place with three clips each, (seen in the pic) and the guns (the main body and barrel are all one pice that snaps onto mounting points on the wing tip).

Obviously I've taken it a step farther by removing all the screws, allowing me to separate the fuselage halves, remove all the electronics, extricate the S-foil mechanism (wing "motor"/hinge), and also separating one main gun body. The separated gun tip was cut off by me.

The tubing will become my gun barrels. The cup is the excised junk (including poor R2).
 

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PHArchivist

Master Member
Here are some more pics. Same basic stage in the game, just closer shots...

By the way, to keep my word about step by step... First thing I did was remove the nose cone. There is a small Phillips screw that holds it in. It is basically a hard rubber slip cover with a large open slot (that must be filed if to be used) on the bottom to accommodate the nose gear... Oh and TELL me which nose cone looks the best. ;)





After this, I just could not stop unscrewing. It was addicitive. Not many hold the main body together. A couple of wires need to be cut to separate the halves, but no biggie... No glue or other adhesive holding it together.

I thought about keeping the electronics but ultimately just ripped them out. Getting the levers that extend into the cockpit (trageting computer) out was a pain -- had to cut it out with a razor saw. And R2 is a pretty well connected guy too.


The outside of the halves. I've dremeled out some of the R2 Strip/Socket area already. This is necessary to re-position the droid, and to get a cast of the R2 strip to lay flat.


And the inside...


The inside of the butt plate. That speaker doesn't want to budge. Oh well - if it stays, it offers a nice counter weight to the nose.


The gun parts... I'll keep the main bodies (have already started filling sme MAJOR holes) and the "flash supressor". The barrels and tips will be replaced with tubing. You can see how the original barrel fit into the main body. I'll get some way to make the brass tubing fit in there...




Main wing hinge assembly with some electronics removed. It still has spring tension. There is a large round button on the bottom activated by a lever that extends from the butt plate. The lever is now gone and I have to manually separate the wings. I will install a shim to keep them open. I thought about removing the spring, but instinct is telling me to keep it there... FYI - what is seen in the pic (the caddy between the wings there in the middle) must stay to attach to the fuselage innards.


Excised guts.


The famous Maxi-Brute. Not much to state here -- Bealleauwood has AWESOME comparison pics on the various fuselages and nose cones. Check his related posts.
 

PHArchivist

Master Member
By the way, this project generates a special and huge thanks to RPF member Jedeyeknight.

Thanks, amigo. :cheers
 

Hand Solo

Sr Member
The 'best' looking radome ( nose cone ) in your photograph...to my eye, is the top one.

I'd have to look again at references, but it looks 'right' to me. I could be 'wrong', though. :D
 

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PHArchivist

Master Member
<div class='quotetop'>(Hand Solo @ Aug 9 2006, 04:07 AM) [snapback]1296772[/snapback]</div>
The 'best' looking radome ( nose cone ) in your photograph...to my eye, is the top one.

I'd have to look again at references, but it looks 'right' to me. I could be 'wrong', though. :D
[/b]
Many would agree. That's the Captain Cardboard nose...
 

jedeyenight

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
<div class='quotetop'>(PHArchivist @ Aug 9 2006, 04:04 AM) [snapback]1296771[/snapback]</div>
By the way, this project generates a special and huge thanks to RPF member Jedeyeknight.

Thanks, amigo. :cheers
[/b]

More then welcom man. following this with great interest.
 

PHArchivist

Master Member
<div class='quotetop'>(Kuhn Global @ Aug 9 2006, 04:50 PM) [snapback]1297052[/snapback]</div>
I didn't know the toy had landing gear. Are you going to keep them intact?
[/b]

Negative... Well -- yes and no.

The nose gear is seen in the "cup-o-junk", upside down at about 2:00 (want it.? ;) ). It was easily extractable once the fuse was separated.

Not so with the rear gear.

They fold up into the lower intakes (much like the old model kits). The intakes (and main engines too) are all fused into one large molded piece as seen in the pic above. I'm not even sure if it IS possible to dissect that large piece or not, but without doing so it doesn't appear possible to pproperly remove the rear gear (though you could CUT them out). At first glance, however, there seems to be enough clearance to create a gear hatch/cover to hide them.
 

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PHArchivist

Master Member
No significant progress on the FX itself over the past couple of days... But I have been massaging the nose cone of my Maxi-Burte in prep of casting it.

A note on the wing caddy (the large part with all the engines and intakes molded in)... There IS a series of screws to further dismantle it, but these are harder to get to, and for my project I don't see any real purpose. And even so, the engines and intake would STILL be molded in...

Took a fun pic of most all of the X-Wing fuselages... Only missing were the Capt Cardboard and Icons (oh and the smallest of the ERTL but that's about the same as the FM)... So its Maxi-brute, FX, ERTL Electronic, ERTL mid-sized, and FM. Will have to post it later, but is fun to look at.
 

phase pistol

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Sa-WEET. :D

One thing I'm hoping you can take a look at doing, is widening the "stance" of the open wings.... this is something that bugs the HELL out of me on most replicas, with their shallow Xes. :angry

- k
 

Treadwell

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Funny, 'cause I found the ICONS to have a MUCH too wide X. ;)

The heroes had shallow X's, and the pyros had very wide ones.
 

Bryancd

Master Member
See, I always felt that the larger "X" was more accurate. If you look at some of the profile shots of X-wing running down the trnech, the "X"'s look ver wide. In most of the profile shots they look wide to me as well. Do you have any screen captures, Jay, that show the difference?
 

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