Cheap PKD (Water Gun)

I just received a pair of pistols (one black, one blue) from an eBay seller (Japan-recommend), they have one pair left at US$68.51 plus postage (which was really cheap to Australia).

I also bought from this seller. First set I bought paid about $50shipped and received the other day
then bought another set for about $55shipped, but still in transit.
was going to buy another set, but seller raised prices.

at $25-$30 a gun is a fair price since the orange grip alone is around $70 on ebay
 
Wanted to share my take on the front part, it's not a perfect replica, but I wanted to get rid of that blank area on the steyr receiver and at least bring it a bit closer to the quality of the rest of the watergun.

Plus, I actually put the orange tip to good use, so my advice is, don't throw yours away!

The grey bit is printed with my ultimaker. The small pin didn't come out very nice, but if any of you guys wanna print it I'd suggest using Shapeways or a similar service. For my needs this will suffice.
HMNGoRUP6vDs_0Pl2bQsfBGWbnpzRhrwMJ7qiQ7jDjg.jpgJan3ICy2-lp2VIPM62pC0nRP6bvDhGq2Wiu1Clthfk8.jpgWt_wU2FXiE7gxyk2Y1sr1zMbShugNELsofl87n0w-r0.jpg5USyHRvypB4d1bwa_EYIQBvp9UI6KF7wg9bJaJKS5tQ.jpgJQ_mvmJ2RgJ9kxhDJ_MFwiGMRJbybvQubOas3_O_c5w.jpg

The pics propably speak for themself, drilled out the front part, and saw into the orange with my mini-saw on my dremel... Was pretty surprised myself how well it actually fit!

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Here is the finished thing:

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Plus the STL file of the front bit (and a inner barell extension, should you not use the orange bit), for anyone with a printer:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1i0vj3vylcgenmu/front bits.stl?dl=1
 
Very nice work! I wish I'd thought of using the orange tip as you have to provide the top of the barrel where it fits under the receiver detail. That's the bit I struggled with hardest on my conversion, particularly getting the 'extension' to seamlessly integrate with the actual muzzle, particularly as I don't have a printer so had to cobble it together from bits and bobs. And I'd already used the orange tip, reversed, to form the basis of the receiver detail itself! But yours looks great... and lovely paint job too.
 
So the guy from Hong Kong I bought it from eBay was on "vacation" for 10 days and now he hasn't even shipped the package for a week. His reply was "shipping asap, plz be patient". I am guessing he ordered it from Japan for some low price and he still hasn't received the package so he can't send me what he doesn't have, a reseller, for $65.

Anyway I am following the wayouteast's posts to see if I can manage to do all that work he has done but in just a few days, so I can make it to the premiere with the gun. Otherwise I am canceling my cosplay gig.

I am glad tho you all got your Blasters and everyone is doing a superb job of repainting. I was thinking of finding some speaker and RasperyPi mini-PC to wire some sound effects... but I think the Blaster's heave echo gunfire can't be reproduced with a small ****ty speaker. So LED will have to suffice.

I will post my progress... when I get the damn Blaster.
 
Wanted to share my take on the front part, it's not a perfect replica, but I wanted to get rid of that blank area on the steyr receiver and at least bring it a bit closer to the quality of the rest of the watergun.

That turned out good. I am searching around for bits and pieces to fabricate that bit for mine. I love how it looks but that blank spot does bother me. I really need to just break down and buy a 3d printer. I have been looking at the ANET A6.
 
That turned out good. I am searching around for bits and pieces to fabricate that bit for mine. I love how it looks but that blank spot does bother me. I really need to just break down and buy a 3d printer. I have been looking at the ANET A6.

Thanks mate!

A printer really is a nice tool in the right hands, especially for prop making! I would recommend anyone the CR-10 over the ANET though...
If you don't want to get a printer yet, you could still order my STL file via Shapeways.
 
Had a some folks interested in seeing the pictures of the various stages.

Of course it came in the same packaging every one else received.
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At first glance it looked really good.
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Then I noticed the body was cracked. It wasn't bad and didn't have much separation though so I opted not to try gluing or filling it. I suspected after paint the crack wouldn't be noticeable. This is going to be a shelf display and not a cosplay piece so it should be fine.
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I first carefully masked the handle. I took great care to get this right. I wanted to make sure the handle remained clean of paint. I then used a Scotch-Brite pad to give the rest of the surfaces some bite for the paint to hang onto.
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Next was a about four really light coats of Rust-Oleum 2x-Ultra Cover in Metallic Bright Silver. This paint sticks really well to plastic so I didn't need to put on a primer first.
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I then masked off the the areas that I wanted to keep silver. I failed to take a picture of that masking job, but it was more of the same. Lots of little pieces of masking tape. I used a bamboo skewer to help get masking into those tight spots. I then sprayed about 4 coats of Krylon Dual Superbond in black gloss. The careful masking kept the lines pretty clean, not perfect but clean enough and I knew the weathering stages would hide any crimes.

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After I peeled off all of the masking tape I followed up a couple passes with slightly watered down acrylic which was wiped off immediately. I used a color called Black Tie because it isn't a straight black but looked more like grease. This filled in the low areas and took away some of the shine. Again I failed to get pictures of this step, sorry.

Last stage was to use the technique that CandyKiller used and buff in powdered graphite. I had a tube of graphite powder for locks sitting here so I used that. After buffing in the powder the results were amazing. In person this thing looks like real metal. It is funny when someone picks it up because it looks like it should weigh a couple pounds but actually weighs in at a couple ounces.

I still need to paint the red and green LED spots but other than that I am pretty much done. I want to add the nose piece where it is flat at the muzzle but I am still working that out.

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Looks good on my Sci-fi gun shelf. I need to make proper stands for this as well as my DL-44 and the Star Trek phaser.
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Thanks for looking. I look forward to seeing more of these builds that you folks make.
 
Quick question gang ,

Anyone know if someone's offering / or has already offered the piece that @avagoyamug #503 ( and others have mentioned ) for the reciever (?)
Either on Shapeways or home built ?

I'm sure I'm not the only one who'd be interested in purchasing one , if they were available .

Cheers Ged
 
Quick question gang ,

Anyone know if someone's offering / or has already offered the piece that @avagoyamug #503 ( and others have mentioned ) for the reciever (?)
Either on Shapeways or home built ?

I'm sure I'm not the only one who'd be interested in purchasing one , if they were available .

Cheers Ged

Well, I shure hope no one is offering mine, at least! ;)
I put up the model for free, you can always send it to Shapeways yourself and get it printed!

...I can also offer to print it on my Ultimaker for small money, if someone is desperate. Just hit me up!
 
@Lerch - did you put a clear coat of any kind over the graphite?

No I didn't. It is actually a very sturdy treatment. It doesn't rub off at all. After I was done I took a clean white cotton cloth and wiped it and none of the graphite came off. I was considering giving it a clear coat it normally either mutes the color or makes it too glossy. Besides it is going to be a shelf display not a cosplay prop, it won't be handled very much.
 
PM sent @avagoyamug :cheers

p.s. Has anyone done up the blue handle one yet ? If so , did you attempt to change the colour of the grips from blue to amber , and can it be done without too much expense ?
 
I'll be getting my blue in a few days. I'll be doing it as the all black Police version. Other than painting them amber or replacing them, there's not much you can do about the color.
 
Here's my finished gun using @Candykiller's build as inspiration. Aside of the paint job, it was filled with hydrocal for weight, added non functioning LEDs, and the screws were replaced on the handle. It's not as advanced as some of the awesome builds on this thread, but it does the trick for me. Blade Runner wasn't a huge influence growing up but I couldn't pass up a $20 PKD.

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