brutuswayne
Active Member
So after months of trying to convince myself I wasn't going to make the Civil War Cap suit (I just finished the AoU suit, I don't know if I can handle a big project like that again, it's not THAT good *is clearly lying to myself*) I decided to bite the bullet and dive into it. Each successive trailer made me love the design more and more, and the amount of high-quality screencaps and set photos just made it all the more tempting. I'm going to start patterning the suit in next weekend before I leave for Anime Boston, where I'll be wearing my AoU suit for the last time, which'll give me about 6 months to make it before NYCC 2016. This means I'll be able to go at a much more comfortable pace than when I had 3 months to do the AoU suit and had to sew for 4-5 hours each night after work. It also means I'm gonna get to experiment with a few ideas I had as I was making the AoU suit, but just didn't have the time to try it out if it turned out to not work. I also got a 3D printer for myself a few months back, so that'll make getting the buckles and greebles a bit easier! For now, I'll post up the reference photos I've collected (for anyone else who wants 'em), fabrics I'll be using/considering, and outline my plan for making the suit. Also if you haven't seen my AoU thread and are curious to check it out, it's over here.
Reference:












Materials:
Navy blue cordura - rockywoods.com
Port cordura - rockywoods.com
-Possibly burgundy cordura from ebay depending on color/quality
White ponte de roma and dark red ponte de roma - fabricsworldusa.com (the actual store is nearby to where I live)
-Possibly going to use a white cordura or the silver 400D pack cloth from rockywoods.com instead of ponte if I feel I can do the embossing and tailoring with it
-Dark Navy jumbo spandex - fabricsworldusa.com
Leather 6-7 and 7-8 oz. or 7-8 and 8-9 oz. - tandyleather.co
Brown fabric to mimic custom shaped webbing on the harness and belt
Dark brown web belt
Dark brown pleather (used for the bootcovers as buying real leather for the harness, belt, and gloves will already be pretty pricey)
Navy blue pleather (shoulder rings and chest-star detailing
Healiner foam - Joanns
Craft foam - Michael's
Build Outline:
Undershirt/Overjacket
-Duct tape wrap of torso to build mockup
-Separate mockups of undershirt w/ sleeve, overjacket, and collar/back flap
-Rough patterning of seams, darts, etc
-Second/Final patterning and mockup
-Fabrication of the real pieces in the same order
Pants
-Pants sloper base for mockup
-Rough patterning, general look
-Dissasemble mockup, trace designs onto new mockup with cleaner lines
-Test 2nd mockup fit and look, disassemble into pattern
-Sew pants, figure out attach to overjacket by snaps or velcro
Harness
-Use pattern from AoU harness, adjust for closer fit and better curvature
-Mockup using craft foam and buckle (will be 3D printed and then cast)
-Adjust for final shape and fit, make final using product using leather, brown fabric, and buckles/greebles (3D printed)
Belt
-Create pattern from scratch for belt and pouches
-Make test mockup using craft foam and hot glue to check fit and look
-Make final using same leather as harness, thinner leather and webbing for pouches, buckle and greebles (3D printed)
Gloves
-Order pair of leather fingerless gloves from Amazon to cannibalize into pattern
-make mockup using muslin and draw new seams and details, cut apart for final pattern
-Sew final glove using same leather as pouches or a lighter leather and matching red fabric from suit
Boot covers
-Pin around base boots and makeshift dummy leg using muslin to make 1st mockup
-Unpin, sew, and repin 1st mockup around boot to draw seams/detail, figure out size and placement of straps
-Unpin mockup, finalize details, cut apart to make final pattern
-Sew bootcovers and straps from dark blown pleather
Weathering
-2 weeks of researching how to weather the suit and my girlfriend putting up with my anxiety about ruining it
PS If anyone has any photos/screenshots that show the back of the pants and bootcovers in better detail, I'd certainly appreciate them (and I'm sure others would as well!)
Reference:












Materials:
Navy blue cordura - rockywoods.com
Port cordura - rockywoods.com
-Possibly burgundy cordura from ebay depending on color/quality
White ponte de roma and dark red ponte de roma - fabricsworldusa.com (the actual store is nearby to where I live)
-Possibly going to use a white cordura or the silver 400D pack cloth from rockywoods.com instead of ponte if I feel I can do the embossing and tailoring with it
-Dark Navy jumbo spandex - fabricsworldusa.com
Leather 6-7 and 7-8 oz. or 7-8 and 8-9 oz. - tandyleather.co
Brown fabric to mimic custom shaped webbing on the harness and belt
Dark brown web belt
Dark brown pleather (used for the bootcovers as buying real leather for the harness, belt, and gloves will already be pretty pricey)
Navy blue pleather (shoulder rings and chest-star detailing
Healiner foam - Joanns
Craft foam - Michael's
Build Outline:
Undershirt/Overjacket
-Duct tape wrap of torso to build mockup
-Separate mockups of undershirt w/ sleeve, overjacket, and collar/back flap
-Rough patterning of seams, darts, etc
-Second/Final patterning and mockup
-Fabrication of the real pieces in the same order
Pants
-Pants sloper base for mockup
-Rough patterning, general look
-Dissasemble mockup, trace designs onto new mockup with cleaner lines
-Test 2nd mockup fit and look, disassemble into pattern
-Sew pants, figure out attach to overjacket by snaps or velcro
Harness
-Use pattern from AoU harness, adjust for closer fit and better curvature
-Mockup using craft foam and buckle (will be 3D printed and then cast)
-Adjust for final shape and fit, make final using product using leather, brown fabric, and buckles/greebles (3D printed)
Belt
-Create pattern from scratch for belt and pouches
-Make test mockup using craft foam and hot glue to check fit and look
-Make final using same leather as harness, thinner leather and webbing for pouches, buckle and greebles (3D printed)
Gloves
-Order pair of leather fingerless gloves from Amazon to cannibalize into pattern
-make mockup using muslin and draw new seams and details, cut apart for final pattern
-Sew final glove using same leather as pouches or a lighter leather and matching red fabric from suit
Boot covers
-Pin around base boots and makeshift dummy leg using muslin to make 1st mockup
-Unpin, sew, and repin 1st mockup around boot to draw seams/detail, figure out size and placement of straps
-Unpin mockup, finalize details, cut apart to make final pattern
-Sew bootcovers and straps from dark blown pleather
Weathering
-2 weeks of researching how to weather the suit and my girlfriend putting up with my anxiety about ruining it
PS If anyone has any photos/screenshots that show the back of the pants and bootcovers in better detail, I'd certainly appreciate them (and I'm sure others would as well!)