Captain America (Here we go again!) - Age of Ultron WIP (Pic Heavy)

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SMP Designs

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hi all! I'm at it again...

It's time for another Captain America project! This time, I'm working on a version of the suit from the upcoming Avengers 2: Age of Ultron movie. After gathering as much reference material as I could from various sources, I began drafting the costume.

The last Captain America project I drafted, I used a quick-and-easy body mold technique to make a very form-fitted pattern. For this one, I'm taking a more traditional approach and using a basic pattern, called a sloper, to define the shape and then I'll create the specific pattern for the costume from that. I began by creating the basic body of the suit. This will form the chest and torso for the suit. Here are pictures of the assembled sloper on my form and one side marked up for the torso. The other side will be used to create the under shirt that will contain the sleeves and collar (more on the reasons for this design aspect later).

muslin-1.jpg
muslin-2.jpg


Next, I needed to draft the sleeves. Generally, to get an initial sleeve, I'll just draft a flat, one-piece sleeve based on the size of the armscye, like this:

one-piece-sleeve.jpg


This is fine and will serve the purpose, but sometimes you want more shape and movement. This is where a two-piece sleeve comes into play. Almost all tailored garment like suit jackets, topcoats, motorcycle jackets and higher-end casual jackets and sport coats have two-piece sleeves. These sleeves are designed with a slight bend in the elbow and ease on the outside of the back of the sleeve that allows the sleeve to hang perfectly with the natural hang of the arm and turn in toward the body.

While some people find these sleeves a bit daunting (especially if they have to draft one), there's a quite simple process for turning a one-piece sleeve into a two-piece. I didn't take any pictures until I'd slashed the sleeve apart, but I did try to diagram this picture to explain it (hopefully) clearly.

sleeve-alteration-1.jpg


Here's how it breaks down: Once the one-piece sleeve is sewn (the seam more often than not right at the underarm), the sleeve is cut into two pieces. The first cut is down the back at pretty much the exact back (line the seam up with the center of the piece and press - cut down that line). The second cut is on the front of the sleeve roughly 1/3 of the way from the seam to the center. The red lines above show these cut lines. The new under sleeve piece will be narrower than the new upper sleeve piece. Then, the two pieces are slashed at the elbow point (pre-mark this on your one-piece sleeve before cutting it apart) and spread about 1" - 1.5" at the back edge. Draw out the new pieces (don't forget seam allowance) and you've got a two-piece sleeve pattern!

sleeve-alteration-2.jpg


Once sewn together and added to the sloper, you should have a nice, smooth sleeve that hangs perfectly with the body. If the sleeve pulls at all, it's set too far forward or back. Take it out and rotate it in the armscye until it hangs correctly and mark that position for cutting the finished project.

sleeve-alteration-3.jpg


Here's the sleeve with the torso sloper trimmed and added on top.

muslin-4.jpg


For this project, I wanted the sleeve to have even more sculptural definition and form to the body a bit more. So I added in some darts and extra curves based on the client's measurements and now have a body-conscious sleeve shape to draft out the Cap sleeve.

muslin-5.jpg


Here's the sleeve fully mapped out.

muslin-6.jpg
muslin-7.jpg


With all the pieces mapped onto the muslin, it was time to cut it all apart, trace the pattern onto paper and then build the mock up from remnants of the same fabrics that will be used in the final piece. For the mock up, I just grab any remnants I have of the proper fabrics (in this case, cordura, jumbo spandex and lightweight faux leather) so that I can see how they will all work together in combination. Here are some pictures on the sleeve mock up.

mockup-1.jpg
mockup-2.jpg
mockup-3.jpg


The rest of the undershirt needs to be completed in mock up as well as the torso. I'll be covering those pieces next time and then it's off to the client for fitting.

Stay tuned!
 
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Peek73

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
SWEET! This is gonna be freakin AWESOME! Love your work subscribed!!
 

Fly4v

Sr Member
Great work on the mock-up. Almost Captain Ronald McDonald.

Thanks for the info on the sleeve but how do you keep the jacket torso from rising when raising your arm?
 

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SMP Designs

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Great work on the mock-up. Almost Captain Ronald McDonald.

Thanks for the info on the sleeve but how do you keep the jacket torso from rising when raising your arm?
Haha, thanks! When I posted the pic on Fb, I called it "Captain America and the Amazing Technicolor Sleeve" ;)

As for the sleeve question - the torso and undershirt will be separate pieces. The entire lower part of the under shirt (except the center back - that shows in the 'keyhole' of the torso) will be jumbo spandex. So, it will be able move independently, stretch and accommodate movement while the torso 'floats' on top of it. Naturally, in extreme movements, both pieces will rise up - that's unavoidable. I'll be able to see what the extent of that movement is and decide how best to address it once the client tries on the mock ups and I can see exactly how it will behave. That's why I always make mock ups out of the same fabrics - to minimize surprises.

Oh, and another thing about sleeves (a little more tailoring 101) - it may seem counter-intuitive, but the best fitting sleeves and the ones that cause the least upward pull are ones where the armscye rises as high as possible under the arm. Try this experiment: put on a casual button down shirt with broad sleeves and raise your arm. the whole side pulls up. Then, put on a fitted sweater or workout shirt (with narrow sleeves and high underarms) and raise your arm - notice the difference?

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This looks really promising! Can't wait to see how this turns out dude. Very cool :D
Thanks man! I'm still following yours and loving the look of it so far. Hope to see you in it at D*C15.

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SWEET! This is gonna be freakin AWESOME! Love your work subscribed!!
Thanks Peek! :)
 
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Fly4v

Sr Member
Thanks for the secret! That is what i did with my TFA suit.

And yes i have to better tailor my sleeves and get a mannequin.
 

SMP Designs

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thanks for the secret! That is what i did with my TFA suit.

And yes i have to better tailor my sleeves and get a mannequin.
If you're mostly doing things for yourself, I'd recommend making a form of yourself. You can go the duct tape route or you make make one out of plaster strips for a more rigid version. If you want to go an extra step, stretch-form and contact cement headliner foam to your plaster form and make it semi-pinnable. There are also a ton of fully and semi pinnable forms on Amazon for really reasonable prices (less than $100).

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I can't wait to see where this goes, your work is amazing!

Subscribed :D
Thanks! I'm still wondering where it will go myself. :)

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YES!!! YES!!! YES!!!

This is just the kick I need to move on with mine. The clock is ticking until the premiere. :D
Yeah, it's coming up soon. I'm working to get this one completed and delivered for the premiere.
 

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SMP Designs

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
ever think of selling a pattern book of this one? or any of the ones you did?
I did actually post the templates for the armor for the armored Cap that I'm working on in a PDF format. As for these sewing patterns, I could run Them off and offer them up, but they are like puzzles and I don't think I have the capacity to try to write guides for them.
 

bondoking

Sr Member
I did actually post the templates for the armor for the armored Cap that I'm working on in a PDF format. As for these sewing patterns, I could run Them off and offer them up, but they are like puzzles and I don't think I have the capacity to try to write guides for them.
The age of Ultron cap costume is on my list to do being my wifes willing to sew it up for me, if I get the fabric and lay it out.But it seems such a daunting task to someone who doesnt have a clue where to start. I understand patterns have to be scaled and so forth and would be a great start, I think it You should consider it, your doing such a great job on it so far. Guides are nice, sure but anyone witth a basic understanding of a pattern and the human body could limp through I bet
 
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SMP Designs

Sr Member
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The age of Ultron cap costume is on my list to do being my wifes willing to sew it up for me, if I get the fabric and lay it out.But it seems such a daunting task to someone who doesnt have a clue where to start. I understand patterns have to be scaled and so forth and would be a great start, I think it You should consider it, your doing such a great job on it so far. Guides are nice, sure but anyone witth a basic understanding of a pattern and the human body could limp through I bet
Hm. Once I get through this drafting, maybe I'll try to do a user-friendly version and sort out a way to make it printable.
 

andveryginger

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I loved the previous round, so of course I'm going to follow this one. =D

DH and I are working on AoU Widow and Hawkeye, so this will be inspiring and motivating!

Thank you, too, for the hint about the sleeve. Two part sleeves have always made me nervous (despite successes with them), and drafting them seemed very daunting. Socking this little tidbit away for the next time I need to make/modify one!
 

SMP Designs

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I loved the previous round, so of course I'm going to follow this one. =D

DH and I are working on AoU Widow and Hawkeye, so this will be inspiring and motivating!

Thank you, too, for the hint about the sleeve. Two part sleeves have always made me nervous (despite successes with them), and drafting them seemed very daunting. Socking this little tidbit away for the next time I need to make/modify one!
Thanks man! Ooooo - want to see the Hawkeye and Widow! If you have a thread going, link it in here so we can follow. ;)

Glad that helps on the sleeve front - they can be a little tricky but shouldn't be scary.
 

kcail1

Active Member
Wow! Love the detail of explaining the sewing. You make it look so easy! Plus the colors of scraps make Cap look a bit more... colorful! Fun! Great work.
Kcail
 

andveryginger

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thanks man! Ooooo - want to see the Hawkeye and Widow! If you have a thread going, link it in here so we can follow. ;)

Glad that helps on the sleeve front - they can be a little tricky but shouldn't be scary.
Not quite scary as much as intimidating. I still consider myself an beginning-intermediate seamstress, largely because I'm self-taught, based on whatever I'm working on at the time. I can *do* anything I want, just a bit of a learning curve, sometimes. =D

Widow and Hawkeye aren't much as yet -- I'm messing with some basic pattern alterations and trying to lose some of my winter fluff before I start on Widow. I started on the muslin/test run on Clint's base layer today, though, so I'll be updating his thread tomorrow or Wednesday.

Hawkeye

Black Widow

Can't wait to see more of Cap!
 

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