Interest Cap shield replica

A year ago, I commissioned GeneralFROSTY to re-paint my EFX shield for TWS Highway Battle paint job.
Pictures don't really do justice, the paint looks super realistic in person and looks exactly like on screen.

I think 24" size is just right, and any bigger would feel little too big.

Also, 24" shield was used in TWS, Avengers 2, Civil War, Infinity War and Endgame
VS.
25"+ being used in only one film exclusively.


IMG_1683.JPG
 
Can someone summarize some of the high level detail changes from TFA to TWS beyond the paint scheme? I know there have been a variety of sizes. If we're going with TFA, does that mean going with 26"? Because that seems a bit large.

The paint scheme. They moved away from the transparent metal cast paints (cause they used cast shields after TFA) and had opaque paint schemes.

They went with smaller shields - from 25 to 24’’
There was also bracket design changes movie to movie.

With civil war they started moving back towards the TFA design and paint.

25’ I think is the right size.
 
I wanted something approximating the Masterworks shield without the scratch marks. So that's where my vote lies. Should the consensus be with the TFA shield, I will still get one. I think that this will be the definitive shield as GeneralFrosty stated when he started this thread. I can't pass this opportunity up.
 
The theme of the Relicmaker shield looks very good, i'm interested as long as it is a replica as accurate as the original, so i hope the experts who are in the forum will help you with your comments...

A greetings...
 
Thank you for offering another run, RelicMaker ! Seems like no company wants anything to do making a movie accurate shield lol.

Just to be clear, the Star would be a separate piece that is placed in a grooved out space in the center like the original prop?

That would make it way too complex for them to carve out an empty area and then make stars to sit perfectly into the shield. That would make them NOT want to take this project on! I think CNC carving the star into the shield would look great and with cleaner lines. I'm worried if we were to carve out a section for a separate star, the stars would have to be 100% perfect for them to sit perfectly flush into the recessed area...
The Stars that I had spun and cut out for my shields looked great, but they weren't all 100% perfect to be able to sit flush into a recessed area with no spaces or gaps anywhere...

BTW: I may have a company that might take this on... They're discussing the designs with their engineers and will get back to me soon.
 
That would make it way too complex for them to carve out an empty area and then make stars to sit perfectly into the shield. That would make them NOT want to take this project on! I think CNC carving the star into the shield would look great and with cleaner lines. I'm worried if we were to carve out a section for a separate star, the stars would have to be 100% perfect for them to sit perfectly flush into the recessed area...
The Stars that I had spun and cut out for my shields looked great, but they weren't all 100% perfect to be able to sit flush into a recessed area with no spaces or gaps anywhere...
I'm delighted to see you join the conversation! Having you considering to be on board with this is a tremendous thing considering your portfolio of work.
The good thing is, the goal is to replicate a physical prop that's already been done like the Masterworks, so we KNOW it's possible (unlike a CGI prop).
And of course, this would have the merit of having never been fully achieved before (because I don't count the masterworks version thanks to the claw marks)
 
I'm delighted to see you join the conversation! Having you considering to be on board with this is a tremendous thing considering your portfolio of work.
The good thing is, the goal is to replicate a physical prop that's already been done like the Masterworks, so we KNOW it's possible (unlike a CGI prop).
And of course, this would have the merit of having never been fully achieved before (because I don't count the masterworks version thanks to the claw marks)

If you guys are cool with a shield like this, but with the star CNC'd into the shield, then it's definitely doable!
This shield is SOLID METAL all the way through, and 25" wide by 3" high!!!
It is a 1/4" Aluminum Shield, with an 1/8" Bracket attached to the back, making it 3/8" at the edge.
"House of Color" Tinted Clear Coat paint in Candy Apple Red and Cobalt Blue, showing the brushed Aluminum through the paint.
Leather Handles are made from high-quality "Tandy Leather" Kodiak Oil-Tanned Leather, and stitched together by a professional Saddle & Boot maker here in Fort Worth, Texas.
The handles are also padded at the grip, like they should be! ;)(y)
 

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If you guys are cool with a shield like this, but with the star CNC'd into the shield, then it's definitely doable!
This shield is SOLID METAL all the way through, and 25" wide by 3" high!!!
It is a 1/4" Aluminum Shield, with an 1/8" Bracket attached to the back, making it 3/8" at the edge.
"House of Color" Tinted Clear Coat paint in Candy Apple Red and Cobalt Blue, showing the brushed Aluminum through the paint.
Leather Handles are made from high-quality "Tandy Leather" Kodiak Oil-Tanned Leather, and stitched together by a professional Saddle & Boot maker here in Fort Worth, Texas.
The handles are also padded at the grip, like they should be! ;)(y)
I'm down 100%! I'd be interested in a blank shield so I can paint my own.
 
If you guys are cool with a shield like this, but with the star CNC'd into the shield, then it's definitely doable!
This shield is SOLID METAL all the way through, and 25" wide by 3" high!!!
It is a 1/4" Aluminum Shield, with an 1/8" Bracket attached to the back, making it 3/8" at the edge.
"House of Color" Tinted Clear Coat paint in Candy Apple Red and Cobalt Blue, showing the brushed Aluminum through the paint.
Leather Handles are made from high-quality "Tandy Leather" Kodiak Oil-Tanned Leather, and stitched together by a professional Saddle & Boot maker here in Fort Worth, Texas.
The handles are also padded at the grip, like they should be! ;)(y)

I’m in.
 
If you guys are cool with a shield like this, but with the star CNC'd into the shield, then it's definitely doable!
This shield is SOLID METAL all the way through, and 25" wide by 3" high!!!
It is a 1/4" Aluminum Shield, with an 1/8" Bracket attached to the back, making it 3/8" at the edge.
"House of Color" Tinted Clear Coat paint in Candy Apple Red and Cobalt Blue, showing the brushed Aluminum through the paint.
Leather Handles are made from high-quality "Tandy Leather" Kodiak Oil-Tanned Leather, and stitched together by a professional Saddle & Boot maker here in Fort Worth, Texas.
The handles are also padded at the grip, like they should be! ;)(y)

I think the Centre circle is maybe half an inch too big
29387DCF-A24B-4889-99FA-EB98F918E8A5.jpg
 
I think the Centre circle is maybe half an inch too big

My shield isn't perfectly centered in the photo. So, it will be hard to get exact measurements from it...

When I measured the original prop before in Photoshop, the center circle came out to be about 9.5" for a 25" shield.

I'll definitely get with all of you and come to a consensus of what the exact measurements are before when and if they go into production.
 
My shield isn't perfectly centered in the photo. So, it will be hard to get exact measurements from it...

When I measured the original prop before in Photoshop, the center circle came out to be about 9.5" for a 25" shield.

I'll definitely get with all of you and come to a consensus of what the exact measurements are before when and if they go into production.

Adjustments.jpg


To my eye you can see it pretty clearly - these angels are similar- the star circle is smaller proportionally on the prop than your last shield
 
That would make it way too complex for them to carve out an empty area and then make stars to sit perfectly into the shield. That would make them NOT want to take this project on! I think CNC carving the star into the shield would look great and with cleaner lines. I'm worried if we were to carve out a section for a separate star, the stars would have to be 100% perfect for them to sit perfectly flush into the recessed area...
The Stars that I had spun and cut out for my shields looked great, but they weren't all 100% perfect to be able to sit flush into a recessed area with no spaces or gaps anywhere...

BTW: I may have a company that might take this on... They're discussing the designs with their engineers and will get back to me soon.
EXACTLY what I was wondering! I said "grooved out" when I should've said recessed area but you still understood me :). Thank you for answering so succinctly. With that being said...

1033535
 
This is exciting. I’m still in awe of the talented people in this forum. I am interested.
 
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