BZP-IRONMAN Build

I can't begin to look at that pile of foam, knowing the hard work it's going to take to make it disappear lol

Hehe… tell me about it! It's a bit of a departure from my day job though, nice way for me to "unhook" and recharge.

BEAUTIFUL work man!!! Top notch:thumbsup

Thanks man! Really appreciated. More update pix on the way later tonite most likely. Might be starting a War Machine soon as well. You working on anything lately?
 
So, new suits in progress. Working on a smaller version for my son who is very excited to be Ironman for Halloween this year. Pix to come.
 
I've been getting some PM's regarding my templates and techniques. I answered them but figured I'd post here in case others have the same questions and just didn't ask:

Templates: The biggest interest seems to be the chest plate.

I started off with the same templates as everyone but figured how to combine them to eliminate seams and strengthen the piece after built. Look back recently on this thread and you'll see my chest plate built from a single piece of foam before adding in the other details. Just cut the paper templates out and tape them together to get your final template for foam. The real key building from a single piece of foam is making sure you make all of your cuts at the proper angles so when you glue them together, they make the final three dimensional shape you're looking for.

Glueing:

I used to use hot glue for everything, but discovered contact cement and never looked back. I use Weldwood by DAP and it's amazing. Best thing about it is that once the pieces are joined, the seams almost disappear. I'll then reinforce the seam on the backside with a bead of hot-glue. Look back through the thread at my MK4 Patriot suit. That suit has seen almost a dozen outings at this point and not a single seam has failed.

Heat Gun

It's been said to use the heat gun to shape your pieces before glueing and that is true. Myself, I don't use the heat gun to shape the foam at all. Since we're working with foam, you can bend, twist and basically force it into any shape you want and then once it's glued in place fine-tune that shape by force as well until you get it where you want.

I use the anti-fatigue mat squares from Best Step for the bulk of the body of the suit. They are 2 x 2 feet squares that ship flat.

One thing I do use the heat gun for is to seal the foam surface when I first open the package before I do any cutting. That way, when it comes time to paint the suit (using Docholiday's process), I'm already one step into the process. Plus if you use hot-glue to join your pieces, when you try to hit it with the heat gun after it's built, you run the risk of the pieces coming unglued due to the heat.

Tracing the templates

As for cutting the templates, I use a ball-point pen to trace my patterns to the foam before cutting them out. One thing I'll say here is that the better you get at cutting the foam at the proper angle for glueing the tighter and cleaner your seams will be.

Arc Reactor

This is a custom item that I've developed over time and have gotten it down to 3 major molded pieces that once painted, lit with LEDs and glued together looks pretty convincing. Get's lots of compliments too. If there's enough interest in it, I might offer it in the junkyard. Let me know.

So, hopefully that answers as many questions as it will probably create. lol.

In any event, stay tuned as there are lots more to come on new upcoming builds including one for my 12 year old son in progress!
 
Ok, we're off to the races.

Here are some pix of my son's armor taking shape. A quick reference shot next to my Patriot arm for reference in size. Lol, a bit smaller, eh? Also, couldn't resist throwing in a pic of my two suits. Going up on Ebay shortly to make room for the new ones!

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WOW! Amazing work!!

Can't wait to finish the suit to see people like you build it!!

Thanks for pointing me here!
 
WOW! Amazing work!!

Can't wait to finish the suit to see people like you build it!!

Thanks for pointing me here!

Thanks for the remarks! It's people like you creating the templates for us that are the rockstars! Heck, we just cut 'em out and glue 'em together. Seriously can't wait to get that Heartbreaker together.
 
Paint test on the mini-helmet. Humidity sucks in Chicago! Going to redo the helm since it's a bit small anyway.

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Ok, updates from the weekend:

By the way, that chest plate center was made with one piece of foam and some strategic cuts. :)


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That is a very nice Chest piece. I just dismantled my chest piece and found where I can remake it with less effort. One section which consist of 10 different parts can actually be made with one large piece and some "strategic cuts" as you mentioned. Nice work!
 
So, the MK 4 Patriot had a starring role in a video promoting a client's business. We'll post a link to it when it's complete. In the meantime, here are some stills from the shoot.

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Wow....that is one mean looking suit....bravo and congratulations on the shoot. You've done a good job and have provided some very useful advice for those who are still beginning or mid-way through.
 
Ok, I posted this on Doc's thread, but figured I should put it here too:

I've hit upon a combination of techniques that render a non-cracking finish and it's almost criminal in it's simplicity. Mind you, most of this is originally Doc's method.

I still found I got some cracking on the thicker foams when painting my suits, even with Doc's technique.

Then I had a conversation with a client of mine that owns a body shop. I told him about the suits and our painting woes. After I described the process, he advised me to eliminate one of the products and then use a scuffing pad.

I tried it. You wouldn't believe the difference it makes. I have a piece of 12mm foam that I painted yesterday and have spent the past day bending it, TRYING to get it to crack and it won't. Here is the method:

First off, don't use Mod Podge. It cracks to start with setting you up for failure later. Instead use good ole' Elmers Glue (white PVA). Four coats should do it. Stays very flexible when dry.

Second, use a scuff pad or very fine grit sandpaper, just scuff the surface of the glue to provide a "tooth" for the primer to grab onto.

Third, use the SEM flexible primer Doc suggested earlier in his thread. Two light coats should be plenty. Scuff this surface also with your scuff pad or sandpaper.

Fourth, apply your paint of choice. I use Duplicolor for the metal flake in the paint. Again, two or three very light coats should do it. DO NOT SCUFF THIS LAYER.

Finally, apply 2 medium coats of SEM flexible clear or "color coat" as it's called on the can.

Be sure to allow 24 hours for the primer to dry thoroughly before applying the paint. Follow the paint up immediately once it's dry to the touch with your clear. After everything completely dries (24 to 48 hours), you should have an extremely flexible surface that looks great and wears just as great with no cracking!

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Wow....that is one mean looking suit....bravo and congratulations on the shoot. You've done a good job and have provided some very useful advice for those who are still beginning or mid-way through.

Thank you a ton! Always nice to hear the appreciation! I've got two suits up on Ebay, and just wrapping up my new MK IV for Halloween. Best suit I've ever made. Pics will be coming up shortly.

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That is a very nice Chest piece. I just dismantled my chest piece and found where I can remake it with less effort. One section which consist of 10 different parts can actually be made with one large piece and some "strategic cuts" as you mentioned. Nice work!

I keep looking for ways to make the suit simpler to build and with fewer seams. Might have to put out my own modification for templates that people can use to create a better suit.

Stay tuned for my foam helmet with removable faceplate on my new suit! Oh yeah!
 
some really excellent work here bro nicely done:thumbsup

Thanks! And now for some pics of my most recent "contest-winning" suit. Worked a shot of my wife as Black Widow in there as well!

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Not sure why I got a double-post on one of the images, but, eh…

Now, here is my son's suit. He's 12 and stoked about being IM for Halloween.

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For size reference, here is his arms with one of mine:

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By the way, this suit was speed-painted (a little behind on time). I went with 6 coats of Mod Podge, 2 light coats of SEM primer, 2 light coats of paint, and 2 light coats of SEM clear. Other than some blushing in the paint due to high humidity (again, no time to wait) the finish came out quite well all things considered. And no cracking!
 
HEY EVERYONE!

Been a while since I've been back here… I know. So, the latest is I was selected to participate in the C2E2 Crown Championships competition just this past Saturday. I wound up taking 3rd place in my category. Beat out a couple of other Ironman costumes, but all had a good time anyway. Got a nifty medal to show for it was featured on the news that evening and some cool photos which are posted below. Now we're on to the new builds… 2 Mark IV's and a War Machine baby!!

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I have some questions about the painting method. What is the "SEM flexible primer Doc suggested and SEM flexible clear or "color coat" ? Also do you need adhesion promoter for this method?
 
Never mind, I figured it out. I do have one more question, though. Did you use the method for painting from page 7 of this thread for the Mark 4 suit above?
 
Never mind, I figured it out. I do have one more question, though. Did you use the method for painting from page 7 of this thread for the Mark 4 suit above?

Sorry I didn't see this sooner. Work has been busy and I've been working overtime on my latest project which I'll posting photos of here in a few minutes.

Yes, I use SEM primer and the SEM colorcoat as well and this is the method I used to paint the most recent suit you see here.

Now, on to the updates on the new project! ;)


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