Building The Death Star - PRODUCTION
- Thread starter PHArchivist
- Start date
I agree.
It doesn't matter if I am doing home improvements or building a model or a prop, I know where every little mistake is and even though most of the time I am the only one that can pick up on it, my eyes go directly to it and it bothers me.
PHArchivist
Master Member
So true!
Also true! Brad you seem to know me well!One advantage is that I have time to think about it. Really, I could even start painting the final finish and still go back and re-do the dish.
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PHArchivist
Master Member
INPUT/FEEDBACK NEEDED #2
As I'm drawing near the painting/finishing process, I'm torn on the color choice. In all the photos of the real model, both these days at the museum, and way back when in the studio/stage shots, the base color appears to be a blue-grey.
But in various publications - like The Art of Star Wars and Sculpting A Galaxy - there are shots that make the base color appear more Gull Grey (a grey that has sublte beige tones, as opposed to the blue tones of the actual model).
Frankly, I like the appearance of the shots in the books; the more Gull Grey.
So...
Accuracy over preference? Preference over accuracy?
As I'm drawing near the painting/finishing process, I'm torn on the color choice. In all the photos of the real model, both these days at the museum, and way back when in the studio/stage shots, the base color appears to be a blue-grey.
But in various publications - like The Art of Star Wars and Sculpting A Galaxy - there are shots that make the base color appear more Gull Grey (a grey that has sublte beige tones, as opposed to the blue tones of the actual model).
Frankly, I like the appearance of the shots in the books; the more Gull Grey.
So...
Accuracy over preference? Preference over accuracy?
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feek61
Sr Member
LEAVE IT MAN (the dish)!!! Seriously if anyone notices . . . kill them, they have too much nerd in them :lol I am a fan of Gull Grey; it is a good color in person. That's the color I painted the top of the shuttlecraft I did a while back and I think it would be perfect. In person I believe it would look more "real" as opposed to a bluer grey which in real life looks a little fake IMO.
Will
Will
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PHArchivist
Master Member
INPUT/FEEDBACK NEEDED #3
Based on these photos and the call-outs, it appears to me that there is some physical relief in the equatorial band. Seems to me almost as if they affixed a thin styrene band of plastic along the edge of the domes.
Do you all see what I'm seeing? What appears to be edges of sorts?
And it has been suggested by a couple very reliable sources on the RPF that the image from the film below (the shot with four arrows) was either a matte painting or enhanced photography.
What I'm pointing out in the last photo is what seems to me may be a raised ring around the dish. Then again, I could be making things up in my head.
Based on these photos and the call-outs, it appears to me that there is some physical relief in the equatorial band. Seems to me almost as if they affixed a thin styrene band of plastic along the edge of the domes.
Do you all see what I'm seeing? What appears to be edges of sorts?
And it has been suggested by a couple very reliable sources on the RPF that the image from the film below (the shot with four arrows) was either a matte painting or enhanced photography.
What I'm pointing out in the last photo is what seems to me may be a raised ring around the dish. Then again, I could be making things up in my head.
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The slightly dual tint to the grey is due to the light sources. A pure white source (indoors) will pull out the flat blue grey as seen on the left handside. A more "natural" warm light ( sunlight) will pull out the beige. When filming in the studio a "natural" studio light source was used to show it approaching a systems sun or reflected light of a planet.
So depending on where you are mixing your paint ie under indoor fluros and low enegy light bulbs please be aware that the whole shade scheme will change ,to that as if if you were to mix it under a strong sunlight in an open room.
I do portraits in acrylics and I am constantly surprised how the tonal quality of the painting changes depending on which kind of light source its done under, the time of day and the level to which the room is lit. I usual ask where the painting is to be hung so I can see what wall colours it will be set against and the light source it will be lit by. Otherwise I can get the whole thing to light or dark.
You are best off getting a pure base brilliant white first and a flat black to look at how it appears under the lighting system you have before mixing the paints. Then do a wide selection of grey mixes. Whether you go with a matt or semi gloss appearance will also influence it massively.
Also be aware that your internal lighting will effect it as well , so get some area roughed out and try everything before really settling on it . You've managed brilliantly so far but the paint work that will go into this will be really demanding and, I imagine, alot of masking work will be needed.
Keep it going, it really is a great thing to watch this come together.
So depending on where you are mixing your paint ie under indoor fluros and low enegy light bulbs please be aware that the whole shade scheme will change ,to that as if if you were to mix it under a strong sunlight in an open room.
I do portraits in acrylics and I am constantly surprised how the tonal quality of the painting changes depending on which kind of light source its done under, the time of day and the level to which the room is lit. I usual ask where the painting is to be hung so I can see what wall colours it will be set against and the light source it will be lit by. Otherwise I can get the whole thing to light or dark.
You are best off getting a pure base brilliant white first and a flat black to look at how it appears under the lighting system you have before mixing the paints. Then do a wide selection of grey mixes. Whether you go with a matt or semi gloss appearance will also influence it massively.
Also be aware that your internal lighting will effect it as well , so get some area roughed out and try everything before really settling on it . You've managed brilliantly so far but the paint work that will go into this will be really demanding and, I imagine, alot of masking work will be needed.
Keep it going, it really is a great thing to watch this come together.
Can't any Seattle RPFers run into the museum and help this dude out?? Surely these are all questions easily answered by looking at the physical model.
PHArchivist
Master Member
Its unfortunate that I'm a lameass at times! When I was there, I used the lower-resolution of our two cameras, and had it set at a lower-resoltion/higher frame number setting. So of the pics I have, this detail is pretty much not visible.
Heh, I had the same problem at the recent SW exhibit in Philly. I was so concerned about getting a photographic record of the props and models, that I never actually took the time to appreciate them with my own eyes and take in their details and nuances myself.....and my pics came out crap.
PHArchivist
Master Member
Today's progress...
I added the styrene bits around the dish, and added the vertical struts to the internal armature.
I added the styrene bits around the dish, and added the vertical struts to the internal armature.
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Newbie Doobie
Well-Known Member
Rob - PLEASE LISTEN TO ME!!! DON'T DO IT!!!!! 
lol:lol Is this glued with superglue? If you are bothered by it,then change it! I if it were me,I'd leave it alone,if it wasn't too noticable,but I'd want it right,especially if I knew it was wrong after all this work! If this is glued with Elmers change it. IF superglued with gel - It'll be impossible!
lol:lol Is this glued with superglue? If you are bothered by it,then change it! I if it were me,I'd leave it alone,if it wasn't too noticable,but I'd want it right,especially if I knew it was wrong after all this work! If this is glued with Elmers change it. IF superglued with gel - It'll be impossible!
PHArchivist
Master Member
Rob - PLEASE LISTEN TO ME!!! DON'T DO IT!!!!!
Well... The detail elements of the dish are all styrene, bonded with liquid styrene cement. Which means the bond is essentially styrene melted and welded to styrene. One of the best an most permanent bonds in the hobby. If I modify my dish, I am basically sanding it smooth.
Newbie Doobie
Well-Known Member
Honestly,I'd leave it alone then if this is glued with model cement!
Pappy
Well-Known Member
Im begging you to be careful! :eek hehe,sorry sir,its just im a bit nervous with all bonding materials,always,its just it will leave marks and bad experience all the time.
I say,dont make a timeline for this project,so you wont rushing it.
Wish i can help something,but with my knowledge i cant say anything that helps,but you had make a good start from the beginning sir and i definitely will follow this thread till it finishedthumbsup.
I say,dont make a timeline for this project,so you wont rushing it.
Wish i can help something,but with my knowledge i cant say anything that helps,but you had make a good start from the beginning sir and i definitely will follow this thread till it finished
thumbsup.
vaderdarth
Master Member
dish is looking splendid. Love the detail bits on the rim.
Dave
Dave
Newbie Doobie
Well-Known Member
Im begging you to be careful! :eek hehe,sorry sir,its just im a bit nervous with all bonding materials,always,its just it will leave marks and bad experience all the time.
I say,dont make a timeline for this project,so you wont rushing it.
Wish i can help something,but with my knowledge i cant say anything that helps,but you had make a good start from the beginning sir and i definitely will follow this thread till it finished
I love your avatar Pappy! It rocks - literally!!!
lol:lol I Agree with you on this! Rob,Please don't change it! Model glue will be just as bad as super glue,gel or regular to remove without possble damage,and will only make it worse! It's better to have it slighty off center than destroyed! :cry I think it looks great the way it is! That is my PROFESSIONAL opinion!:cool
Don't go backward. This is a giant project and you will make a hundred mistakes. No one will notice, and you will get used to all hundred of them. Going backward on giant projects also puts you in danger of not finishing. Don't underestimate momentum.
I hemmed an hawed on my R2 and it took me 26 years to finally finish one. On 3PO I tried to not stop. 3 years later he's done. Keep going forward.
BrianM
PHArchivist
Master Member
All good advice, and thanks...
Small administrative update - I emailed both Krylon and Rust-o-leum about their faux granite sprays to see if there is anyway they could make the same thing but with no texture. I highly doubt I'll get a favorable response.
Small administrative update - I emailed both Krylon and Rust-o-leum about their faux granite sprays to see if there is anyway they could make the same thing but with no texture. I highly doubt I'll get a favorable response.
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vistaVision
Sr Member
Hey Rob, this project is looking great!
I remember often seeing our matte painters (once upon a time, matte paintings were actually painted with paint!) and modelshop guys spattering paint with their airbrushes. I don't remember all the details, but they either had a special or modified needle/tip or they might have even removed parts from the tip, and used some combo of thin or thick paint and low or high air pressure to control the spatter from big globs to very fine.
Someone with a lot of airbrush experience should be able to give you some pointers. Likely better results than spray cans.
Marcus
I remember often seeing our matte painters (once upon a time, matte paintings were actually painted with paint!) and modelshop guys spattering paint with their airbrushes. I don't remember all the details, but they either had a special or modified needle/tip or they might have even removed parts from the tip, and used some combo of thin or thick paint and low or high air pressure to control the spatter from big globs to very fine.
Someone with a lot of airbrush experience should be able to give you some pointers. Likely better results than spray cans.
Marcus
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