Build Log: ED-209 Stop Motion Armature

Hi All,

A long time has passed with no updates. I had to take a break and handle life stuff. I see that there's been some discussion, though. That's great! I picked the ED back up this week. I'll reply to some of the comments and provide a build update.

I hope you find some of the photos on this li k usefull for your proyect which, I have to say, is a work of art and precission.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Chronicle-Collectibles/1396578460601995?sk=photos_stream

Thanks for the link and the kind words! The Chronicle ED is fantastic. I suppose you can't get any more accurate than direct casts from the movie prop. The pics were extraordinarily helpful and very timely.

DEPUIS CE Que je ai trouvé après, je ai commencer à Fabriquer l'ED 209 Entièrement en aluminium

http://www.artmoviefan.net/t6114-robot-ed-209

I checked out your blog - your build is fantastic! Very impressive metal working skills. I wish I could read French. :cry


OK, here's where I am: Since my last update, I've been realizing the potential of the 3D printer. I can print nearly anything. It's really a huge asset in my tool set. With that, it's only as good as my 3D design. Up to this point, I've relied on Sketchup to design the ED209 armature. Sketchup has been great for what it is and it does it's job very well. But it does not export very cleanly to .stl format, which is the standard 3D printer file format. My model is also not a true solid model in Sketchup. This is the primary reason Sketchup does not export .stl files well. So, I've spent my downtime learning a new design tool - Autodesk Fusion 360. Fusion is a true parametric-based, solids modeling application. It exports to .stl VERY well. It's also free for the hobbyist. I'm sold. The process of re-design in Fusion forced me to evaluate some of my original assumptions about the dimensions and construction of the armature. I believe this model to be more accurate to the original. Again, the Chronicle pics were invaluable.

Here's my new model:


Another thing I did in my downtime was think about my approach to this build. Machining the parts has been a blast. It's my goal to use this build as a learning project, teaching myself to machine. So far it's been a successful journey towards that goal. One of the things I've learned,though, is that machining is a slow, laborious process where one mistake can scrap hours of hard work. This can be frustrating to say the least. I think I've found a better way.

With my 3D printer and new design, I have the ability to rapidly prototype parts and make assemblies much faster than machining them. As I'm working out the mechanics of an assembly, I can design in Fusion and send the design straight to my 3D printer. I can hold a working model in my hand in a fraction of the time it takes to machine the same model.

So with a new 3D model and my printer, I set out to resolve the design for Ed's knee and shocks. To be clear, I will machine a portion of this design for the final part. But while I'm figuring dimensions and mechanical linkages, I save myself tons of time and frustration and I end up with a much better product by using the 3D printer! So here's the eye candy:

These are the printed parts, true to the Horizon vinyl reference. The Chronicle pics revealed some inaccuracies in the Horizon version. I guess it's safe to say that the Horizon kit was not take directly from the movie prop. Even so, I think the overall dimensions of the Horizon kit are good. So onward with no loss of sleep...


Here's the completed assembly with working shock absorbers!






And here's the entire slide assembly mocked up:






And there you have it. I'll make steady progress for the foreseeable future. Of course, I'll keep this thread updated as regularly as possible. Thanks again to everyone for all the kind feedback. I really appreciate it!
 
Great update mate! Love the marriage between 3-D printing (for mock-up purposes) and the real metal piece. (TFS= Thanks For Sharing Duncanator;))
 
Welcome back Chris!

The leg looks just right to me. The vinyl nature of the Horizon kit has heavily compromised the design, and I've found it very trying to work out exactly how to get this area right. I spent hours trying to build a 3D model of the leg in FreeCAD, but I found the software a little flaky. Fusion looks very cool, but I couldn't find a free version earlier in the year. There only seem to be 30 day trials, or a year if you are a student. Is there a link?

And thanks for the rationale on the need for a 3D printer. I've been working on how to 'sell' one to myself for a while. :cool:
 
Nice job on the 3D parts ! This is the way to go and will save you a lot of time !
Keep up the great work, this is a very inspiring thread.
 
Great update mate! Love the marriage between 3-D printing (for mock-up purposes) and the real metal piece. (TFS= Thanks For Sharing Duncanator;))

Thank you! Adding 3D printing to the workflow has been incredibly fun.

Welcome back Chris!

The leg looks just right to me. The vinyl nature of the Horizon kit has heavily compromised the design, and I've found it very trying to work out exactly how to get this area right. I spent hours trying to build a 3D model of the leg in FreeCAD, but I found the software a little flaky. Fusion looks very cool, but I couldn't find a free version earlier in the year. There only seem to be 30 day trials, or a year if you are a student. Is there a link?

And thanks for the rationale on the need for a 3D printer. I've been working on how to 'sell' one to myself for a while. :cool:

Thanks sir! I was wondering how you were progressing on your build. The Fusion 360 download is here: http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/free-trial. When I registered, it gave me an option for 'student' or 'hobbyist' if I remember correctly. I believe Autodesk will also send you a hobbyist license once the 30-days expire, too. I have the download on Drive as well, I'm happy to share the file.

Nice job on the 3D parts ! This is the way to go and will save you a lot of time !
Keep up the great work, this is a very inspiring thread.

Thanks so much!
 
My hero of villians!!! Been following this. Looking great!

One random question though. Lord knows I want a 3d printer. I know these are functional test parts but how do you eliminate the grooves if trying to use a printed part for a final piece?
 
My hero of villians!!! Been following this. Looking great!

One random question though. Lord knows I want a 3d printer. I know these are functional test parts but how do you eliminate the grooves if trying to use a printed part for a final piece?

Ah, the ubiquitous "how do I remove the grooves?" question! I'm happy to give you my take. First, know that I'm printing these parts at a low resolution for a faster print (.35 mm layer height) The grooves are more pronounced for that reason. I will actually print some of the final parts when the time comes. I will print these parts at .1mm layer height. At this resolution the grooves are barely noticable when primer and paint are applied. I will smooth the parts though for a completely non-grooved appearance.

If I was printing with ABS filament I could use an acetone vapor bath and smooth the parts by way of chemistry. This is a tried and true method that requires no elbow grease - just some safety precautions. These parts, however, are printed with PLA filament. Acetone has no chemical reaction with PLA. I'll smooth simpler parts with some primer and a little sanding. For more complex parts (ie where it's more difficult to reach nooks and crannies) I plan to use a Smooth-On product: http://www.smooth-on.com/Epoxy-Coatings-XTC/c1397_1429/index.html. I hear this stuff works great, so we'll see.

Extrusion printing will inevitably leave behind some layering evidence. This is a small price for such a valuable output though. I've already updated these parts with better features simply because I was able to print, drill, tap, and test real assemblies in a very short period of time. I can hit the mill and lathe with 100% confidence that my final parts will work exactly as I expect.
 
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One thing I don't quite grasp with the grooves thing is, is the depth of the groove the margin of error when it comes to being an accurate recreation of the original part?
By filling them, am I making the part too big? By sanding them down, am I making the part too small?
 
One thing I don't quite grasp with the grooves thing is, is the depth of the groove the margin of error when it comes to being an accurate recreation of the original part?
By filling them, am I making the part too big? By sanding them down, am I making the part too small?

Hi Treadwell - No, there is no size degradation by filling the grooves. Unless you sand too much, of course. The extrusion algorithm 'fits' the layers, despite their height, into the overall dimension of the part. So, the layer height and number of layers are fit within the overall dimension. I've used used digital calipers to verify part sizes during printer calibration. I've been able to get the parts within .01" of my desired dimensions. I could probably improve this to .001 if I spent enough time.

Filling in the grooves is just adding filler material to the space between layers. And it's a very small space. I sand enough to level the filler with the edge of the layer, no more. It's no different than filling seams on a model. My model's size is not affected unless I over sand.

In the near future, I'll print one of Ed's shocks at .1mm. I'll post a pre-sanded and post-sanded pic. Pictures communicate this approach far better than words. :)
 
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Totally impressed by your skills CG, I don't know how I missed this thread, I'll be following it from now on.
Keep the excellent work (y)thumbsup:thumbsup
 
Hello, Sory for my English, i have finished my ED 209 , the head turn, the arms move.
It's made whit aluminium, His weigth is 77 pounds, or 35 Kg.







 

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