BTTF: From Krups Coffina to Mr. Fusion - Discussion, Questions, Tips and Tricks

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Roland

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
That's another good question, where to source the water slide decals.

I couldn't find anything, I thought Roland had a run but I can't find it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I never had a run of Mr. Fusion stickers. I just posted the file for free. Blank sheets for inkjet and laser printers can be found on eBay. Search for "clear waterslide decal paper sheets".
 

jhk1976

Well-Known Member
Right, but wouldn't you need one that prints opaque white? I know Gary Weaver used a printer with that functionality when he made water slide decals many moons ago.
 

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Roland

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Right, but wouldn't you need one that prints opaque white? I know Gary Weaver used a printer with that functionality when he made water slide decals many moons ago.

Yes, if you want to make a BTTF 1 version, you would need a printer that prints white color. Simple home or office printer can't do that. If you don't have a cutting plotter and you have a steady hand and very fine scissors, print the logo (the one with the gray background) on a white vinyl sheet and cut it out by hand.
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I never had a run of Mr. Fusion stickers. I just posted the file for free. Blank sheets for inkjet and laser printers can be found on eBay. Search for "clear waterslide decal paper sheets".

ah! that makes sense now! i forgot who PMed me saying you did a run and to PM you, i didnt a couple of searches before haunting you with another PM. this is great to know!
 

Ojobenito

Active Member
Hi.
I may get a Krups for making my Mr.Fusion replica, but not the white one, so I think I may have to do some sanding & painting.
I really like how the orange grinder from @Julien1652 ended up in a nice and great white grinder.
My question is: if I have to do the same, can you please tell me what kind of sandpaper is best, and when will I know I've sanded enough? How would I know I have to stop the sanding process?
Also, about the paint, would a common white paint-spray work? Does it need to be glossy or not? Also, I think it's good to add a final clear coat to protect the paint, and give the grinder a nice texture. Does the clear coat need to be glossy, semi-glossy, or flat?

Thanks a lot for the info in case you can help me so I can make a good replica. Finally, about the stickers.... any recommendations? I prefer the look of the BTTF part 1 ending, so what stickers are the best? In case any of you have a spare set os stickers, I'll buy them to you if the price is fair, of course.

Thanks again!!!!
 
Last edited:

Julien1652

New Member
Hi.
I may get a Krups for making my Mr.Fusion replica, but not the white one, so I think I may have to do some sanding & painting.
I really like how the orange grinder from @Julien1652 ended up in a nice and great white grinder.
My question is: if I have to do the same, can you please tell me what kind of sandpaper is best, and when will I know I've sanded enough? How would I know I have to stop the sanding process?
Also, about the paint, would a common white paint-spray work? Does it need to be glossy or not? Also, I think it's good to add a final clear coat to protect the paint, and give the grinder a nice texture. Does the clear coat need to be glossy, semi-glossy, or flat?

Thanks a lot for the info in case you can help me so I can make a good replica. Finally, about the stickers.... any recommendations? I prefer the look of the BTTF part 1 ending, so what stickers are the best? In case any of you have a spare set os stickers, I'll buy them to you if the price is fair, of course.

Thanks again!!!!

Hi

Sanding First, I used sandpaper with water in p800 and p1200 to finishing.

Sandind without being too abrasive.
then we must be degreased before painting.
f
or painting, it is worth taking the epoxy gloss white paint ( coverage ) no need to varnish. [emoji106]

(Excuse me for my very bad english)


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
 

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jhk1976

Well-Known Member
You CAN remove the motor, but only the central wound motor core. I wish I had pictures of the process, but it's not too terribly hard. There are some metal clips you have to undo and I think some screws holding in the grinder on one end. You need to keep the Die Cast motor frame in the unit to support the lower cup and the lower rear knob.

If someone can shoot me some pics of the motor assembly I could photoshop some notes on it to tell you what needs to go and how.

-Gary

I'm finally getting back to this project after working on V2 Mag modding for a while...

Gary, here are the pics:

19029dfe057548e3c5d9cb1554107c20.jpg
cf13cfa27ecafd8cb11e4e5ccd4e5d4a.jpg
bd2065be00ceb65b060d877e4686c16d.jpg
 

jhk1976

Well-Known Member
I figured it out on my own. You were correct, it's really not that bad. After unscrewing the plastic piece at the top of the motor assembly (three flatheads), there are three metal clips to remove, one wide one at the center of the motor and then the two smaller ones at the top and bottom. I also took out the wiring, retaining the timer knob at the top and the grind setting knob at the bottom that attaches to the round plastic piece and spring that fits back onto the bottom of the motor frame.

I removed the power cable too, as I would presume you just leave the open hole there where the cord was.

f51816bf05162aed8cd06cadf498e4b3.jpg
926c6ac0a041fa7c9285416cc31dcb12.jpg
e2b0715f4ab54f3fd1ebd35d57bd4121.jpg
8ce9e45914f133695439cf5c2350a519.jpg
c997210fea92f3c637c6611f4aa88aaf.jpg
 

Gary Weaver II

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Yup, that's all you have to do. Easy peasy.

-Gary

I figured it out on my own. You were correct, it's really not that bad. After unscrewing the plastic piece at the top of the motor assembly (three flatheads), there are three metal clips to remove, one wide one at the center of the motor and then the two smaller ones at the top and bottom. I also took out the wiring, retaining the timer knob at the top and the grind setting knob at the bottom that attaches to the round plastic piece and spring that fits back onto the bottom of the motor frame.

I removed the power cable too, as I would presume you just leave the open hole there where the cord was.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160808/f51816bf05162aed8cd06cadf498e4b3.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160808/926c6ac0a041fa7c9285416cc31dcb12.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160808/e2b0715f4ab54f3fd1ebd35d57bd4121.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160808/8ce9e45914f133695439cf5c2350a519.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160808/c997210fea92f3c637c6611f4aa88aaf.jpg
 

jhk1976

Well-Known Member
One I finish this one, i plan to do a second with some lighting effects for fun. I was thinking of putting some white EL panels in the clear widows at the top behind the die cut logo, and perhaps an LED of some sort in the front plastic cup. There's plenty of space inside the unit to add the necessary electronics and inverters -- and I could run the power cable out the back where the previous one was.
 

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