catboat
Member
Thats great thanks. I found this printable chassis. What do you use in blade end? Sorry like I said I am new here.
Thats great thanks. I found this printable chassis. What do you use in blade end? Sorry like I said I am new here.
Thats great thanks. I found this printable chassis. What do you use in blade end? Sorry like I said I am new here.
Great I have the Crystal Chamber on order. "main connectors" The blade connector?so that is the chassis I designed for use with our crystal chamber. If you are planning a simpler install then Etsy has some (RGV sabers by Travis Armstrong for example). The Blade Side you want pretty standard connector holders offered by Dmitry etc.
I am going to update the design to include holders for the main connectors but have not done so yet.
right now I have one for the shtok V2 connectors but need to make ones for the TCSS, KR and shtok v3 ones
Great I have the Crystal Chamber on order. "main connectors" The blade connector?
ok great will do. ok a couple more questions. I saw some of the brass goes on the reveal card. Where does the rest of it go? Whats the easiest way to attach the hook?Yes. Sit tight before printing. I'm soon to release a new version that has files for blade connectors of the main types and also CFX board profile.
I was curious if there will also be a chassis where the lower part (with battery, speaker and board) is removable? Or is that not possible due to the design?Yes. Sit tight before printing. I'm soon to release a new version that has files for blade connectors of the main types and also CFX board profile.
I was curious if there will also be a chassis where the lower part (with battery, speaker and board) is removable? Or is that not possible due to the design?
ok great will do. ok a couple more questions. I saw some of the brass goes on the reveal card. Where does the rest of it go? Whats the easiest way to attach the hook?
Alright, then I'll continue to wait patiently.I am working on a removable 18650 design but it's not done yet.
I'm in the same boat here too. Also still waiting on a helper and reveal. Maybe it's went out already but I don't have any tracking info so I'm not sure.Shoot me name, email, shipping info through PM. I’ll double check and ping him.
Pm me your details and I’ll get back with you tomorrowAre there any spare clamp cards available for the MoM? I heard that later batches had more accurate cards that also fit better in the rails of the control box. And the card I got from batch 1 is a bit beaten up from all the sanding.
Will doPm me your details and I’ll get back with you tomorrow
Quick question. For the MoM, I know there is the metal steel cup which is used on other sabers to give more stability to the thin neck blades. Is there a specific pcb holder we should be using in combination with the recessed blade pcb holder as well if we want to use that metal cup?Yes. Sit tight before printing. I'm soon to release a new version that has files for blade connectors of the main types and also CFX board profile.
Sorry if this is obvious, but does this mean that I can not wire this up to a CFX with this current iteration of the helper board?
Sorry if this is obvious, but does this mean that I can not wire this up to a CFX with this current iteration of the helper board?
If that is the case, can I still hook up the switches to a CFX without connecting the accent LEDs? Is there a way to do this?
I was attempting to wire this and hit this roadblock. I have done very few installs, so I wasn't sure how to go about this.
And I’ve gone cross eyedNot a bad question at all. The answer is yes, and no. So, the issue is that the CFX sequencer does not allow for accent pixels on separate lines that do not mirror the main blade. So because the 1st Gen helper boards are pixels they do not work out of the box for CFX.
However; if you are feeling ambitious what you CAN do is replace the pixel SMDs with negative controlled standard LEDs (they share the same footprint in the 2x4mm variety). Then you simply connect the negative leads for control and ignore the data line pads. This has been successfully done by a customer already. (SMD soldering experience and equipment required to do this). Another option is, as you say, just wire separate leds from the board and just don't hook up the led- and data pads from the board.
The Next version of the helper (in manufacture now) will be standard LEDs to make more universal board support easier given many boards cannot handle the separate pixel sequencing needed for accent pixels (CFX being one)
Not a bad question at all. The answer is yes, and no. So, the issue is that the CFX sequencer does not allow for accent pixels on separate lines that do not mirror the main blade. So because the 1st Gen helper boards are pixels they do not work out of the box for CFX.
However; if you are feeling ambitious what you CAN do is replace the pixel SMDs with negative controlled standard LEDs (they share the same footprint in the 2x4mm variety). Then you simply connect the negative leads for control and ignore the data line pads. This has been successfully done by a customer already. (SMD soldering experience and equipment required to do this). Another option is, as you say, just wire separate leds from the board and just don't hook up the led- and data pads from the board.
The Next version of the helper (in manufacture now) will be standard LEDs to make more universal board support easier given many boards cannot handle the separate pixel sequencing needed for accent pixels (CFX being one)
Shouldn’t be long at allI will await the next version for the accent LEDs.