BRRogers / Verity Cosplay / 7 Chambers - "MoM of All Heroes"

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.


Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Verity Cosplay

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thats great thanks. I found this printable chassis. What do you use in blade end? Sorry like I said I am new here.

so that is the chassis I designed for use with our crystal chamber. If you are planning a simpler install then Etsy has some (RGV sabers by Travis Armstrong for example). The Blade Side you want pretty standard connector holders offered by Dmitry etc.

I am going to update the design to include holders for the main connectors but have not done so yet.

right now I have one for the shtok V2 connectors but need to make ones for the TCSS, KR and shtok v3 ones
 

catboat

New Member
so that is the chassis I designed for use with our crystal chamber. If you are planning a simpler install then Etsy has some (RGV sabers by Travis Armstrong for example). The Blade Side you want pretty standard connector holders offered by Dmitry etc.

I am going to update the design to include holders for the main connectors but have not done so yet.

right now I have one for the shtok V2 connectors but need to make ones for the TCSS, KR and shtok v3 ones
Great I have the Crystal Chamber on order. "main connectors" The blade connector?
 

catboat

New Member
Yes. Sit tight before printing. I'm soon to release a new version that has files for blade connectors of the main types and also CFX board profile.
ok great will do. ok a couple more questions. I saw some of the brass goes on the reveal card. Where does the rest of it go? Whats the easiest way to attach the hook?
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Are there any spare clamp cards available for the MoM? I heard that later batches had more accurate cards that also fit better in the rails of the control box. And the card I got from batch 1 is a bit beaten up from all the sanding.
 

BRRogers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Are there any spare clamp cards available for the MoM? I heard that later batches had more accurate cards that also fit better in the rails of the control box. And the card I got from batch 1 is a bit beaten up from all the sanding.
Pm me your details and I’ll get back with you tomorrow :)
 

Srycantthnkof1

New Member
Yes. Sit tight before printing. I'm soon to release a new version that has files for blade connectors of the main types and also CFX board profile.
Quick question. For the MoM, I know there is the metal steel cup which is used on other sabers to give more stability to the thin neck blades. Is there a specific pcb holder we should be using in combination with the recessed blade pcb holder as well if we want to use that metal cup?
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Verity Cosplay

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Sorry if this is obvious, but does this mean that I can not wire this up to a CFX with this current iteration of the helper board?

If that is the case, can I still hook up the switches to a CFX without connecting the accent LEDs? Is there a way to do this?

I was attempting to wire this and hit this roadblock. I have done very few installs, so I wasn't sure how to go about this.

Not a bad question at all. The answer is yes, and no. So, the issue is that the CFX sequencer does not allow for accent pixels on separate lines that do not mirror the main blade. So because the 1st Gen helper boards are pixels they do not work out of the box for CFX.

However; if you are feeling ambitious what you CAN do is replace the pixel SMDs with negative controlled standard LEDs (they share the same footprint in the 2x4mm variety). Then you simply connect the negative leads for control and ignore the data line pads. This has been successfully done by a customer already. (SMD soldering experience and equipment required to do this). Another option is, as you say, just wire separate leds from the board and just don't hook up the led- and data pads from the board.

The Next version of the helper (in manufacture now) will be standard LEDs to make more universal board support easier given many boards cannot handle the separate pixel sequencing needed for accent pixels (CFX being one)
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Not a bad question at all. The answer is yes, and no. So, the issue is that the CFX sequencer does not allow for accent pixels on separate lines that do not mirror the main blade. So because the 1st Gen helper boards are pixels they do not work out of the box for CFX.

However; if you are feeling ambitious what you CAN do is replace the pixel SMDs with negative controlled standard LEDs (they share the same footprint in the 2x4mm variety). Then you simply connect the negative leads for control and ignore the data line pads. This has been successfully done by a customer already. (SMD soldering experience and equipment required to do this). Another option is, as you say, just wire separate leds from the board and just don't hook up the led- and data pads from the board.

The Next version of the helper (in manufacture now) will be standard LEDs to make more universal board support easier given many boards cannot handle the separate pixel sequencing needed for accent pixels (CFX being one)
And I’ve gone cross eyed :p
 

BENnotKENOBI

New Member
Not a bad question at all. The answer is yes, and no. So, the issue is that the CFX sequencer does not allow for accent pixels on separate lines that do not mirror the main blade. So because the 1st Gen helper boards are pixels they do not work out of the box for CFX.

However; if you are feeling ambitious what you CAN do is replace the pixel SMDs with negative controlled standard LEDs (they share the same footprint in the 2x4mm variety). Then you simply connect the negative leads for control and ignore the data line pads. This has been successfully done by a customer already. (SMD soldering experience and equipment required to do this). Another option is, as you say, just wire separate leds from the board and just don't hook up the led- and data pads from the board.

The Next version of the helper (in manufacture now) will be standard LEDs to make more universal board support easier given many boards cannot handle the separate pixel sequencing needed for accent pixels (CFX being one)

Thanks for the response!!

That is what I was figuring, and I am no where ambitious to do that. :lol: I actually got the chassis from Travis that you mentioned previously, and his comes with a holder for tactile switches AND the switches. So that will definitely hold me over.

I will await the next version for the accent LEDs.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. Your new thread title is very short, and likely is unhelpful.
  2. Your reply is very short and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  3. Your reply is very long and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  4. It is very likely that it does not need any further discussion and thus bumping it serves no purpose.
  5. Your message is mostly quotes or spoilers.
  6. Your reply has occurred very quickly after a previous reply and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  7. This thread is locked.

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Top