Blade Runner Blaster news: model kit version of the Tomenosuke Blaster is coming

That's pretty extraordinary, Darth Infamous. Well done!

No idea on the metal bits, sorry. Try it out on an unobtrusive area, inside of the slide or wherever.
 
I've polished like a mad man, made me think back to when I polished the parts for my noisy cricket. A question about de-greasing, what is the best way, any household chemicals that works and what about washing the parts before bluing them?
Here's the upper receiver after wet sanding and polishing.
And a pic of a risky set up I used when sanding the barrel. I used the metal plug from inside the barrel, reversed it and dropped the pin back in to lock it. Slow speed only and hold on to the barrel with the steel wool for guidance, otherwise the whole thing starts wobbling. I can't seem to get the shine on the barrel I have seen others here achieve.
vejavy4u.jpg
sype6ega.jpg
 
Great! Now scuff your slide up with Scotchbrite... :(

Argh. I prefer not to :0

PeterLC.
I wet sanded it in 5 steps going from grain 350 ( maybe 400 can't recall now) to 2000. Then I polished with the two fine grade sides of the nail buffer in the pic below. It's a cheep buffer I found here in DK. The different sides come of making it easier to use. Then I buffed it with some very fine polish paste and a soft cotton rag. Oh yes, and a lot of elbow grease.

6ehaqere.jpg


usavaha9.jpg
 
Okay, I see what you mean. I haven't polished it that much and finished with fine steel wool so it should be fine, I hope.
 
In my opinion , to get a true blue effect on the barrel, the only way is to replace it with a steel one - as any blueing compound will work and be very effective , I wouldn't really recommend trying to blue the gun frame since it isn't metal , so I would instead suggest 'Rub and Buff' or Humbrol Gunmetal, which give an acceptable finish , clean all the part's to polish with a good degreaser any good motor accessory shop will carry a range of degreasers , wear gloves before, during and after, use a good polishing compound and a buffing wheel to get the best mirror like finish , then degrease , then blue and then re polish, I use Jade oil as it waterproofs the metal and protects the surface.
 
...so their plastic is similar to a cold cast bronze material. They add powered zink to the ABS for weight and when you "exfoliate"/sand or open up to pores the plastic will accept bluing agents. interesting.
 
Yes. Propsjonnyb has some good info on blueing but doesn't take that factor into account.
 
I finished the build, great fun and excellent model I'm very happy with the whole experience. Finally got to do some blueing on bigger parts. Not easy!
A few complaints though. The hand ejector is not that well constructed, it's not long enough to easily eject the cylinder. And the cylinder feels a bit wobbly in the hinge. Also the long butt plate screw is too long and the thread should go all the way to the top of the screw, right now I can't get it in all the way even though I did shorten it.
And of cause the problem with the bolt handle being a bit loose.
BUT I LOVE THE BLASTER BIG TIME!
Final Gun.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Final Gun 1.jpg
    Final Gun 1.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 866
The hand ejector is not that well constructed, it's not long enough to easily eject the cylinder.

This can be improved if you tighten up really tight, the screw that holds the trigger guard on. Part 44 step 18.

And the cylinder feels a bit wobbly in the hinge.

This issue is also corrected by the same solution above

Also the long butt plate screw is too long and the thread should go all the way to the top of the screw, right now I can't get it in all the way even though I did shorten it.

That screw is a little too long, but look at the reference photos to see that this screw doesn't go in as far as the front screw. Think of the front screw as holding the butt plate snug and the rear longer screw as just keeping it from swiveling.

And of cause the problem with the bolt handle being a bit loose.

There are a couple of easy fixes for this as well. Look back through the thread. I showed pictures of two different methods that others have used. Either a rubber washer cut to fit the front inside of the barrel where the bolt meets it. Or a very thin washer between the end of the bolt (part 10) and the sleeve (part 11)

Looks great! I like your results on the bluing!
 
This can be improved if you tighten up really tight, the screw that holds the trigger guard on. Part 44 step 18.
This issue is also corrected by the same solution above

I took the gun apart, just enough to get to the cylinder. A close examination of the cylinder parts made me realize that the wobbly feeling had two causes. The brass tube (part 46) does not fit the screw (part 44) and the crane (part 45) has the same issue with the cylinder.
Not having a tube thar fits the bill better, I gently squeezed the brass tube making it a bit warped. That took care of the crane problem, and the cylinder is not that big an issue more, I can live with the cylinder being a little loose. I then shortened the screw (part 44) to prevent it from grinding in to the crane.

TThat screw is a little too long, but look at the reference photos to see that this screw doesn't go in as far as the front screw. Think of the front screw as holding the butt plate snug and the rear longer screw as just keeping it from swiveling.

Your absolutely right, I missed that detail, so no fix here.

TThere are a couple of easy fixes for this as well. Look back through the thread. I showed pictures of two different methods that others have used. Either a rubber washer cut to fit the front inside of the barrel where the bolt meets it. Or a very thin washer between the end of the bolt (part 10) and the sleeve (part 11)

The bolt issue was an easy fix, I just fitted two layers of heat shrinking sleeves to the outside of the center pin right in front of the bolt.

Made a dodo ): I shortened the wrong screw at first, part 83 the grip frame screw. Luckily not so much it didn't fit.

TLooks great! I like your results on the bluing!

Thanks :) I am pleased with the result myself. Keep picking it up, it's an uber cool kit.

I'm thinking of making a holster but I could use some measurements, anyone have a good SA holster out there.
I'll probably make one without the steel inlay and opt for a strap to hold the gun in place. The steel inlay will have to be pretty tight to hold the gun and I'm not sure I want to risk damaging the gun.
 
At long last! I have finished the initial build of my Tomenosuke Pro Blaster. I say initial because I do plan to weather it eventually, but for now I want to enjoy it in all its nearly pristine glory. The flash pictures I took really show all the gory details. In normal light the bluing on all the parts looks much more even. It took me a while to work out the technique, but I think it came out really well.

Many thanks to DaveG for his awesome barrel and display stand. And thanks as well to all the members of this forum who provided so much help.

Finished PKD-48.jpgFinished PKD-42.jpgFinished PKD-23.jpgFinished PKD-22.jpgFinished PKD-51.jpg
 
At long last! I have finished the initial build of my Tomenosuke Pro Blaster. I say initial because I do plan to weather it eventually, but for now I want to enjoy it in all its nearly pristine glory. The flash pictures I took really show all the gory details. In normal light the bluing on all the parts looks much more even. It took me a while to work out the technique, but I think it came out really well.

Many thanks to DaveG for his awesome barrel and display stand. And thanks as well to all the members of this forum who provided so much help.

View attachment 244127View attachment 244128View attachment 244129View attachment 244130View attachment 244126

Great Looking - I have been busy for a bit and glad to pop back on and see this !
 
Back
Top