Batman Beyond-based on art by Mark Vick

So when you're finally about to put this stuff on, will the silicone stretch enough to go over feet/knees etc or do you not think there will be any of those issues? Cant quite see the width of things accurately obviously. Great work - cannot wait to see the first pull being detailed up
 
So when you're finally about to put this stuff on, will the silicone stretch enough to go over feet/knees etc or do you not think there will be any of those issues? Cant quite see the width of things accurately obviously. Great work - cannot wait to see the first pull being detailed up

The silicone will have enough stretch no problem. The lower half will be like a pair of pants but attached to a spandex undersuit... like wise with the top. Knee pads will fill the gap between the boots and the thigh

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Gonna get hot, though... I'd run some thin tubing, filled with Water, and run it all to a 12v Fish tank water pump in a back pack.

& Mabey wrap some of that tubing around one of those Freezer blocks (that you put in your lunch box to keep your food cold for Work/School)...
 
Doing a test patch of dragon skin silicone. This way I can check the finish and how thick or thin to make it. Now I have to wait 4 hours
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dragon skin is pretty expensive what is your total so far from the raw man to how much you think it will be to finish in total?$$$
 
dragon skin is pretty expensive what is your total so far from the raw man to how much you think it will be to finish in total?$$$

Ya know, I really hadn't added it up yet but here we go.

-Mannequin $140
-Clay $250
-Clay tools $100
-Large crock pot (melting the clay) $20
-cowl (not telling)
-boots $75
-3d printer filament $30
-mold materials $300
-dragonskin and such $250

Total minus the cowl is just shy of $1,200 but that does not include the endless number of hours sculpting.



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The test patch was a success! Laying the swatch of cast dragon skin over the cowl for comparison. The color is about as close as you can get, the texture is nearly the same. I learned how thick I'm gonna need to make it now. So next week Tuesday when I have a day off, I think I'll attempt to cast the lower half.
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You have to melt the clay 1st?

It's not Soft and Plyable without heating it up?

It is "soft" but I went with a medium hardness and adding about 50 pounds of clay takes a long time. So a trick I learned from Snooth-On was to melt it down to a consistency of pudding, and brush it over the surface of the mannequin. This allowed total coverage without air pockets, and a fast build up without wearing out my hands.

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Doing a test patch of dragon skin silicone. This way I can check the finish and how thick or thin to make it. Now I have to wait 4 hours
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Dragon Skin is a Platinum Silicone, thus heat will cure it instantly. I used to use it daily on a bunch of projects. Brush it in, hit it with a heat gun and it'll snap cure. That way you can brush in layer on top of layer and figure out your thickness right away. You can demold in minutes. Same of course with the full suit. Heat cures it instantly. I used to run dozens of molds at the same time then put heaters on them...demold and repour new castings same day over and over again.

David
 
Dragon Skin is a Platinum Silicone, thus heat will cure it instantly. I used to use it daily on a bunch of projects. Brush it in, hit it with a heat gun and it'll snap cure. That way you can brush in layer on top of layer and figure out your thickness right away. You can demold in minutes. Same of course with the full suit. Heat cures it instantly. I used to run dozens of molds at the same time then put heaters on them...demold and repour new castings same day over and over again.

David

Thank you!!!!!

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Dragon Skin is a Platinum Silicone, thus heat will cure it instantly. I used to use it daily on a bunch of projects. Brush it in, hit it with a heat gun and it'll snap cure. That way you can brush in layer on top of layer and figure out your thickness right away. You can demold in minutes. Same of course with the full suit. Heat cures it instantly. I used to run dozens of molds at the same time then put heaters on them...demold and repour new castings same day over and over again.

David
This is helpful information. I just purchased some Dragon Skin 10. I figured that 10 minutes would be just enough time to work with it before it cured. I never thought about using a heatgun on it to speed up the curing between layers. That is an awesome tip.

You can also brush in spandex or lycra like you would fiberglass to give it extra strength with a little stretch too; right?
 
This is helpful information. I just purchased some Dragon Skin 10. I figured that 10 minutes would be just enough time to work with it before it cured. I never thought about using a heatgun on it to speed up the curing between layers. That is an awesome tip.

You can also brush in spandex or lycra like you would fiberglass to give it extra strength with a little stretch too; right?

Adding spandex is typically done to give the silicone more thickness. It won't help it stretch, as a matter of fact it could cause it to tear because spandex will stretch independently of the silicone and could eventually delaminate.
Silicone stretches a certain way, spandex in another way so it's important to make these considerations in armpit, groin, elbow areas and so on. I used to use thick cotton and wool to imbed into the silicone just to make the casting thicker...and nothing but silicone in key stretch areas.

Anyway, back on topic. Loving this costume and appreciate the progress pics. :)

David
 
Well the lower half is cast... Cross your fingers that I made it thick enough and that it comes out. Hit it with a heat gun but I still wanna wait the 4hours to be extra sure it cures.
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