AT-ST weathering disaster HELP!!!!!!

[Guy Cowen]

I just got back from a few days away at work & attempted to mount my at-st on its mahogany base. I just discovered the white highlights i added with oil paint (after a coat of dull coat ) have eaten through the paint beneath & havent dried in 4 days. If you wipe the oil paint it comes off & shows the original base coat of black. NOOOOOOOOOOOO

The good news is it hasn't affected the surrounding paint & I have only used it on edges & some random light patches. What can I do, if i wipe it all off it will look a mess & if I dont touch it, it seems ok. Can I seal it or aid it in drying so it stays as is? Any advice would be a real help as I'm panicking a bit here & dont want to ruin my hard work with this stupid mistake. Is it not possible to apply oils over dull coat & what should I use to seal the acrylic paint before using oils & should I avoid oils all together? There is a pint in it for anyone that can help.....PLEASE:cry

 

[mslz22]

Not sure if you have it in the UK but in the US you can get a product called Japan drier that is supposed to help cure oil paint, you may be able to lightly brush some on and leave it to see if it speeds up the cure. I have never heard of oil paint reacting with anything, what was the dull coat you used?
mike

I just got back from a few days away at work & attempted to mount my at-st on its mahogany base. I just discovered the white highlights i added with oil paint (after a coat of dull coat ) have eaten through the paint beneath & havent dried in 4 days. If you wipe the oil paint it comes off & shows the original base coat of black. NOOOOOOOOOOOO

The good news is it hasn't affected the surrounding paint & I have only used it on edges & some random light patches. What can I do, if i wipe it all off it will look a mess & if I dont touch it, it seems ok. Can I seal it or aid it in drying so it stays as is? Any advice would be a real help as I'm panicking a bit here & dont want to ruin my hard work with this stupid mistake. Is it not possible to apply oils over dull coat & what should I use to seal the acrylic paint before using oils & should I avoid oils all together? There is a pint in it for anyone that can help.....PLEASE:cry

 

[Guy Cowen]

Thanks Mike, it was testers Dull Coat.

 

[PHArchivist]

Show us what you're talking about if you can...

 

[DL 44 Blaster]

So the oils went on last....acrylics first, then Dullcote, then oil highlights.

If I have the order right, there must not have been sufficient cure time between the acrylics and Dullcote...then adding the oils must have taken the cake so to speak. It may be a time thing. Play the wait & see card.

I've never had any problems with using acrylics and Dullcote in the same day, so I may be misunderstanding the order in which the mediums were apllied.:redface

 

[Guy Cowen]

Hi Rob, i have highlighted the area's that I mean, the white is pure oil paint brushed on very lightly just to create a highlight. This was over 4 days ago & it still isn't dry, As you can see its hardly a thick coat & if you wipe at it it comes off 7 brings off the the layer of dull coat & acrylic paint underneath. Showing through to the black base coat. Any idea's I've looked for the Japan Drier but cant track any in the UK? Thanks Guy

 

[Guy Cowen]

Just been cleaning some oil off with a q tip & its not the same all over. some areas are damaged & some aren't. Thankfully the face is OK but some leg bits are going to need to be touched up.

The order is

Primer
2 coats of Halfords black satin
My acrylic base coat
Acrylic mist
pastels dry/wet
Dull coat
Oils

Each had plenty of drying time but I cant remember the time from dull coat to oils!!!

 

[Guy Cowen]

On a positive note, I'm working with Seasick Steve at the moment & have named all his guitars so I know what guitar to give him for each song, he has a Red Kent guitar from the 60's that only has 3 strings so its called Red 3, & his main guitar is now called Gold Leader. He hasn't got a clue why I'm chuffed everyday to play with Red 3 , god I'm a looser

 

[Skidmarks_Diecast]

Are the areas with the oil paint highlights wrinkling up? If not, don't panic. It may take a good month for the oil paint to completely dry. As long as the oil paint doesn't start acting like a paint remover, it'll be ok.

 

[Guy Cowen]

Are the areas with the oil paint highlights wrinkling up? If not, don't panic. It may take a good month for the oil paint to completely dry. As long as the oil paint doesn't start acting like a paint remover, it'll be ok.

As far as I can tell there's no wrinkling, I'm going to sit this one out till it dries.

 

[ralphee]

Guy, you will find oils if painted on will take some drying buddy, i only use them as washes but even then you can get a bit of tack for a day or so!

Maybe try enamels next time for this weathering tech? Ive not gelled well with painting oils onto models, simply due to this little drawback that can arise.
Im sure there is a setting solution for oils though bro....try Daler Rowney's catalogue...there may be something in there!

lee

 

[Pauleysolo]

Yes- just wait it out- you should be okay- and avoid oils in the future. The model looks great in the picture by the way.

 

[Guy Cowen]

Thanks guy's. I'll wait it out & see. Hopefully it'll all be OK.
Its on its new base now & I'll update the main thread.

 

[Gigatron]

I find the best way to protect against oils is a good coat of Future Floor Wax (or Johnson's Wax, depending on where you live).

My paint order is usually; primer - topcoat - drybrushing - Future - oils.

But you have to let the Future cure for at least 48 hours (preferably longer) before using oils.

I once tried oils directly over the topcoat (tamiya acrylics) and all it did was act as a paint remover. Nasty stuff, those oil paints.

-Fred