Aron's Ironman Helmet - Paint and LED's finished

[pandamajik]

Finished product looks good. Any tips on how you got the pieces to line up again after cutting it apart?

I'm working on a helmet that I had to cut in several pieces since it's fairly close fitting. The width of the dremel cutter I used makes it so there's a gap (don't think this can be avoided). I added some body filler around all the edges and did some sanding but I'm finding it difficult to get all the areas to match up really well. My current plan is to maybe put some vaseline/wax on one side and that way when I build up the body filler on the other piece I can just put them together for essentially a "perfect" fit. Not sure if my explanation is understandable but just trying to explain what my plan is at the moment.

 

[aron42486]

Any tips on how you got the pieces to line up again after cutting it apart?

I added some body filler around all the edges and did some sanding but I'm finding it difficult to get all the areas to match up really well.

That is exactly how I did it. The dremel does take out some material and I used filler to put it back. There were some areas that needed alot of filler, so I used apoxie sculpt in those areas instead.

There are still gaps on my piece, it doesn't sit perfectly. If I decide to work on it more later I will continue that process to get a perfect match. It just takes time and patience.

 

[jnsbanman]

Nice work aron... LEDs almost blinding now. You could hook your lights up with a reed switch on the ground or power lines to have them on closed and off as soon as the faceplate starts opening.

What was the strength of that servo?

 

[mizuno hadouken]

Aaron - What tool did you use in order to insert the detail screws?

 

[pRoJectEarth7]

WOW!... I'm very very impressed Aronthumbsup:thumbsup...

Awesome job... I would have thought its a different helmet from the mummy helmet last time...

Congratulations man!

cheers!

 

[aron42486]

Nice work aron... LEDs almost blinding now. You could hook your lights up with a reed switch on the ground or power lines to have them on closed and off as soon as the faceplate starts opening.

What was the strength of that servo?

Servo was around 150 oz/in at 6 volts. This might be strong enough to lift a urethane cast faceplate, but with all the bondo on mine it is far too heavy

Aaron - What tool did you use in order to insert the detail screws?

I ordered Bimmer's Screw details from shapeways, so they are pretty much 3d printed bolts. I drilled holes slightly larger for them, cut off the extra, and used apoxie sculpt to bond them in place. FYI to everyone, shapeways "white, strong, and flexible" material is nylon and if you cut it with a dremel it will melt and gum up your cutting wheel. In order to prevent this you have to turn your RPM's as low as they will go, like 5

WOW!... I'm very very impressed Aron...

Awesome job... I would have thought its a different helmet from the mummy helmet last time...

Congratulations man!

cheers!

Thanks bud, its still no where close to the quality you can do :thumbsup

 

[mizuno hadouken]

Thanks Aaron!

Servo was around 150 oz/in at 6 volts. This might be strong enough to lift a urethane cast faceplate, but with all the bondo on mine it is far too heavy



I ordered Bimmer's Screw details from shapeways, so they are pretty much 3d printed bolts. I drilled holes slightly larger for them, cut off the extra, and used apoxie sculpt to bond them in place. FYI to everyone, shapeways "white, strong, and flexible" material is nylon and if you cut it with a dremel it will melt and gum up your cutting wheel. In order to prevent this you have to turn your RPM's as low as they will go, like 5



Thanks bud, its still no where close to the quality you can do :thumbsup