Another, yes another Rocketeer Jetpack build.

The hardware is not included. It’s not that hard to figure out what’s needed though. The tougher parts I actually printed as you already know.

The rods that connect the flaps to the back of the pack will NOT fit in a straight line. Impossible.

I will use a flexible rod instead. It will look fine I think. It hardly ever shows anyway. Will be sure to post pics once done. I believe in 2 weeks my pack will be complete!
 
Brilliant. Can't wait to see it!

Yea, it seems that the one real flaw in this pack design is that it adds some bulge on the lower back of the pack that doesn't exist on other molds. All things considered; it might even be easier to 3D print that lower part of the middle to replace it. But yea; it probably won't show much anyways so a flexible rod also works.

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Ok I want to document my painting process.

Silver paint is Krylon Shortcuts
Chrome paint. Comes in very small spray cans unfortunately. But can be had for $2.80 each after coupon at HobbyLobby.
The paint is not really chrome or mirror. It is shiny steel colored. It needs some work to make it look more real, details are below.

Sand surfaces with 400 grit, then 800 and up to 1500 for a smooth finish.

Likely you will need a coat of filler. Each tank takes about 1.5 cans of my spray filler of choice, Duplicolor automotive primer filler - the one with dark red cap. Pictures. Any automotive parts place carries it. Try Oreiley’s.

Spray each tank with 2 coats 15 minutes apart. That’s 1.5 cans for each tank if you do 2 coats.
Let dry for 24 hours.

Now wet sand down the primer filler with 800 grit. Everything should look smooth. Let dry for 2 hours or so.
If you feel like it still
Shows imperfections, use the 0.5 can left for another red coat and more sanding.

Next, this is the time to glue rivets if you need to.

Now apply a coat of gloss black primer. Cheap stuff from Home Depot is fine. I used Rustoleoum gloss black.
You only need two light coats 10 mins apart. That’s about 1/2 can for each tank. Let dry for 48 hours and never touch it or you will leave fingerprints.
After dried, if you see orange peel on the surfaces you can wet sand it off with 800-1000 grit. It will lose some gloss but should be ok. Better than an irregular surface for sure. The gloss of the paint was slightly relevant because we lay silver on top and helps give some shine after you buff the silver. Anyway, wait till all is dry a couple of hours if you did wet sand.

Moving on, time for silver/chrome paint. Apply one small can throughout the entire tank. Do it all in one coating. You should still see the black underneath after this first coat. Wait 10 mins and apply a second can throughout. It is important you do ONLY enough to cover the black fully. It may not take the entire second can. Usually a little more than half would get you there. DO NOT OVER APPLY the second coat. If it is laid too heavy you won’t have much luck getting the metal look in the next steps.

Ok, let dry the silver paint for 12 hours or so. I normally wait till next morning. You will then take a green scotch brite pad and run in ONE ORIENTATION along the length of the tank. You are creating small scratches throughout. In one direction only back and forth. Try to keep it really straight. You want to apply some pressure as you glide the pad with your palm. Don’t over do it though.

Ok the important part that makes it look more like metal... Take a quality car Cleaner Wax like Zymol cleaner wax - pictured. You will put a SMALL DOT of it on a cloth, then put a few touches of that dot on the surface of the tank, and then start spreading. You only need a small dot of this stuff or you will regret it. Work one area at a time. Spread evenly with strength and pressure. It will look a little cloudy. Then take another clean rag and buff off to a shine... you need to buff the cloudy areas with quite a bit of pressure.
Move to the next area of the tank and repeat. If done right it will start looking like metal and also may reveal some of the black beneath (very very slightly) which helps with the look.

You may also need to apply more scotch brite pad on top if the lines disappear. You can alternate between pad and wax until it looks right. Usually only 2 passes of each and you’re done.

This paint does not rub off easily so that’s a great thing. I tried many silver paints and they all rubbed off.

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Love this thread. I am awaiting my kit. Was wondering where you got your hardware from please, the braided cables. Cheers Tony

The braided lines for the engines are simply freezer water lines. They are slightly thinner than regular plumbing braided lines. Ask for the fridge lines!
 
Great advice on the brushed metal look.
You are absolutely right about not applying too much silver paint. We used a paint technique like that on Mars Attacks - spray on just enough to get the silver color, then stop. The silver paint skins over quickly to give you that shiny surface, but it traps wet paint underneath. The trapped paint can take days to dry out if you spray on too much.
God help you if you touch it before it dries!
 
Major update today!

I assembled all the main parts together. There was a custom 3D printed fitting I made to attach the bottom tail to the tanks. Then at the top I attached it together with a threaded rod and some bolts on the inside walls of the tank, basically sandwiching the center hull together. The bottom attachment keeps the center hull from moving up or down, if you are wondering about that.

As you can see I went ahead and designed and 3D printed a completely custom top radiator. The do3d version always bothered me. This one is pretty much a replica of the original and wow it fit perfectly first try! Even the little ridge fits and aligns at the tip of the radiator sides. [emoji33]. This custom radiator sits much higher than the do3d from this kit, the way it should be. It is also spot on with the screen version.
Obviously I need to paint that piece next (and last!)

There is also a custom bracket for the fan which I designed. That works wonders.

I am working on the electronics tonight.

Any comments welcome I hope I’m helping someone with all this.

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If you can find a +5v motor to attach that fan to.. I think the *"Valor"* kits have some +5v pads broken out to power it from.. (no control.. just on/off with the rest of the kit).. but should work.. I believe there is also a VIN pin broken out.. which should be a direct connection to battery pack/source

Today I completed the electronics. I added the Valor Replicas light and sound board as you all remember. I also attached a 5V fan motor...

I'm wondering if anyone else has this board AND decided to wire a fan to the 5V output on the board. I did, and it does work alright except that when the "shutdown sequence" audio plays (as you release the trigger) the audio does a slight hiccup and it sort of bothers me. If I remove the fan wire all is fine and dandy.

if you have this board AND a fan attached, please let me know how it works for you.
 
I chatted with you via email, but thought i'd add my thoughts here. While there is a 5V out on the board, it would seem the fan in causing some interference. It's possible the fan motor is causing some power feedback to the board. If possible, it might be safest to power the fan with its own power supply.
 
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