Another IM Mark VI build

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jnsbanman

Active Member
Hi Guys,

Woo hoo first post lol!

Anyways,

First off... Everyone's work here is amazing and gave me the idea to build my own Iron Man suit soooo... I am embarking on a one year build for my Mark VI build.

I am using Sharkheads files for the build. I must say wow these pep files have amazing detail for paper and glue.

I don't have pics of it yet but the face place is almost done as well.

Well on to the pics. Don't have much done yet but I am learning more with every fold I glue.
 

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jnsbanman

Active Member
I do have one question about sharkheads file... Does the faceplate sit flush with the top of the helmet where the 2 pieces meet around the "V" section and at the very top of the faceplate?

I've seen some pics where it looks flush and others where it doesn't. Could just be an optical illusion though.

And since this pep is put together in 3 separate pieces what is the best way to attach/align all 3 together to harden it?
 

aron42486

Well-Known Member
Shark's file is designed so that the faceplate is flush with that "tongue" part.

Use binder clips to hold the parts together while you resin the outside, or hotglue in areas you can't clip. Put your resin on in thin layers and brace the inside if you can. Make sure to do the ears separately or you will run into issues with warping like I had.

When you go to fiberglass/resin the inside you can use masking tape on the outside to secure the pieces. Do not fiberglass over the joints of 2 pieces or you will have a more difficult time cutting them apart later.

Make sure you do at least 2-3 layers of fiberglass again to prevent warping. And post pictures of your progress
 
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jnsbanman

Active Member
Ok thanks aron.

Could a person just hot glue the perimeter of the faceplate and joining lines of the jaw to the helmet, then slushcast with smoothcast 305 and cut apart with a dremel later?

The inside only needs to be strong enough to make a 3 piece mold from... or would it be better to cast it as one then cut out later? This one is only going to be the master. So I can recreate if necessary... like major mistakes when attaching hinges etc for the faceplate.
 

aron42486

Well-Known Member
To slushcast you would need the outside to be strong and firm or else your piece will deform. One or two layers of resin will not give you that. You can resin and fiberglass the outside and then slush the inside, but the interior will not give you full details like on the outside plus you would have a hell of a time getting the cast piece out of a fiberglass shell.

If you are wanting to slush cast I recommend building a full master then going the silicone glove+mother mold route. If you are just looking for a base to sculpt on you can fill the interior of the pep with melted clay then cut the paper off and finish your sculpt.

Otherwise you are still gonna have to do the full process that the rest of us are doing. Resin the outside, resin/glass the inside, bondo the outside, spot putty, hours upon hours of sanding, then get into your mold/casting process

Edit: Molding and casting is very expensive. If you are just doing that in case of mistakes I will tell you that you can fix just about any screw up with resin/FG and bondo. Read through my build, you can see where I goofed and I still think mine came out great. Not perfect, but still good
 
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jnsbanman

Active Member
I think I may have explained myself wrong... still new to the terminology. I intend on doing everything the same as what you described just using smooth on products vs fiberglass for building my master, then proceeding to build a silicone glove and mother mold.

Cost isnt too too much of a concern for me as I have a year before I need this totally ready.

Just read though your thread... very very nice work. I hope mine turns out as good. Would you mind sharing your hinge setup... I have searched what seems endlessly for hinge setups and downloaded some to scale hinges created by Zambana (sp?) I think it was. What was it your put into your pep for the hinge mount?

I was thinking if I can nail down the pivot points prior to hardening I could sink some chicago screws in and then cast them in place...

I was fortunate enough that sharkhead default scale fits nicely with some room for play to add foam and have room for the servo for the face plate.

Would anyone know how much smooth cast would be required roughly to cast a helmet?
 

STEALTH

Sr Member
Aron, you missed what he wanted to do. He just wants to strengthen the inside of his pep part via the slush cast method. Not pull a cast from his pepped part.

That's fine. It will work. I did the same thing and cut the faceplate off after.
 

jnsbanman

Active Member
any tips that may help since you have already pep'd this helmet? I am using a low temp hot glue. I find it much easier to use and get things lined up without gluing my fingers to the paper repeatedly. lol. almost seems like the hot glue makes the pep a little sturdier too.
 

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aron42486

Well-Known Member
As far as my hinge goes, I am using MightyJohn's Orbital Hinge system. He has requested that we do not post pictures of the hinge, so unfortunately I can't show you. Check this link if you haven't seen it yet: Orbital Hinge System

I will say that it is worth the $30 to purchase his guide. It is very well written and easy to do and so far has produced great results, though I still need to wire up my servo.

I would recommend mounting your posts after you have your hinge made. The mistake I made was mounting my posts first and then designing a hinge to fit them. It is by far easier to make a hinge and simply move your posts to fit it, otherwise you might have to rip them out later like me.

The hot glue is nice for attaching the paper together. Unfortunately I used it to also hold my separate pieces together so when I went to cut them apart, the hot glue melted on my cutting wheels and gummed them up pretty bad. Just FYI

To get a good pep you simply have to take your time and make sure you get things lined up as perfectly as possible.
 

jnsbanman

Active Member
Yes I have seen his hinge video. Looks good. Might look him up when I get that far. Going to try my idea first.

Good point on the hot glue. Maybe I will krazy glue the 3 pieces together.
 

jnsbanman

Active Member
Well here is the progress from last night... The jaw and faceplate are just held on with scotch tape for the time being to see if I could everything to line up nicely. Took a little tweaking but I got it to sit pretty nicely.
 

jnsbanman

Active Member
To those that have done this already,

Quick question about molding/casting... Let assume the following. 1 Pint of Rebound 25 is $30 and 1 pint of smooth cast 305 is $25. Would a pint of each be sufficient to make one jacket mold and cast say 2 additional helmets. Making the cost per helmet $27.50 + the cost release agent and mothermold materials (fiberglass or plasti paste)
 

aron42486

Well-Known Member
I'd say it's a toss up. I have heard some people say they have been able to mold and get one cast out of the trial sizes. I have heard more people say that you would need at least 2 trial kits.

It is more economical to go with the gallon sizes if you can afford it. I went to my local Smooth-On dealer last week and picked up gallon sizes of my materials. I am glad I did because since I am still learning I goofed up my first molds and first cast, so I had to redo them.

If I had gone with trial sizes I would have wasted them.

Edit: Your pep is looking good btw, keep it up :thumbsup
 

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aron42486

Well-Known Member
For Rebound 25 about $185 and for the Smooth-Cast products about $85. Check out their website for actual prices, the do vary between products but are close to the same.

I am using MoldStar 30. I was looking for a rubber that could be used in box molds and as brush on, and my dealer told me it can do everything that Rebound 25 can while being cheaper. It appears to have a slightly higher viscocity than Rebound 25 but still picks up amazing detail and it can be thickened with Thi-Vex to be brushable. I have only tried it in a box mold so far though.

If you can find a Smooth-On dealer in your area I'd say they would be able to recommend products to you. You could probably take your helmet in to them and ask if the could help you figure out if a trail size would cover it.
 
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jnsbanman

Active Member
Well no significant progress last night. Managed to get the faceplate and jaw glue into the helmet and got a couple of the ear pieces glued in so no pics today.

One question... What have you guys done with the teeth when you go to harden the inside of the helmet. They are kind of just free floating there. If you cover them with smooth cast or resin how would you go about cutting the face plate off properly? Looking for ideas thanks again!
 

aron42486

Well-Known Member
I hot glued mine to the faceplate when i fiberglassed, but ended up having to cutting them off. I feel there is no way to save them if you have to cut your faceplate off later. You could always try removing them now and resining them separate to add later.
 

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