ANOTHER Blade Runner Blaster- ARE YOU MAD??
- Thread starter the DOCTOR
- Start date
drusselmeyer
Master Member
Well, after you clean up the innaccuracies and "Coyle-isms" that are in the model, it should look pretty good.
Although, I do agree the magazine and housing should be completely replaced with accurate plastic ones.
Although, I do agree the magazine and housing should be completely replaced with accurate plastic ones.
Wayne R.
Well-Known Member
<div class='quotetop'>(Birdie @ Oct 5 2006, 02:02 PM) [snapback]1332493[/snapback]</div>
Yup.
[/b][/quote]
Cool. I guess the next question is: did yours 'flare' slightly behind the bolt? My fixer-upper's gap is a little wide and the smoother shape's lost. If so, how'd you fix it without the bolt binding slightly?
From the mention of the chamber release working OK, and the apparently clean lines at the back of the Steyr, I reckon there's been a few refinements made to the Italian Job over recent months.
Yup.
[/b][/quote]
Cool. I guess the next question is: did yours 'flare' slightly behind the bolt? My fixer-upper's gap is a little wide and the smoother shape's lost. If so, how'd you fix it without the bolt binding slightly?
From the mention of the chamber release working OK, and the apparently clean lines at the back of the Steyr, I reckon there's been a few refinements made to the Italian Job over recent months.
Wayne R.
Well-Known Member
Rich,
I'm not trying to claim back any moral high ground here, but I bought mine from someone who couldn't finish it, probably in no small part because of certain flaws you've outlined in the past.
I therefore got it at a discounted price, it was (compared to the unbuilt Sidkits on eBay) very reasonable. AND there were no worries about importing stuff past the Nazi gorillas in UK Customs.
Given the logistical & economical factors, I decided to buy the kit. Now, I'm trying to find out how best to correct the errors on the recast of your replicas -which I do believe are massively superior but unfortunately out of my price-range.
I can see where you're coming from, and I doubt I make the best case for the defence, but if you have a problem with members discussing Sidkit models on the site, maybe the best thing to do would be to contact the RPF Staff.
I'll go along with their decision, no problem.
I'm not trying to claim back any moral high ground here, but I bought mine from someone who couldn't finish it, probably in no small part because of certain flaws you've outlined in the past.
I therefore got it at a discounted price, it was (compared to the unbuilt Sidkits on eBay) very reasonable. AND there were no worries about importing stuff past the Nazi gorillas in UK Customs.
Given the logistical & economical factors, I decided to buy the kit. Now, I'm trying to find out how best to correct the errors on the recast of your replicas -which I do believe are massively superior but unfortunately out of my price-range.
I can see where you're coming from, and I doubt I make the best case for the defence, but if you have a problem with members discussing Sidkit models on the site, maybe the best thing to do would be to contact the RPF Staff.
I'll go along with their decision, no problem.
the DOCTOR
Sr Member
Wow. Thanks Guys. yes I am a newbie, well, I've been a member for six months, I just haven't had anything to show.
Quick answer to the restraining bolt question, its the mushroom head allen screw behind the slide handle, as seen here:
I removed the moulded in screw, and drilled through into the bolts end cap, moved the bolt back the required amount (around 15mm), drilled again,and joined up the two holes with a file; works like a charm.
I also removed and replaced the two moulded in machine screws either side of the barrell, just for completeness sake.
The soldered parts are the Steyer blanking plate, as I don't trust epoxy, and the modified sliding probe, which is soldered onto a length of K&S and the bolt.
As to where you can find it, c'mon. Type SIDKIT into Google. :lol
And thanks for the compliment Rich. I like your blaster a heckova lot, I just can't afford one.
By the way, I've got the resin MIM blaster, and I've tried out mixing up the resin Steyer mag with the metal blaster, but I just like the whole metal thing, it just looks and feels right.
Quick answer to the restraining bolt question, its the mushroom head allen screw behind the slide handle, as seen here:
I removed the moulded in screw, and drilled through into the bolts end cap, moved the bolt back the required amount (around 15mm), drilled again,and joined up the two holes with a file; works like a charm.
I also removed and replaced the two moulded in machine screws either side of the barrell, just for completeness sake.
The soldered parts are the Steyer blanking plate, as I don't trust epoxy, and the modified sliding probe, which is soldered onto a length of K&S and the bolt.
As to where you can find it, c'mon. Type SIDKIT into Google. :lol
And thanks for the compliment Rich. I like your blaster a heckova lot, I just can't afford one.
By the way, I've got the resin MIM blaster, and I've tried out mixing up the resin Steyer mag with the metal blaster, but I just like the whole metal thing, it just looks and feels right.
Darkknight0667
Sr Member
<div class='quotetop'>(racprops @ Oct 5 2006, 02:55 PM) [snapback]1332629[/snapback]</div>
At this point, Rich, you've got two choices: continue to scream and complain about this guy, or find a way to undercut him and bring the business back to you.
If you read the posts from the people that have bought from this guy, it's almost universal that they'd like to buy one from you, but can't swing the $1,000 price tag for one of your build ups. There must be some way to offer your product at a price point that will make people come to you, instead of looking elsewhere. Find that way, and SidKit becomes a moot point.
At this point, Rich, you've got two choices: continue to scream and complain about this guy, or find a way to undercut him and bring the business back to you.
If you read the posts from the people that have bought from this guy, it's almost universal that they'd like to buy one from you, but can't swing the $1,000 price tag for one of your build ups. There must be some way to offer your product at a price point that will make people come to you, instead of looking elsewhere. Find that way, and SidKit becomes a moot point.
Might I also add that the second that you write a HOW TO article on the internet (or even publish a recipe on how you made your own personal masterpiece) people are going to TAKE that information and PROFIT off of it. Is it right? Is it moral? The only thing everyone will agree on is that it WILL happen, as this is human nature to gather information from anywhere they possibly can. Some people apparently see this as stealing, but others see it as research - know what I mean?
So it's not especially shocking that by making the source parts on a BR gun public knowledge, people can buy the same things that you did when you and Phil made the C&S, and make something almost identical - doesn't necessarily make them a flat-out recaster does it? Isn't that what Harford did? Bought a couple of guns and got to work? So they used your pics - they're on the internet - i.e. a public stage.
And for the record - I'm not passing judgement here - I'm just pointing out that once info becomes public, it gets used and people immediately try to make money.
So it's not especially shocking that by making the source parts on a BR gun public knowledge, people can buy the same things that you did when you and Phil made the C&S, and make something almost identical - doesn't necessarily make them a flat-out recaster does it? Isn't that what Harford did? Bought a couple of guns and got to work? So they used your pics - they're on the internet - i.e. a public stage.
And for the record - I'm not passing judgement here - I'm just pointing out that once info becomes public, it gets used and people immediately try to make money.
Noeland
Master Member
I agree with Jason's points very sincerely. I understand Rich's need to say "hey, look what I did." so people will know what he did (and people do) and in doing so he opens the doors for people to profit from his work in many different ways. I guess there has to be a level of acceptance that you are opening that door.
Also, I'm not sure members have been satisfied or possibly fully understood your explanations of recasting Rich. Better or worse, your posts can be confusing some times. I don't mean that as a put down. Certinaly plenty of folks who knows exactly what you mean too.
For me, I swore off sidkit long ago because I came to my own conclusion that he recast you. I didn't need for you to tell me he did, or point it out. The trigger guard especially, for me, was the biggest sign that Sidkit really didn't know the gun on his own merit. Using ONLY Rich's research and not doing any of your own will lead to problems like this.
I still can't figure why he used this trigger guard, quite frankly I never cared for the forward bend to dip a little, asthetically speaking.
Sidkit obviusly has the ability to create his own masters though, I'd like to see him create his own blaster from the ground up that has personal stylistic touches. I think he could actually make somehting nice. As I feel Rich could do as well, but his thing is being as accurate as possible to the screen. Again, understandable.
And now that I am WAY WAY off topic, I'd just liek to add again how much I dig that unpainted finish. Doc, how do you think it would look polished up? Can you polich led based metals??
Also, I'm not sure members have been satisfied or possibly fully understood your explanations of recasting Rich. Better or worse, your posts can be confusing some times. I don't mean that as a put down. Certinaly plenty of folks who knows exactly what you mean too.
For me, I swore off sidkit long ago because I came to my own conclusion that he recast you. I didn't need for you to tell me he did, or point it out. The trigger guard especially, for me, was the biggest sign that Sidkit really didn't know the gun on his own merit. Using ONLY Rich's research and not doing any of your own will lead to problems like this.
I still can't figure why he used this trigger guard, quite frankly I never cared for the forward bend to dip a little, asthetically speaking.
Sidkit obviusly has the ability to create his own masters though, I'd like to see him create his own blaster from the ground up that has personal stylistic touches. I think he could actually make somehting nice. As I feel Rich could do as well, but his thing is being as accurate as possible to the screen. Again, understandable.
And now that I am WAY WAY off topic, I'd just liek to add again how much I dig that unpainted finish. Doc, how do you think it would look polished up? Can you polich led based metals??
the DOCTOR
Sr Member
Ah, back on topic. I don't know what the metal used to cast this is, but there is a tutorial on the Sidkit site on polishing it, and it does polish up nicely: take it down to a 600 grade finish, then a polishing head in a dremel, with a small amount of metal polish.
Pic to show a polished bit:
I doubt that it is a lead based metal, as lead based casting metals have been banned in the European Union for quite some years now, also the metal doesn't oxidise like most lead based white metal.
Pic to show a polished bit:
I doubt that it is a lead based metal, as lead based casting metals have been banned in the European Union for quite some years now, also the metal doesn't oxidise like most lead based white metal.
the DOCTOR
Sr Member
<div class='quotetop'>(Noeland @ Oct 5 2006, 11:33 PM) [snapback]1332721[/snapback]</div>
It's an option, I might just give it a polish and let time do the weathering, but I'll probably black the bits that were plastic on the original, and try and use a tinted clear finish for the metal parts, to try and replicate the rubbed off bluing.
I'll show you when I do whatever I do.
It's an option, I might just give it a polish and let time do the weathering, but I'll probably black the bits that were plastic on the original, and try and use a tinted clear finish for the metal parts, to try and replicate the rubbed off bluing.
I'll show you when I do whatever I do.
