ANH-Star Destroyer

Ktaylor

Sr Member
Apologies for asking this in a different build thread mate, but I’m just wondering what happened with your total rebuild of the Deago MF ? Did you end up installing those incredibly insane lights for it’s engine ? Where can I find pics of that beautiful build ? This new build is a great resource too, thanks for sharing.

Ged
Only pics I have up for it are in the old build thread. Yeah I have all the lights still but I need to install them. I got all the archive X paints a while back to paint it, gonna try to get to that end of this year:p

 

Ktaylor

Sr Member
Something else that is important to understand about the geometry of this ship is that they built it to have a bit of forced perspective in the model, so that when they shot it coming towards the camera it looks really huge! So if you look at the middle trench from a side view of the ship its actually smaller at the back and larger at the front. My first thought was that the trench wall was just make taller in the front than the back, but its not, its a consistent 1" all the way down the side of the ship, the illusion comes from making the trench walls deeper in the back than the front, which allows the top and bottom hull sheets to hang over the edge further and create the tapering effect.

Here is an exaggerated sketch to show what I mean. The inner triangle is the side walls and the red is the top/bottom hull sheets.

You can see the effect in the final model in these pics, the side shot makes it pretty clear, but even in the 3/4 front shot you can see the effect as the image was clearly taken with a longer lens (loosk to be somewhere around 75-100mmish which minimizes the amount of perspective you would normally see in a shorter 10-40mm lens. But you can clearly see how pronounced the perspective of the side trench is even with the rest of the ship relatively flattened out. by the long lens used to take this photo.

You can kind of see it in the bulid pic from ILM if you know what you are looking for, it's not a huge amount either, i'll measure mine later and post back here the actual difference.
 

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Ktaylor

Sr Member
Earlier in this thread I posted some tests comparing Tamiya Insignia white (AS-20) to ArchiveX reefer white, they seemed pretty close…until I actually shot them side by side- ewww, very different colors…
Left IW, Right RW
Top is over white and bottom is over black…

Guess I’m back to trying to source 20 gallons of reefer white haha
 

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ganesha7

New Member
Earlier in this thread I posted some tests comparing Tamiya Insignia white (AS-20) to ArchiveX reefer white, they seemed pretty close…until I actually shot them side by side- ewww, very different colors…
Left IW, Right RW
Top is over white and bottom is over black…

Guess I’m back to trying to source 20 gallons of reefer white haha
That's sooo useful information.
Thanks for the comparison pic!
 

Bjorn

Well-Known Member
This may be helpful based on t2sides SS 5' Falcon.


Though I'm not really sure how different the Star Destroyer is to the base coat of the Falcon.
Obviously the subsequent weathering and washes dirty down the falcon to shades of grey.
 

Flintlock

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Something else that is important to understand about the geometry of this ship is that they built it to have a bit of forced perspective in the model, so that when they shot it coming towards the camera it looks really huge! So if you look at the middle trench from a side view of the ship its actually smaller at the back and larger at the front. My first thought was that the trench wall was just make taller in the front than the back, but its not, its a consistent 1" all the way down the side of the ship, the illusion comes from making the trench walls deeper in the back than the front, which allows the top and bottom hull sheets to hang over the edge further and create the tapering effect.

Here is an exaggerated sketch to show what I mean. The inner triangle is the side walls and the red is the top/bottom hull sheets.

You can see the effect in the final model in these pics, the side shot makes it pretty clear, but even in the 3/4 front shot you can see the effect as the image was clearly taken with a longer lens (loosk to be somewhere around 75-100mmish which minimizes the amount of perspective you would normally see in a shorter 10-40mm lens. But you can clearly see how pronounced the perspective of the side trench is even with the rest of the ship relatively flattened out. by the long lens used to take this photo.

You can kind of see it in the bulid pic from ILM if you know what you are looking for, it's not a huge amount either, i'll measure mine later and post back here the actual difference.
Absolutely!
 

Ktaylor

Sr Member
Think I have the color sorted out. Was able to get a local paint chain to color match a swatch of reefer white in an acrylic matte finish. It’s super close, I’m pretty pleased with the result, thinned down it shoots pretty nice through the brush, gonna paint a few more test pieces with it to be sure but so far it’s promising! The marched color is on the top resin parts cast I’m holding.
AX reefer white on the bottom side trench wall.
A did one with doors down and one with doors up to let some sun in and get some different lighting scenarios.
 

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Ktaylor

Sr Member
So I built out this Legg’s shell with the plan to mold and cast the engine bells in resin. BUT- I got a hold of this 3D resin printer and just modeled and printed them out! I mean- pffft resin is resin right?!! Plus I was able to design a pedestal that is the same diameter as my acrylic engine tubes so they fit in nice and sung- and straight!
 

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ganesha7

New Member
So I built out this Legg’s shell with the plan to mold and cast the engine bells in resin. BUT- I got a hold of this 3D resin printer and just modeled and printed them out! I mean- pffft resin is resin right?!! Plus I was able to design a pedestal that is the same diameter as my acrylic engine tubes so they fit in nice and sung- and straight!
Resin is Resin, indeed.
Plus, with 3D printing you avoid potential shrinkage issues.
Looking great!
 

Ktaylor

Sr Member
I decided to re print these with the rings attached to the end, didn’t want to fuss with trying to build those out as they are really thin and get the to line up perfectly with inner surface of those T strips. The base cylinders are built out of acyclovir tubing with styrene strips glued around them to create the relief plating. I was able to print a disk on the base of the engine bells that snuggly fit inside the tubes perfect, so it’s keeps them lined up in the tubes really nice and straight. Worked out really well. I’ll glue the outer T strips and other little panels and end detail flaps on later.
 

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Ktaylor

Sr Member
I scratch built in the exterior T strips and little chips that connect them at the top to keep the outer surfaces more built looking and not so perfectly computer printed which to me is the magic of these old studio models. I’m being very conscious about that as I now decide what to print vs build. I’m thinking you need to blend the 2 together like this to get the benefits of both. At least that is where my brain is at as of today! The journey continues :p
I’d be curious to hear others thoughts on this - bad or good! I think that dialogue and thought melding is important!
 

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3DImpact

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Looking very nice! I like (and use myself) this same 'composite' technique, blending printed parts with donor-greeblie- and styrene-detailed additions to make it pop.

Loving your build and the documentation so far - thanks for sharing!

Dan
 

Bjorn

Well-Known Member
Ktaylor, I think that is a great approach to using both new and original techniques to have the benefits of both worlds.
I think that's possibly where a lot of the 3D kits with fully complete detailed assemblies fail to impress as much as something cobbled together.

Your parts are looking fantastic!
 

bwayne64

Sr Member
I scratch built in the exterior T strips and little chips that connect them at the top to keep the outer surfaces more built looking and not so perfectly computer printed which to me is the magic of these old studio models. I’m being very conscious about that as I now decide what to print vs build. I’m thinking you need to blend the 2 together like this to get the benefits of both. At least that is where my brain is at as of today! The journey continues :p
I’d be curious to hear others thoughts on this - bad or good! I think that dialogue and thought melding is important!
I'd be curious as to the strength and heat resistance of cast resin and printed. I want to get a resin printer myself. I've only used my Ender 3. And I know from personal experience that pla parts will deform in a hot car. Switching to abs because of that. I don't know how you'd test the strength difference. But if it can support its own weight and take any heat from lights, I say goody. Led lights are bright enough and cool, so no problem there. The only other difference would be cost. Silicone and resin ain't cheap, so printed parts may win that issue too. No vacuum pumps and pressure pots. I'm talking myself into that Elegoo Saturn S , LOL..
 

gedmac66

Sr Member
You’re going great guns Kris !. My 0.02 worth regarding your last post, if the folks at ILM had the tech that we’re fortunate enough to have today, then they’d have been all over ( and then some ) utilising/modifying and exploiting it for results only they could have imagined.
What you’re trying to achieve is terrific, and what you’v shared so far is much appreciated.
 

Ktaylor

Sr Member
I'd be curious as to the strength and heat resistance of cast resin and printed. I want to get a resin printer myself. I've only used my Ender 3. And I know from personal experience that pla parts will deform in a hot car. Switching to abs because of that. I don't know how you'd test the strength difference. But if it can support its own weight and take any heat from lights, I say goody. Led lights are bright enough and cool, so no problem there. The only other difference would be cost. Silicone and resin ain't cheap, so printed parts may win that issue too. No vacuum pumps and pressure pots. I'm talking myself into that Elegoo Saturn S , LOL..
Yeah I’m not sure, I know smooth on makes a casing resin that can withstand pretty high temps. But yeah I’ll be using LED so I didn’t really look into much more. There is some “tough” resin I’m about to buy and print with, seems like it really helps with thin parts so they don’t break. This stuff I have now is really strong once cured, honesty it snaps and breaks with the same feel as my smooth on casting resin.
 
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