AMT Anakins Podracer

Hello Josh,
My opinion is that it looks perfect, the way you have the air guides positioned.But I would paint some conduit , wires in different colors, such as red blues and yellows. This would break up the monotone look of mostly silver , and this would make everything more interesting. But not sure if this look was done in the movie. So it depends on what you like !But it's look great. And for the pilots 3dfalcon has snow speeder pilots for the old Mpc/ Amt kit or you may look into aftermarket 1/32 scale WW 2 pilots !

Take care
Duaine

I just watch Boylei Hobby Time build of Anakin's podracer, Iove what he did for the energy binders .I plan to do that to mine !

I think , that for the base I would use baking soda as it has a granulated texture or some product of that nature!

Thanks Duaine!

I'll post some pictures when I'm home tonight but the pipes on the engines on the studio model are sort of metal tones, like gold zinc and green oxide, some coppery tones for wires. I have done my best to copy most of this but in a general photo doesnt come across well. I'll try for some close ups.

ill have to watch that video on the power couplings. Still not 100% what to do here yet. The images in the film, theyre very thin. I found I can buy neon pink fishing line so may be an option. Still need to light this with the factory power coupling to see if it will glow.

I will build a new base, probably go the Tatooine route and add some outcrops, rocks etc.
I like the idea of having the engines in different configurations. I figure that is how it turns?
Thanks bud. Yeah it's growing on me!
I assumed the same about the turning but watching the film find it hard to see a turning shot that shows this. There is definetely a shot of the pod going straight and as the engines wander up and down the blades open and close from side to side like theyre stabalising the height or speed to keep them parallel?


Cheers,
Josh
 
Boyle use different colors flexible and thin , he calls they LED noodles , and uses a very small circuit board. He says where he get it from! His use of LED and circuit is great .have you seen his X- wing build , where he makes a replica of the targeting computer screen and even lights it up.Not the screen on the console but the little targeting computer.

Take care
Duaine
 
Boyle use different colors flexible and thin , he calls they LED noodles , and uses a very small circuit board. He says where he get it from! His use of LED and circuit is great .have you seen his X- wing build , where he makes a replica of the targeting computer screen and even lights it up.Not the screen on the console but the little targeting computer.

Take care
Duaine

Hi Duaine,

I watched some of his Anakin's pod build, he is a very different model builder to me hahaha. I like to paint things apart as much as possible. all together as he did seems crazy! but he pulled it off so good for him.

I really love the effect of the LED filaments but they're quite large, if only they were like 1mm thick they would be perfect. that is the trade off I suppose. I'll have to find where he does the targeting computer. Will be handy information for the day I finally build a large scale Xwing. I've really liked keeping to the 1/72ish range and want to achieve a few more builds there.

Come to that does anyone do a 1/72ish N1 starfighter? or is it only the 1/43?

As promised Duaine here is a couple of borrowed photos of the Studio models engines. Mostly metallic pipes, a number of coloured dots around it.

Cheers,
Josh



 
Come to that does anyone do a 1/72ish N1 starfighter? or is it only the 1/43?

Besides the 1/72 Fine Molds one mentioned above there are a few alternatives, although not 1/72, they may be close enough for your purposes

There is the roughly 1/100 ish Revell one (search for Revell "Naboo" N-1 starfighter, not the Mandolrian one). That is on the small side for 1/72

On the other side is the roughly 1/56 ish Jazwares Micro Galaxy one which I think might look better with 1/72 stuff

Then there is also the Action Fleet Naboo Starfighter which is around 1/72, but is a bit oddly proportioned and probably needs the tail extended (it is also a bit rubbery
 
Fine Molds made a 1/72 N1 back in 2012, but they're very hard to find now: Naboo Starfighter, Fine Molds SW-15 (2012)

SB
Thanks,
Yeah it seems you're right, very hard to find now. I'll have to keep my ear to the ground. Images I see show it to be a nice kit!

Besides the 1/72 Fine Molds one mentioned above there are a few alternatives, although not 1/72, they may be close enough for your purposes

There is the roughly 1/100 ish Revell one (search for Revell "Naboo" N-1 starfighter, not the Mandolrian one). That is on the small side for 1/72

On the other side is the roughly 1/56 ish Jazwares Micro Galaxy one which I think might look better with 1/72 stuff

Then there is also the Action Fleet Naboo Starfighter which is around 1/72, but is a bit oddly proportioned and probably needs the tail extended (it is also a bit rubbery

1/56 Jazwares would be better sized than the 1/43 AMT I have for sure.

It's funny though regarding the AMT kit, you dont realise how small an N1 actually is, it was the pilot size that threw me off when looking at the pieces and realised it was a larger scale. At 1/100 the Revell must really be quite tiny.

I have one of those Action Fleet Naboo Starfighters here somewhere, I remember the rubbery tail and engine extensions. But I suspect you're correct regarding the odd proportions.

Cheers,
Josh
 
Yeah it seems you're right, very hard to find now. I'll have to keep my ear to the ground. Images I see show it to be a nice kit!

It is a beautiful kit for sure
I actually was not really a fan of the design too much until I built the Fine Molds one
It definitely gave me a new appreciation for it seeing it in person. It even just looks like a fast hot rod when just sitting there
 
Hi everyone,

Starting off today I wanted to share a fault in the assembly instructions.
The engine part 32 R/L is shown as being used 3 times. There are only two part 32s. There seems to have been an error and a part 31 labeled as a part 32. The two part 32s should go on the top of the engine.
(edit: the ticks/crosses are where I have marked off the pieces as I have fitted them)


Sorry, these pics got flipped and it has cut out the sides, the second photo in the upper right corner shows the two part 32s.


Now that is out the way, I have been working on the attachment hoses. I assembled the hose mechanism on the pod and painted it in Alclad Dark Aluminium.
The kit has an odd attachment for the hoses, it has like eyelets that go around the end of a connector. The hose should connect to the connector but on the right angle extension, not the outside.



Now on the full size prototype, the hose attaches directly to the connector. However, on the studio model there is a brass rod joining the hose to the connector. Because I am referencing the studio model for this build I wanted to somewhat copy that. It is not exact but gets the point across.




Out of some brass rod and pipe I made 2 pieces, cut the eyelets of the hose and fed it into the pipe.



Then on the other end fitted the hose connector.


A bit of paint


And sorry for the dark shot but on the pod.


The connector is unglued and is a press fit into both the pod body and brass extension which means I can turn and swivel the hose somewhat plus it is removable, which will be handy until a base is created.

All in all, a fun afternoon.

Cheers,
Josh
 
Oh yeah, that is a definite improvement in both looks as well as functionality/strength for that connection

I am going to have to remember that one. What size tubing did you use?

Also, good catch on the instructions error
 
Oh yeah, that is a definite improvement in both looks as well as functionality/strength for that connection

I am going to have to remember that one. What size tubing did you use?

Also, good catch on the instructions error

The rod is 3mm and the tube is 3.5mm OD.

The tube I have is a bit smaller than 3mm ID so I have tapered the rod a bit then given a tap with a hammer to push them together. I have drilled the tube out in the past but this method worked well. I cut the tube sections too long intially so they would be easier to work with and I ground them down after the rod and tube assembly was together.

I see brass tube on Ebay with a 3.5mm OD and a 3mm ID.

Cheers,
Josh
 
This is becoming a bit harder to work on now with the air guides installed so I have grabbed some board and done a basic setup. This morning before leaving for work, I started carving and gluing some foam for a display. I hope to have a bit of an outcrop behind the Pod that I will mount it to so you won't have an obnoxious support under it. The tubes under the engines I cannot do much about but will eventually paint them sand coloured perhaps so they blend in a bit more.

This is all just basically sitting in place as I feel out the concept of it all and show the direction it's headed.

I need to take photos yet, but the lighted power coupling seems a bit of a fail. the lights are just too intense so close to the body and cause the coupling holder to glow, even through all that paint. The coupling itself lights at the ends but not the whole way through, I don't think the cast is pure enough to allow the light to travel through. The lit up engines I'm really happy with though.

Cheers,
Josh
 
You can try and get some acrylic rod or something to that nature to support the engines. That's what I plan on using for any future flight mode builds.

Take care
Duaine
 
Josh , I just watch a video on YouTube called ( Magetically levitating Eldar jetbike and Wave Serpent). It presents great idea's to display models floating magnetically . Very cool!

Take care
Duaine
 
You can buy the electromagnetic levitating device on Amazon.
Thanks Duaine,

This is quite cool!
Reading a bit, things to note, holds up to 500 grams. Can only use 1 per base supposedly so in my case you could float a pod but not the engines. I dont think you would get thise magnets in the engine anyway, atleast at this scale.
The other stipulations would be in the case of the pod, needs to float at the correct height.
Also the video mentioned using 4 normal magnets in the base to stop it spinning. I would like to know how he installed that.

All that being said, I will probably stick to a simple bit of acrylic rod out of the scenery to hold this pod, BUT, I am really curious to explore this further for future builds. I found the levitating devices on Amazon as you said. I think around $80 Australian. Not that expensive in the big scheme of things. It may well be something I pick one up and have a play with.

Trying to think of other Star Wars themed vehicles this would work for? Speeder bike? A landspeeder would be cool.
The larger snowspeeder models would be great for this . Any of the ships you could levitate in a diorama but would need to be bigger I think than 1/72, It may levitate something like the 1/72 Falcon though.

Cheers,
Josh
 
I thought I would put up a post today. I have the day off to finalise preparations, we're getting hit by a cyclone tomorrow here in Brisbane and all unsure on how much damage will ensure, will we have power etc so model building yet alone posting may be effected for a bit.

I have been working on the diorama and did some more painting this morning. It's understandably a bit wet here so couldn't get outside pics.
My basic build process on this has been the foam core which I coated in a mix of plaster with a good squirt of PVA glue to give a good shell. I've used a largish brush to help pull heavy brush strokes in the wet plaster to give that layered rock look and then stippled some areas for texture.
I airbrushed multiple colours around, oxides, beiges, yellows, reduced black, then gave the rocks formations a good black wash to tie it all together.
The sand area at this stage is coloured plaster that has been somewhat glued in place then a light airbrushing over the top.
This entire painting process has been fun but somewhat difficult to obtain some level of realism. As anything, parts I'm happy with, parts I'm not but it isn't too bad overall. Grey stone is easy to mimic but this sandy coloured stuff I found much harder, and the colour of sand is also very difficult to obtain as it is not uniform, so you can't just paint everything a 'sand' tone.

Anyway, see what you guys think.
Cheers,
Josh



 
Back
Top