Aliens Facehugger build questions

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dropshipbob

Sr Member
I built one of these years ago and I'm thinking of trying some new methods on a current second build, would these work?

1-I'm thinking of inserting a metal rod into the tail and filling it with sand to keep the vinyl from "buckling" when it's bent.

2-If I seal the whole thing with future floor polish, will that make it water proof?
 

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dropshipbob

Sr Member
Well, I appreciate SOMEONE replying!:D

But seriously, I thought these questions were so easy I'd be hit with replies from all directions.
 

division 6

Master Member
Not sure the whole sand thing would work aside from making it heavy.
For standard kits many folks fill in legs with plastic bags to keep them from warping over time, don't know it it would work in this case.

I've only used Future on canopies so can't help you on that one.
 

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dropshipbob

Sr Member
The sand making it heavy would probably work in my favor. I intend to place this in my stasis tube filled with water, the sand/weight would help keep it from floating to the top.

As for the Future turning yellow, that might not show on a facehugger due to it's fleshy color...but the cracking....yeah, that wouldn't be such a great thing.
 

bwayne64

Well-Known Member
I would use a flexible foam with the wire down the center. Here's a link to the foam. I have the vinyl face hugger myself , and will probably go this route myself.

http://www.smooth-on.com/Rigid-and-Flexible/c10/index.html

I'd use the flexible version of course, not the rigid, unless you just want to pose it once.

Where did you get the tube if you already have one, and did you have to sell your car to buy it ;) I looked for large plexi tube, but couldn't afford it on my budget, cheers,

Joe
 

Pro Mod

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
If you’re going to place it in water I would have thought an enamel / solvent type lacquer would be more durable than a product which is water based.
Are you going to treat the water with a chemical to reduce the chance of bacteria growth? If so, depending what you use may also have an effect on the paint.
Probably worth trying a sample before risking your hard work.
 

dropshipbob

Sr Member
I would use a flexible foam with the wire down the center. Here's a link to the foam. I have the vinyl face hugger myself , and will probably go this route myself.

http://www.smooth-on.com/Rigid-and-Flexible/c10/index.html

I'd use the flexible version of course, not the rigid, unless you just want to pose it once.

Where did you get the tube if you already have one, and did you have to sell your car to buy it ;) I looked for large plexi tube, but couldn't afford it on my budget, cheers,

Joe
There was what used to be called a "group purchase" on here. That's where a bunch of people get together and buy multiples of a product for a project. One such group buy was for parts for stasis tubes. Someone on here managed to get the right measurements and sent them to a company that could produce them, one of the parts was a clear tube that was sealed on one end. Thanks to another member we also got resin copies of the other parts that were needed so in the end, we had a stasis tube in kit form that was water tight and VERY screen accurate.

If you’re going to place it in water I would have thought an enamel / solvent type lacquer would be more durable than a product which is water based.
Are you going to treat the water with a chemical to reduce the chance of bacteria growth? If so, depending what you use may also have an effect on the paint.
Probably worth trying a sample before risking your hard work.
I had a facehugger in my water filled stasis tube once years ago and it did very well. There wasn't much I could do in the way of treating the water, although I did use distilled water to fill the tube. Algae did manage to grow in the water after a few years, but I felt this actually worked in my favor to highten the "alien lifeform" factor. The one prpblem I ran into was I had used Envirotex clear resin to coat the hugger to make it waterproof, but I missed a few spots. The water got into those areas and deformed the paint, making it bubble and lift. I went over the whole thing at least three times yet I still manages to miss some areas. I guess if I do that again, I'll have to go over it four or five times to be sure.
 

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Clutch

Master Member
If you’re going to place it in water I would have thought an enamel / solvent type lacquer would be more durable than a product which is water based.
I'd be careful going this route unless you know the paint will totally shield the vinyl from the enamel. Enamel paint will leech out oils in the vinyl and you could end up with a sticky mess. I would seal it with an acrylic sealer first, which may be all you need in the first place.
 

division 6

Master Member
Many garage kit folks us a lacquer based primer.
Couple coats then let sit a few days to a week before painting.
 

Pro Mod

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Clutch, I didn't know there would be a reaction - always nice to learn something new!
Dropshipbob, if you wanted to, treating the water isn't difficult or expensive to do.
I've produced a number of commercial water features over the years and have used a powder additive which keeps the water clean for a couple of months before it needs changing, and which we buy from an aquatics supplier.
 

dropshipbob

Sr Member
I shied away from treating the water because I didn't know what that would do to the finish on the facehugger or to the plastic of the tube.
 

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