Alessandra's ANH, ESB, and ROTJ Luke Skywalker Lightsabers

[alessandra]

So I used the search function and found a few people who are selling finished or blank Rylo ROTJ sabers and PM'd them, but in case they're already gone or don't pan out - does anyone else know of where I can find one (blank or finished), or have one that they are trying to sell?

EDIT: I found and bought a finished Rylo saber! Yay! My set of Luke sabers will soon be complete - ANH -> ESB -> ROTJ.

I kind of figure since I have the ANH and ESB versions and since I just got an Exactra 20, I might as well go all out. I'll post pictures as soon as my correct D-ring and bubblestrip get here and I get them installed (but it might be a week or two).

I also have a really rusted Graflex clamp that I know is going to turn into a RussRep Obi-Wan at some point.

I'm not really sure where to start with the Vader - I'm not likely to find or pay for a real MPP, but I also don't want to use a Parks replica...

 

[alessandra]

Okay, I was sort of bored, so here's where I'm at now.

So in the ANH saber at the moment is the pressure-cast replica bubblestrip from Rebelscum, but I have an Exactra 20 in the mail. Still figuring out the D-ring for the ANH one, I have like three versions also in the mail. It's been like Christmas every day for the past three weeks. Well...not every day, but for several. :lol

The ESB saber still has the Blast-Tech clampcard in it, but I have a Slothfurnace card waiting to be cut down, which I'm pretty happy with.

In the back you can see the rusted Graflex clamp I mentioned in my earlier post, that's just waiting to become part of an Obi-Wan saber, and then an extra real Graflex clamp and two replica clamps.

Does anyone have any extra real Graflex red buttons or proper (tip/ring/sleeve) sync pins they're willing to sell? My ESB saber has one real button and one replica, and it's pins aren't right. I'll probably just grab a 2-cell off of eBay at some point if I have to, but I figure if someone here has some sitting around they don't need it might be cheaper and allow someone else pick up the 2-cell.

 

[spidersolo]

The sabers look great!
I've learned alot from this thread.
Thanks for the details in your post.

 

[alessandra]

Thanks spidersolo!

Alright, with this project nearing completion, I thought I'd compile a summary of the accurateness/inaccuracies of each of my sabers (ANH and ESB), at least from my understanding. More experienced saber-folk, feel free to correct me!

ANH Luke Saber - Accurateness

• Real 3-cell Graflex flash in excellent shape, all bits and pieces intact.
• Has patent no. on the end of the back-end.
• Will soon have 7-bubble strip from a real Exactra 20 calculator

ANH Luke Saber - Inaccuracies

• D-ring is not quite the right shape, but I've decided I'm fine with it for now.
• D-ring held on with a hex screw, not a rivet.
• Grips are made of rubber, not hard plastic cabinet track.

This is the one saber I feel like I could take all the way to like 99% accurate between some GINO grips, riveting the D-ring on, and tracking down a slightly rounder D-ring.

ESB Luke Saber - Accurateness

• Made from a real 2-cell Graflex flash in excellent shape.

ESB Luke Saber - Inaccuracies

• 3-cell back-end is a replica from Parks, though it looks really good and fits in fine with the rest of the saber, but doesn't have patent no. on the end.
• Using hex screws and not phillips-head screws on the ends of the grip.
• Grips are made of rubber, not hard plastic cabinet track.
• Bottom red button is a replica button.
• Sync pins are not the tip/ring/sleeve configuration but rather just straight posts.
• Kobold D-ring is a replica and not held on with rivets, but hex screws.
• Beer tab is still there, but I'm keeping it.

I'd really like to get a second real red knob and the proper sync pins. The rest I'm not going to worry about.

I did just close the deal on a Rylo ROTJ saber from the Junkyard, so I'm waiting for that to come now - any thoughts on the accurateness? From what I've read, Rylo did a fantastic job and it's pretty much one of the best out there, but I haven't researched the ROTJ saber nearly as much as the other two.

 

[James Kenobi 1138]

The rebelscum bubble strip is cast from my original, so I feel like a little bit of me is in your saber.

Looks like you're off to a great start. I love the Graflex sabers.

 

[parfaitelumiere]

You'r good bout the first sabers!
what you could do is Two - in one,with the graflex,you already have all good elements:

-same front,extra real red button to change for ESB version,and it's ok for the front.
-same clamp,just bubble strip or board,depending on version
-real graflex for the ANH and replica for the ESB version

I sold my graflex to a friend,and this is what he wants to do^^

but maybe you want to display all 3 sabers together,collecting them as movie props...

I'm more thinking about collecting items as they would be real items,so,ani,and luke have the same saber in ep III, IV and V
I'm thinking about making my "anakin-luke" lightsaber
because it's necessary the same saber in ep III, IV and V,I will make a mix between all versions.
It will definitely be a graflex with 6 grips(ESB in snow,good picture!graflex is cool!)
But I don't know about other details,I like bubble strip,it's a fantastic piece for me,will have to check what details we see in all 3 movies to decide about buttons,activator,and grips.
I would do same for other sabersne vader,one obiwan,except lost or damaged lightsabers,they will need to be done too!

 

[alessandra]

Yeah, my end goal is to display them all together on a tri-saber rack, ANH, ESB and ROTJ, so my ESB needs the proper pins and a second real knob. I'll figure it out!

That's a neat idea about making a 'singular' lightsaber for each character by combining certain details of each of the screen-used versions. It makes sense in a "making the lightsaber Luke would've used" sort of way. Though I think any changes in the saber are just ret-conned as Luke making modifications to it. I think I would end up with an ESB backend, including Kobold D-ring and six notched grips, clamp with an Anakin Ep II or III circuit board on it, and then the ANH front portion again. Who knows.

But I am making these sabers sort of as as a tribute to the original trilogy and how much of a role they played in my childhood. So while I'm not going for 100% screen accurate (stunt/hero versions and all), I'm splitting the difference between getting as many realistic parts as I can and then idealizing them slightly. To me, they're not just prop replicas, or replicas of what Luke would've used - they're iconic objects in and of themselves, with their own meaning - which is why it's been important to me to get as many vintage parts as possible.

 

[alessandra]

Just ordered a custom plaque and stand for my tri-saber collection!

Now I've got to see about either building or getting a custom tri-saber stand commissioned. ^_^ Project almost done!

 

[slothfurnace]

Excellent work! Glad you got the clampcard ok, was about to message you to see if you got it yet, and noticed your update..

One thing to note here in regard to your charging pins from the custom saber shop...

If you can disassemble the original charging section and remove those little plated brass leads that go under the pin, up against the wall of the recess and between the plastic section and metal shroud, you can cut them JUST SO with some wire cutters and reinstall them under the new pins, and the new adapter.

It will give a more accurate read, as the original prop had them, and most blade adapters/pin combos leave them out.

That is to say, if you're putting electronics and a blade in it like I did. If not, then no worries

Also, on your display, how are you going to hang them? Are they going to be against a wall, or on a tabletop?

Mine is against a wall, still need to finish this...

 

[alessandra]

Yes, I got it! Thank you!! My parents are visiting and bringing some of my tools with them, since I live in a tiny Boston apartment and left most of the tools at home (like my mitre box, dremel, and soldering iron).

And thanks for the advice on the pins - yeah that missing lead always bothered me in the blade adapter sockets. I started off planning an LED saber, but now I plan on leaving them static.

I'm looking into how much it would cost to custom order a tri-saber stand...like this for the mounting/bracket parts (except for 3 holders instead of 4 and without the clear rods) EDIT: I've decided to just build one myself.

I sketched this up in about 20 seconds and took a picture with my phone, so no judgments! ^_^ But I want the retain the harder edges and angles of the mount in the final picture.

Then a mirrored base like the one used here (and note hard angles used on the mounting bracket, versus rounded edges):

But of course, with the base extended to fit the larger brackets. I think it's something I can make when I go home for Christmas break - my dad has a pretty extensive workshop and I've worked in plastic/acrylic before, but we'll see which option I end up with. I could make the mounts pretty easily, and if I could find a mirrored plate, I could build the base out of wood and paint/stain it black.

 

[Sym-Cha]

Besides GINO's more accurate grips there are also these real T-track from the UK still in use for sale in the junkyard :

http://www.therpf.com/f13/t-track-sale-122706/

The only thing that's just a bit off is the height of the fin however it's plastic ABS.

Also you can use gold-plating equipment to make the longer fingers on your ESB cards look golden. Slothfurnace never got around to offering those up for sale due to higher costs.

Might I suggest swapping the graflex top, with the correct pins, between an ESB and ANH lightsaber, since it's not quite clear which pins were used on an ANH graflex. For your information my ANH has also the straight pins

-Chaim

 

[alessandra]

Thank you Sym-Cha! It does make me feel better - I'm sort of OCD about these sort of details, but I like the idea of having those be different - it helps make the sabers each a little more unique. ^_^ So I'll go ahead and swap the pins on the two, and put the straight posts on the ANH one and the TRS posts on the ESB one and leave it at that.

Now...if anyone has an extra vintage red button they'd be willing to sell - let me know please! I know it's a long shot, but I hate to buy a flash just for the extra button and unfortunately, I don't know if my brain is going to be able to be satisfied knowing that's a replica button.

 

[slothfurnace]

I am sure you know this, but it's something that hadn't occurred to me till I made my stand... Make sure when you design your stand that that RADIUSES match the specific parts of the saber they need to cradle. Meaning, a 1.5 inch radius cut into the stand will work fine on the graflex body, but not the clamp, as it's slightly larger diameter, and won't seat properly... just as an example.

You want your sabers to sit straight

 

[alessandra]

Thanks sloth!

Yep, that's what I was planning! Getting two sheets of say 1/4" or 3/8" acrylic, then choosing two drill bit sizes (for the ANH/ESB ones) and drilling the holes, then clamping them together and cutting out the hard-edged shapes. I'll seat the two Graflex sabers on their grips on one side and on their main body on the other. I'll figure out how I want the ROTJ to sit and drill those separately. I figure I'll have to alternate the hole sizes since the clamp is on the opposite side in each of those sabers, so they'll be facing different directions.

So the sabers will go (emitters being "forward")

ANH - Facing left
ESB - Facing right
ROTJ - Facing left I guess for symmetry, but then the greeblies on the control box will be facing the wrong way...hmm...I guess it could face right too...

Anyhow, I'll find a mirror of the proper size to rest it all on and build a wooden base around that. I might use a thin sheet of acrylic, maybe 1/16" thick, to cover the mirror so I can use a syringe and plastic cement to seamlessly fuse the two stand pieces to the thin acrylic cover, while still allowing the mirror to do its work.

 

[Sym-Cha]

Here you see the ESB lightsaber on Luke's belt on screen :

(Screen-shot Courtesy Zombie Killer)

Notice the small clamp screw in place and also the use of alu tape over the G R A F L E X text. And the direction of the smaller silver fingers on the ESB card pointing away from the clamp lever? So might I suggest that when you really want screen-accurate to use this clamp (see red arrow) for your ESB lightsaber :

Even that top clamp has the clamplever on the screen-used side as well. You may need to turn the bottom graflex part 180º in the clamp so that the Kobold D is on the correct side too

-Chaim

 

[parfaitelumiere]

sloth is right,if the radius is wrong,the saber wont be horizontal,and it will be ugly
it's a little bit harder for 3 sabers,but it's possible to do it yourself.

top right,bottom wrong:

you just have to make a first model from hard paper,choose a height for the center of your sabers,then measure the diameter and report on the paper,then cut,and try.
It means both parts of you stand will be different...
If it's ok,you just have to do it with plexiglass,you can polish it with "miror",it's a liquid we use in France for copper,but it works for everything...
other way is to cut same radius on your stand and add material on the sabers where it's small,to obtain the good display.

 

[alessandra]

Thanks, Lumiere!

This is sort of what I have in mind for this part, of course, with varying holes for each saber side.

Then I'll make a base that's pretty much exactly this base, but made big enough to fit my larger stand. Note the red lines where you can see that the cutout in the mount for the backend of the saber is bigger than the front.)

And this is basically the plaque and stand I'm getting made:

But without the specific movie, since my sabers are from all three, and with "Lightsabers" (plural instead of singular). I'll match whatever the thickness of the plaque stand is and use that for my saber mount pieces' width.

 

[alessandra]

Quick update - my D-rings from TandyLeather came in tonight - it's the D-ring on the left. The D-ring on the right is from Blast-Tech. I'm definitely much happier with the TandyLeather D-ring. It's not perfect, but it's pretty good. Blast-Tech should really start carrying these instead. While the photo on the website looked more squared off, this D-ring actually has a bit of curve to it, which makes it better than I thought it would be.

 

[parfaitelumiere]

For me strap on the left is better,and ring on the right is better,because less space between ring and strap on each side.
you can put the small ring from the right on the strap from the left.
I tried,it's easy to do.
you can cut the D ring from the left in the middle of straight section,hidden by strap,anc close the space created by cut to shorten the straigt section,and give the ring a better "0" shape.
I tried,it's better,resuslt is closer to chain D ring.
just take care not to damage the ring when you "close it" once cut.

 

[Sym-Cha]

It's hard to tell without the bottom of the graflex in the picture to tell which D-ring/strap is better.
So could you add pictures with each D-ring in the right place on the bottom of the graflex?

-Chaim