About to Resin/ Fibre Glass first Iron Man build.
- Thread starter Henderino
- Start date
Propsjonnyb
Well-Known Member
This is why you coat the thing in PVA first it seals the paper or cardstock , then you resin and fibreglass until you have the desired thickness, too thin and it'll be like an eggshell and crack like humpty-dumpty , you must build up two or three layers ( or more) to build even thickness until you have a thickness suitable for use eg adding hinges for faceplates etc A coat on the inside is always recommended as the finish inside may be rough and sharp especially fiberglass, it's really there so when you line it, it's easier to do - it's that simple also it adds to the overall thickness and ultimate hardness of your helmet .I haven't used PVA on the outside of my peps, but only one or two coats of resin.
But I learned the hard way that the first coat needs to be a very light one. If you flow it on it will soak in and can cause the larger panels to warp. A light first coat stiffens the card enough for a second coat to give it a bit more strength. I have found that using a 50/50 mix of resin and bondo on the inside acts as a good base for the fibreglass cloth or mat.
Anyway - main thing for me is that pepping is a fun activity on its own right - or it should be - so if I mess up one or two pieces on the way I just chalk it up to experience and give to to the kids to play with.
Cheers, and have fun. Phil
drakobus
Member
Everyone makes valid points to be fair my helmets and parts I coat in pva outside then fiberglass inside with alot of resin and pad fib erglass in then plastic coat outside with polycraft 60 sand with 400 wet grit and fill ny tiny holes with p38 and then 400 grit sand and it's easy to reshape only had to do it once the helmets keep shape and are stupidly strong and if you fiberglass inside properly using mat not tissue it should be strong enough to hold around 30kg in weight I've been able to stand on few of my pep parts (not advised)
Elderpred13
Active Member
Look on page 5 under Epsilon by Booksandcorsets, you may want to try this stuff. I am going to do my Mark 42 with it. It sounds like the answer to getting a solid coating without using bondo, or other pain in the butt material. Very nice work by the way, good luck with the build, and welcome to the RPF.
Thank you very much I'm loving this place!
These all seem like very unique ways and very interesting and i'm liking them more and more i read them.
Because it's my first build however - I think i'm gonna keep it simple, stick to what a lot of you guys are saying, and basically resin then fibreglass both the inside and out. and see what that turns out like.
I will update you all and let you know how it goes, hopefully with pictures!
Thanks again.
Madosheet
Active Member
I'm about to begin a project too, also an Iron Man helmet, and I'm also from the UK, so it's great to be seeing all these posts which helps me begin preparation too!
I have a question about the fibreglass stage on the inside. I've watched STEALTH's tutorials and he said to put the fibreglass so it comes over the edges a bit as that makes it stronger, so my question is, after cutting the excess fibreglass that overhangs, do I need to sand down the inside of the helmet? Will there be sharp glass parts inside? I don't want a fibreglass strand in the eye if I plan to wear it!
And finally, at what stage do you cut the faceplate off? After resin and fibreglassing, or after the body filler/bond stage?
I have a question about the fibreglass stage on the inside. I've watched STEALTH's tutorials and he said to put the fibreglass so it comes over the edges a bit as that makes it stronger, so my question is, after cutting the excess fibreglass that overhangs, do I need to sand down the inside of the helmet? Will there be sharp glass parts inside? I don't want a fibreglass strand in the eye if I plan to wear it!
And finally, at what stage do you cut the faceplate off? After resin and fibreglassing, or after the body filler/bond stage?
Blaxmyth
Sr Member
From experience - which in my case means learning things the hard way - if there is an edge without a lip I lay the mat or cloths so it hangs over the edge a bit, and trim it off with a dremel when it is set. If there is an edge, I try to lay the first layer of mat or cloth against the lip, usually sanding/grinding it down after it has gone hard.
You will definitely want to do some sanding inside the helmet, because no matter how careful you are there will be several raised threads of class in odd places, usually on the edges of internal corners where the mat comes away from the surface as it cures. And while raw fibreglass cloth is lovely, flexible, smooth stuff to handle, when it has been resined it is most unforgiving. I usually get a think leather glove and some coarse sandpaper, then scuff the heck out of the inside. Then I'll dremel any major voids or bubbles away so I can repair them with resin or body filler. I tried coating the inside with some Chux kitchen cloths, resining them into place. It was sort of OK, and it did cover the rough bits, but after it was mocked by shed visitors a few times I stopped using that method...
Handy tip - go to a cleaning supply company and get some blue nitrile cleaning gloves. The ones I use here in new Zealand are the High Risk type, branded High-5. They will catch most of the sharp bits of glass.
Another tip - use a really good respirator, one that has a charcoal filter(s), and use it when you start handling and cutting out the fibreglass mat or cloth as well as when you are mixing and laying the resin. A ray of late afternoon sun came in through the shed window the other afternoon and revealed about five thousand tiny bits of glass fibres suspended in the air that I was breathing. Been vigilant about using the mask more since then.
Don't mean to alarm you or make you think fibreglassing is inherently hazardous, but it pays to be aware of some of the risks.
Cheers, and as before - have fun! :thumbsup
You will definitely want to do some sanding inside the helmet, because no matter how careful you are there will be several raised threads of class in odd places, usually on the edges of internal corners where the mat comes away from the surface as it cures. And while raw fibreglass cloth is lovely, flexible, smooth stuff to handle, when it has been resined it is most unforgiving. I usually get a think leather glove and some coarse sandpaper, then scuff the heck out of the inside. Then I'll dremel any major voids or bubbles away so I can repair them with resin or body filler. I tried coating the inside with some Chux kitchen cloths, resining them into place. It was sort of OK, and it did cover the rough bits, but after it was mocked by shed visitors a few times I stopped using that method...
Handy tip - go to a cleaning supply company and get some blue nitrile cleaning gloves. The ones I use here in new Zealand are the High Risk type, branded High-5. They will catch most of the sharp bits of glass.
Another tip - use a really good respirator, one that has a charcoal filter(s), and use it when you start handling and cutting out the fibreglass mat or cloth as well as when you are mixing and laying the resin. A ray of late afternoon sun came in through the shed window the other afternoon and revealed about five thousand tiny bits of glass fibres suspended in the air that I was breathing. Been vigilant about using the mask more since then.
Don't mean to alarm you or make you think fibreglassing is inherently hazardous, but it pays to be aware of some of the risks.
Cheers, and as before - have fun! :thumbsup
Madosheet
Active Member
Thanks for the warning!
I've been on these boards lurking for a couple months now and have been reading a lot of before beginning my own project and it was always the resin+ fiberglass part that deterred me from starting!
The respirators that are (more) easily available from the UK just look so different from those cartridge ones I've seen everyone else use in the US and such.
They look more like the one below, but I've asked before, and apparently it does do the job well, it just worries me when I see that it's 'disposable' after a month of use?
Propsjonnyb
Well-Known Member
You want a good aspirator if your going to work with fibreglass, the best you can afford mot a cheap disposable -- the glasssheet layers give off a tremendous amount of dust particles that you cannot see when you start to work with them - Which is why I prefer Resin coating almost every time , there is a time when fibreglass is appropriate , but you MUST ALWAYS WEAR A MASK ! and I appologise for shouting , breathe in the fibres for any length of time can seriously damage you health so all ways stay safe and healthy .
Let's be newbie brits together, loud and proud!
Haha, when you're looking for fibreglass - 'David's Fastglass' is the one to have apparently. And you can acquire that from Halfords.
Blaxmyth
Sr Member
Might pay to check out online suppliers of fibreglass products. I know here in New Zealand the fibreglass kits from home improvement shops work out about five times more expensive than buying it through a fibreglass dealer online. Just a thought, as I've managed to do a lot more for the same amount by buying that way.
