About to Resin/ Fibre Glass first Iron Man build.

[Henderino]

Hi guys. As the title 'suggests' I'm about to Resin/ Fibre Glass my first pepakura build which is an Iron Man helmet! (The Sharkhead mark 6 files I believe).And basically I know that a lot of you will have been in my position, and were a bit apprehensive about possibly ruining something you've spent a bit of time on.

So, I've seen video's and photographs of this process, but basically I wanna know if you have any tips for me? If you could walk me through the process etc, I'm from the UK, and I'm using 'David's fast mat kit' (from Halfords).

This is my first thread too so I feel so much like a small boy against the world hahah, I feel like I'm going to get bombarded with 'Lol newfag' and 'Too Long Didn't Read' comments! Haha. Anything you can offer would be fantastic and I thank you in advance.

I will try and post pics of my piece, but as I said, I am actually a NEWFAG, so this could take some time! Thanks Guys!

Henderino.

UPDATE: Here's Some photo's:

 

[JWMines]

hey, i'm in your position too! i'm half way through my foam iron man costume but my helmets still paper! hahaha

 

[Propsjonnyb]

Right , firstly make sure the inside of your helmet is packed out with padding - so it will retain it's shape , then apply a coat of PVA or white glue all over the outside of the helmet ( use a paint brush as the glue is water soluble) let it dry , now do it again , but add layers of tissue down to add strength , (this is optional - but I always do it!) paint another later of glue - let it dry and repeat twice more , now get your fibreglass kit , and start , coat the helmet in the FG resin and laydown the fibreglass in layers and coat with FG resin do this until you've covered the helmet, set aside to dry. Take out he padding, and repeat the whole process again for the inside - PVA then fibreglass , now go over the outside of the helmet and sand it using coarse , medium and fine sandpaper, now examine the helmet for pits and holes, areas you may have missed etc , use ( P38 filler) bondo to fill the holes and defects and sand smooth again , you don't need to bondo the inside but do check visible edges. when you think you have it smooth , Prime the surface with a coat of car body primer , this will reveal how well you did as it'll show up all the bits, reapply bondo and sand smooth , repeat until you have a helmet to your liking , apply a final coat of primer , they mask and spray in you colours of choice again using car body spray , let dry apply a final coat or two of suitable clear varnish and your finished , you 'd be wise to prime the inside at the same time and spray it a neutral colour then line it with foam .

 

[Justover6]

This forum is full of pretty mature people since it's a craft site and not a random chat site full of bored people. You wouldn't have to worry about all the newfag stuff as much here.

 

[jmgrice]

I dont think you need to cover it in glue tbh. Its very hard to get fibreglass in all the nooks in the helmet. Its the design and getting it all up in the helmet. For it to be effective you need to get it in all the creases not just going over the lips. Or when you sand itll go through. I do one coat of resin. On the outside. Then I rondo the inside as I can never get fibreglass to go everywhere. Some of the threads from the US use fibreglass that looks alot softer then both versions that we get at halfords. So maybe its easier to get in. Anyways. I usually resin the bottom half first. As when applying pressure on the top. The bottom easily warps. Thats is the resin AND fibreglass/rondo stage. Trust me ive ruined 2 helmets that way. Another option could be rondo then fibreglass as you can get a rounded surface inside. As rondo isnt quite as strong. But strong non the less. Its good as it runs into the crevases. Perhaps you could pep a basic piece to try stuff on. Its sole distroying pepping around 10 helmets lol. Im in the UK also so feel free to ask about anything else supplies etc.

To add. When you resin the outside. Wether or not you pack it. Make sure its a thin layer. I wouldnt pack it but thats me. If it wasnt packed enough then it wouldnt help. If it was over packed it could bulge when the card is wet.

J

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[Henderino]

Ahh okay, I can't thank you enough for your time on this. You see, I have had numerous amounts of people telling me not to resin/fibreglass the outside of the helmet, just the inside.. but the way you guys are explaining it makes much more sense, I have to say. Would there be any advantage of not doing the outside that you guys could see?

 

[jmgrice]

Ahh okay, I can't thank you enough for your time on this. You see, I have had numerous amounts of people telling me not to resin/fibreglass the outside of the helmet, just the inside.. but the way you guys are explaining it makes much more sense, I have to say. Would there be any advantage of not doing the outside that you guys could see?

Well it would probably warp. The idea is a thin coat out side so it can then stand the weight of the thicker stuff inside. If your bondoing the outside it needs something to stick to anyways so it will need resin.

J

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[Henderino]

Right. And in terms of the 'filler' what would you recommend?

 

[jmgrice]

Halfords plastic padding. Only stocks small tins at my local but its great. Dont confuse it with the fibreglass tin though they look the same asides from the name. Im sure the other filler is fine but I used plastic padding when it was snowing in February and it still hardened fine with a little extra hardner. Silver tin with yellow top.

J

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[Henderino]

Halfords plastic padding. Only stocks small tins at my local but its great.

I'm really intrigued to see what this stuff is haha. Padding that comes in tins!?!

Thanks for your help.

 

[jmgrice]

I'm really intrigued to see what this stuff is haha. Padding that comes in tins!?!

Thanks for your help.

Its actually just like body filler. Could be the same for all I know. Looks the same. Good luck!

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[Propsjonnyb]

The problem with paper/card stock is that it is not strong enough to support the weight of resin/fibreglass , so hence the reason for padding the inside before prepping the outside. The reason you 'glue' the outside is to seal the surface to prevent the resin or fibreglass soaking in and deforming your helmet . PVA first let it dry , (use tissue & PVA to strengthen -optional) then coat with Resin/Fibreglass , then filler ( bondo P38) or putty whatever suit you best, you don't have to use resin and fibreglass or just fibre glass or just resin , whatever you feel works , but if you start with cardstock - do it in that order as it's a proven method , I've been doing it for the past 30 years !!

 

[jmgrice]

The problem with paper/card stock is that it is not strong enough to support the weight of resin/fibreglass , so hence the reason for padding the inside before prepping the outside. The reason you 'glue' the outside is to seal the surface to prevent the resin or fibreglass soaking in and deforming your helmet . PVA first let it dry , (use tissue & PVA to strengthen -optional) then coat with Resin/Fibreglass , then filler ( bondo P38) or putty whatever suit you best, you don't have to use resin and fibreglass or just fibre glass or just resin , whatever you feel works , but if you start with cardstock - do it in that order as it's a proven method , I've been doing it for the past 30 years !!

I beg to differ. Mine holds fine. I just needed to make the inside stronger as my weight was damaging when I leaned on it after. Was a glassing issue. Theres plenty of successful ones on here. But if your extra cautious by all means. A very light coat of resin on the outside has never deformed my pep files.

J

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[Henderino]

I've been doing it for the past 30 years !!

That's dedication to the community man!

Okay, So the way I was gonna do, "phase 2" in my mind was basically:

1. 'Pad' the inside
2. Coat the outside in thin layer of PVA to strengthen
3. Resin the outside (1 coat - let it dry)
4. Resin parts of the fiber glass mat (1sq since at a time) and apply it to the piece and let it dry
5. Apply one more coat of resin over the fiber glass mat and let it dry.

Then from there, in my head it's 'stage 3' Which is the car filler (bondo) and sanding stage from there.

Feel free to laugh at my inexperienced mind! Haha, but that is my plan. What do you guys think!? Any issues?

 

[jmgrice]

To add. You can apply resin as thin as pva so why would it warp it? Im not as experienced so wudnt know the in depths.
J

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[Blaxmyth]

I haven't used PVA on the outside of my peps, but only one or two coats of resin.

But I learned the hard way that the first coat needs to be a very light one. If you flow it on it will soak in and can cause the larger panels to warp. A light first coat stiffens the card enough for a second coat to give it a bit more strength. I have found that using a 50/50 mix of resin and bondo on the inside acts as a good base for the fibreglass cloth or mat.

Anyway - main thing for me is that pepping is a fun activity on its own right - or it should be - so if I mess up one or two pieces on the way I just chalk it up to experience and give to to the kids to play with.

Cheers, and have fun. Phil

 

[Henderino]

Okay wow. I thank you all for your fantastic tips, they really are very helpful (I think I'm falling for this community! Haha).

Last thing, is there anything else I should add to the INSIDE of the helmet that I've missed out off the list? Or just use the padding on the inside?

For E.g. is it wise to fibreglass and resin the inside? I've spoke to numerous amount of people that strongly suggest that I do and some have suggested I don't! And as a newbie, it's all very confusing! Especially seeing as I don't see what the advantage is of putting it on the inside.

All help is appreciated with this subject, thank you.

 

[Blaxmyth]

Speaking for myself, there's no way I'd put anything other than some resin and a skim coat of body filler on the outside.

I add resin and fibreglass matting on the inside of the helmet to give it solidity and strength. It is very difficult to get a smooth finish on fibreglass as it is devilishly hard stuff. By having it on the inside you can leave it as rough as you want, so it gives strength, but won't be seen.

After you've carefully constructed the pep, all you're looking to do is strengthen it from within, and decorate it on the outside with as little sanding and body filler as you need to get an accurate and smooth surface for painting.

Well, that's how I see it. I've completed a few pieces, including a stormtrooper torso, but I'm still very much a learner, and I've got a shed full of unfinished projects. All the best and have fun. Cheers!

Okay wow. I thank you all for your fantastic tips, they really are very helpful (I think I'm falling for this community! Haha).

Last thing, is there anything else I should add to the INSIDE of the helmet that I've missed out off the list? Or just use the padding on the inside?

For E.g. is it wise to fibreglass and resin the inside? I've spoke to numerous amount of people that strongly suggest that I do and some have suggested I don't! And as a newbie, it's all very confusing! Especially seeing as I don't see what the advantage is of putting it on the inside.

All help is appreciated with this subject, thank you.

 

[Catavarie]

I just Glassed my first piece and what I did was a thin coat of resin on the outside once that dried I laid fiberglass cloth inside and then applied resin with a brush over it. I was suprised by how stiff the first coat of resin made the piece and after fiberglassing there is absolutely no flex in the piece. I don't think multiple layers of glass are required, but as I stated this is my first time so I'm pretty darn new at this stuff.

 

[dms54nyc]

What i do is use 3m spray glue. Spray the inside. Lay the cloth then resin. Then resin the outside. Never had a warping problem and the glue works great. Just wear latex gloves of course