About to begin a Babylon 5 uniform build open to tips/advice/photo reference

[CapKirk34]

One thing I can see that may be an issue is the 'tab' on the waist that crosses over the center of the jacket. You need to extend it so it ends just below the right hand edge of where the leather chest patch will be. Another is the width of the wrist/arm cuff, you need to make it narrower. I hope these images are of some help.
View attachment 1295504

I totally see it. Thanks for pointing this out, I'll put these details on my note sheet that I'm keeping through there muslin test.

I also feel like my armscye is too deep, limiting my range of motion. Not sure how to properly adjust that.

 

[19narvik40]

I totally see it. Thanks for pointing this out, I'll put these details on my note sheet that I'm keeping through there muslin test.

I also feel like my armscye is too deep, limiting my range of motion. Not sure how to properly adjust that.

Do you have a favourite light to medium jacket you can use to measure? Your most comfortable jacket would work best I would think.

 

[CapKirk34]

Do you have a favourite light to medium jacket you can use to measure? Your most comfortable jacket would work best I would think.

I had the same thought. I've got an Eisenhower-like jacket that I used to mimic the collar shape, I suppose I can use it to get a better feel for the depth of the arms. I made certain to get plenty of muslin in case I had to try it a couple of times before starting the real thing.

 

[19narvik40]

I had the same thought. I've got an Eisenhower-like jacket that I used to mimic the collar shape, I suppose I can use it to get a better feel for the depth of the arms. I made certain to get plenty of muslin in case I had to try it a couple of times before starting the real thing.

I really wish I had your knowledge of making clothes, I'd have several costumes done including Zack's gray Security uniform. I am willing to help any way I can.

 

[CapKirk34]

I really wish I had your knowledge of making clothes, I'd have several costumes done including Zack's gray Security uniform. I am willing to help any way I can.

I greatly appreciate all the help you've given. This project is out of my comfort zone, so I'm open to all feedback and suggestions.

 

[CapKirk34]

Don't ever underestimate the importance of a muslin test.

Lots of bugs to work out here. Not the least of which is that I need more practice easing sleeve caps.

The collar is still giving me fits (hence, no collar yet), waistband SHOULD'VE extended to the rt flap based on the original measurements, and the zipper will not stay behind the left flap. The lining must be the key there?

Putting out an APB for some experienced clothiers to help with solving the flap/zipper issue.

Some sloppy top stitching on the waistband because I just wanted it attached.

Almost ready for the real thing.

 

[CapKirk34]

Got some accessories in over the past two days, and was treated to this glimpse at the zipper on the inside.

Re: the zipper, I'm not certain whom to tag on this for an opinion, but is the lining what holds the left zipper placket in place? I'm REALLY trying to avoid top stitching or snaps/velcro.

 

[19narvik40]

The image you have of the uniform is for a female uniform. I dug into my old files to find some images of the zipper and this is what I came up with. There is a small 'flap' on the left edge that will overlap the right side and hide the zipper. You can just see it in these images (ignore the red circles).

You can just make out the sewing line for the zipper on the left side in these images,

You can see the gap from the flap over the leather patch here in these images;

I also found that the zipper on the right side is set right at the edge and is probably between the leather patch and the jacket material,

You should probably stiffen the flap section so that it doesn't curl back on itself. I hope this is some help to you.

 

[CapKirk34]

It's very helpful. None of the images I found showed a definitive stitch line on the zipper flap, but maybe it's my eyes. These are very helpful. Thank you.

For the record, though, the image I posted is a men's jacket, just not the officer style.

B5 screen used duty uniform

 

[CapKirk34]

Cut everything except the waistband and collar piping tonight - want to be certain those are the right lengths before using up my trim supply. Also opted to cut the additional seams, and shoulder "pleats". They don't show up well in these photos, but will when completed.

 

[19narvik40]

Cut everything except the waistband and collar piping tonight - want to be certain those are the right lengths before using up my trim supply. Also opted to cut the additional seams, and shoulder "pleats". They don't show up well in these photos, but will when completed.

I worry that your cuffs are still a little too wide, this is one of the better images I could find clearly showing the.

I did find the measurements I have for the buckle. I made mine slightly oversized as it needs to be curved to fit the waist of the jacket.

I also found the measurements sterbuc sent me, you can see the curve I mentioned. The posts you see are for screws that held the buckle in place when on the uniform.

I found some sites that sell these types of backing should you decide to go that way.
US $9.99 |20 pcs / Lot 4mm x 10mm solid Brass 10mm flat head Button Stud Screw nail Chicago Screw Leather Belt Free Shipping F370|belted blouse|belt rhinestonebelt keychain - AliExpress
US $10.5 |50 PCS 18mm x 9mm Screwback nail Stud Chicago Solid Slotted Screw Head Button|stud standard|nail companiesnail head stud - AliExpress
17 mm Screw Back Buttons for Shoulder Boards x 2. Silver

Hope this helps.

 

[CapKirk34]

I worry that your cuffs are still a little too wide, this is one of the better images I could find clearly showing the.
View attachment 1297438

I did find the measurements I have for the buckle. I made mine slightly oversized as it needs to be curved to fit the waist of the jacket.
View attachment 1297446

I also found the measurements sterbuc sent me, you can see the curve I mentioned. The posts you see are for screws that held the buckle in place when on the uniform.
View attachment 1297447

I found some sites that sell these types of backing should you decide to go that way.
US $9.99 |20 pcs / Lot 4mm x 10mm solid Brass 10mm flat head Button Stud Screw nail Chicago Screw Leather Belt Free Shipping F370|belted blouse|belt rhinestonebelt keychain - AliExpress
US $10.5 |50 PCS 18mm x 9mm Screwback nail Stud Chicago Solid Slotted Screw Head Button|stud standard|nail companiesnail head stud - AliExpress
17 mm Screw Back Buttons for Shoulder Boards x 2. Silver

Hope this helps.

Thank you so much for the buckle info. I can get this to my fabricator!


As for the cuffs, I think it's an optical illusion because of the seam allowance. I pinned up the piping today, and here's what it looks like "finished". Going any smaller than 1.5" looked too small to me when I mocked it up. Maybe I'm wrong, though.

 

[CapKirk34]

Front and rear assemblies are together. Sleeve bands are sewn, but not sewn down (will do that after the caps are in). Getting a good sense of how this will look when complete.

The epaulets SUCK. Took a pause, will try again tomorrow.

 

[19narvik40]

Thank you so much for the buckle info. I can get this to my fabricator!
As for the cuffs, I think it's an optical illusion because of the seam allowance. I pinned up the piping today, and here's what it looks like "finished". Going any smaller than 1.5" looked too small to me when I mocked it up. Maybe I'm wrong, though.

Now that you have them sewn up, they look a better size. They looked wider in the raw form.

Front and rear assemblies are together. Sleeve bands are sewn, but not sewn down (will do that after the caps are in). Getting a good sense of how this will look when complete.

The epaulets SUCK. Took a pause, will try again tomorrow.

I would suggest just making the epaulettes for now, they are essentially just long rectangles. When you are sewing on the arms, just add the outer edge of the epaullets centered on the shoulder. They used velcro to hold the epaulettes down onto the shoulder.

 

[CapKirk34]

Now that you have them sewn up, they look a better size. They looked wider in the raw form.



I would suggest just making the epaulettes for now, they are essentially just long rectangles. When you are sewing on the arms, just add the outer edge of the epaullets centered on the shoulder. They used velcro to hold the epaulettes down onto the shoulder.
View attachment 1297821

Indeed. That's how I started with them, but couldn't get them turned out because of there interfacing. It shredded my first one, so to stop my frustrations I took a time out.

Tonight when I try again I'll insert the interfacing AFTER it's turned out.

 

[CapKirk34]

I realize this may not seem like much progress, but I had to rebuild the bodice, and the epaulets took 3 HOURS of trial and error (they just wouldn't turn). Fronts and back are attached; caps are pinned- looks like I have it correct. Note where the EA badge sits relative to the previous iteration. It practically sat on my collar bone before (which *may* have been accurate, but felt too high) and it now sits more akin to a Starfleet comm badge.

Sewing the shoulder pleats will be interesting.

 

[ivanj05]

I admire you for tackling this get up!

 

[CapKirk34]

I admire you for tackling this get up!

Thanks. It's been challenging, but I feel like I'm making acceptable progress.

 

[19narvik40]

CapKirk34, how wide are your epaulettes?

 

[CapKirk34]

CapKirk34, how wide are your epaulettes?