AA/Diamond $20 Star Trek Communicator: modified with metal parts

Thanks. I think it would be great if one of the metal artisans on the board were to offer an upgrade kit (hint hint).. :cool

To do what I did, you'd only need a moire ring and bezels for the three lights. Also some sort of replacement moire, plus plastic rhinestones for the "crystals" (available at a crafts store).

operationspiffuptx3.jpg


The moire ring I used is apparently from one of the old "CaptJTK" kits. This is just a machined metal ring with grooves in the side, and a little lip in front to retain the plastic moire disc. The ring I used is a little larger than the hole in the comm case, so it's glued directly onto the front comm shell. A better solution would be a ring machined at the same diameter as the original, so it could just drop in from the back.

The original moire ring on the toy is way too tall though.

aamoireringvsreplicametjt7.jpg


The three indicator lights on the toy are just one piece of plastic that fits in from the back. I replaced that with model train wheels that drop in from the front, plus plastic rhinestones with the silver backing scraped off.

I used train wheels because they had larger diameter openings at the back and could let more light through.

The light bezes "should" be inverted Thunderjet slotcar hubs, which are the same hubs as were used for the control buttons.

Ideally you'd want bezels that resemble the originals T-jet hubs from the outside, but which have a large diamter hole inside to let light through.

The control buttons on the AA are cheap plastic though, as is the controls plate itself. I would have liked to repalce all that but I didn't want to risk breaking the buttons on the circuit board.

You can check out Herocomm.com for more information on how the props were built

http://herocomm.com/PartsAndPlans/Parts.htm

One simple way to get al the parts needed to upgrade an AA... would be to buy a Vegas Star Trek Experience comm! The parts should pretty much plug and play. What you'd be doing is transplanting the sound board from the AA into the STTE. But you'd want to dremel off the paint and chrome on the STTE's grid and metal.

One thing you'd need to do is adapt the STTE's flipgrid-trigger mechanism to the AA's method. I don't know how hard that would be since I haven't cracked open a STTE to see how it works.

- k
 
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Just checked NewForce's site, and between today and Thursday their Comm preorders will be shipped. It's also now listed in their store as an In-Stock item for $19.99. If anyone wants to pick one up, this is a great deal. They're also carrying the "exclusive-phrase" Comm for $24.99.
 
I found that sanding the top of the gearbox cover down so it is thinner helps with the sound.
The gearbox cover was pressing on the inside of the top shell when you tighten the screws up. Compressing the gear box area, at least I think it was.
Leaving the gearbox cover screws a bit loose as well as the top couple screws on the battery case/back cover seem to help too.
I guess getting the gears to have as much freedom without any binding forces is the trick.
Not as quiet as the MR, but about as best as I think I will ever get it.
 
What a fun thread, thanks!
I have one of these on order now... Although I never even finished upgrading my STTE communicator! LOL!
I may leave it as is, for a while at least. If my kid ever gets interested in this stuff, he would probably destroy them while playing anyway, just like I did with my exploration set!

Great price too! Who would have thought 25 years ago that NOW we would have so many great TOS props for such attainable prices?

I think the STTE squirtgun phaser was another of these "can't miss" price point toys.

Fantastic pics of your work Phase!
 
If you put your try me tab back in place after removing the solder, "Your signal is very weak. Can you turn up your gain?" becomes the demo sound. I used a soldering iron (with a needle point tip) to slice the blob down the middle and let it harden into two separate pieces.

Thanks Karl. It seems that every time you post photos, my collection grows.
 
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Ooo! Interesting.

Just to clarify, putting the try me tab back, makes the "signal weak" clip the single and only clip it will play (not replaces "signal weak" with the try me sound).

It also suppresses the flipopen chirp and the moire and lights.

Fun with modding! :lol
 
Thanks for clarifying. What's been working best to quiet the gears? I saw that mine were already greased when I opened the case- so I left them alone & noisy. I am going to try aluminum tape on the midplate to cover up that silver paint. It has worked well on other things.

I've always wondered- what is the moire effect supposed to represent anyway? Is it just to look interesting, or have they explained the imaginary science behind it?
 
what is the moire effect supposed to represent anyway? Is it just to look interesting, or have they explained the imaginary science behind it?

Never explained. There may be a design sketch for the communicator like there is for the tricorder and phaser, but I have never seen it.

Judging from how the characters use their communicators in the show (locator beam in "This side of Paradise", sonic weapon in "Friday's Child" etc), I get the impression that it might be a display of some kind... showing signal strength, or position of the receiver somehow.

The rotating moire pattern does remind me of magnetic field lines, and remember that the communicators are supposed to operate on subspace radio principles (not regular radio), so the signal travels faster than light and over huge distances. So if the moire is a display it could have something to do with subspace.

You'l note that Spock has a similar moire pattern on his Library Computer station on the Bridge.

bridgespockimrg7.jpg


- k
 
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Thanks for clarifying. What's been working best to quiet the gears? I saw that mine were already greased when I opened the case- so I left them alone & noisy. I am going to try aluminum tape on the midplate to cover up that silver paint. It has worked well on other things.

I've always wondered- what is the moire effect supposed to represent anyway? Is it just to look interesting, or have they explained the imaginary science behind it?

I quieted mine up quite a bit by taking apart the gear box, and sanding the cover down thinner (seemed to be pushing against the cover, leaving the screws a bit loose. Removing the tiny guide pins that lock the cover in a particular spot. lithium grease in every area of friction, including the holes the shafts fit in. Just basically reducing anything that would cause the gears, cover, shafts etc, to bind or press against each other or the case in any way with force.
 
Cessna, is your moire now "quiet"? As in "MR-quiet"? Or just "quiet-ER"?

I may bust mine open again and try your techniques. I put some lubricant from Radio Shack on the exposed gears (not sure if it's silicon or what it is exactly... some kind of clear jelly in an injector tube).

I backed off the screws holding down the gear coverplate a turn or so, but I'd say my moire is "nearly as loud" as before. When I get my Newforce ones I can compare.

Also I'd like a better speaker muffler. I crammed some tissue in there (also around the BACK of the speaker too), but it seems loud as ever.

- k
 
Cessna, is your moire now "quiet"? As in "MR-quiet"? Or just "quiet-ER"?

I may bust mine open again and try your techniques. I put some lubricant from Radio Shack on the exposed gears (not sure if it's silicon or what it is exactly... some kind of clear jelly in an injector tube).

I backed off the screws holding down the gear coverplate a turn or so, but I'd say my moire is "nearly as loud" as before. When I get my Newforce ones I can compare.

Also I'd like a better speaker muffler. I crammed some tissue in there (also around the BACK of the speaker too), but it seems loud as ever.

- k

Not MR quiet. The MR is the king of quiet with just its slight whirring.
But far improved over say the STTE comm and much better then the way it was before I tinkered. It doesnt distract so much from when you play the sounds.

I noticed that squeezing the body would make the noise change, so this clued me into thinking perhaps the gearbox cover was pressing against something. I would get it quieted up with the cover off and as soon as I tightened down everything it would get noisy again. Once I sanded the cover down, it would stay quiet.
 
OIK thanks. Any ideas for attenuating the LOUD speaker sound?

BTW For handy reference I have posted my comm modificiation photos to Flickr.

http://flickr.com/photos/12377578@N07/sets/72157604109667812/


Probably could put in a small adjustable potentiometer for the speaker.
Have to google how to do it correctly though.
Should be simple. And if you mount it in the right spot, could drill a hole in the internal back case so you can adjust it to taste later without taking everything apart.

Also they probably used the cheapest speaker they could to save money.
I might try a high end cell phone speaker (the extra speaker used to listen to MP3s and such, not the earpiece) and see how it sounds.
I replaced my MR speaker with one and it made it louder.
 
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<<<<<<My AVATAR is from a Lost in Space control panel but uses the same patterns as the Trek Comm with just a mask over it creating that freaky effect.
 
<<<<<<My AVATAR is from a Lost in Space control panel but uses the same patterns as the Trek Comm with just a mask over it creating that freaky effect.

INDEED you are correct. :lol

And actually since "Lost in Space" preceded Star Trek, I guess you could say Trek stole the idea! Although I would not say that personally. :sleep
 
Interestingly enough TNG got to use these kind of patterns and things in their displays. The wave motions and things you saw on displays used a techinique called polar motion. Spinning polarized discs in front of or behind other images. We used them in the Exhibit Business a lot too.
 
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