Thanks guys! I marked them with a sharpie right at the point they exit the comm.....then took it apart, once inside you will see the originals are just pressure fit onto some rubber boots, pulled them off and cut off the tops on the lines I marked.....sanded off the step on the back of the t-jets so they were flat, glued into place and reversed the procedure! the end result was worth it........this and Phase Pistol's mods make it really cool! and only take a few mins!! + it's fun!!! :cool
AA/Diamond $20 Star Trek Communicator: modified with metal parts
- Thread starter phase pistol
- Start date
Thanks guys! I marked them with a sharpie right at the point they exit the comm.....then took it apart, once inside you will see the originals are just pressure fit onto some rubber boots, pulled them off and cut off the tops on the lines I marked.....sanded off the step on the back of the t-jets so they were flat, glued into place and reversed the procedure! the end result was worth it........this and Phase Pistol's mods make it really cool! and only take a few mins!! + it's fun!!! :cool
Excellent work on the buttons. I may try that myself. :thumbsup
On the train wheels, I don't really know. They were just some extra parts from a comm kit that I had. They aren't accurate to the prop communicators but thay have a larger hole in the middle to let light through.
Coyle's site says "HO scale train wheels" but this page is from years ago and predates all the Herocomm findings
http://www.racprops.com/issue5/classiccomm/pg2.php
You might just tray using some Thunderjet hubs and see if that works for you. The LEDs are pretty bright, so it may let enough light through. Or you could try flat washers as bezels.
On the train wheels, I don't really know. They were just some extra parts from a comm kit that I had. They aren't accurate to the prop communicators but thay have a larger hole in the middle to let light through.
Coyle's site says "HO scale train wheels" but this page is from years ago and predates all the Herocomm findings
http://www.racprops.com/issue5/classiccomm/pg2.php
You might just tray using some Thunderjet hubs and see if that works for you. The LEDs are pretty bright, so it may let enough light through. Or you could try flat washers as bezels.
Thanks bro! I tried the t-jets.....too small and fall throught the holes! I'll check out the Hobby store and if all else fails I will just use some some small washers!!! : )
Well the train wheels fit perfectly in the jewel holes. Which is proof that the diameter is too large, but no matter. :lol
I did however run into a snag on my latest round of mods... it seems these tiny tiny screws that hold the insides of the comm together, they must be made of soft lead or something. Because after three trips into the depths of the comm, I can no longer get the screws out. :confused
Evidently my screwdriver has worn out the Phillips head "X" on top of each screw. Because I can't get it to "bite" anymore to turn them.
Without getting those screws out, I canna mod my comm naemore. What to do? :cry
I did however run into a snag on my latest round of mods... it seems these tiny tiny screws that hold the insides of the comm together, they must be made of soft lead or something. Because after three trips into the depths of the comm, I can no longer get the screws out. :confused
Evidently my screwdriver has worn out the Phillips head "X" on top of each screw. Because I can't get it to "bite" anymore to turn them.
Without getting those screws out, I canna mod my comm naemore. What to do? :cry
Vaderman
Sr Member
Yikes, Does that mean you can't change the batteries either?
You could try a screw extractor, though I have never seen one that small.
You could drill it out but you'd have to rebuild the area the screw goes into and replace the screws.
You could try to cut a new slot in the heads with a tiny dremel (or, if they really are very soft, maybe an exacto blade.) Then use a flat head to extract them.
You could try using JB Weld or epoxy to attach a "handle" to the stripped screw heads and then turn them out.
The last one is what I'd try first.
Good luck!
You could try a screw extractor, though I have never seen one that small.
You could drill it out but you'd have to rebuild the area the screw goes into and replace the screws.
You could try to cut a new slot in the heads with a tiny dremel (or, if they really are very soft, maybe an exacto blade.) Then use a flat head to extract them.
You could try using JB Weld or epoxy to attach a "handle" to the stripped screw heads and then turn them out.
The last one is what I'd try first.
Good luck!
Some interesting ideas there Vaderman. I may first try to find a slightly larger screwdriver... it does look like the phillips head pattern is still there, only the center was drilled out by my, heh, overexuberant screwing. Drivering. Whatever. :$
I should have clarified, these are the tiny internal screws that hold the "inner back shell" to the front shell. The bigger screws that hold the outer back shell on (for changing batteries) are still OK and that's not a problem.
Now if ony I could somehow generate a static warp shell, and thus break through to the subspace domain... but first the ships in the other two time periods have to stop their tachyon pulse scanning.... :confused
- k
I should have clarified, these are the tiny internal screws that hold the "inner back shell" to the front shell. The bigger screws that hold the outer back shell on (for changing batteries) are still OK and that's not a problem.
Now if ony I could somehow generate a static warp shell, and thus break through to the subspace domain... but first the ships in the other two time periods have to stop their tachyon pulse scanning.... :confused
- k
You'd have to modify the deflector dish first.
That never works!!! :cry
But... If I were to use the Bussard Collectors as a verteron projector, and reroute main EPS power through the warp plasma conduits... yes.... YES....
NakedMoleRat
Legendary Member
You can only reroute verteron particles through a bio-nueral gel pack, and those are only on the newer ships. For the older vessels, I recommend you try a reversed polarity ion particle accelerator, THAT should do the trick!
darthgordon
Sr Member
I don't think you can route verteron particles through anything.
The prophets used verteron particles to make the Bajoran wormhole stable. So they are an exotic material which has a negative energy density. These particles may exist at the event horizon of a singularity, but since Starfleet has yet make any stable wormholes of their own, I can only conclude that they have no way to collect them.
What does this have to do with a communicator?
Try replacing the duotronic relay between the subspace transeiver and the transtator.
The prophets used verteron particles to make the Bajoran wormhole stable. So they are an exotic material which has a negative energy density. These particles may exist at the event horizon of a singularity, but since Starfleet has yet make any stable wormholes of their own, I can only conclude that they have no way to collect them.
What does this have to do with a communicator?
Try replacing the duotronic relay between the subspace transeiver and the transtator.
It's not like the old days. Scotty would pull a couple of banana plugs out of a wall panel, and suddenly the warp drive would be working again. :sleep
Jack T Chance
Sr Member
Actually, looking at your avatar, I would think the answer would be crystal clear...
zap it with the sonic screwdriver and hope it doesn't have a deadlock seal!
NakedMoleRat
Legendary Member
Actually, looking at your avatar, I would think the answer would be crystal clear...
zap it with the sonic screwdriver and hope it doesn't have a deadlock seal!
Well, I WAS trying to go Trek on this one! Heck, even Rose asked for a little "Spock" in The empty child! :lol
OK I'm still working on the STTE part of my own Frankencomm project... but for now here is the other half: the gutted shell of my original modified AA comm, but with some added spiff-ups.
The flipgrid and speaker grille have been brush-painted a light gold (Krylon bottled touch-up enamel). THe innards have been removed, but I glued the cut-down stumps of the control buttons to the back of the face shell, and then glued T-jet hubs to those parts.
And of course the moire disc has been replaced yet again, this time with a printout of Herocomm's "TMOST" pattern.
The flipgrid and speaker grille have been brush-painted a light gold (Krylon bottled touch-up enamel). THe innards have been removed, but I glued the cut-down stumps of the control buttons to the back of the face shell, and then glued T-jet hubs to those parts.
And of course the moire disc has been replaced yet again, this time with a printout of Herocomm's "TMOST" pattern.
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Blackbirdcd
Well-Known Member
So far the AA/DST Comm is my favorite "out of the box" - it's got the best flip and sound.
(don't own an MR, though).
(don't own an MR, though).
The MR is of course the finest of all three, but sells for $400 on ebay these days. :rolleyes
The MR has the haircell pattern going the correct way on the shells (it's turned 90 degrees on the STTE and AA). The moire is clear and bright, and motor noise is minimal. Sound is good.
My hope though is that my STTE/AA Frankencomm fusion will be the next best thing.
The MR has the haircell pattern going the correct way on the shells (it's turned 90 degrees on the STTE and AA). The moire is clear and bright, and motor noise is minimal. Sound is good.
My hope though is that my STTE/AA Frankencomm fusion will be the next best thing.
