8T88
New Member
Thank you!
Sadly I have to retroactively go back and fix stuff I thought was done, so far I have been able to avoid modifying the skull mostly because I don't want to print it again but everything else is fair game lol
8T88 from Star Wars Dark Forces 2
- Thread starter 8T88
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Sadly I have to retroactively go back and fix stuff I thought was done, so far I have been able to avoid modifying the skull mostly because I don't want to print it again but everything else is fair game lol
8T88
New Member
Taking a bit of a break from 88 because I hit a roadblock trying to remake the projector dome, think I figured out how to fix it but wanted to start another model.
Making an RC TX-225 Occupier Tank for the 6 inch figures for a possible future fan film idea. So far it is only a few hours of work, mostly taking measurements from the vintage collection version and will scale it up later when done. I don't want or need the kyber crystal boxes on the back so I will not be adding the locking blocks for them, I'll also be giving it different one piece lid on the back for hiding the battery.
I live near a lake people go ice fishing on in the winter and thought it would be cool to record the thing driving around out there, possibly build the exterior of an outpost in my backyard for it to drive into, and then figure out the rest later if I get that far. I'm also considering popping the tank open so I can get pictures of the various control panels to model and print full sized.
If anyone is interested I'll add updates for the TX-225 here and there.
Anyway back to 88 tomorrow night.
Making an RC TX-225 Occupier Tank for the 6 inch figures for a possible future fan film idea. So far it is only a few hours of work, mostly taking measurements from the vintage collection version and will scale it up later when done. I don't want or need the kyber crystal boxes on the back so I will not be adding the locking blocks for them, I'll also be giving it different one piece lid on the back for hiding the battery.
I live near a lake people go ice fishing on in the winter and thought it would be cool to record the thing driving around out there, possibly build the exterior of an outpost in my backyard for it to drive into, and then figure out the rest later if I get that far. I'm also considering popping the tank open so I can get pictures of the various control panels to model and print full sized.
If anyone is interested I'll add updates for the TX-225 here and there.
Anyway back to 88 tomorrow night.
8T88
New Member
The interior of the projector dome is slowly coming along and a lot of it is very much still placeholder for the time being.
I may print the outer shell tomorrow just to see how much room I have to work with because Ideally I'd like to stick a 9g servo motor in there for moving the lens around, It looks like it will fit but I want to be 100% sure it will. I'm not a big fan of the vertical bar..., I'm leaning towards giving it a more unique look while remaining functional since it will probably be receiving the end of a rod for the pivot point.
Leaving it for tomorrow to figure out.
Also tomorrow some new pictures of printed parts to show how the build is going, plus something I noticed in screenshots while fixing parts in an attempt to make him look more screen accurate which only complicated things.
I may print the outer shell tomorrow just to see how much room I have to work with because Ideally I'd like to stick a 9g servo motor in there for moving the lens around, It looks like it will fit but I want to be 100% sure it will. I'm not a big fan of the vertical bar..., I'm leaning towards giving it a more unique look while remaining functional since it will probably be receiving the end of a rod for the pivot point.
Leaving it for tomorrow to figure out.
Also tomorrow some new pictures of printed parts to show how the build is going, plus something I noticed in screenshots while fixing parts in an attempt to make him look more screen accurate which only complicated things.
8T88
New Member
Printed parts so far, still has the old jaws though.
I have since made the top right eye larger bringing it closer to the correct size just haven't had the time to print it.
Something I noticed is that there seems to be a plate which connects the jaws together I'll have to add but I also noticed the left chin sensor has a taper to it, I think thins out to the overhanging side so I need to revisit it and while I'm at it see if I can't move the fins out more closer to the edge.
Also found an orange juice lid and cheap screw driver lid that work well and lock together, I'm thinking I'll stick them in the bowl if I decide to add anything to it.
Well that's all I have for now.
Back to work on the projector dome.
I have since made the top right eye larger bringing it closer to the correct size just haven't had the time to print it.
Something I noticed is that there seems to be a plate which connects the jaws together I'll have to add but I also noticed the left chin sensor has a taper to it, I think thins out to the overhanging side so I need to revisit it and while I'm at it see if I can't move the fins out more closer to the edge.
Also found an orange juice lid and cheap screw driver lid that work well and lock together, I'm thinking I'll stick them in the bowl if I decide to add anything to it.
Well that's all I have for now.
Back to work on the projector dome.
jarodpenn
Well-Known Member
8T88
New Member
I had to make some modifications to the projector dome like shrinking screw holes, accommodate for some warping, bulk up the slider and the lens attachment point, remove some pointless overhangs, move an indexing point. I think that's about it.
I'll start printing again tomorrow and show the before and after differences with parts when I have them.
I'll start printing again tomorrow and show the before and after differences with parts when I have them.
8T88
New Member
So had parts printing yesterday but had to make some changes which I was able to print today.
I printed the frame and decided the overhanging bits on the bottom plate where the "flashlight" goes weren't needed and served no purpose so I removed them.
(Version 1)
I then printed the pivot plate out standing up on the print bed which caused warping, after trying it on the skull I found out it was binding up pretty bad which at the time I figured it was because it warp so I went modified the model to give some extra room where I thought it was getting stuck.
(Version 2)
I removed the overhangs I then also removed the indexing tab from the frame putting it instead on the pivot plate.
After getting the pivot plate printed out I found that fit better but was still dealing with what I still thought was warping even after I flared the bottom part of the tracks out, so I carved it out some to see if it made any difference but nope. I then carved the whole thing out and it was still binding up.
I then got the idea to put a few marks on the skull part of the track with permanent marker, forced it to turn a bunch, pulled it off and saw that it was binding on the bottom edge even though I had given both parts enough room.
so I had to go rework the pivot plate track model more.
(Version 3)
No changes to the frame were made other then opening the channels for the track to fit.
The only real change I had to make was to the pivot track, also printed it so it was laying on the print bed.
Tried it on the skull and it turned perfectly.
Some side by sides.
Top to bottom versions 1,2, and 3 of the slider for the "flashlight".
Now that it actually works as intended I can move on and get the other parts printed.
Going to get it glued together tomorrow after I print the outer shell and can try it.
I still have some parts to fix: the neck(to fit a known size pipe), the chin, the chin sensors, and the headband.
Well that's all I've got for now, more pictures soon.
I printed the frame and decided the overhanging bits on the bottom plate where the "flashlight" goes weren't needed and served no purpose so I removed them.
(Version 1)
I then printed the pivot plate out standing up on the print bed which caused warping, after trying it on the skull I found out it was binding up pretty bad which at the time I figured it was because it warp so I went modified the model to give some extra room where I thought it was getting stuck.
(Version 2)
I removed the overhangs I then also removed the indexing tab from the frame putting it instead on the pivot plate.
After getting the pivot plate printed out I found that fit better but was still dealing with what I still thought was warping even after I flared the bottom part of the tracks out, so I carved it out some to see if it made any difference but nope. I then carved the whole thing out and it was still binding up.
I then got the idea to put a few marks on the skull part of the track with permanent marker, forced it to turn a bunch, pulled it off and saw that it was binding on the bottom edge even though I had given both parts enough room.
so I had to go rework the pivot plate track model more.
(Version 3)
No changes to the frame were made other then opening the channels for the track to fit.
The only real change I had to make was to the pivot track, also printed it so it was laying on the print bed.
Tried it on the skull and it turned perfectly.
Some side by sides.
Top to bottom versions 1,2, and 3 of the slider for the "flashlight".
Now that it actually works as intended I can move on and get the other parts printed.
Going to get it glued together tomorrow after I print the outer shell and can try it.
I still have some parts to fix: the neck(to fit a known size pipe), the chin, the chin sensors, and the headband.
Well that's all I've got for now, more pictures soon.
jarodpenn
Well-Known Member
So I wonder if 30 years ago they ever thought we’d still be so obsessed with this game and that 3d printing would have come so far as to allow us to do this kind of this with their creations in our own homes. This is the stuff I ponder.
8T88
New Member
Yeah it's hard to say
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