3d Printable Vader Helmet File

Well I must apologize for the delay... Been crazy busy with several different projects... But here is where I am at so far. Quite a bit of progress. Dome, mask, and shoulder armour fully printed.
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The main printed stuff is now complete. There is of course 2 shin guards. I even printed a light saber for fun.

The weather looks like it will be turning nice so I can start on the body filler and painting etc

saber1.jpgsaber2.jpgshin1.jpgshin2.jpgshin3.jpg
 
Next on the docket is the chestbox and belt boxes. I have the chestbox modelled out ready for print. I will be buying the aluminium rods on the sides. The center flat part is one stl, the coin slots are another and the frame is another. Lights will be coming from ebay as well.
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Here is the printing chestbox and belt box fronts. The coin slots and rocker switches are separate so they can be painted without making a mess on the rest.

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That looks superb. Makes me want to buy a 3d printer now. Is the plastic that's used in it expensive to buy?
How much do you think it has cost in materials to build the helmet? Thanks. :)
 
That looks superb. Makes me want to buy a 3d printer now. Is the plastic that's used in it expensive to buy?
How much do you think it has cost in materials to build the helmet? Thanks. :)

The helmet material cost was maybe $60

- - - Updated - - -

More helmet pics... Mask portion is so close I can taste it... or maybe that is just paint overspray lol. The dome has its first layer of bond applied and sanded.
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Black sections have now been added in... 2 little touch ups on the forehead tonight, a quick wet sand then the clearcoat goes on.

IMG_1062.JPG i don't know why it keeps rotating my pics. They are correct on my machine.
 
Looking for ideas how to mount the dome to the top of this helmet securely.

The fin on the mask (for lack of a better word) kinda fits into the grove in the dome that runs down the center. So that centers it on the mask side to side... The challenge is front to back and making it stable. I am thinking about epoxying some 1 3/4" bolts to the top of the dome and drilling slots down through the fin then I could essentially lock the dome down... Assuming I can sneak my head in. I think I will be able to.
 
Looking for ideas how to mount the dome to the top of this helmet securely.

The fin on the mask (for lack of a better word) kinda fits into the grove in the dome that runs down the center. So that centers it on the mask side to side... The challenge is front to back and making it stable. I am thinking about epoxying some 1 3/4" bolts to the top of the dome and drilling slots down through the fin then I could essentially lock the dome down... Assuming I can sneak my head in. I think I will be able to.

velcro or magnets come to mind....great build btw :D
 
I am thinking some velcro up front on the brow and some heavy duty hard drive magnets in a couple place to keep it all aligned. Was looking at it last night and the bolts to line everything up might be a real challenge.

Does anyone have a template for a ROTS foam cod piece... I am having a hard time finding something that doesnt look like crap. or and Vader cod piece template and I can modify it.
 
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So finally got my lenses and tusks from Fenix. Excellent stuff! They are the flat ROTS lenses. They will require a slight bend to mount in to the eye hold properly. Any tips or suggestions for bending the lens? I was thinking my heat gun to warm it up the hold in place while it cools. I am hoping they will retain their shape that way.
 
A heat gun should do the trick. To be on the safe side and protect your helmet, I'd consider printing a buck to mold the lenses.

Take 3D model of the eye piece, print just the part around the lenses, facing down, inside facing up. Put the lenses over that and heat them with the heat gun, they should droop and mold perfectly to the "eye holes".
If you mess up and get the printed part too hot, at least you'll only damage a throw away buck, and not that glorious helmet :)
 
I put my lenses in by heating them with a heat gun and then pressing them in place. I think FP uses a thinner plastic so I don't see any issues with doing the same thing. It shouldn't be hot enough to do any damage to the mask either!
 
I heated them up with my heat gun on low outside the mask, then quickly set them in and pressed into place. Took like 5 minutes for both. Then I hot glued in to place.

The thin material fenix uses makes it nice and easy to press it in nice and tight... It will take some getting used to looking thru them tho as its not perfectly clear like sunglasses.
 
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