10th doctors intermediate sonic build.

tobor

Active Member
I’ve had a sonic screwdriver project sitting on the shelf for a few years now. It basically needed a new head and collar, end cap and acrylic rod.
I decided to cannibalise a Wand Company sonic for the parts I needed. I didn’t use any electronics from the WC sonic. I put in a new LED and two yellow wires connected to the battery compartment and switch. So now, it’s basically a torch.

As the ridges on the body weren’t accurate to the tenant A and B props, I decided to make the intermediate version. This won’t be 100% accurate, for a start the slider slot should be wider. The body is made from steel, and trying to widen it with hand files was just too difficult.

Still, if I can achieve a paint job to match the original, I think it will be a reasonable representation of the prop.
isonic001.jpg

isonic002.jpg

isonic003.jpg

isonic004.jpg

isonic005.jpg

isonic006.jpg

isonic007.jpg


The paint job is where I could do with some help. The only crackle effect I’ve done is with Plastikote spray cans, which is not appropriate for this prop.

I’ve just ordered some Aleenes 2 step Crackle paint. I’ve never used anything like this before, so will have to practice and get my technique right before attempting to paint the sonic.
Does anyone know what was used on the actual body shown in the picture below? I’ve seen some very nice results from people using Aleenes crackle, but I would rather use the same stuff that was used on the prop, if it was different.
isonic008.jpg
 
I still have the original head and collar. The Machining on the head was a little off so I wanted to replace it.
 
Great work, looks really nice!
Does it have the magnetic end cap from the wand company sonic or did you use a different end cap and put a magnet in it?
 
The end cap is from the Wand Company sonic.
I’ve just painted it with Aleenes crackle. I’m happy with the shape and size of the crackle, but I made it too bold. The cracks are too dark and the background colour is too white. I do actually like the bold look and may leave it as it is.
I’m just getting the hang of using Aleenes crackle. I have a couple more sonics to paint and this time I’ll do a more subtle finish.

isonic009.jpg

isonic010.jpg

isonic011.jpg

isonic012.jpg

isonic013.jpg

isonic014.jpg
 
Looks great! Question though - for the Aztec conversion you did, what did you use for the crackle paint? Plastikote?

Thanks,
Aeric
 
Have you tried grey boot polish for the cracks instead? You can buy it from places like John Lewis. re getting the right cracks, the one step product produces smaller cracks. This is a great build. I've always liked this version as I think the slider works the best. How did you make the slider?
 
Hi CapKaos, yes I did use Plastikote colony cream with a gold base coat for the Aztec.
Hi Muldwych, I didn’t know you could get grey boot polish; I’ve only seen black and dark tan in my local stores. Thanks for the info, I just got some grey polish on eBay, which just arrived today. I’ve got another sonic ready to paint; I’ll put some pictures up when I’m done. Could you tell me what one step crackle you’re referring to? Have you used it yourself with any success?
You asked about the slider switch Muldwych. It was made from a piece of acrylic tube (32mm diameter, 3mm wall thickness). I just cut a section out of it, shaped it and made a recess to fit over the original slider switch. I drilled and countersunk two holes and glued some small screw heads in place, to match the original prop.
isonic015.jpg
 
Thanks for the info on the slider switch. Just another question, what filler did you use at the ridge end of the slot? and how does the screw trigger the light? Did you file the threads?

Re the crackle, its called 'One Step Crackle' I bought it on ebay. Yes, it has worked on my test peices after quite a few goes to get the technquie. All the info I found on the following link with added tips. Good luck with the grey bootpolish, I tried various shades by mixing a bit of the black with it.

M
 
I didn’t use any filler, it’s a piece of styrene super glued in place, then sanded to match the profile.
There’s a small switch in the battery compartment (like the one on the Aztec). The screw just pushes down on this. I put a little dab of epoxy on the end of the screw which holds it in place. I didn’t file the threads, the only thing I did to the screw, was cut it to length.
Thanks for the link. That’s an amazing job by kursosawa, but 10 tries to get it right, I don’t think I’ve got the patience.
I’ve painted another sonic body. This time instead of using white primer I used grey. I then gave it a light coat of white, so the base colour wasn’t as white as before. I used grey polish to fill in the cracks. The result is a much more subtle difference than I thought it would be.
isonic016.jpg

isonic017.jpg
 
Last edited:
I’ve had a sonic screwdriver project sitting on the shelf for a few years now. It basically needed a new head and collar, end cap and acrylic rod.
I decided to cannibalise a Wand Company sonic for the parts I needed. I didn’t use any electronics from the WC sonic. I put in a new LED and two yellow wires connected to the battery compartment and switch. So now, it’s basically a torch.

As the ridges on the body weren’t accurate to the tenant A and B props, I decided to make the intermediate version. This won’t be 100% accurate, for a start the slider slot should be wider. The body is made from steel, and trying to widen it with hand files was just too difficult.

Still, if I can achieve a paint job to match the original, I think it will be a reasonable representation of the prop.
http://www.tobor2.com/temp/isonic001.jpg
http://www.tobor2.com/temp/isonic002.jpg
http://www.tobor2.com/temp/isonic003.jpg
http://www.tobor2.com/temp/isonic004.jpg
http://www.tobor2.com/temp/isonic005.jpg
http://www.tobor2.com/temp/isonic006.jpg
http://www.tobor2.com/temp/isonic007.jpg

The paint job is where I could do with some help. The only crackle effect I’ve done is with Plastikote spray cans, which is not appropriate for this prop.

I’ve just ordered some Aleenes 2 step Crackle paint. I’ve never used anything like this before, so will have to practice and get my technique right before attempting to paint the sonic.
Does anyone know what was used on the actual body shown in the picture below? I’ve seen some very nice results from people using Aleenes crackle, but I would rather use the same stuff that was used on the prop, if it was different.
http://www.tobor2.com/temp/isonic008.jpg
I found another thread in which it is said the actual prop did use aleenes crackle effect but with another greyish paint layer
 
I found another thread in which it is said the actual prop did use aleenes crackle effect but with another greyish paint layer

I think you are right here what it looks like to me is:

1) etch primer (cream colour)
2) grey primer (or regular paint)
3) crackle effect/ paint mix

I'm not sure how aleenes is used but it looks like the cracks leave the grey base coat visible - hence a much lighter pattern.
 
I think you are right here what it looks like to me is:

1) etch primer (cream colour)
2) grey primer (or regular paint)
3) crackle effect/ paint mix

I'm not sure how aleenes is used but it looks like the cracks leave the grey base coat visible - hence a much lighter pattern.
I agree, tobor needs to paint over it, it looks to bold, it should be painted more greyish
 
He doesn't NEED to do anything. Just because you like things screen accurate 100% doesn't mean he has to. If he feels he wants it lighter he will do exactly that!
 
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