1:48 Scale Y Wing

Discussion in 'General Modeling' started by Flintlock, Aug 2, 2004.

  1. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    As some of you probably know, I have been involved with (off and on) identifying the model kits used in building the ILM Studio Y Wing for quite a while. Recently, I have become very interested in building a model of the Y Wing half this size. Why, you ask? Mainly because it's cheaper, would be a great companion to the ERTL X Wing, TIE Fighter, and TIE Interceptor, reproducing it in resin several times would be a bit more feasible, and I wanted to have something much more accurate to the original than the SMT Y Wing. I have done extensive research on this, and have learned a lot... but I am not done yet! As soon as I get back to my home (should be NOV-DEC), I will start opening kits (1/72 armor and 1/48 aircraft) and taking pictures of what is in there. If anyone is interested, or has something to contribute, please post! Some of you out there will find that it is much cheaper, and much more practical to build a Y Wing this size, vice the studio sized one. I will soon submit another post on some of the preliminary info I have found, so check back!
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2008
  2. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    What I wanted to be able to do is scratchbuild/kitbash a Y Wing that is 1/2 the size of the ILM Studio Y Wing, and had very similar details. To do this, one needs to know what kits were used on the studio model, and search for kits that are half the scale (mostly 1/72 armor kits - which is not exact, but close enough). This has been done before by a couple of people, namely SMT and Rafael Mateo. SMT's Y Wing (http://www.starshipmodeler.com/starwars/jc_ywing.htm), while a very nice kit, is not very accurate when it comes to details. Rafael Mateo's Y (http://www.starshipmodeler.com/starwars/rm_ywing.htm), however, is a beautiful model and looks to be pretty close detail-wise to the studio model. In reporting what I have found, I want to start by naming some of the kits one would NOT find...

    1/288 Saturn V - The ILM model used Airfix 1/144 scale Saturn V rocket kits, as is well known. AMT had a "man in space" pro shop model kit that had a 1/200 scale Saturn V in it. I have this kit and it is not the right size. I found a 1/290 scale Saturn V by Cashulette Engineering Co. but it is all one piece and looks more like a toy (does anyone have this model?). All in all, one could just get some plastic tube of the correct diameter (1 3/8" I think) and use that pretty nicely. I plan to get Plastruct tubes, and modify some of the pieces from the AMT pro shop model for mine. There is also a part on the top/rear detail of the Y. The AMT model may be good enough for this part.

    1/144 Sealab III - The 1/72 Sealab used on the ILM model is hard enough to find, and I think one could be pretty certain that there is no 1/144 scale kit that has the same pieces.

    1/18 Kettenkraftrad - The DML 1/9 Kettenkrad proved to contribute to the elusive "dome struts" on the ILM model. To my knowledge, there is no 1/18 scale version.

    1/144 Schools Class Harrow - the Airfix/Kitmaster/Dapol Harrow is a valuable kit for both the X Wing and Y Wing studio models, and I am pretty sure there was no kit half the size produced.

    1/50 Centurion - I recently found out that the Tamiya 1/25 Centurion contributes more parts to the ILM model than I had previously thought. I think it is safe to bet that there is no 1/50 equivalent with all the same parts.

    There are some others that have a slim chance, but I am still investigating them. If you have any info on these, please share!

    1/72 M1 155mm Howitzer or equivalent
    1/48 Harrier (there are several kits, but none that I know of that has engine parts)
    1/48 Shiden

    The rest, believe it or not, have a suitable half-size exact or close counterpart, or are easy enough to scratch build.

    Rear Plate Detail - I don't think it was ever pinned down exactly what kit was used on the studio model. The closest I've seen to the exact detail is a Tamiya 1/35 King Tiger. This detail could also be from a Jagdtiger. There are plenty of 1/72 kits that have nice detail to be used here on a 1/48 scale Y Wing. The Revell Germany 1/72 Panther G looks real nice, but I am going with either the Italeri King Tiger, or the Revell Germany King Tiger.

    Sides of the Neck - The Tamiya 1/35 Panzerspahwagen SdKfz 232 (8Rad) was used on the studio model for either side of the "neck" right before the head. Airfix has a 1/72 kit called "German 8 Wheeled Armored Car". I have not been able to find any pictures of the underside of this kit to see if it is right. However, if it is not right, there are some ways around this particular detail. Anyone have any pictures of the parts of this kit?

    "Dome Strut Box" - The box part of the "dome struts" on the ILM model was found to be from the Tamiya 1/35 PzKpfw III Ausf M/N. There is a 1/72 kit from ESCI that has all the same parts from this kit! There are more parts than just the box that is used, but it has them all! I am not certain about the availability of this kit, as it is an old one, so I went for a Revell Germany 1/72 PzKpfw IV Ausf H. instead. This kit has only the box detail, and it needs to be cut free from the surrounding turret. It also has shovels that are an almost exact copy of the ones used for the ILM model. Another kit that has the box detail is the Italeri 1/72 PzKpfw IV Ausf G. This has to be cut out as well.

    Some of the ILM studio models use "exhaust canisters" (I think that's what they are) from a 1/35 Tiger I kit on the wings, in place of the track links from the DML 1/9 Kettenkrad. The Revell Germany 1/72 PzKpfw VI Tiger I Ausf H has these "canisters" and could be used perfectly well. However, Rafael Mateo seems to have found some track links to fit his 1/48 Y. Rafael, if you are out there, please enlighten us!

    There are pretty significant parts on the ILM Y Wing that come from the DML 1/15 Hummel. Is there a 1/35 counterpart to this (1/35 being as close as one can get)? It turns out that DML itself recently released a 1/35 Hummel (initial version) that has most of the parts used, only half the size. As far as I can tell from pictures I have found, the parts need only some slight modification to be just right.

    I thought I was not going to be able to find the engine parts from a 1/48 Hurricane. The engine block halves, oil pans, and valve covers from the Airfix 1/24 Hawker Hurricane are used on the ILM model. These are some really prominent pieces. I knew from owning other 1/24 planes that some other props had used the same engine. After posting a question on some Plane Talking message board, I was told that the ICM 1/48 Spitfire Mk 9 kit has these engine parts in them, only 1/48 scale. The oil pans from this kit are close, but not right on. The engine block halves look kinda weird, and may not be usable... then again they might. The valve covers are right on as far as I can tell.

    There are still some loose ends to tie up, and if enough people are interested then it will happen. Some others I didn't mention are Messerschmitt landing gears for the "dome struts". Any 1/48 Messerschmitt should have landing gears close enough, but there is also part of the propeller that needs to be used. The engine halves from this kit are also used on the bottom of the Y Wing, but I am not sure if there are any 1/48 Messer's with engines. I also didn't mention the 1/12 JPS part on top of the rear detail area. I plan on using a 1/20 Tyrrell part and modifying it, or just scratchbuilding it.

    That is pretty much all I have right now, even though I may have forgotten one or two things. If any of you out there have any ideas/confirmations/pictures/anything please share. 1/72 kits are relatively inexpensive. I bought 6 1/72 armor kits, and the 1/35 Hummel and spent about $80. With a couple of airplane kits, and some styrene sheets and shapes, most of the crucial parts would cost about $160. That contrasts to the thousand or so you could spend on kits for a studio scale replica, and these kits are easily obtainable. Plus, you can make a fleet of nicely-sized Y Wings to complement your X Wings, and not fill up your living room with klunky, studio-sized Y Wings!
     
  3. Treadwell

    Treadwell Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Very cool project. You face the same decisions and dilemmas of the ILMers who made the 32" Falcon for ESB.
     
  4. Jedi Dade

    Jedi Dade Sr Member

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    Well they just said... screw it... it will look good enough as a streaking blur flying throough asteroids that nobody will ever know the difference. They never counted on "us" [​IMG]

    This is an awesome project though. I have a whole bunch of 1/72 and some 1/144 armor kits to look through for you whan I get home. I've been trying to do something similar to this for building a detail kit for the ERTL falcon...going that it is almost 1/2 scale to the ESB 32" falcon [​IMG] I might have something you can use.

    Jedi Dade
     
  5. wizardofflight

    wizardofflight Well-Known Member

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    I would be willing to do detailed CAD drawings for such a project. I have some experience reverse engineering from photos.

    http://www.angelfire.com/scifi2/wizardofflight/

    The Protector and the Enterprise were done almost completely from photos.

    Let me know if youÂ’re interested.

    Alan
     
  6. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    Treadwell, right you are! This project is very reminiscent of that project... and in the opposite direction, they did the 4 foot X Wing.

    Alan, I took a look at your site... nice drawings! I already have some preliminary drawings for the basic shape of the body, however. The only thing I can't really do now is take some measurements from the kit pieces that ILM used. If you want to make some as well, then no one is stopping you. Do you have many reference photos to use? Pay close attention... there are some subtle angles that I see many people not get quite right. Thanks for the input, guys! I will post more when I get it.
     
  7. 1138

    1138 Well-Known Member

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    Flintlock, sent you a PM.

    Dan
     
  8. phase pistol

    phase pistol Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Alan's "Public Resource Enterprise" is spectacular! [​IMG]

    - Karl
     
  9. wizardofflight

    wizardofflight Well-Known Member

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  10. Treadwell

    Treadwell Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Cool! What is naptha and where does one get it?

    Another technique is using dental alginate as a casting medium. It shrinks.
     
  11. wizardofflight

    wizardofflight Well-Known Member

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    Hello

    Naptha or naphthalene is a great solvent, but it also is lighter fluid.

    http://shop.store.yahoo.com/cinemasupplies/zipligfluidn.html

    It apparently act as a filler for the silicone. Once the silicone sets, you remove the master and let the naptha evaporate, as it does it the mold shrinks. There is no apparent mold degradation, no idea on the effect of mold life though.

    Alan
     
  12. HOBBIT 7

    HOBBIT 7 New Member

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    Hi,
    Here's a qustion that comes to mind is just about how much does the mold shrink? Half?

    Hobbit 7
     
  13. jcuri1

    jcuri1 New Member

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    Flintlock
    The 1/48 tamiya sea harrier has the full engine set just like the 1/24 airfix or mpc...
    John C
     
  14. wizardofflight

    wizardofflight Well-Known Member

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    "Here's a qustion that comes to mind is just about how much does the mold shrink? Half?

    Hobbit 7"

    He is still working out that part. It is a volumetric reduction so roughly if you mix 50/50 you would get a volume reduction of 50% when the naptha evaporates. Unfortunately it is not a linear reduction.

    One of the later posts talks about the equations.

    There is a picture of the 1/48 Harrier engine here http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/Fea1/801-900/Fea840_Harrier_Rao/fea840.htm

    Alan
     
  15. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    Hello

    I am sorry, but I have not looked at this post in so long!

    THANK YOU VERY MUCH, guys for posting all the tips you posted. I am sure they will be very helpful. Especially this Napthalene stuff... Who would have thought? I may just have to get some of that... apparently it "fills" the silicon, and then evaporates as it separates, leaving the mold to "collapse" volumetrically and create a smaller mold. Ingenious!

    I do have some more info on kits...

    The Airfix 1/72 Armored Car is NOT a good choice for the side neck pieces. There is, however, a 1/72 SdKfz 232 made by Roden (a Russian company) that is pretty good. Some styrene may need to be added here and there, and some may need to be trimmed out to make it like the larger version, but size-wise it is exactly half. John C, thanks for the tip on the Tamiya Harrier. I saw that one in a store here in Japan, so I may go back and pick it up. 3 MORE WEEKS TO GO!

    Once again, thanks guys!
     
  16. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    Alan, did you do the perspective sketches of the Buck Rogers Starfighters on your site? They are nice! Would you consider doing one of the Y Wing?
     
  17. wizardofflight

    wizardofflight Well-Known Member

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    No I can't take credit for those. They are pre-production drawings done for the TV show. I believe the illustratorÂ’s name is David Jones, but I haven't been able to confirm this.
     
  18. balta1

    balta1 New Member

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    Hello all,
    I've also been thinking about doing a Y-Wing for some time now and I guess now would be a good time to start. I have some pics that describe the parts that Rafael Mateo used for his Y-wing. I would also appreciate any info anybody could give as well.
    TIA
     
  19. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    It's high time to resurrect this thread...

    I guess I owe a big apology for dropping into obscurity without any explanation. I'm not going to have a lot of time to work on this project, but I decided to start it anyway with what I have and work on it when I get a little time here and there.

    I can post pictures of what I found so far... It's not much, but I think it is sufficient to do a good kitbash.

    For starters, I wish I had 2 Cashulette Engineering 1/290 Apollo Saturn V's. The AMT "Man in Space" kit is too big (1/200). I think, however, that the CE Saturn would be harder to find than the Aurora Sealab III. Instead I am going to use two soft PVC sink replacement tubes (from Home Depot) wrapped in styrene sheet (the diameter comes out just right).

    But, as always, I'll ask if anyone has any info regarding the Cashulette Engineering Saturn V's...

    P.S., I have some updates to the info I gave at the beginning of this thread... Stay tuned until I get back from work.
     
  20. cobywan

    cobywan Sr Member

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    I have a technique for making silicone molds that shrink. So far I have tested a ration of 50:50 Silicone to Naptha that really does shrink 50% of volume. The actual ration of dimensional length is some sort of complicated math formula that I haven't figured out yet. But it is something to consider as you go forward with this venture.
     
  21. Treadwell

    Treadwell Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I assume the shrinking occurs after the rubber has set? So you remove the donor part and then it's shrinkydink time?
     
  22. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    OK, I finally got a chance to do this update to my previous posts:

    Rear Plate Detail – It WAS pinned down that the Nichimo 1:35 Jagdtiger is the kit for the rear “engine grill” detail. The ESCI 1:72 Jagdtiger is pretty much spot-on, while the King Tiger could also be used. Since the front of the hull is used too, the Jagdtiger would be better, but since I already have three King Tigers, I am just going to use them. These kits are re-released by Italeri. The Revell Germany kits aren’t as close to the Nichimo.

    Sides of the Neck – Roden has a 1:72 8Rad that can be used, but it is not completely accurate. I will probably use the transmission part and scratchbuild the rest. My one Roden part got messed in a… an incident…

    "Dome Strut Box" – I got an ESCI 1:72 PzKpfw III N/M and it has the dome strut box in it, as well as other parts that the larger Tamiya version has. I am going to use the RG PzKpfw IV Ausf H for the shovels.

    The DML Hummel parts arenÂ’t exact, but could conceivably be used.

    I am using Hasegawa 1:48 Messerschmitt Bf109 K landing gears for the “dome struts.”

    Now for some pictures... Be aware that Geocities might act up again... I am looking for a better way to host pics.

    DML 1:35 Hummel parts for the wings:
    [​IMG]

    ESCI 1:72 PzKpfw III N/M parts:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Hasegawa 1:48 Hurricane IIB:
    [​IMG]

    Hasegawa 1:48 Messerschmitt Bf109K:
    [​IMG]

    Hasegawa 1:48 P-51D Mustang:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    ICM 1:48 Spitfire 9 Engine Parts:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Roden 1:72 232 Panzerspahwagen:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Revell Germany 1:72 PzKpfw IV Shovel:
    [​IMG]

    Revell Germany 1:72 Tiger I Canisters:
    [​IMG]

    Tamiya 1:20 Tyrrell P34 Six Wheeler:
    [​IMG]

    Now I want to show you a comparison of King Tiger hulls (ESCI is on the left and Revell Germany is on the right):
    [​IMG]

    The ESCI (re-released by Italeri) is better in my opinion, but since you need to use the front of the hull as well as the back, the ESCI/Italeri 1:72 Jagdtiger is the best:
    [​IMG]

    It does not have the round piece on the top/center of the hull. As I said, I am not going to bother getting this kit because I have 3 of the King Tigers and the only real difference is what I just mentioned.

    There are other kits that I have and can probably find to detail this thing... like I might need an HO scale Tiger I... I also have an Airfix 1:72(76?) Matilda which contributes nicely... the good thing about that kit is that it is also used on the 32 inch Falcon.

    A lot of these pictures were found on http://www.ontheway.org.uk/, since they were nice and I haven't gotten around to take any of my own. Here is one final pic:

    Various Parts
     
  23. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    When is Fine Molds going to release a Y Wing? I think we should start a petition :D
     
  24. cobywan

    cobywan Sr Member

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    No doubt.
     
  25. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>(cobywan @ Aug 17 2006, 04:55 PM) [snapback]1302369[/snapback]</div>
    If my calculations are correct (I've always wanted to say that), then a mold that shrinks 50% in volume would yield a part that is 79.37% of the original in physical dimension. Does this seem right? I need to find that formula and see what I come up with using that. The original post seems to have been taken down.

    I found the original formula, I think, in my offline notes. It seems like something is missing from those notes, but from what I have they were getting the same numbers. They had 0.80 (80% instead of 79.37%) for a 50/50 mix of Silicone and Naptha.

    So, this won't quite work for my Y, unless either I also do one that is sized in-between the studio scale Y and a 1:48 Y (maybe using the AMT 1:200 Saturn V's and 1:48 Jagdtiger I have) or am somehow able to keep adding napthalene until I get a part that is 50% in linear dimension. Maybe I will figure out what that ratio would be - something like 25% silicone? :)
     
  26. Treadwell

    Treadwell Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Too lazy to do the math, but off the top of my head, if the naptha thing creates an 80% sized result, just recast it the same way like five more times. ;)
     
  27. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    Now my mind is buzzing with ideas... I take it there would be no significant detail loss by re-casting like that? When I get home I will figure out roughly how many times I would need to shrink it down. Now, if I only had the ability to sojourn into the fourth dimension and turn the parts that I have "inside out", I would be able to cast 3D mirror images of my parts. :unsure
     
  28. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    OK... I almost asked a dumb question... don't do that.

    Here is what I got as far as shrinkage:

    80.00% 79.37%
    Primary master (original part): 1.0000 1.0000
    Secondary master from first 50/50 naptha mold: 0.8000 0.7937
    Tertiary master from second 50/50 naptha mold: 0.6400 0.6300
    Final master from third 50/50 naptha mold: 0.5120 0.5000
    Casted piece from pure silicone mold:

    Sorry if the tabs do not hold... The first column is using the estimated 80%, and the second is the percentage I got from a mold that shrinks 50% in volume. I couldn't fill out the last row because I don't know how much a normal mold shrinks. It looks like I can get pretty close with that... what do you think?

    Here, this is better:

    [​IMG]
     
  29. cobywan

    cobywan Sr Member

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    The detail should hold just fine. An they will look sharper as they reduce in size. The only real tricks are to make sure your mold are air tight while they set up and that you are VERY carefull getting your pattern out of the rubber. the "thinned" silicone is like jello untill the naptha evaporates.
     
  30. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>(cobywan @ Aug 22 2006, 01:49 AM) [snapback]1304798[/snapback]</div>
    OK. I have just a few questions then:
    1) What do you mean when you say, "make sure your mold are air tight while they set up?"
    2) Do you give the rubber the same amount of time to set as you normally would (without the Naptha)?
    3) How long should I wait for the Naptha to evaporate completely, or as close as it can get?

    Thanks Cobywan
     
  31. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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  32. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>(Flintlock @ Aug 23 2006, 01:00 PM) [snapback]1305653[/snapback]</div>
    ...You there Cobywan?
     
  33. cobywan

    cobywan Sr Member

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    1. The mold needs to have a lid or be in a small container with a lid. You need to prevent evaporation while the rubber cures. I build my boxes out of styrene or acrylic and after teh rubber is poured I slap a plate over the top.

    2. The set up times are the same.

    3. You can tell it's done when the smell of naptha is gone. It shouldn't take more than a day to evaporate out.
     
  34. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>(cobywan @ Aug 27 2006, 03:10 PM) [snapback]1307948[/snapback]</div>
    Thanks, Coby.
     
  35. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    Re: 1/48 Scale Y Wing

    Can't believe I am resurrecting this thread yet again, but here goes:

    The body for my 1:48 Y is being printed out as I type. I tried a couple of times scratching it, but got super frustrated. Being a perfectionist is not good when you want it accurate down to 0.010".

    The best part about printing it though is that it's being done for free.

    I'll have some pictures tonight which I will post here. I will also be updating my blog which you can see here: http://www.eulercircles.com
     
  36. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    Re: 1/48 Scale Y Wing

    Ok I didn't post last night because... well... here's the good and bad news:

    GOOD - The top and bottom halves of the fuselage finished printing and they turned out great.

    BAD - My digital camera crapped the bed and the pictures I took are atrocious.

    I can post them if wanted, but I warned you...
     
  37. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    Re: 1/48 Scale Y Wing

    I am having some trouble casting my fuselage halves - maybe someone can help me. I made two part molds for each half (top and bottom) of the fuselage. The molds came out great. This evening I took the mold for the top half, powdered it with baby powder, stuck it in the microwave on high for one minute, and then poured the resin into my gate. This casting came out very good. I did the same thing for the two-part mold for the bottom half, but it came out terrible. Most of the thing was trapped air. So, I did it again but I used a paper cup and poured a thin stream as slowly as possible to let the resin get all the way in. The second time there was still a lot of trapped air.

    The third time I washed both parts of the mold, dried them thoroughly, re-powdered, microwaved, and slushed it. That is, I poured the resin in first and then pressed the male part of the mold on, letting the extra resin squeeze out the sides. This one turned out better, but some of the walls, which are supposed to be 0.080" thick and solid, are mostly air covered by a very thin skin of resin. Also, in this third attempt, there are areas in the solid portions that are darker - like trapped resin that is not curing, even though I mixed the resin as thoroughly as I did the first one.

    What am I doing wrong, or what could I do to fix this, aside from buying a pressure pot and a compressor?

    P.S. I did cut slits in my mold for air to escape, so that's covered, unless I need more.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2008
  38. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    Re: 1/48 Scale Y Wing

    Never mind - I figured it out. The geometry around the gate created so narrow a passage that it was filling up with resin too fast. Meanwhile, the cavity underneath was not getting filled up in time before the resin started to cure. I took my utility knife and made a bigger passage for the resin. This time I got a beautiful casting.

    Hey, this is how you learn right?

    Oh, if anyone is doing something similar (with two part molds), and if anyone is still reading this thread, I recommend letting the resin cure all the way until it is completely hard before you demold. In this piece I was trying to cast, I have a couple of undercuts and when I pulled it the resin was still somewhat pliable. I ended up with a slightly warped piece. Next time I will let it cure and cool completely.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2008
  39. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    Re: 1/48 Scale Y Wing

    Next, I have to tackle this:
     
  40. darth_daniel

    darth_daniel Sr Member

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    Re: 1/48 Scale Y Wing

    Good luck with it!

    I think you should re-do your drawing of the cockpit pod though, if you want to base your build on it. The top of the canopy (the horizontal plane above the "rectangular" windows) actually is a flat plane, there´s no sharp bend in it, it´s just very very slightly (hardly noticeable) bent as a whole. And the whole canopy is much flatter. And it´s quite much wider. If you´re interested, I could provide some - more or less - "ortho" pics of my MR Y´s cockpit pod and canopy. Just let me know.
     
  41. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    Re: 1/48 Scale Y Wing

    Hey, that would be great! I made those drawings based on the Fine Molds kit. This was just a quick drawing and I wasn't going to start until I made sure it was quite correct.

    But those ortho shots would help a lot.
     
  42. darth_daniel

    darth_daniel Sr Member

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    Re: 1/48 Scale Y Wing

    Okay...I´ve taken some pics for you. Tell me your email adress and I´ll send along a .rar file containing the pics. They´re just freehand though and not perfect orthos of course, but they should give you a better idea than the FM Y (which is great, but not exactly perfect).
    One thing I was told though is that the cockpit pod should actually widen slightly as you go down along the vertical panels of the cockpit pod, so their lower edges should be a bit wider apart than their upper edges (if that explanation makes any sense...). The MR Y doesn´t feature this.
     
  43. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    Re: 1/48 Scale Y Wing

    Ok, I see what you are talking about now. When it comes to the vertical panels, I knew this from the Fine Molds because it features that. I just started with a simple vertical at the back and made it wider on the bottom up front. I need to take another look at the FM head because it looks correct - maybe I just didn't pay enough attention. I know of the other inaccuracies of that kit too.

    Thanks a lot for the ortho pics. The head section is the only portion I did not have good reference shots for. Now I have better ones!
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2008
  44. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    Re: 1/48 Scale Y Wing

    I was finally able to take some shots of the body halves that I had printed on a 3D printer:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Unfortunately, I am forced to put this project on hold for now. But I am still making progress, how ever slow it may be.
     
  45. Nwerke

    Nwerke Master Member

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    Re: 1/48 Scale Y Wing

    That's looking good, dude, shame you have to suspend it.

    Re your mould troubles, it's a horrible temptation to demould before your resin is truly set up. Resin can be sensitive to weather conditions so it's best just to force yourself to leave it for a good long while.

    Also, with your next moulds, spend time playing with your masters for a while in different orientations before you clay them up. A lot of people mould things set up in their main orientation (e.g. they set up a mould for a cube shaped object with the cube flat relative to the pour hole). A much better orientation is to have it up on one of its corners. You might find an orientation for your cockpit that is better than what you first think of.

    Cheers,
    Martyn
     
  46. Jedi Dade

    Jedi Dade Sr Member

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    Re: 1/48 Scale Y Wing

    Yes absolutely think in 3D whne making up your molds... Gravity will win if you orient it well "Most" of the time and your cast will be bubble free without a presure pot. However sometimes there's no good way to orient something...

    One "trick" that a lot of people don't do - (I'm not sure why really) is to pour "partial" pours let it cure... rotate and pour again. You may need to clear out the pour area a bit - or just plan ahead and make then nice and big - then you can let gravity work for you... sucking the resin into the details in more then one axis... I've done this for a few things that were "oddly shaped" and got decent results... Not a s good as a presure pot mind you but decent...

    Just a though... or 2 :)

    Jedi Dade
     
  47. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    Re: 1/48 Scale Y Wing

    Thanks for the tips guys. The molds are excellent, and I can cast the top piece with no problem. For some reason, though, a lot of air gets trapped in the mold for the bottom piece. I created air-escape routes and widened the gate. Also, I need to hold it a bit at an angle.

    I will see if there is a better way to make the mold, and possibly re-mold it at a later date. I plan on eventually getting a pressure pot, so we'll see.
     
  48. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    Re: 1/48 Scale Y Wing

    I work at a college, and we have 2 3D printers here. I just found out that the Center for Business and Industry runs a service whereby I could have several parts printed at a much lower price than other online services. Looks like I may have the rest of the 1:48 Y parts printed! The first parts were free, but I don't mind paying... I plan on getting these pieces printed:

    Engine tubes and domes (as 1 piece)
    Engine inserts/nozzles
    Rear vectrals
    Head
    Canopy
    Neck side pieces (8 Rad parts)

    Since I have a new camera now, there will be updates...
     
  49. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    Re: 1/48 Scale Y Wing

    Almost print-ready!
     
  50. Flintlock

    Flintlock Sr Member

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    Re: 1/48 Scale Y Wing

    Here are the parts I am trying to get printed before this weekend. They are the same pictures I sent to the printer so that they orient them the right way.
     

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