1:1 Millennium Falcon Cockpit Replica - Group Build

[greeble_gremlin]

SofaKing,
I was reading through the section of you working with the decal and decal paper.
I'm sending you (PM) a message with some links to a fellow who still has working ALPs printer (with a stockpile of spare parts and cartridges).
He is here on the RPF and has a lot of experience with decals and their graphics
The Alps printer as you may know can print with white opaque ink and also a 4th color metalic (silver or gold)
That means one piece/one step waterslide decals like the kind made professionally in model kits.
Also link a fellow who also has a state of the art $10K Laserjet printer that can also print in opaque white and metallic inks.
It also has a larger print bed than the alps.
If you are using the "Testors" Brand decal paper from your LHS , there are better performing specialty decal papers available out there. I will dig up those links too.

Regarding:
The trouble you are having with the clear film causing the back-ground black to not be as dark where the decals are placed on the surface;
-- Is the base paint color beneath the decal a semi-gloss (or satin) black?

 

[SofaKing01]

Hey Thanks,
I must of mistakenly skipped over those pages, when I was trying to get caught up on this thread. sorry about that
The decals and smaller scale consoles look great BTW !

No worries at all! It's always fun to go back and see what I was doing and where i was.

Thanks so much! Just got some great news from fellow RPFer Izzy re: the decals!

 

[SofaKing01]

SofaKing,
I was reading through the section of you working with the decal and decal paper.
I'm sending you (PM) a message with some links to a fellow who still has working ALPs printer (with a stockpile of spare parts and cartridges).
He is here on the RPF and has a lot of experience with decals and their graphics
The Alps printer as you may know can print with white opaque ink and also a 4th color metalic (silver or gold)
That means one piece/one step waterslide decals like the kind made professionally in model kits.
Also link a fellow who also has a state of the art $10K Laserjet printer that can also print in opaque white and metallic inks.
It also has a larger print bed than the alps.
If you are using the "Testors" Brand decal paper from your LHS , there are better performing specialty decal papers available out there. I will dig up those links too.

Regarding:
The trouble you are having with the clear film causing the back-ground black to not be as dark where the decals are placed on the surface;
-- Is the base paint color beneath the decal a semi-gloss (or satin) black?

Hey GG,

Funny you mention the ALPS printer... Fellow RPFer Izzymel used his ever so impressive wheeling & dealing skills to secure an APLPS 5000P (I believe) printer and it should be delivered within the next week or so! We are VERY excited and one step closer to having the decals for the 1/4 and 1/6 scale ready for delivery!

Any link you can provide to better paper would be wonderful. Please note: I need the paper to be 11x17 for the larger instrument panel decals.

 

[joberg]

This thread keeps on giving: giving me pleasure (and a big smile) every time I'm checking the cockpit progress

 

[SofaKing01]

Hi Gang,

PART IV - The Nose Cone

Time to address and get some more work done on the nose cone / canopy

So how am I going to skin the lower nose without messing it up!

So... while thinking about the nose skin I sanded the canopy a little more

Still have to get into those tight areas

Sanded the interior filler and finally got some primer added!

OK... Time to address the lower nose skin! I taped off the entire nose and trimmed the tape edges

I had to add some horizontal tape pieces to keep the tape from coming apart when removed - adhered to styrene

Began to cut away from the styrene

Left myself enough slack on all sides to ensure a good fit

And that's where we are so far!

Stay Tuned!

 

[BruceKenobi]

Hi Gang,

PART IV - The Nose Cone

Time to address and get some more work done on the nose cone / canopy
View attachment 966525

So how am I going to skin the lower nose without messing it up!
View attachment 966526

So... while thinking about the nose skin I sanded the canopy a little more
View attachment 966527

View attachment 966528

Still have to get into those tight areas
View attachment 966529

View attachment 966530

Sanded the interior filler and finally got some primer added!
View attachment 966531

View attachment 966532

View attachment 966533

OK... Time to address the lower nose skin! I taped off the entire nose and trimmed the tape edges
View attachment 966534

View attachment 966535

View attachment 966536

I had to add some horizontal tape pieces to keep the tape from coming apart when removed - adhered to styrene
View attachment 966537

Began to cut away from the styrene
View attachment 966538

Left myself enough slack on all sides to ensure a good fit
View attachment 966539

And that's where we are so far!

Stay Tuned!

Hey SK, I just wondered, are you working form blueprints or from "head-prints"? (like head cannon but for blueprints)

 

[SofaKing01]

This thread keeps on giving: giving me pleasure (and a big smile) every time I'm checking the cockpit progress

Hey J,

That's the idea! So long as you guys/gals keep inspiring me... I can only do the same.

 

[SofaKing01]

Hey SK, I just wondered, are you working form blueprints or from "head-prints"? (like head cannon but for blueprints)

Hey BK,

The basic structure is based very heavily on Steve Starkiller's 3D model of the MF. But the actual frame is completely made up by me as I go. I look at a LOT of the behind the scene images and just sort of copy and scale down... They dont call her the "Ship of Riddles" for nothing!

 

[Sni9er]

man with that primer on it takes a whole new look, always good to see grey on things in progress!!

blows my mind to see you go at a small scale one !!

 

[SofaKing01]

man with that primer on it takes a whole new look, always good to see grey on things in progress!!

blows my mind to see you go at a small scale one !!

Hey S,

I love the primer stage! The 1/4 and 1/6 scales have been a LOT of fun to do. More work than I thought... but still a lot of fun!

 

[greeble_gremlin]

here here! me too!
with primer you can pretend you don't know what it looks like "underneath" or what it's actually made of...just focus on the shape and surface quality.

 

[greeble_gremlin]

SofaKing,
Regarding the decals, if your base coat of black paint is a semi-gloss or satin, that is why you are getting that slightly lighter "hazed/film" look where the transparent parts of the decal are located.
It is because Flat (Matte) and semi-gloss finishes have a very fine "tooth" to their surface. This traps very minute air bubbles under the surface of the decal film,
The way to avoid this is; You need to have a purely Gloss surface / substrate - on the areas that you are placing the decals. A good glosssy surface is perfectly smooth.
You will not get the micro air bubbles trapped underneath. After the decals have dried, You can then put a clear-coat of Flat or Semi-gloss over the area to achieve the final finish that you desire. (which also serves to protect the decals from wear and tear)
This may mean you initially paint (for example) the console with a gloss black and then, spray a semi-gloss finish to the entire piece after the decals are set in place.
Or you can just spray a clear gloss coat over just the areas that receive decals, following up with a clear semi-gloss after the decals have dried for at least 24 hours.
I would definitely do some experimentation and testing with the paints/finishes you are using first. To thoroughly check compatibility.
Mixing brands or types of spray paints can sometimes cause bad results /interactions. Ie: cracking, wrinkling, peeling etc.

Keep in mind too, Satin, and Semi-Gloss clear coats, and especially Matte (flat) clear coats can "cake" white in corners and crevices if applied too thick in one coat. Better to have 2-3 thin coats allowing some dry time between coats.
And definitely no high humidity when painting these clear finishes!
True lacquer paints will give you best results if you can get them, they are increasing hard to find with most major spray paint brands.

 

[greeble_gremlin]

BTW, I apologize if you already knew this about decal applications,
I don't mean to insult your intelligence,
... nor am I trying to sound like a know it all.
(Before the advent of the "Digital Age", I use to use an airbrush and touch-up gun for a lot of illustration work... and have painted on a myriad of surfaces.(and paints too) Not jus illustration board, but also surf-boards, glass,textiles, cars, motorcycles, helmets etc.)
I am very impressed with the ingenuity you have shown during this build!
I have certainly been taking notes; and learning a few new techniques to "add to my play book"

 

[greeble_gremlin]

Hey SofaKing01,
not to be a pest...
but, may I ask what 2D/3D software are you using for you CAD work?
sorry, if this was already mentioned earlier in this thread.

 

[SofaKing01]

here here! me too!
with primer you can pretend you don't know what it looks like "underneath" or what it's actually made of...just focus on the shape and surface quality.

Sadly, we're our own worst critics when it comes to "making". We ALWAYS know what's underneath all the filler and primer!

 

[SofaKing01]

SofaKing,
Regarding the decals, if your base coat of black paint is a semi-gloss or satin, that is why you are getting that slightly lighter "hazed/film" look where the transparent parts of the decal are located.
It is because Flat (Matte) and semi-gloss finishes have a very fine "tooth" to their surface. This traps very minute air bubbles under the surface of the decal film,
The way to avoid this is; You need to have a purely Gloss surface / substrate - on the areas that you are placing the decals. A good glosssy surface is perfectly smooth.
You will not get the micro air bubbles trapped underneath. After the decals have dried, You can then put a clear-coat of Flat or Semi-gloss over the area to achieve the final finish that you desire. (which also serves to protect the decals from wear and tear)
This may mean you initially paint (for example) the console with a gloss black and then, spray a semi-gloss finish to the entire piece after the decals are set in place.
Or you can just spray a clear gloss coat over just the areas that receive decals, following up with a clear semi-gloss after the decals have dried for at least 24 hours.
I would definitely do some experimentation and testing with the paints/finishes you are using first. To thoroughly check compatibility.
Mixing brands or types of spray paints can sometimes cause bad results /interactions. Ie: cracking, wrinkling, peeling etc.

Keep in mind too, Satin, and Semi-Gloss clear coats, and especially Matte (flat) clear coats can "cake" white in corners and crevices if applied too thick in one coat. Better to have 2-3 thin coats allowing some dry time between coats.
And definitely no high humidity when painting these clear finishes!
True lacquer paints will give you best results if you can get them, they are increasing hard to find with most major spray paint brands.

Hey GG,

THANKS for the info! VERY helpful. I'm hoping the ALPS printer will solve ALL my continuing issues with the decals. I'm sure there will be a slight learning curve, but the fact we have the ALPS is awesome! Stand by for some 1/4 and 1/6 scale console updates with some newly printed decals.

 

[SofaKing01]

BTW, I apologize if you already knew this about decal applications,
I don't mean to insult your intelligence,
... nor am I trying to sound like a know it all.
(Before the advent of the "Digital Age", I use to use an airbrush and touch-up gun for a lot of illustration work... and have painted on a myriad of surfaces.(and paints too) Not jus illustration board, but also surf-boards, glass,textiles, cars, motorcycles, helmets etc.)
I am very impressed with the ingenuity you have shown during this build!
I have certainly been taking notes; and learning a few new techniques to "add to my play book"

NOT AL ALL! I appreciate the time and experience you're sharing. How are we to learn anything if we're not open to other's experiences and expertise!

Thanks so much! I'm still learning as I go.

 

[SofaKing01]

Hey SofaKing01,
not to be a pest...
but, may I ask what 2D/3D software are you using for you CAD work?
sorry, if this was already mentioned earlier in this thread.

Again... not at all!

Believe it or not... I'm a Corel guy. Not a huge fan of the Adobe drawing tools. Photoshop is a different animal and VERY impressive. But their drawing tools... eh...

Anywho, we started using a free drawing app called Inkscape. It's not a bad app at all. The PC we have at the shop is not a graphics machine by any definition so we installed Inkscape for everybody to use. Inkscape also exports DXFs - the format the laser cutter s/w uses. I have to be able to make quick and real-time changes, so... the long answer to your question - Inkscape.

I hope that helps?

 

[greeble_gremlin]

Hey thanks, I will look into Inkscape.
I like Adobe Illustrator and Corel both, but have not kept up with the latest iterations of corel. The Laser cutters I use prefer Corel as the final format for exporting.

By the way here is a simple formula for determining the surface development for a cone (Ie: the cockpit's main shape)

Also, do you know about "repositionable" spray-mount?
Used by quilters. You can get "Aleene's" repositionable "Tacky Spray" at Joanne Fabrics & Crafts

I use it when cutting with a CNC mill or Laser cutter is not practical.
I simple print the 2D shape/pattern from the printer, spray the back of the paper and plop it down on the styrene sheet ( or leather, fabric, vynil etc).
Its easy to remove after you cut out the shape. It leaves little if any residue, which can easily be cleaned off with some water or alcohol.

 

[SofaKing01]

Hey thanks, I will look into Inkscape.
I like Adobe Illustrator and Corel both, but have not kept up with the latest iterations of corel. The Laser cutters I use prefer Corel as the final format for exporting.

By the way here is a simple formula for determining the surface development for a cone (Ie: the cockpit's main shape)
View attachment 967149

Hey GG,

I have always wondered what the formula was for finding the surface of cone. Now... if I only knew what I was looking at?