My Little Pony: Action figure (fully articulated) Princess Luna 3D printed
- Thread starter HaVoC373
- Start date
HaVoC373
Active Member
I've had a chat with a friend of mine who has a lot of experience with casting and molding and it seems i've been making quite a few mistakes.
I'll let you know about the results of my adjustments when i do another test cast
In the meantime here's a quick update on the molds I have so far
This one is for the lower legs and torso.
These are the front legs, ball joints and a few others
And these are going to be poured tomorrow
I'll let you know about the results of my adjustments when i do another test cast
In the meantime here's a quick update on the molds I have so far
This one is for the lower legs and torso.
These are the front legs, ball joints and a few others
And these are going to be poured tomorrow
HaVoC373
Active Member
well guys it looks like i'm going to have to pull the plug on this project. so far none of my molds have resulted in decent cast. out of a total of 80 parts i tried to cast i got a grand total of 10 salvageable ones. at this point I'm ready to throw in the towel. i want to finish the project but at some point you just have to admit that you have no idea what you're doing.
everything i try to cast is full of bubbles. or in a lot of cases the resin just doesn't reach into certain pockets. if i try to slosh the mold all i get is paper thin shells. if i for try to prime the mold by using a syringe to squirt the resin those those area's before closing the mold and pouring it just runs out and i get a shell or nothing at all.
I'm at my whits end, all i can think of is getting a presure casting setup but at this point i've already sunk so much money into this project it probably just isn't worth it.
if anyone has any idea's on what i'm doing wrong please share. at this point i'm just not having fun anymore.
everything i try to cast is full of bubbles. or in a lot of cases the resin just doesn't reach into certain pockets. if i try to slosh the mold all i get is paper thin shells. if i for try to prime the mold by using a syringe to squirt the resin those those area's before closing the mold and pouring it just runs out and i get a shell or nothing at all.
I'm at my whits end, all i can think of is getting a presure casting setup but at this point i've already sunk so much money into this project it probably just isn't worth it.
if anyone has any idea's on what i'm doing wrong please share. at this point i'm just not having fun anymore.
Mike J.
Master Member
I'm sorry to hear that.
- - -
Doing a run involves a large amount of capital and a large amount of risk. Even if everything goes perfectly, you can get hit with a C&D and be left with a product you can't sell. Something similar happened to me, and I still have a box of approximately 250 ID cards that must have cost me well over 100 bucks that I'll never recoup... Been contemplating a run of something just today, but I may err on the side of caution.
- - -
Let me redirect: You built an articulated pony action figure in 3D. You then had it printed. Does it all fit together and work? Even if you're not going to get rich and retire from a run of resin Luna action figures, having your completed prototype is still something worth bragging about on EQD... Conversely, you could group all the parts together in one file and sell it at Shapeways' licensed pony section... Since you've got a skinny alicorn body built, you're just a head, tail and cutie mark away from a Cadance action figure to go with her...
- - -
I don't want to come off like I know what I'm doing. I've never molded or cast anything. I know it's tricky. But I don't think this is a total failure
-MJ
- - -
Doing a run involves a large amount of capital and a large amount of risk. Even if everything goes perfectly, you can get hit with a C&D and be left with a product you can't sell. Something similar happened to me, and I still have a box of approximately 250 ID cards that must have cost me well over 100 bucks that I'll never recoup... Been contemplating a run of something just today, but I may err on the side of caution.
- - -
Let me redirect: You built an articulated pony action figure in 3D. You then had it printed. Does it all fit together and work? Even if you're not going to get rich and retire from a run of resin Luna action figures, having your completed prototype is still something worth bragging about on EQD... Conversely, you could group all the parts together in one file and sell it at Shapeways' licensed pony section... Since you've got a skinny alicorn body built, you're just a head, tail and cutie mark away from a Cadance action figure to go with her...
- - -
I don't want to come off like I know what I'm doing. I've never molded or cast anything. I know it's tricky. But I don't think this is a total failure
-MJ
Last edited:
HaVoC373
Active Member
I'm sorry to hear that.
- - -
Doing a run involves a large amount of capital and a large amount of risk. Even if everything goes perfectly, you can get hit with a C&D and be left with a product you can't sell. Something similar happened to me, and I still have a box of approximately 250 ID cards that must have cost me well over 100 bucks that I'll never recoup... Been contemplating a run of something just today, but I may err on the side of caution.
- - -
Let me redirect: You built an articulated pony action figure in 3D. You then had it printed. Does it all fit together and work? Even if you're not going to get rich and retire from a run of resin Luna action figures, having your completed prototype is still something worth bragging about on EQD... Conversely, you could group all the parts together in one file and sell it at Shapeways' licensed pony section... Since you've got a skinny alicorn body built, you're just a head, tail and cutie mark away from a Cadance action figure to go with her...
- - -
I don't want to come off like I know what I'm doing. I've never molded or cast anything. I know it's tricky. But I don't think this is a total failure
-MJ
Oh the 3d printed master is fine so i don't see the project as a total loss. i just hoped i'd be able to recoup some costs and add a new skill to my repertoire
but i'm not 100% ready to give up just yet.
HaVoC373
Active Member
'Never give up, never surrender' ... that said perhaps you could get your friend with some more experience involved personally? Sometimes a mentor at hand can steer you in the right direction
Chaim
I'd love to but he lives in the US
Mike J.
Master Member
Maybe this would be helpful?
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/projects/jw_resin.htm
It's pretty old... The Japanese garage kit makers have been able to do wonderful things with resin casting, but I don't know how they do it.
-MJ
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/projects/jw_resin.htm
It's pretty old... The Japanese garage kit makers have been able to do wonderful things with resin casting, but I don't know how they do it.
-MJ
HaVoC373- I know I've been more lurking then commenting, but your despair is heartbreaking. I won't say I'm an expert at molding and casting, but I do have years of experience with what's happening to you and I wish I could be there to help you, but alas, I'm in the US. Although I have been giving thought to moving to London as of late to work on Doctor Who.
I have what i think is a fairly simple solution, but it will sound complicated to you, please bear with me as I explain. The molds you made have too many parts to try to cast at once, your flow patterns are good, but you need to inject the urethane (resin) into the mold to force pressure behind the flow. The main thing necessary to get air bubbles out is a Pressure pot. In the US we tend to buy modified paint pots, not entirely the safest of options, but it works. A medium compressor for air is needed as well. Again, in the US these two purchases ran me about $200. But for you I can't say. The effect you need is the high pressure to collapse the air pockets inside the mold. You inject the urethane, then leave the tube in the mold and fill with extra material. When you place this into the pressure pot, close it up and add pressure, the air forces the bubbles deep inside the mold to pop and the extra fluid is then drawn into the empty areas. I usually leave my castings in the pot for hours to make sure they fully harden before taking them out, but once they cure, then you will open up the molds and see that castings can be perfect or nearly perfect. The other thing that helps is realizing that you are trying to do something that traditionally is done with very large machines, and even in injection casting, there are still problems, what you face is not your problem alone. I almost lost faith about a year ago when casting Oblivion rifle parts, but it took stepping back and rethinking the issue. Eventually what helped was heating the molds, baby powder used on the surface to break surface tension, and pressure casting all the parts after injection. I still get air bubbles, but they are a lot less then they were when I started. I also changed silicones, I use sorta-clear platniums that are relatively more expensive, but I can SEE the urethane as i inject and I can see where air is trapped and make attempts to get the bubble out.
Long winded I may be, but I hope some of this helps. If you haven't already, search out pressure casting on you-tube and at smooth-on, they have tutorials that explain everything much better then I can. And as a last ditch effort, if you want to ship me a part, I will make a mold and cast some pieces to show you what I mean. I hope you don't give up and please keep at it, many of us here on the RPF are willing and able to help, just reach out to us.
I have what i think is a fairly simple solution, but it will sound complicated to you, please bear with me as I explain. The molds you made have too many parts to try to cast at once, your flow patterns are good, but you need to inject the urethane (resin) into the mold to force pressure behind the flow. The main thing necessary to get air bubbles out is a Pressure pot. In the US we tend to buy modified paint pots, not entirely the safest of options, but it works. A medium compressor for air is needed as well. Again, in the US these two purchases ran me about $200. But for you I can't say. The effect you need is the high pressure to collapse the air pockets inside the mold. You inject the urethane, then leave the tube in the mold and fill with extra material. When you place this into the pressure pot, close it up and add pressure, the air forces the bubbles deep inside the mold to pop and the extra fluid is then drawn into the empty areas. I usually leave my castings in the pot for hours to make sure they fully harden before taking them out, but once they cure, then you will open up the molds and see that castings can be perfect or nearly perfect. The other thing that helps is realizing that you are trying to do something that traditionally is done with very large machines, and even in injection casting, there are still problems, what you face is not your problem alone. I almost lost faith about a year ago when casting Oblivion rifle parts, but it took stepping back and rethinking the issue. Eventually what helped was heating the molds, baby powder used on the surface to break surface tension, and pressure casting all the parts after injection. I still get air bubbles, but they are a lot less then they were when I started. I also changed silicones, I use sorta-clear platniums that are relatively more expensive, but I can SEE the urethane as i inject and I can see where air is trapped and make attempts to get the bubble out.
Long winded I may be, but I hope some of this helps. If you haven't already, search out pressure casting on you-tube and at smooth-on, they have tutorials that explain everything much better then I can. And as a last ditch effort, if you want to ship me a part, I will make a mold and cast some pieces to show you what I mean. I hope you don't give up and please keep at it, many of us here on the RPF are willing and able to help, just reach out to us.
HaVoC373
Active Member
Thank you for the advice wondersquid. I'll definitely be taking a closer look at paint pots and the like. for the time being i am going to take a break from this project for about a week or so. let my current process simmer a bit and maybe i'll think of some new things i can try etc. just get a fresh perspective on it in about a week or so.
And if i really can't get better results i might take you up on that offer of casting some parts. Thank you for all the encouragement. i'm definitely going to keep going but i just need a break and get a fresh perspective.
And if i really can't get better results i might take you up on that offer of casting some parts. Thank you for all the encouragement. i'm definitely going to keep going but i just need a break and get a fresh perspective.
I completely understand. I took a month off of my hell, its amazing how much better you feel when you come back to it.
NoMaybeYes
New Member
Sorry to hear the molds didnt come out. If it comes to it and you really cannot continue I would still love to see you paint and assemble it!
Contec
Master Member
ok back to work
Any update?
HaVoC373
Active Member
I'm still diligently making molds but no real progress yet. IRL has been getting in the way. i hope to have a new update soon
HaVoC373
Active Member
I'm not dead!
I've finally managed to get good casts! the trick? Rotate the molds constantly while the resin is curing. (so borderline rotocast)
I'm getting a near 100% success rate with negligible air bubbles, even on the molds with tiny parts.
That said i am still missing 4 molds and i have to remake the molds for the feet. since that mold was just not salvageable.
I've got more silicone on the way (my third 10 lbs bucket) so the rest should be ready next week! Motivation is back with a vengeance
Here's a set of completed sprue's
I've finally managed to get good casts! the trick? Rotate the molds constantly while the resin is curing. (so borderline rotocast)
I'm getting a near 100% success rate with negligible air bubbles, even on the molds with tiny parts.
That said i am still missing 4 molds and i have to remake the molds for the feet. since that mold was just not salvageable.
I've got more silicone on the way (my third 10 lbs bucket) so the rest should be ready next week! Motivation is back with a vengeance
Here's a set of completed sprue's
HaVoC373
Active Member
considering i just mutilated one of my cast heads with paint brushes I find myself in the need of an airbrush. I've already decided that i'm going to get an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS but i also need a compressor. I've been recommended a few cheap compressors, however most of the ones that have been recommended to me are either too expensive or not availible here in the Netherlands. so i was wondering if anyone could recommend me a good compressor for airbrushing that's available in Europe.
