lharles
Sr Member
Thanks.
I'm enjoying the process, even though it can be really frustrating now & then. 
Our "Jurassic Park" cryocan - in progress...
- Thread starter lharles
- Start date
Thanks.
I'm enjoying the process, even though it can be really frustrating now & then. 
red4
Sr Member
Where did you get ethanol?
I actually cant remember, I've had it kicking around for years. As you're not going to drink it you could use isopropyl alcohol, it should be available in lots of places. Or if you have some any clear colourless drink like vodka or gin would be just as good too.
Water's probably fine, but as I had ethanol I thought I might as well use it
red4
Sr Member
I actually cant remember, I've had it kicking around for years. As you're not going to drink it you could use isopropyl alcohol, it should be available in lots of places. Or if you have some any clear colourless drink like vodka or gin would be just as good too.
Water's probably fine, but as I had ethanol I thought I might as well use it
Do those non-water liquids you mentioned refract light more brilliantly than water? Or do they mix with food coloring better? What would you say they do better than water for the embryo tubes?
Not that I'm aware of,no. You'd be hard pushed to know it wasn't water. The reason I didn't want water was just because I didn't want anything growing in it or going stale.
red4
Sr Member
Ah, that's a smart move. I once caught rainwater in an acrylic box, and after about a year of ignoring it, I found it full of algae.
lharles
Sr Member
Okay, here's the current state. Learned quite a bit from the test print. I think I'll be ready for a second go round' once I amass some extra cash.
Still gonna' try to make this one look as close as possible to the prop but it'll really wind up having to be a static model, sadly. :$
Notes re: changes made for second print in the pic...
Still gonna' try to make this one look as close as possible to the prop but it'll really wind up having to be a static model, sadly. :$
Notes re: changes made for second print in the pic...
Malphas
Well-Known Member
Not to familiar with shapeways but they have different materials to make stuff out of. So in theory you could get it in steel it would just cost more, right?
Looking good.
EDIT* Granted if it's already up to $90 it would probably be cheaper just to get a Rylo can.
Looking good.
EDIT* Granted if it's already up to $90 it would probably be cheaper just to get a Rylo can.
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lharles
Sr Member
Yeah, that's where I was headed with my response.
BASICALLY, if you wanted to 3D print in steel it would be exorbitantly expensive. Rylo's can is really the best way to go, I think, in that sense.My project is more about satisfying my own need to replicate it & making it available to others if they want to use it as a starting point. It would be far from a finished product.
I'm not counting the hours of modeling I've done on this thing in terms of cost, but if I did it would FAR exceed the cost of one of Rylo's cans.
...& thanks for the kind words, again.
red4
Sr Member
...& 'red4', I haven't even begun to consider what I'm gonna' put in the vials.
I put honey and a drop of yellow food coloring in this:
lharles
Sr Member
Since my name was brought up:
The better question is, why would you want one 3D printed when you can have one CNC machined from solid metal for less than half the price and twice the finish and durability? Yes, 3D printing has it's place with props, but it's not the end all be all for all applications. It's important to remember CNC takes from from metal and 3D printing adds with aluminum powder, glue, etc.
From Shapeways:
A robust metal with a rough, pitted surface. Steel is available in a variety of polished and matte finishes, and good for a wide range of applications including jewelry, functional parts, and small sculptures.This material is 3D printed 420 Stainless Steel infused with bronze with a final composition of approximately 70% steel and 30% bronze.
To build steel models, special 3D printers deposit small drops of glue onto layers of stainless steel powder, one layer at a time, until the print is complete. We carefully remove these models from the printer. At this stage of the process, the objects are very fragile, similar to wet sand. The models then go through an infusion process that replaces the glue with bronze, creating a full metal product. Models are then processed to achieve your desired finish, sprayed with a sealant, and shipped to you.
This material is watertight, dishwasher safe, not recyclable, and not food-safe. It is heat resistant to 831C/1528F degrees. Higher temperatures may significantly change material properties.
*PLEASE NOTE: Some people may have a nickel allergy, so we do not recommend using it for wearable items, particularly jewelry.
Anyway, with regard to a project like this, I get the OP is simply exploring the craft and finds cryos interesting for his own amusement. But, on a larger scale and for something the average collector would want on their shelf, CNC is where it's at. Or hand turned for that matter. You'd be hard pressed to tell the difference from a capable machinist. :thumbsup
That said, keep up the good work!
The better question is, why would you want one 3D printed when you can have one CNC machined from solid metal for less than half the price and twice the finish and durability? Yes, 3D printing has it's place with props, but it's not the end all be all for all applications. It's important to remember CNC takes from from metal and 3D printing adds with aluminum powder, glue, etc.
From Shapeways:
A robust metal with a rough, pitted surface. Steel is available in a variety of polished and matte finishes, and good for a wide range of applications including jewelry, functional parts, and small sculptures.This material is 3D printed 420 Stainless Steel infused with bronze with a final composition of approximately 70% steel and 30% bronze.
To build steel models, special 3D printers deposit small drops of glue onto layers of stainless steel powder, one layer at a time, until the print is complete. We carefully remove these models from the printer. At this stage of the process, the objects are very fragile, similar to wet sand. The models then go through an infusion process that replaces the glue with bronze, creating a full metal product. Models are then processed to achieve your desired finish, sprayed with a sealant, and shipped to you.
This material is watertight, dishwasher safe, not recyclable, and not food-safe. It is heat resistant to 831C/1528F degrees. Higher temperatures may significantly change material properties.
*PLEASE NOTE: Some people may have a nickel allergy, so we do not recommend using it for wearable items, particularly jewelry.
Anyway, with regard to a project like this, I get the OP is simply exploring the craft and finds cryos interesting for his own amusement. But, on a larger scale and for something the average collector would want on their shelf, CNC is where it's at. Or hand turned for that matter. You'd be hard pressed to tell the difference from a capable machinist. :thumbsup
That said, keep up the good work!
Yeah, that's where I was headed with my response.
My project is more about satisfying my own need to replicate it & making it available to others if they want to use it as a starting point. It would be far from a finished product.
I'm not counting the hours of modeling I've done on this thing in terms of cost, but if I did it would FAR exceed the cost of one of Rylo's cans.
lharles
Sr Member
MAKE BELIEVE
Master Member
Looking good. Keep us posted
lharles
Sr Member
Here's what I think will be the final version. I'm satisfied with it. It's mechanical function isn't exactly as I'd hoped, but it'll do. Now comes the hard work o' tryin' to get the right finish on it, (I'm still working through that on the initial test).
One pic is a collage with flash, the other without. That's really the full extent of my photographic ability.
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One pic is a collage with flash, the other without. That's really the full extent of my photographic ability.
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