I'm a Bro and I Sew... Who else is with me?

[booksandcorsets]

Just out of curiosity, what is everyone's preferred method for drafting a costume pattern? Butchering something that already fits and copying? Draping and pinning? Or drawing something on the fabric...going balls to the wall and hope what you cut out is the right shape?

I've done the "official" drafting method (taking measurements, making slopers, adjusting, etc) but once you do that once, you know what your slopers are supposed to look like. Now I sketch the sloper from memory right on a muslin, adjust in sharpie, cut, and pray. I am usually off by 1/2" TOPS, so I trim a bit or add a bit, and then use the muslin as my pattern piece.

 

[Gizka]

I've done the "official" drafting method (taking measurements, making slopers, adjusting, etc) but once you do that once, you know what your slopers are supposed to look like. Now I sketch the sloper from memory right on a muslin, adjust in sharpie, cut, and pray. I am usually off by 1/2" TOPS, so I trim a bit or add a bit, and then use the muslin as my pattern piece.

I wish I was that talented! Hopefully one of these days I'll get there!

I have to start with something that is a base, even if it doesn't remotely resemble the final product. The only pattern I ever constructed completely from scratch and purely from measurements is my Stephanie Brown batsuit. I'll find out how well that worked in a few weeks at D*con!

On a different note...I absolutely LOVE this thread! Whenever I try to talk sewing with my husband he just looks at me blankly (or like a deer caught in headlights!), and he certainly isn't useful if I need help. Which is about how useful I am when he tries to run electronics and circuitry by me! :lol

 

[PoopaPapaPalps]

I sew but not regularly. My mother was a seamstress way back when, and being brought up with single parent, I learned many skills from being around her; sewing, needless, to say was one of the earlier things I learned.

I mostly hand-sew, though. I learned to use the machine ages ago and was quite good at it but that was a long time ago. I've forgotten most that stuff since, however, I did come into acquiring a sewing machine and should be getting back into the swing of things.

 

[pinder91]

pinder91 - If that's you in all those pictures, you are a chameleon! You pull off all those characters quite well. Fantastic job on the sewing too.

Thank you! That's me in every pic.

Just out of curiosity, what is everyone's preferred method for drafting a costume pattern? Butchering something that already fits and copying? Draping and pinning? Or drawing something on the fabric...going balls to the wall and hope what you cut out is the right shape?

I'd love to use the first method, but that never happens to something I'd be okay cutting up. The second only works occasionally. And the last approach I use for pretty much every costume I've made to date.

I learned quite a bit from some pattern making books that my mom had around the house. I'm also a visual guy, so just rummaging through patterns and seeing the full layout of the different patterns at the store gave me an idea of it's all done. It helps when modifying existing patterns.

I rarely just draw something out and go to town, but it has happened before and probably will again. :lol

 

[Darth Lars]

I have sewn a few things since I started with costuming 10 years ago, but nothing in the last two years. The costumes have had both hard pieces, scratch-made garments and bought garments that I often had to modify a bit. The only custom garment that I have bought was a flightsuit, that I modified a bit anyway.
I've made a Jedi, Gandalf the White, Rebel Commander, X-wing fighter pilot(s), and the winter version of the pilot. I'm about to start on a Endor Commando (vest, hat) and an Imperial Bridge Crew (hat, suit mods), once I have the room after a few other projects are done.

When making patterns, I have mostly measured on existing garments (without ripping them apart) and made test pieces out of muslin. I have also modified paper patterns somewhat.

 

[Darth Mule]

Just out of curiosity, what is everyone's preferred method for drafting a costume pattern? Butchering something that already fits and copying? Draping and pinning? Or drawing something on the fabric...going balls to the wall and hope what you cut out is the right shape?

I'd love to use the first method, but that never happens to something I'd be okay cutting up. The second only works occasionally. And the last approach I use for pretty much every costume I've made to date.

I do a combination of those things... Well, I generally don't butcher anything for a pattern. But I drape, I draft, and I alter existing. It just depends on what I'm working on and what needs done. If I already have a pattern that comes close to what I need, I'll mock it up and draw on all the details that are missing. This shows me where to cut it apart and create a new pattern.

I rarely do anything from scratch for myself anymore. I have so many patterns that SOMETHING in my drawer is close enough to what I need for me to get it the rest of the way there with very little work.

There are also certain flexible rules/guidelines when it comes to patterning:
Pants, Skirts, and sleeves are almost always drafted or altered from slopers or existing patterns.
Menswear is almost always drafted or altered from existing.
Women's tops...
For a lot of women's wear, there's no substitute for draping, so anyone woman that is serious about patterning their own stuff should invest in a good dress form. Not one of those adjustable ones either, like a good solid Superior, Wolf, or Modern. Alternatively, there's a company called My Twin Dress Forms that sells kits so you can make your own that matches your body Order - My Twin Dressforms & Pantsforms, made in the exact shape of your body! A must for the serious sewer
This is really just the next step up from doing a duct tape or paper tape dummy (paper tape is better as it doesn't stretch out over time) Clone Yourself A Fitting Assistant - Threads

One thing I always recommend for any patternmaker is to pick up a good reference book such as: Amazon.com: Patternmaking for Fashion Design (3rd Edition) (9780321034236): Helen Joseph Armstrong: Books
These are filled with easy to access information on how to do things like turn a plain, one-piece, straight sleeve pattern into whatever other style you need.

Are you going to Dragon Con this year? Myself, Cathy of GSTQ fashions, and a couple others will be doing a panel in the costume track on patterning. We usually try to cover a few techniques that you can do with little training. It's at 1pm on Saturday.

I think I just published a novel...

In a related note:
My undergrad professor published this article. http://costuming.dragoncon.org/media/duct_tape_draping_fclements.pdf
Actually a great tutorial for making corset patterns for yourself.

 

[charades]

Hooray for boys who can sew! I think everybody should know how to sew. It's such an important life skill. Nothing off the racks fits anyone perfectly.

For me, it depends on the costume, and my budget for that costume whether I'm going to modify a commercial pattern, tear apart old clothes, or drape. I'm quite lazy most of the time, though, so I do a lot of things from patterns someone else has already made.

 

[-VERTIGO-]

My mom has been sewing for about 35 years, and she started teaching me around the time I was 4 years old (I'm 24 now). I'm not amazing at it, as I haven't done it too much but I can handle just about anything if I take my time and put my mind to it. And in the rare case I can't, I call my mom and she shows me and I know for the future.

 

[Ibnzbass4]

A novice at best, but not afraid to try. Made my 6-panel cape and gauntlets using an old hand-me-down machine that once belonged to my mother. I also made the entire Robin suit for my son from scratch using an old set of pj's for reference. Sorry for the louse pics.

 

[Freya Willia]

I've done the "official" drafting method (taking measurements, making slopers, adjusting, etc) but once you do that once, you know what your slopers are supposed to look like. Now I sketch the sloper from memory right on a muslin, adjust in sharpie, cut, and pray. I am usually off by 1/2" TOPS, so I trim a bit or add a bit, and then use the muslin as my pattern piece.

This might be pretty similar to what I do... except I don't exactly have terminology for what I'm doing. I've taught myself how to re-create most shapes, but, made discoveries through trial and error. It would probably help if I went and read more about official ways of doing things patternwise.

Are you going to Dragon Con this year? Myself, Cathy of GSTQ fashions, and a couple others will be doing a panel in the costume track on patterning. We usually try to cover a few techniques that you can do with little training. It's at 1pm on Saturday.

*sigh* I'm not going. That's a shame, you and Cathy have excellent work, and not only that - it seems done much more efficiently than my own and I could probably learn a lot. I put my costumes on a budget scale that I really shouldn't - so I don't get to travel and show them off in person.

And one day, I will make my own dressform. I have two forms I use that are my measurements, except for the vertical aspects. They have torsos that are 2" longer than mine.

The manniquin I use for leather molding, sculpting, and some light heat forming. The other is really about as useful as a hanger.



JacobRyan, pinder91, and other bros- I'm glad you guys give your moms the creds! My grandmother got me my first sewing machine, so she gets the cred on my end.

 

[fleefromme]

I'm a bro and I'm re-learning how to sew. i just went to a thrift shop yesterday to get supplies for my nycc costume and there is was a 1966 singer sewing machine for $24.99. I picked it up plugged it and took home. As far as can tell it is in good condition and only need minor maintenance.

@ all of you experienced people: what does it mean if someone says my sewing machine runs like a hammer?

 

[Gorgot3000]

Guy's ... you rock !

here is some costume parts I've sew .

sleeve on the glove

I made the pants and the shirt is made from a Rubies costume I've strip and rebuilt from scratch to fit like the movie scene

the soft abdomen part

all of these are not perfect but I'm very satisfied how it's turn from me vs a sewing machine ..lol

 

[DeathProof]

Gorgot, were you at San Diego comic con this year?

 

[Gorgot3000]

Nope ! it wasn't me , It was another member work
see here : http://www.therpf.com/f9/spaceballs-dark-helmet-now-finished-153150/

 

[Felgacarb]

I say, sew on, my brothers!

 

[NormanF]

I say, sew on, my brothers!

Sweet!

 

[Darth Mule]

Awesome work everyone! Did I mention that I didn't expect such a response from this? I think I did.

Looking forward to seeing you all at Dragon Con. There's an RPF meetup somewhere/sometime.

 

[aeonpulse]

Great idea with this response thread to Abby's! I'm happy you didn't go with the "I have a dong and I make stuff" title...

Personally, I know very little about sewing. But I'm dying to learn more. I usually ask my girlfriend to make things for me (who is a very talented seamstress), or I commission other talented people. There are so many awesome projects floating in my head, if only I had the skills to make them a reality!

You guys and your skills with sewing, and molding, and casting, etc, etc... I'm jealous.

 

[MrTrouble]

Suit up! And be legen.... wait for it and I hope you're not lactose intolerant because the second half of that word is DARY! Legendary!

 

[Darth Mule]

Oh you flatterer! *blushes* (You've got some fancy stuff yourself!)

Darth Mule - Your work is truly impressive. I can't pick a favourite!

pinder91 - If that's you in all those pictures, you are a chameleon! You pull off all those characters quite well. Fantastic job on the sewing too.

Why thank you miss! I just saw some of your work over on the "bewbs" thread (yes, I altered the spelling to protect the innocent). Love your work as well. Really digging the Deer fawn. Don't know why I'm particularly drawn to that one, but I am.