DeAgostini 1:1 Studio Scale Millenium Falcon Support Group and Info

kokkari said:
It's cause their prototype parts bro. They haven't been mass produced yet and are often made from a 3d printer first.
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Okay, that explains it. I did not know if the prototype was 3D printed or scratched.

Thanks

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TazMan2000 said:
Look up 3D printing on Wikipedia. I think you may be surprised at how many types of 3D printing there are.

TazMan2000
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Actually I taught a improved lesson to some of my students on 3D printing and they were amazed at not just what was being done but what was coming, and what is already here but not as commonly known like 4D printing, etc.

They were going all over school telling everyone about the amazing 3D printing and these were kids who normally were not interested in anything.

Very cool and scary stuff coming
 
I've been doing alot of research on 3D printing and the different mediums available... I'd love to get my own 3D printer one day so that I can print up my own custom parts for modeling, and what I've discovered is that there are basically 6 different types of 3D printers out there right now (7 if you include some of the newer that are still being tested but haven't been released). Here's what I got for ya... List of different technologies used in 3D printers

#1: Stereolithography

This method was invented in 1986 and was typically used in the first generation commercial 3D printers. Printers using stereolithography concentrate the beam of UV rays on the surface of the object to be replicated. The object is filled with resin (photopolymer). When light hits the resin, you get a high resolution 3 D model of the object you have used (SLA or SL).

#2: Fused deposition modeling

FDM, or Fused deposition modeling was also invented in the late 80’s. Using this technology, a few drops of certain melted thermoplastic materials are joined together to form a shape. As the material hardens, a 3 D object is formed.

#3: Selective Laser Sintering

SLS - This is somewhat similar to stereolithography but instead of using liquid resin, you can use powdered material in the vat. The material could be anything from nylon, ceramics, glass, aluminum, to steel or silver.

#4: Selective laser melting

Selective laser melting (SLM) works similar to SLS. However, instead of simply combining the powder granules together, the powder is melted.

#5: Electronic Beam Melting

In 3D printers operated by the Electronic Beam Melting (EBM) technique, electronic beams are used instead of UV rays.

#6: Laminated Object Manufacturing

In this process, to manufacture an object, plastic, paper and metal are glued together. After that, they are cut with a knife or a laser to give them a shape. Kinda like cutting various layers and gluing them all together and then smoothed out afterward.

They are getting better with 3D printing and the technology is getting refined all the time. I've heard that they actually have been thinking of sending up a couple of robots to the moon or even mars that will use the soil to "print" a complete structure or habitat before anyone even gets there... it's an exciting time. I'm sure as time passes the tech will get faster and more detailed, but for now this is what we've got available!
 
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That 4D technology is interesting but way off from becoming mainstream and that's fine for me. I'll be happy with a 3D printer that prints in high resolution and quickly.
Unless any other technology makes a breakthrough on price, speed and quality, I'm thinking that SLA is the way to go.

TazMan2000
 
Yeah... that's the route I'm thinking too... There are a bunch of low cost printers out there as well as a couple of put it together yourself kits that I've been keeping an eye on.
 
LrdSatyr8 said:
You're welcome... I keep forgetting to do so... so many new links come out and some links end up dying... tuff to keep up with it all sometimes!
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I made one like this for National Treasure. It took a lot to keep it updated. Seemed like a good idea at the time.


Tom
 
I have preordered, too.

I hope that there is a way one can modify it to have the original mounting points. I'd love to be able to film it they way they did back then. Has someone already thought about that?
 
thorst said:
I have preordered, too.

I hope that there is a way one can modify it to have the original mounting points. I'd love to be able to film it they way they did back then. Has someone already thought about that?
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There's always a way to modify it for the original mounting points, but it would also mean sacrificing a lot of other things. For example... I know they had a mounting point on the rear where the engines are, one on the bottom where the gun turret is, and I believe both of the escape pods came off to reveal mounting points. Now... seeing as this is the full size 32" inch Falcon, first thing you would lose are all the internal details. You'd have to create a sturdy mounting skeleton that would fit on the inside of the hull. Plan out the mounting holes prior to installing it thou. You'd also have to make sure the lighting on the engine area was completely compact and removeable so that you could leave the lights on when it's mounted on one of the other positions, but can remove them when you're not using them. You'll have to be able to hide these mounting points as well... put them under the details or have the details cover them easily so they can be removed so you can get to the mounting points. It can be done, but honestly, I plan to make this in landing mode with all the lights and bells and whistles and under a glass case so it won't be moved or damaged. Just plan it out and think about where you want everything to go and what you want to do BEFORE you actually do it.
 
Yes, I don't plan to build the interior in it. It's accurate to neither the 32" model nor to the full scale set, so I see no point in spending hundrets of € to make it a bit better. The ramp is also not on my build list, as I see no use in it. Better cover the seams to make it more accurate.

The best way to do it would be to connect the mounting points to the kit's metal framework in some way, but I have absolutely no experience in working with metal. If someone has good ideas, please let me know!
 
thorst said:
The best way to do it would be to connect the mounting points to the kit's metal framework in some way, but I have absolutely no experience in working with metal. If someone has good ideas, please let me know!
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No, you do not want to rely on the kits metal framework for structural support from mounting points other than the ones they designed into it for wall mounting. It is possible it would work, but you wouldn't know for sure until you got the whole kit together and tried to mount it. Don't forget the metal framework components are made from cast zinc, which is fairly brittle and weak, at least compared with aluminum. Instead you need to design an aluminum armature, or skeleton, that has the desired mounting points, and which is structurally strong enough to bear the weight of the model (25 pounds), then work out mechanical attachments to connect the model framework to the armature, then assemble the rest of the surface details around it. Complex, but not impossible. It would be best if you had access to a machine shop to make the components. Typically motion control model mounts were based around a 5/6" or 3/4" diameter steel rod for a model of this size. Keep in mind that once you've gone this route the supplied landing gear might not be able to bear the extra weight of the armature and you might not be able to display the model "on the ground". Maybe, but again, you wouldn't know until after you try it. Risky.
 
Good point, Dave. About the landing gear, I have no intention to use it either, so that's not a problem. I guess we'll have to wait until the model is finished to look into a way to do this. I first need to find a new place to store this anyways ;-)
 
I agree... the cast zinc pot metal they are using for the framework would not be very good for welding or soldering to. I have hear tale of using square aluminum rods to create a good internal armature for mounting, but you'll have to use some heavy duty gluing to make sue the entire armature is solid to the inside of the hull. Not that it can't be done, but you can't use anything too heat intensive curing wise or it will melt the plastic while it cures.
 
Im in! I placed a bulk order and will get a box containing everything up to this point. Then regular subscription after that. If you are thinking about doing it, It cost me $601? but I got everything shipped for $1. They have a Christmas special going on right now.
 
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