BTTF Futaba Delorean Remote Project

[dr_slurpee]

Fluxcapacitor, I'd LOVE to get a couple casts of the stop lens for my molex switches!

 

[Fluxcapacitor]

Well, when i get around to making one for myself ill see if its gonna be practical to make more. Not opposed to making extra.

If anyone though has a line to the unibox enclosure though that would be wonderful.

 

[Footog23]

I would be interested as well. Even without the electronics. I've had a remote that is half-finished for over a year. It doesn't have to work. I just want it to have accurate looking parts.

In case there is anyone out there who can help me create a film accurate looking(not necessarily functional) remote? I have the Futaba red label just waiting to be modified...and I would ruin it if I tried...I'm making a BTTF Fan film and can do effects digitally if need be. Please anyone can you help us?

 

[Fluxcapacitor]

Help you how?

 

[Roland]

... Please anyone can you help us?

The only help I could give you, is a vinyl sticker of the "PCM" wording in the correct green color. The sticker is cut at the edges of the characters.

 

[Footog23]

The only help I could give you, is a vinyl sticker of the "PCM" wording in the correct green color. The sticker is cut at the edges of the characters.

I will take any help possible. That sticker is a great start. Thanks!

- - - Updated - - -

Help you how?

I have the remote and would destroy it trying to make it look film ready. I would be willing to pay someone for the parts and their time to modify my remote to look proper. More if it semi-functional.

 

[Jedifyfe]

I will take any help possible. That sticker is a great start. Thanks!

I have the remote and would destroy it trying to make it look film ready. I would be willing to pay someone for the parts and their time to modify my remote to look proper. More if it semi-functional.

The problem you will run into is that all the parts are rare and expensive. Finished, accurate remote parts would cost roughly $200-$300 then you would have to add labor. I've seen finished accurate remotes sell for $750-$800.

 

[Footog23]

The problem you will run into is that all the parts are rare and expensive. Finished, accurate remote parts would cost roughly $200-$300 then you would have to add labor. I've seen finished accurate remotes sell for $750-$800.

Are you estimating the price of the remote as well? Or just parts and labor? I already have that, and would be willing to pay the other fees. Its worth it to me to have everything done right, instead of me ruining it.

 

[Fluxcapacitor]

There's anal screen accuracy, and there's styrene scratch built that fools the non anal. The remote could be built much easier then the flux and time circuits display.

Nw, for your story are any of these props not complete? Works in progress for the story? If so that makes the whole job even easier.

 

[Footog23]

There's anal screen accuracy, and there's styrene scratch built that fools the non anal. The remote could be built much easier then the flux and time circuits display.

Nw, for your story are any of these props not complete? Works in progress for the story? If so that makes the whole job even easier.

Well I am normally anal...but if we can fool the fans(and you all will know better) I can live with that. Unfortunately, the items need to be completed and sitting on Doc's workbench, not yet installed into the Delorean.

 

[Fluxcapacitor]

I should be able to help you, PM me and we should be able to work something out.

 

[Oneminde]

@ Fluxcapacitor

I have the MOLEX momentary switch and hold on to you'r hat, the, Stanley display. I can support you here. I need the stop lens if you are up for that ? I am also seeking the UNIBOX 140

Picture of my collection so far. I have 3 EIMAC HV Vacuum Switches (original), sold my one spare I had.

 

[Oneminde]

Yes, I am finding that is the case. You know what would help would be a list of parts or part numbers in a spreadsheet/file so that I know exactly what to look for online.

As far as I know, this is the only place atm where you can find the Molex 1820M momentary switch - wrong lens but right part. (SWP) 01-54-6010
http://www.surplussales.com/switches/swpushb-1.html

I bought a bunch from www.tedss.com with red lens, but also wrong since it is written AEG on it.
http://www.tedss.com/2027001797

 

[Oneminde]

HUGE UPDATE.

According to a source I have in the US - I live in Sweden - Unibox is alive. He talked to them a few minutes ago. Meaning you should be able to order you'r #140 which is the one you want. Give them a call.

Unibox Enclosures
3620 Sacramento Drive, Suite 101
San Luis Obispo, CA 93401
800-814-8667 or 805-785-0900

http://www.uniboxinfo.com/standard.html

 

[Fluxcapacitor]

Hi, I can make a mold of the Stanley displays for us all.

Also, I can purchase the moles bases for a lot cheaper and provide them with a correct lens once I either find my mold or just make a new one.

 

[Oneminde]

Hi, I can make a mold of the Stanley displays for us all.

Also, I can purchase the moles bases for a lot cheaper and provide them with a correct lens once I either find my mold or just make a new one.

I like the idea of making parts available for them who want to replicate the Doc's remote. I will do what I can to support such a package solution.

For the red labels used on the Unibox as well on the Fluxcapacitor etc, that comes from a Avery / Rotex 880 Label Maker - use 1/2" tape size.

 

[Oneminde]

I am working on the Stanley display and found the place I purchased my Molex switches.

----> http://www.sciplus.com/p/MOLEX-SWITCH_42572

 

[Oneminde]

This post is regarding the Stanley Electronics Inc - Incandescent seven segment display.

- I've spent some time today and investigated - again - the display and how it is incorporated into the remote. I will repost some pictures for you which has been posted in the this tread before.

- Bellow is a picture from different angles of the display I have. This is a copy of the original which you can see on the right and finally a picture from the movie.



- I am fully aware of the fact that these displays are very hard to come by, I spent a looooong time before I obtained the one I have. I've been talking to another member here about making these available and I certainly positive to making this possible. Before I started to investigate exactly how the display(s) where mounted on the remote, I was sure that there where a gap between them, but looking at the pictures and movie again, I found that this is not the case. There is no gap, meaning: the display I have can be used as is in terms of how close they are to one another. I will then be able to produce a replica and skip the part of making single displays (3), it's simpler that way :thumbsup

- The original display use 5Vdc 60mA miniature incandescent lamp, anything ell's is not a true replication !
- What I am missing is the metal plate holding the PCB in place, the PCB itself and the bracket behind the display as seen in the second picture. These need to be developed and manufactured. Checking the picture, we can see that these are professional cable lugs with a flat pin exposed for the wire connection and I am planing to use this.


- The picture below shows the display and wire connection - common (-) ground. Reposting from prior posts.



- I guess that is it for now. It's time for me to make a mold and sort out the problems that might occur. Also design the backplate and PCB.

- When I am done, I will offer the display as a package with all parts necessary to make it work at a reasonable price.

​GOOD NEWS ?????

 

[Fluxcapacitor]

Incredible news. This thread has gotten new life and a new pace.

 

[EmmaInCandyland]

Oneminde You should make an interest thread where you can sell all of the pieces together haha, I would take a set x)!Especially since I'm not living in America, so it would reduce the shipping cost, if someone could gather everything and ship them all together, nah?