Iron man motorised faceplate electronics tutorial!!!

Finally got my Uno delivered and I'm pretty advanced: I can make an led come on, AND make it go off again! ;) As I haven't made the helmet yet, I've decided to go for flight stabalisers in the back first. I've finished the back piece, and it seems easier to do than making the hinge system work for the helmet. Hopefully if that goes well, it will be easier to try & tackle the face plate mechanism. Will post pics if/when I manage it.
 
@lolzprox-

its ok.. do the best you can..

Im still not 100% clear..

1.) I thought all the codes posted/shared here used a button? (so that should already be done)..

I also thought all codes posted had the leds portion as well?

2.) Im not sure whos codes your using.. maybe the author can chime in..
if you wanted to use my code sample.. I can follow along and help.



@Dagibbon-

awesome..

I would think the flight stabalizers and the faceplate projects would be VERY similar..

the only real 'change' would be the movement of the servo IMHO...
 
@xl97 hmm... maybe that way of explaining will confuse you, basically, these codes here are all used in arduino to control servos and LEDs for the helmet right?

I'd like to add in another function, which is to control the lights for the Arc Reactor/RT unit.

Is it possible to do that? o_o
 
lolzprox said:
@xl97 hmm... maybe that way of explaining will confuse you, basically, these codes here are all used in arduino to control servos and LEDs for the helmet right?

I'd like to add in another function, which is to control the lights for the Arc Reactor/RT unit.

Is it possible to do that? o_o
Click to expand...

Actually i was about to ask the same sort of thing for adding a 3rd servo as i want to use this tutorial on my mass effect helmet to open in 3 parts.
 
Adding another servo shouldnt be a problem if your battery pack can afford the new current needs..


also you'll need to have another pin available...




@lolzprox-


depends on what you wanna do with your Arc Reactor I suppose.

if its just 1-2 leds... should be a problem.. same as the leds for the eyes..

if the leds need is less what a pin can give.. great.. if not.. you'll have to use a transistor or something to control the led 'group/array'..
 
PLEASE SOME HELP!!!! i got an arduino uno board and when i upload the code it looks like it stop to load in middle. can someone please tell me what's going on??
 
Need some more info than that... :)

Can you go back and upload the demo BLINK sketch/code?

'stopped' how? any error messages?

What IDE version are you using?

Did the Arduino ever work properly? (ie: you've done other test/projects before attempting this? to ensure all drivers were installed correctly...etc?)


Do you have the correct board chosen?

Do you have the correct COM port chosen?
 
right now im uploading the sweep code

there is no message its just the progression bar that stop moving its been almost an hour that the code is uploading and it is still did not moving

i double check if everything was okay so i really don't know what's going on ...
 
you 'did' double check?


Can you upload just the BLINK sketch?

that ONLY needs the Arduino.. as the led used is the on-board SMD led by pin 13..

Its odd that it doesnt even time out and give you an error message..


re-boot yoru computer..


also.. (again).. has it EVER worked? is this the first thing you've done with it?

Where did you get the board from? (link) Does it have the bootloader on it to even begin accepting sketches (code)?
 
Sometime the Arduino dont like the USB port, specially the USB port in the front of the PC. Try the plug on the back, if yours is connected in the front or over some extension.
 
(make sure you have the correct drivers installed as well)..

change to a new USB cable to rule it out as well..
 
rebooted my computer re-installed the sofware and upload the blink code and everythinng was fine so i guess it was my computer.. lol what a fail :p
 
I see this thread still ticking along nicely. I will update the first post when I get a decent amount of free time. The first post will eventually be a complete tut and the rest of the thread will be extras.

Be nice to see some progress from people too. Must be lots of lurkers not saying anything.
 
I'll start my own thread, outlining my 'tut' and approach as well.. since there are so many different way and so many different things mentioned in this thread.. :)
 
7sinzz said:
I see this thread still ticking along nicely. I will update the first post when I get a decent amount of free time. The first post will eventually be a complete tut and the rest of the thread will be extras.

Be nice to see some progress from people too. Must be lots of lurkers not saying anything.
Click to expand...

That's great news bro. i know you are as all of us a busy guy so will wait patiently. I have starting moulding my helmet now so once it's painted and hinged I am going to want some razzmatazz for it :)
 
Hey 7sinzz, followed the guide and got my servo working great on the bread board. Had the same noisy servo problem you did in rest position til I changed the 0 degrees part of the code to start at 10 degrees instead, and that solved it. Am going to order a couple of servos and probably an arduino pro mini and get it wired up permanently. Will post pics when I've got it working with the back flaps. Thanks again for all the help. :)
 
Dagibbon said:
Hey 7sinzz, followed the guide and got my servo working great on the bread board. Had the same noisy servo problem you did in rest position til I changed the 0 degrees part of the code to start at 10 degrees instead, and that solved it. Am going to order a couple of servos and probably an arduino pro mini and get it wired up permanently. Will post pics when I've got it working with the back flaps. Thanks again for all the help. :)
Click to expand...


I had the same problem.. I had the servo connected to 5.5V output but then I moved it to the 3.3V output and that helped
 
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