Iron man motorised faceplate electronics tutorial!!!

Iwas using my ipad and went to the appstore and i searched for arduino and found some cool apps, even an arduino simulator, its 9.99$ thou but i downloaded a reference app for free, i will purchase the simulator next
 
ok so i got a question, after i programmed the arduino nano knock off it turns fine with the futaba s3003s i got and they'll turn 180 degrees no problem, though if i set it to 90 using one of them doesnt quite make the last mm and jerks a bit to fix in place. Also when i use tower pro MG90S micro servos one servo turns fine but the other one will turn back and forth and not stop, this is the same program as the one on the first page. Any ideas?
How are you powering the servos?
 
True that, I love my Arduino Pro Mini, the thing is tiny, I tried to roll my own minimal Arduino circuit using a ATMega328, but the chip along is about the size of my mini. It was fun to make and and I'll probably use one in the chest of my suit but for my helm I don't think you can beat the Pro Mini's size. and it's only about 10 bux from sparkfun.
 
true enough!.. with the low prices.. the nano, pro/pro-mini are all afforadable enough to leave in a prop/project now!..

but when you learn to make your own.. you can integrate other simple stuff that may be more project related too! :)

Im just a beginner / DIY guy like everyone else here. :)

I try to use more smd parts more and design or even home etch boards

I now use ATmega328P-AU (an smd version of the chip) in projects, to save on space too

if the board only has a few parts and I dont spring for a stencil.. I just grab a tooth pick, some solder paste... and use a $17.00 (USD) toaster oven from wal-mart to re-flow it...


like these.. all Arduino (variations)

group_sized.jpg
:)
 
Those look pretty good! I haven't experimented with surface mount components just yet. But I'm planing on picking up some and a hot air gun to give it a go. Have to wait though because I have to shell out like $1,000 to get my RX-7 Inspected... Stupid Japanese laws!!! lol
 
good luck!..


I need to get a hot-air station as well... (might come in handy for removing all the mistakes I do!) lol
 
Hey guys im back again to ask question. Lolol hahaha.

Does anyone here know how to control the speed of the servos using the commands shown on the first post? o_O tried to change

for(pos = 180; pos >= 0; pos -= 10) // goes from 180 degrees to 0 degrees
{
myservo.write(pos); // tell servo to go to position 'pos'
}
for(pos1 = 0; pos1 <= 180; pos1 += 10) // goes from 0 degrees to 180 degrees
{
myservo1.write(pos1); // tell servo to go to position 'pos1'
}

to

for(pos = 180; pos >= 0; pos -= 1) // goes from 180 degrees to 0 degrees
{
myservo.write(pos); // tell servo to go to position 'pos'
}
for(pos1 = 0; pos1 <= 180; pos1 += 1) // goes from 0 degrees to 180 degrees
{
myservo1.write(pos1); // tell servo to go to position 'pos1'
}

But it doesnt seem to have ANY difference? o_O
 
Hey guys im back again to ask question. Lolol hahaha.

Does anyone here know how to control the speed of the servos using the commands shown on the first post? o_O tried to change


to



But it doesnt seem to have ANY difference? o_O

Add a delay(50) or something after the servo write may help
 
just an FYI for furture programming..

always try to stay way form using DELAYS....

that stop all code.. even other things going on (like leds blinking or something)..

look at the blink without delay demo in the Arduino IDE to understand how to created 'timed' events....

(or checkout my code approach posted many pages ago.. :) )
 
IMHO.. it shouldnt.


its doing what you are telling it to do..

on every cycle/loop... you are telling it:

1.) check the current position for its 'bounds/limits'
2.) if not at its 'target position' yet.. move 'x' degrees...
3.) pause.. wait 50mSecs..
4.) check to see if we are in our 'target position'..
5.) if not.. move the servo a little more
6.) wait another 50 mSecs to see if we are 'there'..

that is why it seems 'jerky'... at least to me.
 
ok so i put the servos on a separate power source and the futabas will turn the 180, but the micro servos the tower pro mg90s still has problems where one would turn uncontrollably back and forth non stop or the other either doesn't turn or will turns but still wants to keep going cuz i hear clicky noises. i got a pack of 4 and its the same result no matter which of the micro ones i use so its not the servo itself.
 
Has anyone worked on the mechanics for the mk 42 helmet? I know this is off topic but I need help on trying to reverse two of my servos, just didn't know if there was an easy way todo it? I'm new to code. I modified a code and got two servos to work but I would love to run four to have a nice clean open and shut. The top of the helmet opens out then up sp the longer mk42 faceplate clears the jaw. Can some one please help?
 
you'll have to post the code you are using so people can see where you are...where to make changes..etc.

(and put code or quote tags around it) :)
 
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