Iron man motorised faceplate electronics tutorial!!!

[surrealkiller1]

I love this got me motivated to finally get my faceplate moving. I used mightyjohns style and used the pololu controller as seen in his thread. Anyone know how to code for that one? I have the code mightyjohn put up but want to have my eyes do the delay flash/ flicker on when the face plate closes. Tried to copy the code from the arduino code here but no luck.
Thanks

 

[takaaaa]

I just ordered my UNO and now shopping on hobbyking for two servos. but I have a question about what the servo specs mean.
I noticed that most specs are something like "4.6kg/ .14sec/ 22g"
I know that 22g is the weight and the others are torque and speed.
I want my faceplate to open and close fast, but not finished building my helmet yet, so idk how heavy the faceplate is.

So will the higher number stall torque mean that it can lift a heavier weight? and the lower number speed, mean the faster is can move?

 

[michaudtime]

Takaaa - yes that is correct,

On a side note, I got my helm in and I started wireing up everything to temp mount it all, and I shorted out my mother loving Vuzix glasses. I was well... upset to say the least, I ordered a Chinese cheapo one that looks like it will be a decent replacement, now I have to wait for it to get here. Here's a vid of it just running an open and close loop on my desk. Apr 14, 2013 1:44am | Facebook

 

[Andy W]

Takaaa - yes that is correct,

On a side note, I got my helm in and I started wireing up everything to temp mount it all, and I shorted out my mother loving Vuzix glasses. I was well... upset to say the least, I ordered a Chinese cheapo one that looks like it will be a decent replacement, now I have to wait for it to get here. Here's a vid of it just running an open and close loop on my desk. Apr 14, 2013 1:44am | Facebook

Uhg, that is to bad with your glasses! Hope the cheapp one will to the job. I like your helmet with the pinhole!

 

[xl97]

whats the link to the chinese cheapie your getting?

 

[Honus]

I just ordered my UNO and now shopping on hobbyking for two servos. but I have a question about what the servo specs mean.
I noticed that most specs are something like "4.6kg/ .14sec/ 22g"
I know that 22g is the weight and the others are torque and speed.
I want my faceplate to open and close fast, but not finished building my helmet yet, so idk how heavy the faceplate is.

So will the higher number stall torque mean that it can lift a heavier weight? and the lower number speed, mean the faster is can move?

Yes- the higher the torque number the more weight it can lift. That torque rating is the stall torque however- that is the point where the servo can no longer move so it's a maximum number. Ideally you never want to approach the stall torque because the servo's current drain will skyrocket at that number. The servos I use have a stall torque rating of 88oz/in @ 7.4v so that means with a one inch long servo arm it can just lift 88oz- anything beyond that and the servo will stall. Make your servo arm three inches long and divide your torque rating by a factor of three so you can immediately see how linkages will affect the servo power. Drag or binding in your helmet linkage will also load the servo. The .14sec rating is the time in seconds it takes the servo to rotate 60 degrees.

 

[xl97]

as mentioned.. under load the servo will take ALOT of current..

make sure the battery packs you are using will support this..

 

[michaudtime]

Virtual Private Cinema Theater Digital Video Eyewear Glasses 3D Stereo Sound | eBay

This is the glasses I picked up, they have a built in battery but I may scrap it but Like I said I don't have it yet only time will tell

 

[takaaaa]

I have a few questions about LEDs. I bought LEDs for the eyes, hands and chest. I plan on leaving the hands and chest always on. I have a total of six 12v 24SMD LED disks.

They look like this front and back



First thing, is that I was to test all 6 of them, just to make sure they work or if i have to return any.
Can I just directly wire them to a 8 AA battery pack, just to test each disk?

Also for my suit, I plan on having one in both hands and 4 in the chest. I want then to be as bright as they can, since i can always just defuse the light if it's too bright. Should I wire them all in parallel and to one 8 AA pack? or all separate power sources? is a resistor necessary also?

 

[xl97]

depends on the configuration of your battery pack I guess..

but if you make it into a 12v pack.. you could probably test/light them up..

Im not sure how they are set-up from the pics?

but guessing..

Id say that its maybe 8 x sets of 4 leds in a single group?

one resistor per 'group'..

Is that a voltage regulator on the back?

With all those leds.. your going to need some current..

and trying to use ALL of them.. will require even more current..

are they 5050 package leds on there? (look like it)

which usually take about 60mA per 'led' in normal conditions..

Im 'guessing' (Id wait for someone with more experience then myself here..LOL).. maybe a total of 480mA 'per disk'...

you'd need multiple amps!!?

 

[takaaaa]

depends on the configuration of your battery pack I guess..

but if you make it into a 12v pack.. you could probably test/light them up..

Im not sure how they are set-up from the pics?

but guessing..

Id say that its maybe 8 x sets of 4 leds in a single group?

one resistor per 'group'..

Is that a voltage regulator on the back?

With all those leds.. your going to need some current..

and trying to use ALL of them.. will require even more current..

are they 5050 package leds on there? (look like it)

which usually take about 60mA per 'led' in normal conditions..

Im 'guessing' (Id wait for someone with more experience then myself here..LOL).. maybe a total of 480mA 'per disk'...

you'd need multiple amps!!?

They are 1210 LEDs. Im horrible with electronics, so Im not sure if thats a voltage regulator but on the back of it, it says "MB6S".

 

[xl97]

Im just learning myself..

it seems to be a rectifier:

MB6S-E3/80 Vishay Semiconductor Diodes Division | MB6S-E3/80GITR-ND | DigiKey

never used one myself before..

seems to convert AC to DC?

are these for cars? what is the original purpose for these?

oh.. 1210 leds are much smaller.. and dont take as much current then..
(always check datasheet to be sure on your led specs though)

 

[takaaaa]

Im just learning myself..

it seems to be a rectifier:

MB6S-E3/80 Vishay Semiconductor Diodes Division | MB6S-E3/80GITR-ND | DigiKey

never used one myself before..

seems to convert AC to DC?

are these for cars? what is the original purpose for these?

oh.. 1210 leds are much smaller.. and dont take as much current then..
(always check datasheet to be sure on your led specs though)

I believe the original purpose is used for a car. Would the lazy man's solution be to just give each one its own power source? I dont mind wearing a vest of AA batteries. LOL

 

[Starx]

Hey everyone! Just wanted to say this thread is amazing and thanks to everyone for the hard work and teaching/helping everyone! I just finished reading all 22 pages and am blown away by how much i have learned from everyone and this thread! I am however curious to ask, is the breadboard part of the final assembly? Or is the breadboard just used for testing the circuits? Thanks in advance!

 

[michaudtime]

Just for testing, it just makes life easier to make sure everything works on the breadboard and then solder everything when done.

 

[Drack]

Hey everyone! Just wanted to say this thread is amazing and thanks to everyone for the hard work and teaching/helping everyone! I just finished reading all 22 pages and am blown away by how much i have learned from everyone and this thread! I am however curious to ask, is the breadboard part of the final assembly? Or is the breadboard just used for testing the circuits? Thanks in advance!

Yes the bread board is just for testing so you can get everything set before you make your final circuit board. I am not sure exactly how you make the final boards but its easy enough. Just need to read up how to do it or one of the more experienced guys here might add a guide to the basics in the thread.

 

[Starx]

Ah. Ok. Thanks guys!

 

[xl97]

IMHO.. not only the breadboard 'just for testing'... but using a full blown Arduino UNO (or other) is also 'just' for testing/development..

Not only does a real Arduino UNO board take up a lot of space, but they also cost alot of money.. compared to a minimal Arduino circuit that costs around $8-$10.00 tops.

The Arduino board has lots of 'extras' that are nice to have when developing a project.. but may not all be needed in the final project...

I suggest o everyone that seek out the Arduino breadboard or Arduino minimal circuit links/articles...

and learn how to make a minimal Arduino as well.. this will save you tons of time & money on future props/projects.. all while keeping your main Arduino board 'safe'.. and useable as your main DEV platform..

you can even etch your own home made pcb's to solder these parts too..

its a very nice/handy skill to have, to quickly make/throw an arduino (and not worry about ever taking it back out when costs is $8.00) into a prop to get blinkies or motor movement or sounds..etc..

 

[J326]

ok so i got a question, after i programmed the arduino nano knock off it turns fine with the futaba s3003s i got and they'll turn 180 degrees no problem, though if i set it to 90 using one of them doesnt quite make the last mm and jerks a bit to fix in place. Also when i use tower pro MG90S micro servos one servo turns fine but the other one will turn back and forth and not stop, this is the same program as the one on the first page. Any ideas?

 

[J326]

ok so i got a question, after i programmed the arduino nano knock off it turns fine with the futaba s3003s i got and they'll turn 180 degrees no problem, though if i set it to 90 using one of them doesnt quite make the last mm and jerks a bit to fix in place. Also when i use tower pro MG90S micro servos one servo turns fine but the other one will turn back and forth and not stop, this is the same program as the one on the first page. Any ideas?