Yes, in a week I'll be back from vacation(very sad I can't fit the E into the car), and perhaps witht the rest, I'll be back to reall yget thisa thing cranked out. Thanks again for watching us everyone...
Here Goes Something Awesome!
- Thread starter Bryancd
- Start date
CONNFESSS.......
NOO??? Cardinal Bigels . . .THE COMFY CHAIR.....
Vacation was great, but was i ever wanting to get back home and get this thing sealed up.. B)
NOO??? Cardinal Bigels . . .THE COMFY CHAIR.....
Vacation was great, but was i ever wanting to get back home and get this thing sealed up.. B)
:lol
On vaca, my girlfreind caught me doing this. Thought you'd all find it kinda funny
Now as you can see, the E is ready for filling and sanding, and then the blue grid... I'll try for the end of the day...(it's early here)
On vaca, my girlfreind caught me doing this. Thought you'd all find it kinda funny
Now as you can see, the E is ready for filling and sanding, and then the blue grid... I'll try for the end of the day...(it's early here)
clancampbell
Sr Member
Sorry....BLUE GRID? Do you mean the deflector grid lines are BLUE?
Rich
Rich
Hey guys. Sorry to make you look without pics, but how do I take photos of the nmodel in the dark without the giant blur??
Let me know your suggestions, and you'll get to see this thing's hull lit..
Let me know your suggestions, and you'll get to see this thing's hull lit..
a table top is good. Of course, I'm not an expert but you can also turn off the flash (if you're using a digital canera) and set it on timed long exposure using the self-timer function to fire the shutter (if you're using an SLR). Or get a cable release to hold the shutter open. that way you won't be touching the camera and possibly inducing shake.
If you have a handheld flash you can step back and fire a burst while the shutter is open to provide some fill light. Can't tell you what aperture settings you'd need though... :eek
cheers
Steve
If you have a handheld flash you can step back and fire a burst while the shutter is open to provide some fill light. Can't tell you what aperture settings you'd need though... :eek
cheers
Steve
Hello again all. I'm a little behind, but the next few days should prove productive.
First things first. The hull is sealed with the electronics intact and I'm happy to report no blown or damaged bulbs. I've done the last lighting test (seen here in Ultra-Bright.... form) and am doing the base coats of the blue/grey/green paneling between neck and pylons. In these pics you'll see the frist laydown of the pattern. It's very basic, and the colors are always bright under the flash. Let me assure you all, unless you are doing the ILM 1701A paint job, the colors should be muted. After some more detailing is completed on the two sides, and the shuttlebay is sealed up, our light coat of white will the panels and make them blend in a little more. After this is done, the neck will be attached over the three lights(2 spots and neck window lights), sanded and finished. After this, the nacelles will be mounted, as their lights are run, and then that detailing will be complete.
At Bryan's request, the light blue panel grid lines were toned down( I got carried away) with a thin mix of white silver that I capilaried along the lines, and then gave the ship a new look that I like alot. It can best be seen in the pic of the finished saucer(it's enough to make me cry). If you're building the 1701A, I believe the panel lines area dark purple, so I assumed a lighter color on the 1701. Check Cloudster's sight, and you be the judge for your model.
A note on the lighting, the original plan was to have a typical tranformer led from outlet to the two boards in the base, and it would be 120vac, which is typical for any home, down to 16vac on a dimmer switch for blinker speed, but as you can see, they are much too bright, and even with heavy coats of grey primerand black interior paint, we still have light bleed all over the place. I freaked to say the least . . . So I'm off to the stores to find a lower conversion rate, or lower dimmer. Whichever I find first. As I said way back in the begining, lighting is new for me, so I'm letting you know what mistakes I'm making so my incompitence comes of as shared knowledge
Also included is a shot I never posted of the arboretum. It really looks great throught the windows, and you can kinda see it in the light pic. I do have to add one more coat of transparent blue over the cloud decal(on top of the clear plastic part) to give it thick blue light.
So I think that's it. big week... Enjoy and see you all next week..
Thanks as always wackychimp. B)
First things first. The hull is sealed with the electronics intact and I'm happy to report no blown or damaged bulbs. I've done the last lighting test (seen here in Ultra-Bright.... form) and am doing the base coats of the blue/grey/green paneling between neck and pylons. In these pics you'll see the frist laydown of the pattern. It's very basic, and the colors are always bright under the flash. Let me assure you all, unless you are doing the ILM 1701A paint job, the colors should be muted. After some more detailing is completed on the two sides, and the shuttlebay is sealed up, our light coat of white will the panels and make them blend in a little more. After this is done, the neck will be attached over the three lights(2 spots and neck window lights), sanded and finished. After this, the nacelles will be mounted, as their lights are run, and then that detailing will be complete.
At Bryan's request, the light blue panel grid lines were toned down( I got carried away) with a thin mix of white silver that I capilaried along the lines, and then gave the ship a new look that I like alot. It can best be seen in the pic of the finished saucer(it's enough to make me cry). If you're building the 1701A, I believe the panel lines area dark purple, so I assumed a lighter color on the 1701. Check Cloudster's sight, and you be the judge for your model.
A note on the lighting, the original plan was to have a typical tranformer led from outlet to the two boards in the base, and it would be 120vac, which is typical for any home, down to 16vac on a dimmer switch for blinker speed, but as you can see, they are much too bright, and even with heavy coats of grey primerand black interior paint, we still have light bleed all over the place. I freaked to say the least . . . So I'm off to the stores to find a lower conversion rate, or lower dimmer. Whichever I find first. As I said way back in the begining, lighting is new for me, so I'm letting you know what mistakes I'm making so my incompitence comes of as shared knowledge
Also included is a shot I never posted of the arboretum. It really looks great throught the windows, and you can kinda see it in the light pic. I do have to add one more coat of transparent blue over the cloud decal(on top of the clear plastic part) to give it thick blue light.
So I think that's it. big week... Enjoy and see you all next week..
Thanks as always wackychimp. B)
EXCELLENT... You nailed it man. That primary hull looks PERFECT. Lighting look s incredible. Arboretum rocks. Thank you for taking out the grid lines, it looks sooo much more pure that way. Do the same with the secondary hull as much as possible as well.
Really great work, Rhett
Really great work, Rhett
Another week gone, and details, details, details . . .
As I've been building the daylights out of Ghostbuster props, I've still made time for the Big E, and am laying down the final details on the blue grids along the top hull. They are not for the faint of heart. As you look, all the little squares, etc, are correct to the 1701 TMP. Cloudster's site has been a huge help. As I'm building this, you'll remeber that I'm building a test model along with it, and the poor thing has taken a beating(thinking about a Khan paintjob), but here are her nacelles. No decals yet, but there comin'.
Also, I am drawing a reduced light design that is easier and cheaper to build. I think I chopped about seven to ten lights out.
The hard part is coming up; attaching the neck, then laying the thin white coat on the top hull.
So with a lite schedule this week, and alot of leftover energy, i'm looking to getting the hull finished, and attaching the final base details. Keep watching.
As I've been building the daylights out of Ghostbuster props, I've still made time for the Big E, and am laying down the final details on the blue grids along the top hull. They are not for the faint of heart. As you look, all the little squares, etc, are correct to the 1701 TMP. Cloudster's site has been a huge help. As I'm building this, you'll remeber that I'm building a test model along with it, and the poor thing has taken a beating(thinking about a Khan paintjob), but here are her nacelles. No decals yet, but there comin'.
Also, I am drawing a reduced light design that is easier and cheaper to build. I think I chopped about seven to ten lights out.
The hard part is coming up; attaching the neck, then laying the thin white coat on the top hull.
So with a lite schedule this week, and alot of leftover energy, i'm looking to getting the hull finished, and attaching the final base details. Keep watching.
Okay . . .here ya go.
sorry bout the blur.
thanks wackychimp
sorry bout the blur.
thanks wackychimp
As i've said before . . .GENIUS...ha-ha..
Seriously, black vinyl liners, with transparent tamiya blue. When directly lit, it's very bule, when lightly lit, purple. When done, it will have a great gradient to the glow.
and they're not perfect
YET....
Seriously, black vinyl liners, with transparent tamiya blue. When directly lit, it's very bule, when lightly lit, purple. When done, it will have a great gradient to the glow.
and they're not perfect
YET....
