DL-44 live fire build

mptachenko · Jul 9, 2016

Just as many here, I was partly raised by Star Wars. I have many a fond memory of Beta Max and Laser Disc movie nights. There were Kenner figures and ships littering the floor of my room while I tried to move things with the power of the Force. Then when I was about seven years old my dad inherited his father's C96 Broom Handle Mauser that was brought back with him from World War II. Right away I recognized it as Han Solo’s blaster. It was so different than any pistol I had ever seen before. I was ahead of the curve then because my dad let me cut up some plastic for a flash hider and I layed my pellet gun scope on it. I had dreams then of some how converting it to a smuggler’s side arm!

Fast forward some 30 years of life, I discovered forums like this, builders clubs and kits for building a DL-44. Now, after while of dreaming, research and planning, the dream shall be realized! I could not bring myself to harm my grandfather’s Mauser so I first started looking for another Broom Handle. I found the right one recently and I am getting started... The RPF has been a wealth of knowledge. So first and foremost, I thank you all for a great place to start with all the research and developing that has been done recently. This will be so much better than my first attempt 30 years ago!

cjchiu · Jul 9, 2016

Welcome to the RPF. Good luck! Look forward to your progress.

tomm1999 · Jul 9, 2016

Welcome to the RPF! That is beautiful! I don't know if I could convert it into a DL-44. ScottJua has done a bunch of live fires, if you haven't seen his threads you should check them out.

Anxious to see what you come up with!

grenater · Jul 9, 2016

I know what you mean I definitely would think about it but I couldn't never bring myself to chop off the barrel and drill some holes in my grandfather's pistol either. Luckily I don't have that temptation.lol

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mptachenko · Jul 9, 2016

It was some of ScottJua posts that helped me down this road. Thanks.
The gun did not have its original sight and it does not have matching numbers. The barrel had been cut down at some point and a Luger sight was added plus the rifling is rather worn. I don't feel too bad about converting it. Since the rifling was worn I sent off to have it rechambered and relined to 9mm so I can shoot tracers out of it and make it a real blaster! It should be coming back soon and then I will be starting in ernest.

scottjua · Jul 9, 2016

Yeah, I was just about to comment on the weird variant of the barrel. Is it a 1920 rework by any chance? They did some whacky stuff for a lot of those.

I'm currently working on two at the same time... alms done actually doing greeblies and then final fire tests and done.

The biggest challenges I find are making them reliable. The added weight just really sucks.

What kit are you using?

mptachenko · Jul 9, 2016

I will be using a combination of kits from Dark Energy Creations and Todds Costumes. I bought a Dark Energy kit from the last run but Todds just came out with a working replica scope that I am waiting for. Plus I want the steel scope mount from Todds. I don't trust the pewter mount for a live fire. I also found an original Mauser safety lever that that has the solid post rather than the hollow post that will be more screen accurate.

I don't think it is 1920 rework since it does not have the stamp but as you said, they did "whacky" stuff.

matty matt · Jul 10, 2016

Beautiful Mauser! Perfect for a blaster conversion with that weird barrel for sure.

thd9791 · Jul 10, 2016

Todds mount needs some adjustments. It is the strongest I've seen (the vertical posts are also thicker than the pewter mount) however the set screw in the center is only friction held. It does not screw into the dovetail, only butts up against it, though I feel thats an easy fix with some good tools.

tomm1999 · Jul 10, 2016

thd9791 said:
Todds mount needs some adjustments. It is the strongest I've seen (the vertical posts are also thicker than the pewter mount) however the set screw in the center is only friction held. It does not screw into the dovetail, only butts up against it, though I feel thats an easy fix with some good tools.

That was my only complaint with the the Todds mount, which is minimal. I tried making a longer knob but can't get the threading 100% so I put it on the back burner for now until I start putting it together. I figured I'm going to have to buy a nice tap and die set that can handle steel, so I'll do it then.

thd9791 · Jul 10, 2016

tomm1999 said:
That was my only complaint with the the Todds mount, which is minimal. I tried making a longer knob but can't get the threading 100% so I put it on the back burner for now until I start putting it together. I figured I'm going to have to buy a nice tap and die set that can handle steel, so I'll do it then.

Scott and I actually bugged Todd about that on facebook at some point. He hinted at re-designing it a bit *grin* I hope its soon. If you're able to do that though..that would be incredible. I still have trouble tapping and cutting threads that are straight.

mptachenko · Jul 11, 2016

The upper came back today. I installed the correct vintage safety as well. It didn't quite fit as is, so I had to do a some grinding and then some more filing to get it to work smooth.

scottjua · Jul 12, 2016

mptachenko said:
I will be using a combination of kits from Dark Energy Creations and Todds Costumes. I bought a Dark Energy kit from the last run but Todds just came out with a working replica scope that I am waiting for. Plus I want the steel scope mount from Todds. I don't trust the pewter mount for a live fire. I also found an original Mauser safety lever that that has the solid post rather than the hollow post that will be more screen accurate.

I don't think it is 1920 rework since it does not have the stamp but as you said, they did "whacky" stuff.

No the pewter mount is definitely not up to it... even with a dovetail. The recoil BENDS the uprights forward. No bueno. Steel is best for sure.

- - - Updated - - -

thd9791 said:
Todds mount needs some adjustments. It is the strongest I've seen (the vertical posts are also thicker than the pewter mount) however the set screw in the center is only friction held. It does not screw into the dovetail, only butts up against it, though I feel thats an easy fix with some good tools.

It's not bad. I had to machine the thread should away a bit and use a ball end mill to dimple the dovetail, so it could be cranked down hard on it. Then it was fine. Todd's interpretation of the thickness of the uprights is too fat to me... but only from one direction. His latest versions may have addressed that.

- - - Updated - - -

mptachenko said:
The upper came back today. I installed the correct vintage safety as well. It didn't quite fit as is, so I had to do a some grinding and then some more filing to get it to work smooth.
View attachment 643177

That can't be a pre-war lower... that milling is probably one of the sloppiest I've seen. They were only that bad for war time production. Dang.

Yeah those safety levers are ALL slightly different.

Scott4040 · Jul 13, 2016

I don't know why they didn't omit those machining operations during wartime - those recessed areas serve no purpose other than a small weight reduction.

mptachenko · Jul 13, 2016

The serial number of the upper and the trigger assembly match and place pre war. The lower is wartime and explains the sloppy routing as noted. Here is my grandfathers (underneath) compared to the current project (on top).

mptachenko · Jul 16, 2016

I am quite proud of how it is looking so far! I threaded the barrel and customized a thread protector to mount the barrel sleeve on to the upper.

I especially like how the flash suppressor turned out. I dropped it into a bath of solution and it burned on to the surface what looked like a layer of "carbon scoring". I used some steel wool to knock of most of it off and smoothed the metal just a little. I left some of the "carbon scoring" and gently treated the metal several more times while using steel wool in between. Then when the whole thing was pretty dark I buffed it again to show some wear and finished polished it with a strip of thick leather.

The sight will be next. I got tiny magnets to mount the sight to the barrel and they arrived in the mail today. Hopefully I will find some time to get that done this week end. The scope and scope mount is still back ordered. I emailed Todd's and they said they might be getting them out by the end of the month. Argh!!!

mptachenko · Jul 16, 2016

What are some suggestions for making the mystery disc? I was thinking about taping off the area and chemically stripping but I am afraid the stripping agent might get under the masked area. . Also I was thinking about a 1" grinding wheel or polishing wheel on a drill press with the frame secured to the platform on the press.

What have you guys used with success? I would like to not have to reblue or mess with the original finish. I just want the remove the finish where the circle needs to be.

Thanks for any help...

scottjua · Jul 16, 2016

how do you plan to mount the scope mount? Are you planning to take off the bull barrel each time for cleaning?

mptachenko · Jul 16, 2016

I plan to weld the posts onto the frame but also build up around the posts for a a secure contact and then drill out the bushings to cover the weld.

Yes, the bull barrel with have to come off with deep cleanings but since it will not be a regular shooter that will be OK.

tomm1999 · Jul 17, 2016

Awesome work!

DL-44 live fire build

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