1. Member Since
    Jul 2015
    Sep 26, 2015, 4:30 PM - Help with Steampunk Nerf Gun #1

    So I have a Nerf Strongarm and for a Halloween Costume and I want to do something like this to it: but I like the idea of the fluid power source type part that this gun has: But I'm not sure how to go about attaching the test tube to the gun, ideally I'd like to be able to attach it in a way that I could take it off and put it back again, so maybe like a sort of holder for it or something? If anyone can give me tips or advice or anything I'd be grateful for it.
  2. RPF Premium Member sean's Avatar
    Member Since
    Apr 2010
    Jacksonville. Fl
    Sep 26, 2015, 7:07 PM - Re: Help with Steampunk Nerf Gun #2


    Question. do you have the test tube already? you could possibly find some PVC pipe It would fit Into Snug. cut two bands of that and find a plastic strip for the base. to glue the two PVC rings too. just a suggestion off the top of my head...
  3. RogueTrooper is offline RogueTrooper
    Sep 26, 2015, 7:17 PM - Re: Help with Steampunk Nerf Gun #3

    I did a very similar thing on a nerf gun for an additional scope. I got cheap fridge solid magnets from office supplier, cut the plastic off and mounted them on the gun and the scope, worked really well.
  4. Member Since
    Jul 2015
    Sep 27, 2015, 6:53 AM - Re: Help with Steampunk Nerf Gun #4

    That's a good idea thanks, I haven't got the test tube yet but it'll probably be this one: because the screw cap will be more secure than cork and I can spray it copper or gold to give it the impression its a cap on the gun or something, also the fact it's plastic means it won't be as fragile
  5. Member Since
    Jul 2015
    Sep 27, 2015, 8:47 AM - Weathering a steampunk gun #5

    So I'm turning my Nerf strongarm into a steampunk gun and I want to repaint it something like this: what would be a good way to give it the weathered look? A friend of mine suggested Dry brushing but do I do a black dry brush or just a lighter silver/ gold color? Any advice/ tips anyone can give is appreciated.
  6. xl97's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jan 2010
    Sep 27, 2015, 10:24 AM - Re: Weathering a steampunk gun #6

    For that look.. I think a 'black wash' is the way to go..

    dry brushing (IMHO) is good for when you want to hit the edges/high spots with a silver/chrome/grey to show where normal weathering/rubbing occurs (ie: the high spots/corners where a gun is also put into the holster..etc)

    the black wash helps to put grime/dirty/weathering into cracks and low spots..

    (both are commonly used)

    when dry brushing.... LESS is MORE here.. I mean you dont really need ANY paint on the brush when drying brushing! (very very little)

    Heres a Maverick I did a while back with electronics added:
  7. RPF Premium Member
    Member Since
    Feb 2011
    Berkeley, CA
    Sep 27, 2015, 1:51 PM - Re: Weathering a steampunk gun #7

    Experiment if you can -- on scrap, that is. Weathering is an often-discussed subject if you search around; there's a pretty nice video by Adam Savage in which he weathers a box. It's a good one because he explains the basic philosophy.

    The big trick is; weathering is wear and corrosion that happens over time and with use. So the first step is a thinking step. The clearest example of this I can think of at short notice comes from model railroading; dust is thrown up by the passage of the train and more heavily cakes the lower surfaces. Oil leaks from fittings and drips down. Sunlight hits hardest on the surfaces facing the light and they bleach out more. Rust is where bare metal is exposed, metal is exposed where things bang into it, scrapes happen in the tracks of the doors, etc. Volpin talks about this as well, both here and on his blog; I remember specifically him thinking out which parts of the Gravity Gun were in what material, as each material corrodes differently.

    Anyhow. The basic rules:

    1) Multiple passes. No single technique will do the entire job by itself.

    2) Texture. You almost never put down a flat layer; instead you apply in spotty, jagged ways, with some areas getting hit harder than others. Even a coat of base paint will give you a better base to work with if it isn't just one thing; when theater painting I would often paint with a couple variations of the base tone and blend them together over the surface to break it up a little.

    3) Fractal complexity. You don't want all the splotches the same size. Break them up; a few big marks, a larger number of smaller marks, going down into the finest detail the technique will support; each DETAIL has within itself a similar range of size of details.

    4) More-or-less dark to light, very much inside to outside. Exceptions include the black wash.

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