NCR Veteran Ranger V3 (mask & helmet)

HighlanderFX

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
While I'm taking a break from my Enclave APA (printer is down), I thought it would be a good time to continue my version 3 build for the NCR ranger.

Back in January, RPF member JKRIB contacted me to make the "most accurate NCR mask & helmet". My builds are all about getting the most minute detail, and my version 2 build was missing quite a few, so we compiled a list of all the details for the mask and helmet. This includes everything from rivet placement to the smallest scratch. We used official game art, the in game model, and concept art from Massive Black as references for these details.

After a few months of talking about a couple of theories for certain details, like the decibel markings on the front of the amp indicating some sort of volume control, I ended up moving to Florida from Las Vegas, which disrupted my prop making. Having gotten back on track, I plan to continue working and hopefully end up with something pretty cool.

I started my 3D model with the front of the amp. It needed to have the right spacing between segments and I really wanted for it to look like each segment of the mask was nested within the previous piece. I did not want it to look like it was all one piece when I cast it.

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I'm making the helmet by itself. The cam units will attach separately, so if you wanted to wear the helmet by itself, you could. I think this just adds to the realism, not to mention will make painting it easier, as some of the letters on the side are partially hidden under the cam unit.

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Once I made my first cast of the helmet, I tested it for proper fitting and spacing on the mask. Success!

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I have to add a few more details onto the front of the mask, add the hose ports on the right side and add the ear grill on the left side.

While waiting for things to dry/cure, I started working on the riot armor, which I wanted to be all one foam piece so that when you bend your body or sit down, the plates of each segment of armor does not move out of position or create big gaps which was the issue I had when I used foam fatigue floor mats.

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I posted this on my deviantart explaining each step which is what the letters are for. Sorry if that's distracting.
 
Made progress on the cam unit. Fitting it to the mask has been a bit of a balancing act as far as how much bondo to add on both the mask and cam unit and then sand it down until they are flush with each other. I used the flattening method of spreading the bondo onto the side of the cam unit and then laying that same side down onto a bit of aluminium foil that is on a flat surface. This 'squashed' the bondo and had any excess squirt out the sides which was easily cleaned up with my dremel. Thanks to the foil, nothing stuck to anything it should not have.

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One of the details I missed in my version 2 build was the recessed bit just above where the hose connects.
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The ear area has a few details missing still. There's a switch that is located about 7 o'clock from the ear piece, which will turn on and off the fan that is located in the filter. You can also see in this picture the helmet "peg" located in the back which keeps the helmet aligned on the mask and acts as a stopping point so the helmet doesn't sink down too low.

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This is my fairly simple quick release mechanism for the main hose on the right side of the cheek.

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Did a fitting test to make sure everything lines up correctly. I'm waiting for coaxial DC connectors for the miscellaneous tubes/wires to arrive. After I install those and add a few more subtle details (slotting around the nose and high cheek area) the mask will be ready for molding.

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WOOO :p you know I'm excited for this ^^ I was a little sad and worried that you hadn't updated anything on the APA for a little while *phew*.
 
No worries, the APA will continue when this gets finished, which I should have done first since it wasn't really fair to people like you. I got side tracked. Le woops :p
 
No worries, the APA will continue when this gets finished, which I should have done first since it wasn't really fair to people like you. I got side tracked. Le woops :p

No worries :p While I do like this very much I certainly wasn't sad to see it got side tricked by your amazing APA :)
 
One major problem that I was having with this mask was figuring out how to actually wear it. Hugh's pep file has this "bridge" that connects from one side of the mask to the other. While it looks ok, and will never be seen by the public given it is hidden underneath the helmet, I was not crazy about how it actually looked. I really want every aspect of the mask and helmet to read as if it were a found part in the wasteland re-purposed. I took to google images for some inspiration and stumbled upon a picture of a real gas mask from the first world war. It used strapping to hold the mask close to your mouth and face, and that was when the "aha!" moment struck. I'll use the same rigging for my mask. It could totally be something found out in the wasteland and also has a very militaristic look to it (something more partial to the NCR than any other faction).

The trick was going to be making attachment points and position them correctly so that the harness sits comfortably over one's head. This was my result.



I was really worried that the screws in the back would prevent the helmet from sliding down easily but it turns out there is plenty of room.

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I'm pretty crazy about how well it worked out and because the strapping is adjustable, it will be able to fit the largest of melons...

Just a bit more sanding and fiddling with some smaller details, but I aim to have this molded by the weekend.
 
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Made a 2-part mold for the cam unit. This will be roto-casted.

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I also made the mold for the back piece of the mask and did a test casting. (rebound 25 + smoothcast 300)

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I'll be molding the front of the mask over the next few days.
 
Very nice solution for the strap.

Thanks! Glad to have that issue taken care of.

So one of the parts that requires a C02 laser engraver are the lenses. After having researched the Glowforge which Triton posted on a few weeks ago, I decided that it wasn't the right fit for my needs. I went ahead and ordered the hobby laser (45W) from Full Spectrum Laser. Today it arrived and I have spent the evening setting it up.

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I want the lenses to be installed into the mask very simply. Once they are cut from the laser, all you will supposedly have to do is add a little heat to them, press them to the inside of the mask so they fit within the grooves I modeled into the lens rim, and then permanently attach them with hot glue or epoxy. The plan also includes to bore holes using the laser into the outer edges of each lens so that one may install white LEDs (the lens is red acrylic) which will hopefully make the edges of the lens glow! This will probably take a few iterations on getting the right look but after having researched some good edge lighting techniques, I think it should work fine.
 
I am interested in how that laser works out for you. My office needs one, but we don't want the cloud-based system the Glowforge is pushing.
I have done edge lighting into laser-cut red acrylic in a PC mod before. (I used to own a 25W laser). Acrylic will bounce the light from end to end and will illuminate the edges. To light up something on the acrylic you etch.

Images here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/zapwizard/216429430/in/album-72157594198604946/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/zapwizard/216428426/in/album-72157594198604946/
 
I am interested in how that laser works out for you. My office needs one, but we don't want the cloud-based system the Glowforge is pushing.
I have done edge lighting into laser-cut red acrylic in a PC mod before. (I used to own a 25W laser). Acrylic will bounce the light from end to end and will illuminate the edges. To light up something on the acrylic you etch.

Images here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/zapwizard/216429430/in/album-72157594198604946/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/zapwizard/216428426/in/album-72157594198604946/

I have used a Full Spectrum Laser before at the Las Vegas hackerspace. Its where I learned how to do most of my CNC machining/engraving. This particular machine was fairly easy to set up and get running. Only one mirror was slightly misaligned. The retina engrave software is pretty intuitive in my opinion, assuming you have experience with raster/vector graphics. If you have any questions about the machine I will do my best to answer them.

My goal for the edge lighting is to make it so that one cannot tell there are LEDs as the source of the light. They need to be greatly diffused. I will probably pester you with questions about how you did your PC mod when I get to cutting out the lenses, but for now I think I'm going to mold the front of the mask first.
 
Cut out the lenses and fit them into my test casting. They fit very well and were easy to install. All I had to do was heat them up with a heat gun for a few seconds and then push them into place. I held them until they cooled a bit and kept their form; fortunately the curve is so slight that there is no distortion when looking through them.

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