Kylo Ren Voice Changer HELMET (not mask)

event · Feb 4, 2016

opiate said:
good lord that looks good 0_0...so the main pieces are Sintra I'm assuming? I've never worked with Sintra or styrene but I'm gonna have to have a go after seeing this...any tips?

Mostly styrene actually and I caveat that because it's a lot easier to work with imo. You can just score styrene, then snap it by hand and get really clean shapes that need a bit of sanding. Sintra can be a pain to cut since it dulls blades and can't just be scored. It's surface is too soft and gets beat up too easily. Styrene while easily snapped after scored it way more durable.

I guess my advice would be, use styrene over sintra, make patterns first and use good blades. Also, think in layers. Working with thin sheets and stacking them up is easier that using thick sheets... unless you have some serious tools at your disposal. Get some 2 part apoxie sculpt to compliment the styrene (or sintra) as well. You can get some really good detailing and clean up done with the sculpt and make pretty much anything when combining the two.

opiate · Feb 4, 2016

event said:
Mostly styrene actually and I caveat that because it's a lot easier to work with imo. You can just score styrene, then snap it by hand and get really clean shapes that need a bit of sanding. Sintra can be a pain to cut since it dulls blades and can't just be scored. It's surface is too soft and gets beat up too easily. Styrene while easily snapped after scored it way more durable.

I guess my advice would be, use styrene over sintra, make patterns first and use good blades. Also, think in layers. Working with thin sheets and stacking them up is easier that using thick sheets... unless you have some serious tools at your disposal. Get some 2 part apoxie sculpt to compliment the styrene (or sintra) as well. You can get some really good detailing and clean up done with the sculpt and make pretty much anything when combining the two.

Wait....you didn't sculpt the entire web-ish area out of putty did you?? Or did you just do the non-chrome, in-betweeny sections of the upper brow? Kinda hard to tell. Thanks a lot for the advice man!

event · Feb 4, 2016

opiate said:
Wait....you didn't sculpt the entire web-ish area out of putty did you?? Or did you just do the non-chrome, in-betweeny sections of the upper brow? Kinda hard to tell. Thanks a lot for the advice man!

I mention in a later post that this is a cut twice, measure once build and part of that if because I cut WAY too much away from the chrome accent, so aside from the basic shape, most of it was sculpted in those pics, save for the rear/base.

Currently the entire piece is being redone because I didn't like the way it looked at the time the pics were taken. I'm considering redoing it all in two pieces so I can separate the black and chrome details for easier painting and better contrast separation of finishes.

Heyjude7 · Feb 7, 2016

What is the consensus on this helmet and bondo? Is it a good smoother and filler? Yay or nay?

Radioman · Feb 14, 2016

..

kristenhenry70 said:
well the six inches is the fold of the fabric.. there is no seam on that part. the seam starts after that and goes down the back. Yes, it kind of looks like a dart (as you called it, an arrow) but once you've sewn it and you turn the hood right side out and press it open you're not going to notice but a small seam there. All hoods are going to have some sort of seam down the back....it's just how they are made. This design minimises it to one seam straight down the back, and by putting the fold at the top left at least you have no seam showing at the front of your hood.

Kristen, do you have a recommendation for fabric? Or links to someplace like fabric.com? I've seen a half dozen threads on this costume and don't see a consensus on fabric. A black cotton duck weave seems to be the front runner.

Thanks and love the pattern.

Mark

LRZ · Feb 18, 2016

Help!

So I got the helmet, voice changer is atrocious, as expected.
Carefully disassembled the bucket and experimented with different configurations of foam padding and isolation around mic and speaker.
Found nothing that improved anything and re assembled it.

And well... now it is MUCH WORSE than before!
If it rests on a table and I turn it on, the slightest touch makes it go in a feedback loop and a slightly harder touch turns it into a growling mess of a lawn mover which is about to blow up at any moment.
That is quite menacing and as such not that unfitting to the character of Kylo Ren but not exactly what I was aiming for.
I think sometimes there is a slight aliasing audible that wasn't there before, but that could be just a side effect of the mysterious amplification which boosts it audible now.

Normally I can handle a screwdriver, all pieces seem to be in place and I think of myself as not being that stupid.
Where could I have failed? Any ideas? :confused

Vandark · Feb 18, 2016

the only thing that works for me is putting tape over the speaker...

jtmtmtl · Mar 7, 2016

event said:
I mention in a later post that this is a cut twice, measure once build and part of that if because I cut WAY too much away from the chrome accent, so aside from the basic shape, most of it was sculpted in those pics, save for the rear/base.

Currently the entire piece is being redone because I didn't like the way it looked at the time the pics were taken. I'm considering redoing it all in two pieces so I can separate the black and chrome details for easier painting and better contrast separation of finishes.

Any chance you could make templates? Im in the "I cut far too much" club and would like to get mine looking like yours does now.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

Kroenen77 · Mar 7, 2016

The voicechanger is *******....I built all the stuff out of the helmet.No tip really works perfect.
I think only a complete and better voicechanger would work.:angry:thumbsdown

ForceSensitvAL · Jun 10, 2016

Managed to grab one of these at a video game store on my way home from work tonight. I gambled, and they had some in stock. I'd like to dive right in to filling the seams and painting it, but I don't have anything on hand. If I had time I'd probably order Apoxie Sculpt, but I'd like to dedicate some time to this tomorrow, so I'd like to try something I can get easily. I'm eyeballing some epoxy putty at Lowes (Oatey Fix-It), regular automotive bondo seems to pop up in a lot of youtube videos, and Hobby Lobby near me may carry Milliput. Can anyone vouch for any of these for filling this helmet's seams and gaps?

Update: While out today, I found two things. Milliput gray and Bondo glazing putty (says it's not for big holes, but these seams are quite small). I can use something like Milliput for a lot of other things, so I got it. I'll report back with how well it works.

rosskow · Jun 12, 2016

The best method I'd suggest would be the plastic welding route with a soldering iron, it's pulls the two parts together making them one piece essentially, instead of putting a secondary material (epoxy/bondo) into the seam to try hold it together.
I used the plastic welding method, but I will be doing some reinforcing with some fibre glass on the internal still.

I am a novice though, and what I have said is only going from my experiences.

ForceSensitvAL said:
Managed to grab one of these at a video game store on my way home from work tonight. I gambled, and they had some in stock. I'd like to dive right in to filling the seams and painting it, but I don't have anything on hand. If I had time I'd probably order Apoxie Sculpt, but I'd like to dedicate some time to this tomorrow, so I'd like to try something I can get easily. I'm eyeballing some epoxy putty at Lowes (Oatey Fix-It), regular automotive bondo seems to pop up in a lot of youtube videos, and Hobby Lobby near me may carry Milliput. Can anyone vouch for any of these for filling this helmet's seams and gaps?

Update: While out today, I found two things. Milliput gray and Bondo glazing putty (says it's not for big holes, but these seams are quite small). I can use something like Milliput for a lot of other things, so I got it. I'll report back with how well it works.

event · Jun 13, 2016

I superglued (loctite) and then plastic welded mine. I've been manhandling it and even hit it with an orbital sander and have not had a single seam split.

TheHostileZone · Jul 25, 2016

I know this osunds silly, But i am struggling to create the back bezel for the rear of the helmet......

Heres what it looks like now:

Yes i know it looks messy. Do any of you have a "template" or precut i can use to make it?

Kylo Ren Voice Changer HELMET (not mask)

event

Active Member

opiate

New Member

event

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Heyjude7

Well-Known Member

Radioman

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LRZ

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Vandark

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jtmtmtl

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Kroenen77

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ForceSensitvAL

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rosskow

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event

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TheHostileZone

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