Okay, something awesome. The formlabs Fuse 1has been announced.
It isn't the first workshop SLS 3D printer, but it looks like it will be the best. formlabs has done an awesome job on their SLA printers, and it looks like they worked very hard on the fuse 1. Granted it won't be out until late this year/early next.
Now, even more awesome: I will have access to one through work. I can't wait.
I haven't posted a lot on these forums, but I just had to for this project.
I love your attention to detail and not wanting to sway from making a game accurate prop.
Long time ago I had my own PipBoy 3000 project which I put on hold because I couldn't find a suitable screen.
It's awesome that you did.
I hope you release the plans in some form when this thing is done.
Just so you know, here's another electronics engineer / programmer with access to a 3D printer waiting for plans to get this thing built myself.
Keep up the good work!
I love your attention to detail and not wanting to sway from making a game accurate prop.
Long time ago I had my own PipBoy 3000 project which I put on hold because I couldn't find a suitable screen.
It's awesome that you did.
I hope you release the plans in some form when this thing is done.
Just so you know, here's another electronics engineer / programmer with access to a 3D printer waiting for plans to get this thing built myself.
Keep up the good work!
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@Einherj, Thanks for the compliments. I may end up needing some help with the programming and electronics at some point in the future. I may end up just releasing the plans rather than a kit. This is because not everyone wants the full function set, some people just want a more accurate prop. And the fact that getting the kit produced will cost multiple times as much as building a few units. I do plan on at least building as many functional units as I have displays.
Small update for everyone:
Last night I took a break from packing up house and worked on the project a bit. I opened the CAD files and fixed a few things which were bothering me. I optimized a few more of the SLS 3D printed parts, and added a rib which would prevent the arm bands from bending into the enclosure.
While packing I came across our old Wii Fit stuff, and in there was an EA Sports heart-rate monitor. They read the heart rate by putting the sensor on a flexible PCB that was placed on the underside of the wrist. I think this would work better than the current smart-watch method of reading the top side of the wrist. They also had a nice wide band which may be useful. But for this project I don't really want to rip stuff apart, I want to engineer it from scratch. But I may just do a little reverse engineering on it later.
Life update:
I am still moving house. It feels like I am painfully close to getting the house ready to sell, but more stuff creeps up weekly.
Also, I live in Austin, TX and the house market here is currently insane. And the particular area which I want to move to is effectively on of the hardest areas to buy a home, mostly due to the relatively sparse population. So I will be moving into an apartment for a while until I find the perfect home. While there I plan on getting all the electronics planned out. But no physical builds will happen for a while.
Small update for everyone:
Last night I took a break from packing up house and worked on the project a bit. I opened the CAD files and fixed a few things which were bothering me. I optimized a few more of the SLS 3D printed parts, and added a rib which would prevent the arm bands from bending into the enclosure.
While packing I came across our old Wii Fit stuff, and in there was an EA Sports heart-rate monitor. They read the heart rate by putting the sensor on a flexible PCB that was placed on the underside of the wrist. I think this would work better than the current smart-watch method of reading the top side of the wrist. They also had a nice wide band which may be useful. But for this project I don't really want to rip stuff apart, I want to engineer it from scratch. But I may just do a little reverse engineering on it later.
Life update:
I am still moving house. It feels like I am painfully close to getting the house ready to sell, but more stuff creeps up weekly.
Also, I live in Austin, TX and the house market here is currently insane. And the particular area which I want to move to is effectively on of the hardest areas to buy a home, mostly due to the relatively sparse population. So I will be moving into an apartment for a while until I find the perfect home. While there I plan on getting all the electronics planned out. But no physical builds will happen for a while.
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Engelnicht
Well-Known Member
I live in Austin too, and I am also moving. I feel your pain! Even the rental market is crazy here. Good luck!
Okay folks,
I will (finally) be in a new home by the end of the month. I found a home that fits my needs and has a huge 550 sq/ft garage which will become my workshop.
However, even though this home is great and has lots of stuff updated, there was a lot of items the inspector found which I will need to address first. I am a do-it-yourself type of person, and so will be tackling a whole host of major and minor projects myself.
This means the Pip-Boy may get shelved for even longer. And ya, I know that I haven't made any real progress in a year. Perhaps once we get our SLS 3D printer at work it will kick things into high gear. I may still find some time in the middle of other projects to work on it. I am also thinking about releasing a prop-version which would have the mechanical components, but no real electronics. That would be something that could be ordered on Shapeways, it would still require a lot of hardware from McMaster, and a few laser cut parts, but it could be made into something that looks great on a shelf.
If you are interested in my style of projects/guides, I do plan on making a video blog of my home projects. I don't plan on becoming a YouTuber. But I do find that publishing a log helps me keep going on a project.
I will (finally) be in a new home by the end of the month. I found a home that fits my needs and has a huge 550 sq/ft garage which will become my workshop.
However, even though this home is great and has lots of stuff updated, there was a lot of items the inspector found which I will need to address first. I am a do-it-yourself type of person, and so will be tackling a whole host of major and minor projects myself.
This means the Pip-Boy may get shelved for even longer. And ya, I know that I haven't made any real progress in a year. Perhaps once we get our SLS 3D printer at work it will kick things into high gear. I may still find some time in the middle of other projects to work on it. I am also thinking about releasing a prop-version which would have the mechanical components, but no real electronics. That would be something that could be ordered on Shapeways, it would still require a lot of hardware from McMaster, and a few laser cut parts, but it could be made into something that looks great on a shelf.
If you are interested in my style of projects/guides, I do plan on making a video blog of my home projects. I don't plan on becoming a YouTuber. But I do find that publishing a log helps me keep going on a project.
Engelnicht
Well-Known Member
I'm interested. I'd even be willing to put in the sweat equity and help you out. I live down south of McKinney Falls State Park. Hit me up if you want a hand.
Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
Like the man said, "You do you". I'm the last person in the world to get tetchy when someone tries to juggle real life with the actual important stuff. I'm focusing on other more pressing things than my Fallout costuming, so I am still in no rush. About the only thing I feel the need to poke you about is the label for the Automatron game holodisk. *heh* Once we're into Q1 2018, I'm planning to begin accumulating materials for the next batch of costumes, including Fallout stuff, but I'm not expecting to actually begin focusing on those costumes until maybe this time next year.
So you're good. Take as long as you need. I'll be here. Oh! And I'm getting that joystick I linked to several pages back. I'll make it work, by hook or by crook.
--Jonah
I'm focusing on other more pressing things than my Fallout costuming, so I am still in no rush. About the only thing I feel the need to poke you about is the label for the Automatron game holodisk. *heh* Once we're into Q1 2018, I'm planning to begin accumulating materials for the next batch of costumes, including Fallout stuff, but I'm not expecting to actually begin focusing on those costumes until maybe this time next year.So you're good. Take as long as you need. I'll be here.
Oh! And I'm getting that joystick I linked to several pages back. I'll make it work, by hook or by crook.--Jonah
Okay folks, sorry for the long time without an update.
--------------------
Howdy folks,
Well, after much thought, I have decided to do what many have asked for: I will be releasing the full CAD files for the Functional Pip-Boy 3000 MK4.
I am releasing these files as a unfinished work. I still intend on going back and making my "master" version someday. But currently I have a new home with its own projects to work on.
If you want to check out my home projects, I will be publishing that project at: www.halfwayupthehill.com. (There isn't much up at the moment yet)
I am releasing these files for the sake keeping a huge amount of work from going to waste.
I put a ton of work into this design. I have used my years of experience with product design to create what I feel is the most accurate, and faithful version of the Pip-Boy 3000 Mk IV. The design uses real metal hardware, and mixed materials to achieve a look as good as if RobCo built it themselves.
To that end, this design is expensive. There is no way around that without losing out on quality. This is an unfinished design. Do not expect to just order all the parts, and put it together like a model airplane. Lots of work is still needed to even build just one of these.
It is up to the community to continue the work.
--------------------
The terms to receive a guilt free access to these CAD files is as follows:
1) Purchase a Holotape, or any other item from my Shapeways store. (Pip-Boy thread linked per RPF fules)
2) E-mail zapwizard+holotape@gmail.com with your Shapeways order number. Or message me on Shapeways or the RPF. If sending a private message, included your google enabled e-mail address.
3) Once I confirm your order number, you will receive access to the Google Drive folder containing these files. (Sent to the e-mail you provided)
If you aquired these files using some other means and not directly from Joshua Driggs (ZapWizard) please go ahead and purchase a prop. You get guilt free access to these CAD files, as well as an awesome prop designed by myself.
Also, anyone who purchases a item and sends me the order number, will also receive e-mail support for this project.
--------------------
Howdy folks,
Well, after much thought, I have decided to do what many have asked for: I will be releasing the full CAD files for the Functional Pip-Boy 3000 MK4.
I am releasing these files as a unfinished work. I still intend on going back and making my "master" version someday. But currently I have a new home with its own projects to work on.
If you want to check out my home projects, I will be publishing that project at: www.halfwayupthehill.com. (There isn't much up at the moment yet)
I am releasing these files for the sake keeping a huge amount of work from going to waste.
I put a ton of work into this design. I have used my years of experience with product design to create what I feel is the most accurate, and faithful version of the Pip-Boy 3000 Mk IV. The design uses real metal hardware, and mixed materials to achieve a look as good as if RobCo built it themselves.
To that end, this design is expensive. There is no way around that without losing out on quality. This is an unfinished design. Do not expect to just order all the parts, and put it together like a model airplane. Lots of work is still needed to even build just one of these.
It is up to the community to continue the work.
--------------------
The terms to receive a guilt free access to these CAD files is as follows:
1) Purchase a Holotape, or any other item from my Shapeways store. (Pip-Boy thread linked per RPF fules)
2) E-mail zapwizard+holotape@gmail.com with your Shapeways order number. Or message me on Shapeways or the RPF. If sending a private message, included your google enabled e-mail address.
3) Once I confirm your order number, you will receive access to the Google Drive folder containing these files. (Sent to the e-mail you provided)
If you aquired these files using some other means and not directly from Joshua Driggs (ZapWizard) please go ahead and purchase a prop. You get guilt free access to these CAD files, as well as an awesome prop designed by myself.
Also, anyone who purchases a item and sends me the order number, will also receive e-mail support for this project.
I have been producing a lot of items on Shapeways lately. I like to order different parts in various materials just to see how it turns out.
Well on a lark I ordered a 1/6th scale Pip-Boy. Just to see if the "Extreme Detail" resin could resolve all the details. The end result is amazing, it even managed to make the wire on the back without breaking.
This is a solid model, but has a seperate tiny base for it to sit on. These are available on my Shapeways store if you want one. Click the images for the link.
I tried to see what it would take to make a "Static Prop" version of the Pip-Boy, that is a 3D print in SLS that is full size, and could be painted, but is otherwise non-functional. The cost for that is $505!, a half-size print however is a more reasonable $90.
------------
For anyone wondering about the state of this project, nothing has changed from the post above. So far about a dozen people have access to the CAD files now, although I don't think anyone is really taking the project head on.
Well on a lark I ordered a 1/6th scale Pip-Boy. Just to see if the "Extreme Detail" resin could resolve all the details. The end result is amazing, it even managed to make the wire on the back without breaking.
This is a solid model, but has a seperate tiny base for it to sit on. These are available on my Shapeways store if you want one. Click the images for the link.
I tried to see what it would take to make a "Static Prop" version of the Pip-Boy, that is a 3D print in SLS that is full size, and could be painted, but is otherwise non-functional. The cost for that is $505!, a half-size print however is a more reasonable $90.
------------
For anyone wondering about the state of this project, nothing has changed from the post above. So far about a dozen people have access to the CAD files now, although I don't think anyone is really taking the project head on.
dominateeye
New Member
Hey all,
This is the first thread I've read on RPF, and the first time I've been aware of the site, as I've never tried DIY work (and am honestly afraid I'd mess something up and have to pay for it), I'm bad at and get annoyed by programming, and don't really know what resources I have around me. But this is an excellent project, incredibly detailed, and just about the coolest thing I've seen in my life. I've just finished making an account after reading all 18 pages of this thread, and I just felt like I had to say something. I stumbled across this project looking for a guide on how to convert the phone case Pip-Boy into a fully functioning one, or, failing that, at least carving a nice-looking charger hole into the phone chamber and foam so that I can actually use the thing when I pick it up (I leave an old iPhone 5 with the app installed in there when it's on its stand, as I like the completeness of an actual screen in the case). By the way, if anyone can recommend a good build for either of those outcomes (one they've successfully followed on a budget), and would like to let me know about it, feel free to PM me a link so I can look over it.
I would love to see this project finished, Zap, and especially so to see a kit available and someone offering assembly services (because, again, I'm afraid to touch a soldering iron). I do get the feeling it would be expensive, though, and I'm unemployed at the moment (getting a Communications - Radio/TV Broadcasting certificate at my local community college) meaning I wouldn't be able to afford it anyway, so I'm absolutely not trying to rush you! Whenever you feel is right to get back in and whenever you manage to complete it all is good with me.
The only way I can see myself getting this and being at least quasi-comfortable with the investment though is if I can use it in game (and with that said, if I can comfortably use it while playing with a keyboard and mouse. The phone case is pretty awful about that). I'm not the convention (and ESPECIALLY not the cosplay) type, so I probably wouldn't wear it outside of my own house. Most of the time though it'd probably be on my mantle or a shelf, plugged in and turned on, pretty much a very cool conversation piece.
Speaking of plugged in, would that USB connector at the back be able to charge its battery? I know there's a planned power jack in the cuff, but I just prefer the idea of USB charging for some reason.
Good luck with Life Stuff, Zap, and anyone else who needs it!
This is the first thread I've read on RPF, and the first time I've been aware of the site, as I've never tried DIY work (and am honestly afraid I'd mess something up and have to pay for it), I'm bad at and get annoyed by programming, and don't really know what resources I have around me. But this is an excellent project, incredibly detailed, and just about the coolest thing I've seen in my life. I've just finished making an account after reading all 18 pages of this thread, and I just felt like I had to say something. I stumbled across this project looking for a guide on how to convert the phone case Pip-Boy into a fully functioning one, or, failing that, at least carving a nice-looking charger hole into the phone chamber and foam so that I can actually use the thing when I pick it up (I leave an old iPhone 5 with the app installed in there when it's on its stand, as I like the completeness of an actual screen in the case). By the way, if anyone can recommend a good build for either of those outcomes (one they've successfully followed on a budget), and would like to let me know about it, feel free to PM me a link so I can look over it.
I would love to see this project finished, Zap, and especially so to see a kit available and someone offering assembly services (because, again, I'm afraid to touch a soldering iron). I do get the feeling it would be expensive, though, and I'm unemployed at the moment (getting a Communications - Radio/TV Broadcasting certificate at my local community college) meaning I wouldn't be able to afford it anyway, so I'm absolutely not trying to rush you! Whenever you feel is right to get back in and whenever you manage to complete it all is good with me.
The only way I can see myself getting this and being at least quasi-comfortable with the investment though is if I can use it in game (and with that said, if I can comfortably use it while playing with a keyboard and mouse. The phone case is pretty awful about that). I'm not the convention (and ESPECIALLY not the cosplay) type, so I probably wouldn't wear it outside of my own house. Most of the time though it'd probably be on my mantle or a shelf, plugged in and turned on, pretty much a very cool conversation piece.
Speaking of plugged in, would that USB connector at the back be able to charge its battery? I know there's a planned power jack in the cuff, but I just prefer the idea of USB charging for some reason.
Good luck with Life Stuff, Zap, and anyone else who needs it!
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dominateeye, Thanks for the kind words.
Here is a build where someone hacked in a right angle charger cable for their phone.
The +5V on the USB connector could be wired to charger the battery. But again, I don't expect the battery to last very long anyways.
Small life update: I am working hard on my new house. A month ago I installed a robotic lawn mower. He's not a social as codsworth, but damn it "M-O" does the job! My backyard is 1/3rd an acre of grass, and it takes forever to mow with a regular mower. With M-O doing the work in the backyard I can focus on the rest of my yard, at least until the Texas heat forces me back inside.
I know I said I was going to make videos on the house, but apparently I am just not into video editing as much as I thought. It simply takes too much time. I may still publish one here and there though. I have footage for at least six videos now.
Here is a build where someone hacked in a right angle charger cable for their phone.
The +5V on the USB connector could be wired to charger the battery. But again, I don't expect the battery to last very long anyways.
Small life update: I am working hard on my new house. A month ago I installed a robotic lawn mower. He's not a social as codsworth, but damn it "M-O" does the job! My backyard is 1/3rd an acre of grass, and it takes forever to mow with a regular mower. With M-O doing the work in the backyard I can focus on the rest of my yard, at least until the Texas heat forces me back inside.
I know I said I was going to make videos on the house, but apparently I am just not into video editing as much as I thought. It simply takes too much time. I may still publish one here and there though. I have footage for at least six videos now.
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dominateeye
New Member
In light of Fallout76 being announced and a new Pip-Boy along with it, I am releasing my full set of CAD files to the public. (With CC licence linked in the files applied)
Click here to see the Pip-Boy 3000 Mk IV CAD files.
Click here to see the Pip-Boy 3000 Mk IV CAD files.
Voltaire Surge
Member
Hey Zap. Bethesda put a model kit for the fallout 76 pipboy up on their page. Think you might take a look and see if you would be able to make it function? Just a thought. Ive loved your work on the fallout 4 version.
Voltaire Surge: Yep, someone e-mailed me this (actually as a leak a few days ago). I did order one, for reference.
See this thread for my thoughts on it.
Even though I am somewhat disappointed in Fallout 76's planned gameplay; All this hype got me back to work on my project again! I just haven't had time to document all the things I am doing.
Recent Changes:
• I am no longer offering it as a kit, I am building this for myself. It it just too hard to select all the components to keep it as a kit.
• It will be open sourced at the end of the build. (Similar to the unfinished release)
• I have managed to figure out how to make the Holotape cassette mechanism soft-open like it does in-game.
• Adding more small PCBs back instead of soldering wires directly to components. (Makes the design more prototype friendly design)
• New game-accurate button caps, instead of the smaller stock caps
• Button trim surrounds now a separate 3D printed part for easier painting.
• The radio dial now has a 1:9 gear reduction instead of 1:3.
• The selection knob detent is now hidden in the back cover and runs off a separate gear, which means the selection knob plastic won't wear against the detent ball.
• Re-designed the holotape to use a tiny magnet to trigger the on function instead of a mechanical switch. With a few bonus effects of the magnet.
Things I am planning:
• Make the soft-open mechanism work on-way (open only)
• Add a better battery holder, perhaps even using a camera battery to allow for easy replacement.
• Add a spot for the Pocket Geiger sensor
• Front cover for the holotape holder (Like in game)
Challenges I am still thinking through:
• Figuring out a good way to have a secure arm attachment. One that doesn't allow the Pip-Boy to spin or fall on your arm.
• How to best do the cloth portions of the arm band. (Need to find the cloth, batting, and backer)
• Make the cable retraction mechanism work buttery smooth. Right now its a bit buggy.
See this thread for my thoughts on it.
Even though I am somewhat disappointed in Fallout 76's planned gameplay; All this hype got me back to work on my project again! I just haven't had time to document all the things I am doing.
Recent Changes:
• I am no longer offering it as a kit, I am building this for myself. It it just too hard to select all the components to keep it as a kit.
• It will be open sourced at the end of the build. (Similar to the unfinished release)
• I have managed to figure out how to make the Holotape cassette mechanism soft-open like it does in-game.
• Adding more small PCBs back instead of soldering wires directly to components. (Makes the design more prototype friendly design)
• New game-accurate button caps, instead of the smaller stock caps
• Button trim surrounds now a separate 3D printed part for easier painting.
• The radio dial now has a 1:9 gear reduction instead of 1:3.
• The selection knob detent is now hidden in the back cover and runs off a separate gear, which means the selection knob plastic won't wear against the detent ball.
• Re-designed the holotape to use a tiny magnet to trigger the on function instead of a mechanical switch. With a few bonus effects of the magnet.
Things I am planning:
• Make the soft-open mechanism work on-way (open only)
• Add a better battery holder, perhaps even using a camera battery to allow for easy replacement.
• Add a spot for the Pocket Geiger sensor
• Front cover for the holotape holder (Like in game)
Challenges I am still thinking through:
• Figuring out a good way to have a secure arm attachment. One that doesn't allow the Pip-Boy to spin or fall on your arm.
• How to best do the cloth portions of the arm band. (Need to find the cloth, batting, and backer)
• Make the cable retraction mechanism work buttery smooth. Right now its a bit buggy.
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Voltaire Surge
Member
zapwizard sounds like you've got alot of sweet work to show. For i'm excited for both the kit and ths game. I enjoyed 4 dispite its lack of rpg aspects but if the bugs were erraticated amd the npc's didnt move about or allow for the camera to be interrupted fallout 4 would have been a fine entry as a "lets try this amd see what come". That aside for what you mean, not as a kit but that means u will list all the pieces and parts needed and all that? What about the pcb boards? Also kinda related, what kind of switch would i need if i were to make a button that i can press and activate a light but it doesnt lock down and then press another button to turn off the light and turn on a second one, and would that just require program scripting? I'm kinda asking in referemce to making the pipboy 3000 front 3 buttons. The power button on that is a single press that locks jist like the one for 4. Apologies for the big mess of a post. Does your reinvigoration amd preorder for reference mean you may take on the pip-boy 2000 mk vi down the line? And back to your progress that all sounds good but if its cool it would be awesome to see what you mean XD
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Voltaire Surge:
Once I have my own built (whenever that occurs), I will release all the CAD files, and the Bill of Materials (BOM) as best I can. This design is so detailed that it can't be just exported and 3D printed with substitute parts.
The CAD files will include the PCB designs.
I am finding it very hard to figure out exactly what your asking. I think your asking about a three-way switch, but with one switch as a momentary switch. That would require a controller, a three-way switch however can be done with just switches. Google "Three way switch" for a diagram.
Regarding the buttons on the Pip-Boy 3000, it doesn't have a power button. Just "Stats, Items, Data"
I do want to take up on the Pip-Boy 2000 Mk VI, but only after the game is released. I may even do it before I finish this one, just because it is so much simpler in design.
Once I have my own built (whenever that occurs), I will release all the CAD files, and the Bill of Materials (BOM) as best I can. This design is so detailed that it can't be just exported and 3D printed with substitute parts.
The CAD files will include the PCB designs.
I am finding it very hard to figure out exactly what your asking. I think your asking about a three-way switch, but with one switch as a momentary switch. That would require a controller, a three-way switch however can be done with just switches. Google "Three way switch" for a diagram.
Regarding the buttons on the Pip-Boy 3000, it doesn't have a power button. Just "Stats, Items, Data"
I do want to take up on the Pip-Boy 2000 Mk VI, but only after the game is released. I may even do it before I finish this one, just because it is so much simpler in design.
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Voltaire Surge
Member
The pipboy 3000a does have a power button. Its on the front/side.
https://d1u5p3l4wpay3k.cloudfront.net/fallout_gamepedia/7/73/Pip-Boy_3000.png
Look at the right corner on the bottom kfrom this angle) edge.
Also for the scroll wheel for going up amd down it seems like for the fo4 on the bluetooth deluxe edition they have u press the selection button whem you select a submenu from the horizontal bar and then with the scroll wheel it lets you scroll virtically.
What i mean for the button i guess the guy o saw do a pipboy 3000 used "plungerc dpdt" buttons? Kinda like the selection button u are usong. And for the fallout 4 power button u have. U press it and lights up, but instead of locking a second button can be pressed amd them light up while turnong the prior button off. The stats, imventory, amd data buttons.
https://d1u5p3l4wpay3k.cloudfront.net/fallout_gamepedia/7/73/Pip-Boy_3000.png
Look at the right corner on the bottom kfrom this angle) edge.
Also for the scroll wheel for going up amd down it seems like for the fo4 on the bluetooth deluxe edition they have u press the selection button whem you select a submenu from the horizontal bar and then with the scroll wheel it lets you scroll virtically.
What i mean for the button i guess the guy o saw do a pipboy 3000 used "plungerc dpdt" buttons? Kinda like the selection button u are usong. And for the fallout 4 power button u have. U press it and lights up, but instead of locking a second button can be pressed amd them light up while turnong the prior button off. The stats, imventory, amd data buttons.
I see it now. For the power button, a toggle push button is best. Between the battery power and the rest of the circuits. The select button I am using in the 3000 Mk IV is actually a momentary push button. I just selected one with a long-throw so that the button has the same feel as in-game. It is closer to the amount of movement as a keyboard switch, but with a heavier force required. Most momentary push buttons are small "click" types, you would find of of these on your monitor for example.
In my design everything will be connected and controlled by the micro-controller. So I am using all momentary switches, and the software handles how the rest of the system reacts to that button press. I may add a physical master power switch hidden somewhere inside the arm rest that would be used to kill all power.
In my design everything will be connected and controlled by the micro-controller. So I am using all momentary switches, and the software handles how the rest of the system reacts to that button press. I may add a physical master power switch hidden somewhere inside the arm rest that would be used to kill all power.
