CCW1984
New Member
Hello everyone! I decided it might be a good idea to document my first build, and everything I have gone through to research and implement it, in the hope that this will be of use to other new builders. I will try to give credit to everyone and everywhere I found my information, but I'm not perfect so if you see something that needs crediting, or just want to add your opinions feel free to let me know! I'll also be copying this thread over at TheRPF.com, so let me know if anyone knows a good way to possibly link the two.
So first off some backstory, because reasons! (Bonus points if you get the reference) Ever since I saw Destiny and played the Alpha and Betas for Destiny and then saw the Manifold Seeker set for Destiny I knew I wanted to make a set of armor based on My Little Pony, I mean Destiny.
Ok, actual information time. I would HIGHLY recommend reading through a lot of the threads on this forum and doing some general research into what and how you want to make what you want to make. I probably spent two or three weeks of just researching the different methods and materials used. Also keep in mind your price point, because things can add up quick. Now obviously if you're here you've probably decided to go with Pepakura like I have (for now, seriously looking into a 3D printer, but I'll get into that later). Obviously we need to start with some paper, so after doing some research into cardstock I found that there are various types of card/index/bond/cover stock. The best way to measure them is in grams per sq meter, otherwise you may see 50lb cardstock and 50lb indexstock and think they're the same thing.
I chose this:
Neenah Exact Index, 110 lb, 199 gsm, 8.5 x 11 Inches, 250 Sheets - the weight I wanted and seemed to be most recommended, so far working great.
Other materials I needed:
Premiere 9411 Disposable Scalpels with #11 - I don't remember who recommended these (I think on one of the tutorial threads) but they are perfect! Super sharp and cheaper than xacto knives. Blade #11 is the most like an xacto blade with a fine tip.
Professional Self-Healing Cutting Mat Size: 18" W x 24" D - Something to protect the furniture.
Aleene's Quick Dry Tacky Glue 8oz - I know there's a lot of debate on this, but I decided against hot glue because hot things in small spaces and I do not work well together, and I really hate those stringy bits. This stuff gets tacky in a few seconds and it's got great hold, but you still have a few moments to position everything correctly. But once it's there it's there for good, you can see the results on a piece I messed up below.
A ruler - I had a metal engineers triangular ruler around and it works well, I can hold down firmly on the top while cutting and scoring.
Tweezers - good for folding small parts and holding them in place while gluing. Also using a collar stay I had lying around to spread the glue, just put a drop on the tab, spread it out, and stick.
Scoring - I also had this thing (with the red handle) lying around from my computer repair days, I picked it up at Radio Shack. I've been using the pointy end to score along the fold lines. Gives me nice crisp folds. The other end is more of a blade, and is great for pressing down on tabs when gluing and pushing into creases. You could also pick up one of these bone folders to do the same thing, I almost did, but wanted to try what I had on hand first. EK tools Bone Folder
Ive been using it by dragging it upside down along the fold, not point side down. I think that would rip it too much, instead of just compressing the fold line.
This:
Not This:
That's most everything you need to get started with the printing/cutting/folding/gluing parts.
I also picked up some things for the next part, hardening. I plan on using epoxy resin, but I'll get into that more when I get to it.
3M Tekk Paint Project Respirator, Medium - So I couldn't find much of ANYTHING on sizing respirators so I went with medium. The 3M Tekk came with Organic Vapor cartridges, perfect.
Blue Nitrile Gloves - Cheap, disposable, protective.
Uvex S3970D Stealth OTG Safety Goggles - Safety first, and these fit over my glasses (OTG)
So for now I've set up a workstation on an IKEA desk I have:
Gamma radiation! Does this mean I become the Hulk if I nick myself?
This is the piece I messed up I mentioned earlier. I glued the tabs over the matching numbers instead of under. Helps to go over the instructions again, especially your first time! You can see the paper was ripping before the glue would give out.
So that's pretty much it so far, once I get more pieces cut out and more pictures taken I'll add more!
For anyone still interested I mentioned I was looking into 3D printers, currently I am deciding between the Ultimaker 2 or TAZ 4, if I decide to get one. Not only would it make it super easy to print props, but there's plenty of useful stuff to print too, I hope. So if anyone has any experience and/or recommendations let me know!
Inspiration!:
http://www.therpf.com/f24/3d-printed...ia-suit-186414
http://www.reddit.com/r/DestinyTheGa...and_raise_you/
http://www.3ders.org/articles/201410...ion-rifle.html
Update:
So like I said, scaling. Very important! You don't want to spend hours upon hours printing, cutting, and gluing something together just to find out it doesn't fit! There are a few threads on the site about how to scale your Pepakura armor to fit, so go check them out!
Also check out this tutorial by HaloGoddess!
"Once you have this measurement, it's good to add AT LEAST 1 extra inch to leave room for padding. Also because when you fiberglass the inside, this also takes up space. If you plan on installing mini fans for better air circulation inside the helmet or lights, adding a total of 2 inches to your original measurement will help give enough room for all that extra equipment you wish to place in your helmet."
Since I'm doing a helmet I measured the height and width of my head, added the extra space, and converted to millimeters. Now Pepakura locks the scale of your project, so you really only need one measurement, but it's good to check the new measurements in the program against the ones you've taken, to make sure it didn't make it too small or large in one dimension, find a good middle ground.
To scale, go to the 2D view menu -> Change Scale -> Scale Factor... and put in your number. Also in the 2D menu, select the Show Edge ID option so it is checked. This will put numbers by your tabs that makes it much easier to line up matching edges later. Keep in mind once you rescale you may have to move your parts around to fit them completely on the pages to print. Also check the "Check Overlapping Parts" option and look for any red highlighted objects, this means they are overlapping and need to be moved.
I'm building the Manifold Seeker by Remraf, found on his thread here.
One other thing to do is give your model and it's 2D view a going over and make sure things look right before printing everything out. It was only after I had put this part together I found out things didn't quite add up.
For some reason Pepakura is unfolding this part wrong and I can't seem to figure out why. It's correct in the 3D model at 12.15 mm, but translates incorrectly to 17.641mm in 2D. Time for some creativity! So I 'disassembled' the already glued part, cleaned it up, flipped it over and used it as a template to get the cut right.
So if you've scaled correctly, looked over everything, arranged it to print correctly, and turned on Edge ID. Print that sucker out!
Let the cutting, folding, and gluing commence!
So first off some backstory, because reasons! (Bonus points if you get the reference) Ever since I saw Destiny and played the Alpha and Betas for Destiny and then saw the Manifold Seeker set for Destiny I knew I wanted to make a set of armor based on My Little Pony, I mean Destiny.
Ok, actual information time. I would HIGHLY recommend reading through a lot of the threads on this forum and doing some general research into what and how you want to make what you want to make. I probably spent two or three weeks of just researching the different methods and materials used. Also keep in mind your price point, because things can add up quick. Now obviously if you're here you've probably decided to go with Pepakura like I have (for now, seriously looking into a 3D printer, but I'll get into that later). Obviously we need to start with some paper, so after doing some research into cardstock I found that there are various types of card/index/bond/cover stock. The best way to measure them is in grams per sq meter, otherwise you may see 50lb cardstock and 50lb indexstock and think they're the same thing.
I chose this:
Neenah Exact Index, 110 lb, 199 gsm, 8.5 x 11 Inches, 250 Sheets - the weight I wanted and seemed to be most recommended, so far working great.
Other materials I needed:
Premiere 9411 Disposable Scalpels with #11 - I don't remember who recommended these (I think on one of the tutorial threads) but they are perfect! Super sharp and cheaper than xacto knives. Blade #11 is the most like an xacto blade with a fine tip.
Professional Self-Healing Cutting Mat Size: 18" W x 24" D - Something to protect the furniture.
Aleene's Quick Dry Tacky Glue 8oz - I know there's a lot of debate on this, but I decided against hot glue because hot things in small spaces and I do not work well together, and I really hate those stringy bits. This stuff gets tacky in a few seconds and it's got great hold, but you still have a few moments to position everything correctly. But once it's there it's there for good, you can see the results on a piece I messed up below.
A ruler - I had a metal engineers triangular ruler around and it works well, I can hold down firmly on the top while cutting and scoring.
Tweezers - good for folding small parts and holding them in place while gluing. Also using a collar stay I had lying around to spread the glue, just put a drop on the tab, spread it out, and stick.
Scoring - I also had this thing (with the red handle) lying around from my computer repair days, I picked it up at Radio Shack. I've been using the pointy end to score along the fold lines. Gives me nice crisp folds. The other end is more of a blade, and is great for pressing down on tabs when gluing and pushing into creases. You could also pick up one of these bone folders to do the same thing, I almost did, but wanted to try what I had on hand first. EK tools Bone Folder
Ive been using it by dragging it upside down along the fold, not point side down. I think that would rip it too much, instead of just compressing the fold line.
This:
Not This:
That's most everything you need to get started with the printing/cutting/folding/gluing parts.
I also picked up some things for the next part, hardening. I plan on using epoxy resin, but I'll get into that more when I get to it.
3M Tekk Paint Project Respirator, Medium - So I couldn't find much of ANYTHING on sizing respirators so I went with medium. The 3M Tekk came with Organic Vapor cartridges, perfect.
Blue Nitrile Gloves - Cheap, disposable, protective.
Uvex S3970D Stealth OTG Safety Goggles - Safety first, and these fit over my glasses (OTG)
So for now I've set up a workstation on an IKEA desk I have:
Gamma radiation! Does this mean I become the Hulk if I nick myself?
This is the piece I messed up I mentioned earlier. I glued the tabs over the matching numbers instead of under. Helps to go over the instructions again, especially your first time! You can see the paper was ripping before the glue would give out.
So that's pretty much it so far, once I get more pieces cut out and more pictures taken I'll add more!
For anyone still interested I mentioned I was looking into 3D printers, currently I am deciding between the Ultimaker 2 or TAZ 4, if I decide to get one. Not only would it make it super easy to print props, but there's plenty of useful stuff to print too, I hope. So if anyone has any experience and/or recommendations let me know!
Inspiration!:
http://www.therpf.com/f24/3d-printed...ia-suit-186414
http://www.reddit.com/r/DestinyTheGa...and_raise_you/
http://www.3ders.org/articles/201410...ion-rifle.html
Update:
So like I said, scaling. Very important! You don't want to spend hours upon hours printing, cutting, and gluing something together just to find out it doesn't fit! There are a few threads on the site about how to scale your Pepakura armor to fit, so go check them out!
Also check out this tutorial by HaloGoddess!
"Once you have this measurement, it's good to add AT LEAST 1 extra inch to leave room for padding. Also because when you fiberglass the inside, this also takes up space. If you plan on installing mini fans for better air circulation inside the helmet or lights, adding a total of 2 inches to your original measurement will help give enough room for all that extra equipment you wish to place in your helmet."
Since I'm doing a helmet I measured the height and width of my head, added the extra space, and converted to millimeters. Now Pepakura locks the scale of your project, so you really only need one measurement, but it's good to check the new measurements in the program against the ones you've taken, to make sure it didn't make it too small or large in one dimension, find a good middle ground.
To scale, go to the 2D view menu -> Change Scale -> Scale Factor... and put in your number. Also in the 2D menu, select the Show Edge ID option so it is checked. This will put numbers by your tabs that makes it much easier to line up matching edges later. Keep in mind once you rescale you may have to move your parts around to fit them completely on the pages to print. Also check the "Check Overlapping Parts" option and look for any red highlighted objects, this means they are overlapping and need to be moved.
I'm building the Manifold Seeker by Remraf, found on his thread here.
One other thing to do is give your model and it's 2D view a going over and make sure things look right before printing everything out. It was only after I had put this part together I found out things didn't quite add up.
For some reason Pepakura is unfolding this part wrong and I can't seem to figure out why. It's correct in the 3D model at 12.15 mm, but translates incorrectly to 17.641mm in 2D. Time for some creativity! So I 'disassembled' the already glued part, cleaned it up, flipped it over and used it as a template to get the cut right.
So if you've scaled correctly, looked over everything, arranged it to print correctly, and turned on Edge ID. Print that sucker out!
Let the cutting, folding, and gluing commence!
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