Anakin Starkiller FX Master Thread
This has been long awaited. Below is how I have aged, weathered, and stenciled my Starkiller FX V2.
A super special shout out to Dan (Anakin Starkiller) Roy (wannawanga.com) Trent (Trooper trent) Scott (Scottjua) and everyone else included in making this project come together. With out you all this wouldn't have been able to come out the way it has, I thank you all!
INDEX
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Physical Damage
Chemical Age
Stenciling part 1
Stenciling part 2
ITS HERE!
Painting
work in progress
Weathering
coming real soon
VIDEO TUTORIAL SERIES!!
click below to be brought to the video section
Video Tutorials here
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Physical Damage
Chemical Age
Stenciling part 1
Stenciling part 2
ITS HERE!
Painting
work in progress
Weathering
coming real soon
VIDEO TUTORIAL SERIES!!
click below to be brought to the video section
Video Tutorials here
________________________________
So, I am using a chemical called A14. which is a birchwood casey product. And from what the guy from sculpt nouveau told me, this is NOT aluminum black that we have commonly used before. his best explanation was this a14 is a professional grade, were the Aluminum black is more of a "commercial" or do it at home product. I can attest this works much better then Aluminum black, IF your follow the instructions.
You will need the following
SAFETY FIRST!!!
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-Rubber Gloves
-Eye protection (i like goggles for this)
-Mask
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Aging material
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-Metal cleaner
-Sculpt Nouveau A14 (aging chemical)
-Steel wool 0000
-Scotch brite pads
-Torch
_______________________________
The Process
_______________________________
-Rubber Gloves
-Eye protection (i like goggles for this)
-Mask
_______________________________
Aging material
_______________________________
-Metal cleaner
-Sculpt Nouveau A14 (aging chemical)
-Steel wool 0000
-Scotch brite pads
-Torch
_______________________________
The Process
So here we go, first I get all the physical damage out of the way. This includes damage marks to the pommel, and denting the emitter. I used the celebration 7 photo of the pommel for the damage reference. and the Pop culture video as reference for the 5 famous emitter dents.
I then mark the pommel with a sharpie, and use multiple sharp random tools to simulate the same dents. old screw driver, 12p spike nail, a scrap metal hinge, and a old cleaver.
I bang it all up, then sand it with some 220,300, then 400 paper, and finish with steel wool 0000. the photo below is not with the wool finish but during the sand paper process
Next came denting of the emitter. this took me a little while, and a few trials to come out with the end result. i first made a jig out of a 2x4 and threaded rod to hold it in place. but the 2x4 was too soft and the emitter would sink into the wood... i then went to the tractor supply store in town and got some washers. believe it or not but all these washers cost me only 1 dollar total. i thought the chick range it up wrong and she went through it all over again and said its right. so thats a plus!
You can also see the emitter in the back ground, marked with where to hit the dents. I used this photo here to locate the dents
I stacked the washers so the emitter is protected, i dont want to smash the neck, the metal is so thin i could see that being a disaster... this encapsulates the emitter inside the washers, and now can be put in a vice. IF i had soft jaws for the vice i wouldn't have had to come up with this contraption... if i had soft jaws that would have worked fine i think
I then lock this in the vise, and get out the big hammer.
So now in fear of the aluminum cracking when it bends (i have a tendency of doing that when bending aluminum) i gave it some heat.
And it worked out damn good
I used a big rubber hammer, but i put the end of the wooden handle on the emitter, then used a 3lb sledge hammer and hit the top of the rubber hammer. the hard wooden handle makes the dents with out damaging the aluminum.
Another thing I did, which isn't physical damage, but figured i'd share this here because its time to do this step now. but for some strange reason the booster sections machine marks were more prominent then the rest of the parts which were really smooth. So i threw the booster on the lathe and sanded it with 220, 300 then 400. then ran 0000 all over the booster and i think it came out great. i left the clamp section alone to compare the different in machining when it came time to carbonite dip it
now looking at the pictures you can actually see the difference
as Scrappy Coco would say "silky smooth..."
I also added 2 grub screws in the clamp section, this locks the rings to the booster. when doing this just be sure to locate the screws so they are not exposed in the areas of the clamp...
we put my buddies romans clamp on with roys lever, and i had to get it incredibly tight, so tight i wasn't comfortable closing the lever in fear of snapping it. and the rings were still lose, so i threw 2 grub screws in his as well.
not the end of the world. we dont plan on FXing these..and this is easily reversible
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