Hey, did you use a mechanical pencil for that miserable job? I'm trying to figure out if I can get away with a .5mm or if I should try and source a .2mm pencil, and I'm loving the look of what you did there.
You need to trim down the inner sides of the trench into then places where you might pinch the FO. Its a critical step. If not you will ruin a lot of the fiber work.
I removed the entire wall on the upper hull half. No "pinchies"....
I know we discussed (in Robiwon's thread) the feasibility of internal lighting with holes but, without FO. But how well do you suppose somthign like this may work, considering how small the bulbs are, and how thin the wire is?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LY8NLN...UTF8&colid=7273ZMT3756Y&coliid=I2XSLTZXAU58FF
The effect obtained with FO is much better, cleaner and balanced throughout the whole model. The approach you mentioned can give a "similar" effect but not as good as with FO. With some patience FO are quite doable. This was my first FO project and I must say I am proud how it turned out.
I plan on doing mine this way. I purchased adhesive back led lighting strips for the larger areas and did a test . Looks quite nice.I know I'm showing up late to this thread, just re-reading as I prepare to star my SD in a few months. As far as lighting without FO, I used to do this like 25 years ago...styrene sheet cut to whatever you need and back then I used severely shortened Christmas light strands in the model. yes they needed not to touch any surface because of heat (melting), but I built about 3 NC1701-D's about a foot or so long. I think I drilled out most of the available window holes, attached the sheet to the inside and fixed the bulbs in the best position for even lighting. The sheet picks up the light exceptionally well and flows through it pretty evenly. This method does work rather well and you don't have the mess of a spaghetti of fiber optics everywhere. I've been using FO on my MPC Falcon builds, but for the SD, I'm thinking of at least a partial of both lighting methods. use the sheet where it'll work the best and easiest like in the main hull, and then FO in the more difficult places like the tower and the belly docking bay.
Just thought I'd pass that along, and I apologize if someone else has already covered this.
I used blue LEDS but they were not of the flickering kind. I agree that is a great time for model enthusiasts!
The final color was Tamiya Insignia White. The pencil I used was cheap artist one I had laying around. Was softer than a regular one and made the job much easier. Its a matter of keeping it sharp and let the panel line control the pencil. Thanks!
I just read the entire thread and my question was: "How did I miss this wonderful build?":eek Pro-Job all the way:cool