Working TOS Phaser Shell Moulds

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genZOD

Well-Known Member
Hello All. I'm working on the P2 shell right now. I'm trying to get the basic shape right--so that I can 3D print it. After that, I'll do a bunch of sanding/filler to get all of the rounded off corners & bevels right. Then I'll make moulds for my fiberglass shell.

Anyway, to my eye the back half of my phaser is WAY to wide. I've matched the blueprints that I found online, but it looks off to me. To be fair, I've only ever seen the Diamond Select version in person.

TBH, I thought that I'd find better plans online. Anyway, help is always appreciated.

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Gregatron

Sr Member
Looking good. The Diamond Select isn't that far off, really.

The main tweaks I'd recommend are giving the P1 cradle ribs a rounder, more organic shape, as well as rounding off the other corners and edges.

I'm sure there are more detailed and accurate blueprints out there, but I haven't come across them, lately.
 

genZOD

Well-Known Member
Looking good. The Diamond Select isn't that far off, really.

The main tweaks I'd recommend are giving the P1 cradle ribs a rounder, more organic shape, as well as rounding off the other corners and edges.

I'm sure there are more detailed and accurate blueprints out there, but I haven't come across them, lately.
Thanks, my plan is to hand shape the 3D print. Some of the really organic bevels & curves lend themselves to that approach, I think. Also, I need to work within the limits of my 3D printer.

And skill…
 

smagda64

New Member
When I was teaching myself Autodesk Fusion 360 I created the phaser (1 and 2) as one of my first 3d models. I collected a bunch of pics from the Internet but I found that the images from the Wand Company's phaser remote showed enough detail to help me make my model.
 

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genZOD

Well-Known Member
Looking good. The Diamond Select isn't that far off, really.

The main tweaks I'd recommend are giving the P1 cradle ribs a rounder, more organic shape, as well as rounding off the other corners and edges.

I'm sure there are more detailed and accurate blueprints out there, but I haven't come across them, lately.
The plans I attached are the paths that I made based on some bitmapped measured drawings that I found. They're pretty much 1:1 copies using spline curves. I had to do a little adjusting (<1mm) to get the two views to align properly. Still, I think the plans I found are off a bit. Especially the area around the rear "cooling fins". Anyway, Even with better plans, I still want to do some hand shaping. I think that'll get me closer to the sculptural feel of the originals--if that makes any sense.

...and I just like doing that sort of thing.
 

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genZOD

Well-Known Member
I've made changes to my phaser 2 shell. I got much better plans -- so this should be much closer to the real prop. Next, I'll 3D print the model to make moulds for the final fiberglass shells. The corners on my 3D model are very sharp. I'm going to hand bevel all the edges on the 3d print. I think it will give the final product a more period accurate appearance than the mathematically perfect & consistent/symmetrical bevels from CAD.
 

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genZOD

Well-Known Member
Are you planning on putting all the internal bits in there too?
This started when I built a phaser with a blue laser. I used a Diamond Select shell (with lots of modifications). I'd like to put the guts I built for that into a more accurate shell. I will try to keep all of the non-laser stuff accurate to the original props. Space will be an issue. I have most of the parts to make a brass handle. I can get the original twist plug to work, but I'll need to make modifications to get larger batteries to fit. Externally, my phaser will look as much like the "real thing" as possible. Internally, it will be similar--but with a laser stuffed into it. :)
 

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