WIP: Bandai 1/5000 Star Destroyer

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INVAR

Sr Member
I like the idea to pre-shade with the wash/filter you've done in this post. Sounds like you're going to paint with the shades mentioned above. Do you plan to do anything next after painting or do you think the pre-shade plus paint alone will achieve what you are after.

I have just completed the primer/base coat over the black shoe polish and water wash with Stynlrez White Primer, mixed with several drops of Stynlrez grey primer and thinned just a tad with Reducer so the thick primer would shoot through the airbrush with a bit more transparency so the panel lines still come through.

Now I will proceed to mask areas for hull plating that I will paint with a darker shade of grey acrylic paint and will go back in with some grey wash after that to enhance a few details that I think need to 'pop' just a bit more after the base coat/primer. Since the finish thus far is a matte finish almost flat - I am toying with masking some additional smaller hull plates and shooting some Future onto the hull so I get some gloss aztec effects depending on how the light hits it.

I was debating whether or not to add some additional mechanical pencil lines ala the 8 footer, which would add an illusion of a grayer hull, but at the 1/5000 scale - I think not. You would not see such fine lines that far out from the actual ship.
 

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Inquisitor Peregrinus

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I have a couple of unbuilt Finemolds TIE fighter & TIE/i, wonder if they'll be worth anything lol.
After seeing the better interior and more accurate scale of the Bandai kit, I repurposed the wings and radiator panels of my FM Interceptor (drastically reworked) to be the winglets on my Royal Guard Interceptor. And the viewport is ending up on my TIE Phantom build.
 

nkg

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
The Bandai 1:5000 Star Destroyer looks pretty good. Only real thing I noticed is that the engine bells don't have that gap between the bell and the outer ring.

Anyone interested in something like this? The resolution of the 3D print is less than Bandai's injection moulding, but the payoff is the thin gap between the ring and the bell.
 

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goldocrack69

New Member
since I received my own SD, I spent the two last weeks looking at it and admiring how much Bandai has increased their modelisation abilities in order to give justice to this incredible OT design.
Then I started to put the main parts together to check if my fears was founded or not. indeed, my upper hull was quite warped and reading this thread carefully, I hoped that my star SD would not have this ridiculous smile we 've seen on some builds.
Helas, I got the smile and in addition, the left end side of the upper hull is falling suddenly !
I put the 2 views together to show how much deformation it has.
What the hell to have such an amount of detail and missing the bulleye with such an important aspect of this jewel !
First time that bandai desappointed me! I should have all their model and it was apleasure each time to build.

Another point that ennoy me are those massive panel lines. putting together, the kit has a scale issue: two much micro tiny details and big panel lines. looking at it it's kind of weird.
something that makes me feel that the Zvezda kit is somehow right at his scale, even missing some bits here and there...

Will carrefully follow your builds to see how you all great modelers are going to overcome this warping issue
bandai star-destroyer-warpage.jpg
 

Dmitriy311

New Member
hi there! today brought together its set of. I can say one thing-the regular lighting scheme is not convenient. every time to remove the main superstructure and its interior to turn on-off lighting is a bad decision. tangled wires, latches do not always fall into place, the gap between the body and the superstructure... I redo so as to not have to disassemble the model for turning on a light. very well received by those who ordered the kit without lighting.
 

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Madhatter

Well-Known Member
I saw a build of this on another forum and from what I saw, there was a massive amount of light leakage around the base of the superstructure and light bleed through from the body. I'm guessing it wasn't built correctly (I'm hoping) but it really turned me off buying one
 

edge10

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I saw a build of this on another forum and from what I saw, there was a massive amount of light leakage around the base of the superstructure and light bleed through from the body. I'm guessing it wasn't built correctly (I'm hoping) but it really turned me off buying one

If you slap it together, you get what you deserve or no pain, no gain. ;)
 

Timmythekid

Sr Member
since I received my own SD, I spent the two last weeks looking at it and admiring how much Bandai has increased their modelisation abilities in order to give justice to this incredible OT design.
Then I started to put the main parts together to check if my fears was founded or not. indeed, my upper hull was quite warped and reading this thread carefully, I hoped that my star SD would not have this ridiculous smile we 've seen on some builds.
Helas, I got the smile and in addition, the left end side of the upper hull is falling suddenly !
I put the 2 views together to show how much deformation it has.
What the hell to have such an amount of detail and missing the bulleye with such an important aspect of this jewel !
First time that bandai desappointed me! I should have all their model and it was apleasure each time to build.

Another point that ennoy me are those massive panel lines. putting together, the kit has a scale issue: two much micro tiny details and big panel lines. looking at it it's kind of weird.
something that makes me feel that the Zvezda kit is somehow right at his scale, even missing some bits here and there...

Will carrefully follow your builds to see how you all great modelers are going to overcome this warping issue
View attachment 1061409
Have only test-fit my hull, but it seems that the front peg, right in the prow, is what is pulling the whole thing out of alignment. Having some thought of cutting the peg off and gluing there instead...
 

INVAR

Sr Member
Have only test-fit my hull, but it seems that the front peg, right in the prow, is what is pulling the whole thing out of alignment. Having some thought of cutting the peg off and gluing there instead...

I think someone else also mentioned that as a solution to explore.

I have not begun test fitting anything because I am painting the kit before assembly, but I already noticed on the upper hull piece that I am masking off hull plates for airbrushing - that the port side rear corner is bowed upwards and not straight or level with the rest of the lateral line of the port side. I do not know if that will self-correct when assembled with the bottom hull and trench pieces in place or not. It's 2" from that rear port peg so I am assuming it may not - and that upward curvature may be an issue I will have to tackle once I assemble the kit. Likely cementing the upper hull to the port trench walls may fix that issue as far as support goes.

I'm also watching several builds on Youtube - and light bleed seems to be a big issue in the seams and joins. I decided I will need to airbrush the inside with black to kill the seepage of hot spots through the plastic because I used such a thin coat of primer/base color so the pre-shaded panel lines create that illusion of graphite pencil lines I wanted. I am thinking that I will turn the inside top wedding cake section upside down when assembled and use Tulip 3D black in the seams and joins to act as a light barrier instead of attempting styrene strips to create a 'lid' to block the LED lights bleeding through.
 
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Dmitriy311

New Member
I think someone else also mentioned that as a solution to explore.

I have not begun test fitting anything because I am painting the kit before assembly, but I already noticed on the upper hull piece that I am masking off hull plates for airbrushing - that the port side rear corner is bowed upwards and not straight or level with the rest of the lateral line of the port side. I do not know if that will self-correct when assembled with the bottom hull and trench pieces in place or not. It's 2" from that rear port peg so I am assuming it may not - and that upward curvature may be an issue I will have to tackle once I assemble the kit. Likely cementing the upper hull to the port trench walls may fix that issue as far as support goes.

I'm also watching several builds on Youtube - and light bleed seems to be a big issue in the seams and joins. I decided I will need to airbrush the inside with black to kill the seepage of hot spots through the plastic because I used such a thin coat of primer/base color so the pre-shaded panel lines create that illusion of graphite pencil lines I wanted. I am thinking that I will turn the inside top wedding cake section upside down when assembled and use Tulip 3D black in the seams and joins to act as a light barrier instead of attempting styrene strips to create a 'lid' to block the LED lights bleeding through.

162 / 10000
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I collected using glue. side elements of the belt glued to the bottom of the body. I've just attached a ruler-the bow-to-stern arc is present. I'm afraid this is an unpleasant feature of this model.
 
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r0ver

Well-Known Member
It really is unfortunate that so many seem to be having issues with warping. I was hoping that it may be that it’s not until it’s fully put together that everything self aligns and falls into place, but going by the above, it doesn’t seem like that’s the case.

I’ll have mine in hand this week so will see if it has the issue, and if so how bad.
 

Madhatter

Well-Known Member
If you slap it together, you get what you deserve or no pain, no gain. ;)
LOL, well, good thing it's not my build - I don't think I could personally be accused of just slapping something together without some kind of pain :lol::lol:
I'm starting to form the opinion it's more the kit after reading the above comments by those making it. However, I've been wrong before
 

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edge10

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
LOL, well, good thing it's not my build - I don't think I could personally be accused of just slapping something together without some kind of pain :lol::lol:
I'm starting to form the opinion it's more the kit after reading the above comments by those making it. However, I've been wrong before

It's all good, every kit has it's challenges. I am currently dealing with seams and light leaks on my 1/350 K'tinga, so I feel their pain. :D
 

INVAR

Sr Member
While working on cutting masks for airbrushing hull plating - decided to try Omnius' idea of putting glue that dries clear into the holes from the rear of the superstructure, bridge tower and trench pieces and filling them with paint marker red to create lighting effects without the use of fiber.

Did some trial and error by using some craft glue that I have been using to secure the fiber on the Zvezda. Dries crystal clear and worked well in terms of filling the windows and accepting translucent red pigment to create 'red windows' when backlit. The glue dried super clear and on windows without red pigment - you get hot spots of the LED twinkling through as your eye moves across the model.

So then I was looking for a glue that might dry off-white and act as a semi-diffuser of sorts and cut down on the hot spots and also still accept red pigment to shine through some of the holes. Did a few trial and errors with several glues and finally settled on: "ELMER'S WHITE GLUE". Yup. Plain old Elmer's white school glue. Overfill the holes and turn the piece over so the glue can seep down into the holes from behind and the glue dries into a cloudy clear off-white that when shining an LED through - gives great light BUT eliminates hots spots altogether. However, I think I will have to go with an enamel red paint to fill the holes rather than a permanent red paint marker to get the red to shine through sufficiently.

Perhaps some pics later.
 

Analyzer

Sr Member
Those "hot spots" are what had me worried about not running fibers. I had seen quite a few videos that pan along it, and those hotspots really detract from the effect making it look literally like a hollow model with some LEDs inside

Elmer's glue might be the ticket rescuing me from running all those fibers
 

Timmythekid

Sr Member
While working on cutting masks for airbrushing hull plating - decided to try Omnius' idea of putting glue that dries clear into the holes from the rear of the superstructure, bridge tower and trench pieces and filling them with paint marker red to create lighting effects without the use of fiber.

Did some trial and error by using some craft glue that I have been using to secure the fiber on the Zvezda. Dries crystal clear and worked well in terms of filling the windows and accepting translucent red pigment to create 'red windows' when backlit. The glue dried super clear and on windows without red pigment - you get hot spots of the LED twinkling through as your eye moves across the model.

So then I was looking for a glue that might dry off-white and act as a semi-diffuser of sorts and cut down on the hot spots and also still accept red pigment to shine through some of the holes. Did a few trial and errors with several glues and finally settled on: "ELMER'S WHITE GLUE". Yup. Plain old Elmer's white school glue. Overfill the holes and turn the piece over so the glue can seep down into the holes from behind and the glue dries into a cloudy clear off-white that when shining an LED through - gives great light BUT eliminates hots spots altogether. However, I think I will have to go with an enamel red paint to fill the holes rather than a permanent red paint marker to get the red to shine through sufficiently.

Perhaps some pics later.
Interesting. So did you just slop a coat of glue over the whole of the inside, or pick out each window? It sounds like the former is a totally workable solution, and if so hooray for sloppy!
 

INVAR

Sr Member
Those "hot spots" are what had me worried about not running fibers. I had seen quite a few videos that pan along it, and those hotspots really detract from the effect making it look literally like a hollow model with some LEDs inside

Elmer's glue might be the ticket rescuing me from running all those fibers

Works for me. No hot spots.

Glue Windows.jpeg

Interesting. So did you just slop a coat of glue over the whole of the inside, or pick out each window? It sounds like the former is a totally workable solution, and if so hooray for sloppy!

Sloppy. I do not have a precision applicator for the Elmers, so I just globbed it into the whole inside structure, making sure to push down and squeeze into where the window holes are to 'fill' and left it turned over so it would shrink and dry while filling the holes.

All I can suggest is do a test on one of the superstructure pieces and see if it fulfills what you envision for your model. Elmer's is somewhat pliable when dry so if you do not like the effect it achieves you can just pry up an edge and pull the glue off the model with a pair of tweezers very cleanly.

IMG_3171.jpeg

I suppose if you wanted to take the tedious time of filling only each hole individually - one could invest in an applicator and spend the time injecting the glue into each hole.... but why waste the time? I have hours of time to spend cutting frisket mask for airbrushing hundreds of hull plating on the surface.
 

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